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1991: Can anyone tell me the part number for the left and right heater lines from the block? And where to get them? I feel like retard, but I cannot locate the part numbers, and every site I check (rosenthal, etc) all have different numbers and different imagery.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:06
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Atomizer posted:So true. Although I used to do it exactly how you describe, I think my 4-5 shift has been getting worse. Maybe I'm just paying less attention, maybe this Winter is really eating away at me (hopefully less than a month left until the top comes off and the wheels get swapped!), or maybe I really need to rebuild the shifter. First of all I'll open it up and see if there's any transmission fluid in the turret (I doubt it.) I have been looking through some miata.net threads on the shifter rebuild but it's confusing to begin with. Is there actually a kit somewhere or do I have to order parts individually? MX5parts.co.uk has a kit for £40, although that won't be much help to you.. this is what you need: 1 x Genuine Mazda Upper Shift Boot 1 x Genuine Mazda Lower Shift Boot 1 x Genuine Mazda Gearlever Nylon Cup all parts are the same up to 2005, apparently. This is the guide I looked at last time when I was planning to do mine - its pretty comprehensive: http://www.camsmx5.com/Resources/techshift/techshift.html edit: ha, still got the part numbers for the boots: lower (small one): M513-17-480A upper (big one): NA01-64-481B pim01 fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:13
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While we're on the subject, is there any trick to removing the nardi shift knob? The leather on mine is split and I want to either replace it or find a way to fix it, but whenever I try to unscrew it, the whole lever starts to twist/flex and I'm afraid something might get messed up. Consequent question, the stitching has come out of the leather across the top of the front, and the top piece has shrunk/un-stretched so now there's a gap in the leather where you can see the plastic, there's also a flap of leather that catches my fingertips when I let go of the shifter. Anyone have a suggestion on how to take care of this? Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:25
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Tactical Bonnet posted:While we're on the subject, is there any trick to removing the nardi shift knob? The leather on mine is split and I want to either replace it or find a way to fix it, but whenever I try to unscrew it, the whole lever starts to twist/flex and I'm afraid something might get messed up.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:32
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Consequent question, the stitching has come out of the leather across the top of the front, and the top piece has shrunk/un-stretched so now there's a gap in the leather where you can see the plastic, there's also a flap of leather that catches my fingertips when I let go of the shifter. Anyone have a suggestion on how to take care of this? Mine has done the same thing, and despite the stitching coming undone, as long as I don't pick at it, the leather doesn't seem to be going anywhere. I mean, it's probably something I should eventually address, but so far it hasn't started falling apart or anything. I bought it ~3 years ago that way, so who knows how long it's been that way, but it hasn't been getting any worse. I just like the feel of the leather knob as opposed to plastic or metal. If I could find a good leather replacement I would probably replace it, but I haven't had much luck. I found one Nardi-branded knob, but it's a lot taller than the one that I've got and it's expensive as hell. I like the short little stubby shifter. Any recommendations, anyone? E: I guess you can order the black leather Nardi knob from a Mazda dealer, but the price is around $120 or so. That's hard to swallow for what is essentially a cosmetic fix. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:48
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Tai-Pan posted:1991: Can anyone tell me the part number for the left and right heater lines from the block? And where to get them? http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com/miatacooling.html Heater Hose* NA75-61-211 1 Right side, through firewall Heater Hose* N007-61-212 1 Left side, through firewall
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Mar 5, 2010 21:44
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Guinness posted:I just like the feel of the leather knob as opposed to plastic or metal. Mine isn't really going anywhere, but the top bit sticks up just a bit and it catches the tips of my fingers when I let go of the shifter. I'm wondering if there's some sort of adhesive that would stick leather to plastic.
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Mar 6, 2010 07:34
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Just installed my Bosch H4 lenses and holy poo poo are they an improvement. I knew my sealed beams weren't great, but now I see just how awful they really were.
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Mar 6, 2010 07:54
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Hog Obituary posted:Just installed my Bosch H4 lenses and holy poo poo are they an improvement. I knew my sealed beams weren't great, but now I see just how awful they really were. I want miiiiiiiiiine. I ordered them on the 15th and still havent gotten the email telling me they were shipped. When did you order yours?
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Mar 6, 2010 08:24
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I ordered mine a day or two before Feb. 11 I think. The first order confirmation email I have is dated the 11th.
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Mar 6, 2010 08:33
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Schwack posted:I want miiiiiiiiiine. I ordered them on the 15th and still havent gotten the email telling me they were shipped. When did you order yours? The told me the other day that they had their third pallet of them, with the fourth and fifth pallets on the way, so yours(and mine) should be here any day now. I can't wait to be able to see where I'm going at night! Especially now that it's like 60F during the day and a breezy 50 in the evenings/nights. My air conditioner got turned on today for the first time in months. 
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Mar 6, 2010 09:50
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I changed the oil on my NC today and holy poo poo. It was like a portal to the oil dimension was opened. Oil everywhere! First, I couldn't find the oil filter till in literally looked everywhere; there are no guides on the internet. It was behind some lovely plastic cover that I broke off by accident. Then I had thought I drained all the oil from the engine, but nooooo, a ton came out when I removed the filter. I was expecting a bit, but not this much. I guess next time I will have to put a tupperware container or similar underneath the oil filter and let it drip onto that. Anyone else have similar experience changing the oil on an NC?
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Mar 7, 2010 00:20
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pacheco posted:I changed the oil on my NC today and holy poo poo. It was like a portal to the oil dimension was opened. Oil everywhere! Does anyone know if it's possible to change the oil on an NC with Sportline springs (2" drop) using Rhino ramps? I'm going to find out when the weather gets warmer.
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Mar 7, 2010 00:26
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Dominoes posted:It's a pain in the nuts. Requires small Japanese hands? Remove plate covering oil filter area with 5 12mm bolts. Use 17mm socket on oil drain. Position drain container to the side of the hole until the pressure drops down a bit. No idea on how to get the filter off without oil getting everywhere. Have tried plastic bags, no good. Consider yourself lucky being able to get the filter off. I use a wrench-like tool that's shaped like a sickle. Most oil filter remover tools won't fit. Only thing I had to remove/break off was a tiny cover thing that is in the front driver's side wheel well. It's attached with some clamps and one screw (not bolt), and it broke off on mine. However, once I did that, I could use both hands to get filter off. It did have gallons of oil left in it though.
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Mar 7, 2010 03:34
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Anyone ever have front fender rust? There are only two drains behind the driver right? And they are NOT where you put the jack right? I still can't find the front ones. Any help?
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Mar 9, 2010 03:32
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My shift-knob and steering wheel are suddenly disintegrating in my hands. Last night when I left the store and came home all was well. Today when I got in the car the shift knob was sticky and leaving black residue on my hands. The same for the top of the steering wheel. Any ideas what could cause this? The residue almost seems like it's bits of the leather, and whatever it is has loosened the shiny part of my steering wheel, so if I rub it the black shiny bit starts to peel off in my hands. Any idea what to do about it? I've tried fast-orange hand cleaner and some cheap leather cleaner I had on hand, but all it did was turn my rags black and sticky, some dish soap seemed to do a little better, about half of how bad it was. I'd really like to be able to drive my car without getting covered in sticky garbage. Any ideas?
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Mar 9, 2010 04:00
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Tactical Bonnet posted:My shift-knob and steering wheel are suddenly disintegrating in my hands. Last night when I left the store and came home all was well. Today when I got in the car the shift knob was sticky and leaving black residue on my hands. The same for the top of the steering wheel. Old age and exposure to sun/chemicals of your hands/etc. I had the same thing happen to my S4, only real cure it to redo the leather or get a new wheel.
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Mar 9, 2010 04:05
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But to go from just fine to disgusting and sticky in a single rainy night?
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Mar 9, 2010 04:06
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That same thing happened to a Camaro steering wheel my dad put in my truck around 1990. It kept oozing poo poo whenever it got hot, until about 2001, even after he stitched a leather cover onto it. Ruined at least one pair of jeans. Buy a new wheel.
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Mar 9, 2010 04:47
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But I drove this car all last summer with no trouble. It hasn't broken 70F in months! Urgg. I wonder what the price is for a new OE wheel? stealth edit: at least I can get a nardi shift knob for $80 from ebay. I still can't get the old one off though. I wonder if I could put a pipe wrench on the shift lever and some channel locks on the knob and break it loose? Tactical Bonnet fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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Mar 9, 2010 04:55
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Ziploc posted:Anyone ever have front fender rust? No rust, because I keep my drains clear  The front ones look just like the rear ones, only they're in the front. And yes, they ARE right around where the jack goes. Look at the lip along the bottom of the body. The front drains are just a couple inches from where the lip starts in the front. If yours are pinched together, they may look a lot like the rest of the lip. Here's the TSB that explains the problem with them: http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s034_94.html
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Mar 9, 2010 05:57
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There is a little rubber piece at the bottom of the knob holding on a lock nut. You need to loosen that.
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Mar 9, 2010 05:57
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poo poo I just realized that they aren't drains for the softtop. But rather for water that enters the bottom sil area my other means.
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Mar 9, 2010 06:02
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Proof that NCs can look good.. even from the front. Click here for the full 1024x680 image.
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Mar 10, 2010 03:38
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destructo posted:Proof that NCs can look good.. even from the front. You know, as much as I hated how the NC looked when it first came out, it has really really grown on me, to the extent where I would love to own one. That is an especially good looking one.
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Mar 10, 2010 03:40
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Hopefully, this is a really quick question: Which oil is more appropriate to use to refill the shift turret, Redline MTL or MT-90? Again, I live near Chicago, so we have cold winters and hot summers. I was able to find discussions like the following, which don't really convince me either way: http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-135156.html I guess either one will work, but was just curious as to what you guys think.
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Mar 10, 2010 05:34
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Atomizer posted:Hopefully, this is a really quick question: Which oil is more appropriate to use to refill the shift turret, Redline MTL or MT-90? Again, I live near Chicago, so we have cold winters and hot summers. Either-or really should be fine for the turret. The transmission is where a difference would really be noticed. I guess because the turret is less exposed to heat the MTL might be optimal but really I would just use whatever is available/cheapest.
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Mar 10, 2010 05:52
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Can I just pull the drive shaft out of the back of the transmission or would that result in me getting an oil shower?
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Mar 10, 2010 19:42
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Atomizer posted:Hopefully, this is a really quick question: Which oil is more appropriate to use to refill the shift turret, Redline MTL or MT-90? Again, I live near Chicago, so we have cold winters and hot summers. Doesn't matter. What is in your transmission does, but the turret itself won't break or wear. Having something in there will make shifting way more pleasant, and thicker is probably better than engine oil, but the shift turret isn't under high speed or stress or anything. Mine is ancient, horribly busted has nothing at all in the turret and the shifting feels pretty crappy. I intend to fix this over the weekend. Did you end up buying that kit that was linked here? How is it?
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Mar 10, 2010 20:19
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Anyone have good shock recommendations for an NA? It's the wife's car and won't see a track, but does need suspension that can smooth out the bumps on a commute from DC to Tysons Corner. Also, if anyone knows of a good suspension shop in the DC/NoVA/MD area please tell.
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Mar 10, 2010 20:31
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Dr JonboyG posted:Anyone have good shock recommendations for an NA? It's the wife's car and won't see a track, but does need suspension that can smooth out the bumps on a commute from DC to Tysons Corner. I DD (which includes cottage/camping trips), winter drive, and autocross my Miata. I've been very happy with my adjustable Tokico Illuminas. Look into new progressive bump stops from FatCatMotorsports as well to get more travel and a better ride.
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Mar 10, 2010 20:52
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Ziploc posted:I DD (which includes cottage/camping trips), winter drive, and autocross my Miata. I've been very happy with my adjustable Tokico Illuminas. Look into new progressive bump stops from FatCatMotorsports as well to get more travel and a better ride. Yes, go with either the Illuminas or AGXs. I use AGXs for my daily driver, but I got them on the cheap from some sketchball out of the back of a truck. I think the Illuminas are the slightly better shock. Also seconding the FCM bumpstops, I would look into their shock mounts as well and then call it a day. Mariana Horchata fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 21:06
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Weinertron posted:Doesn't matter. What is in your transmission does, but the turret itself won't break or wear. Having something in there will make shifting way more pleasant, and thicker is probably better than engine oil, but the shift turret isn't under high speed or stress or anything. I kind of figured that the turret oil really didn't make too much of a difference, as long as there's some there. I'm going to see if there's an open bottle around, since I really don't need a whole one just for the turret (it takes 90mL, I believe.) Now, the weather's getting better, and I'm going to dig into the shifter soon but I haven't opened it up so far or ordered anything. Another member listed only 3 components when I asked what I need, but the other threads I've been looking over seem to indicate there are more parts to it. I figure I really have to look in there and see what is worn and what isn't. I'm reading through these threads: http://forum.miata.net/vb/printthread.php?t=329664 http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=314641 http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=286566 http://www.miata.net/garage/shortshifter/index.html ...and am going to go through and make a list of the parts they mention. I also have some PDFs of the parts catalog for the car. Finally, I e-mailed the local Mazda dealer to specifically ask about a kit or the parts; I'll keep you updated. As for my shifter specifically, it's always been kind of notchy, however I think I like it like that, especially comparing it to my father's E46 shifter which is mushy as gently caress. Nevertheless, I wouldn't mind if it was a bit smoother. I've never opened it up to see what's worn, and if there's any oil left, but the car is about 13 years old and I don't know of any such work being done, so I just have to hope for the best and prepare for the worst. I'll keep you guys informed.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:25
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Cool, my groupbuy lights shipped today! Should be here on Monday. I can't wait! Maybe this will give me a chance to finally wash it.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:27
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The guy at the Mazda dealer's service department responded. There's no specific shifter rebuild kit, but he faxed over a diagram from the parts catalog illustrating all of the components so I can pick & choose individual parts. I can scan the page if you guys want to see it, and I also have scans of the parts catalog in PDF form if anyone needs that. I finally think I found the answer to my lug nut search. The dealer wanted over $10 per OE nut, which is way too much even if they were an exact match (I just got a quote from the aforementioned service department guy, without going in to look at the parts.) The Dorman 611141 is the closest thing I've found to the ones I have on my car. I made a trip to CarQuest and a few trips to AutoZone, but neither had a full set, and because the former wanted more for them I went back to AutoZone to try to order. The AutoZone employees were less than helpful (what a surprise) and couldn't order these for me, but couldn't tell me exactly why. At this point I decided to Google the part number and turned up this: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000CIXLNI/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=A139T64LTDCRO8&v=glance Success! The nuts come out to be about $2 each, shipped, which is less than I would've paid retail. I just have to decide if I want to order more than a full set, to have spares or a whole extra set while I can still get these.
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Mar 13, 2010 20:41
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Lower shift boot: Part No : M513-17-480A $17.56 (note: 93+) Upper shift boot: Part No : NA01-64-481B $16.54 I don't know about the bushing, but it's about 45 bucks shipped to your door after taxes from Mazdaspeed.
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Mar 13, 2010 21:21
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^^ replacing those two boots and the little nylon cup - and replacing the turret oil - really cleared up my shift-feel. Definitely worth the 45 bucks. My old boots were both badly torn and missing bits, and the oil was horrible and dark  .I have a question - I remember people talking about a knock-off version of the BBS wheels some time ago, but I can't find the post. I'd like to replace the wheels on my '91 UK BRG MX-5 with some that look like the current (original, limited edition) ones, but aren't scuffed to hell like mine (and don't cost  each).My current wheels look like these (but more scuffed):  edit: whoops, forgot to attach the image pim01 fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 22:55
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So I just got moved up to Anchorage and am considering bringing my Miata up here. Was looking to get someone elses thought on bringing it up here, the winter is pretty long and I don't know how well it'd do in the snow.
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Mar 15, 2010 03:07
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Very good in the snow with snow tires considering how light it is and how short the wheelbase is. An LSD helps as well.
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Mar 15, 2010 10:14
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The torsen LSD helps if there is traction for both wheels.
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Mar 15, 2010 10:46
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