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Does anybody have any trusted parts sites they use regularly? I'm trying to find the R&G engine covers for my bike (08 CBR600RR) and my usual shops don't seem to carry them 
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Mar 10, 2010 02:03
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lancemantis posted:Does anybody have any trusted parts sites they use regularly? I'm trying to find the R&G engine covers for my bike (08 CBR600RR) and my usual shops don't seem to carry them I almost always cross shop ebay for everything, just because there's the chance of finding it a lot cheaper there. R&G seems to be a bit of a euro company, I haven't seen a lot of their stuff up for sale in the states.
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Mar 10, 2010 03:28
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shipwrek posted:Wondering about tires. The PO of my bike did just about everything on the cheap. We need more info- brand of tire, model, and most important, are they the right size? Almost any cheap tire will work as long as the size is right, but some cheap owners put tires that are too small or otherwise inappropriate for the bike. Most folks might consider Kendas to be cheap tires but I've had good results from them on a couple of different bikes. The new cheap in-tire is Shinko, the buzz on them is fairly positive and the retreaded tires have gained some grudging acceptance.
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Mar 10, 2010 03:30
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Z3n posted:I almost always cross shop ebay for everything, just because there's the chance of finding it a lot cheaper there. R&G seems to be a bit of a euro company, I haven't seen a lot of their stuff up for sale in the states. Yeah, I used to have quite a bit of their stuff on my 650R and I liked it. Unfortunately I haven't had much luck locating stuff for my current bike. I was considering Woodcraft covers, but these seemed like maybe a less expensive/less hassle option So far I've found them at these two sites http://www.cyclesector.com http://www.shop.superbikestore.net/ I'm kind of wary of the second one especially since the site is pretty simple and there doesn't seem to be a physical store associated with it. It makes me miss being able to go to a local motorcycle shop and either pick up or have on order shortly most of the parts I could think of for my 650R
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Mar 10, 2010 03:52
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I've heard good things about cycle sector before, but haven't heard of the other place. But...eh, I'd order from where ever is cheapest and make sure I have a way of getting my money back if things don't work out. Hasn't let me wrong yet 
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Mar 10, 2010 04:15
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Gnomad posted:We need more info- brand of tire, model, and most important, are they the right size? Almost any cheap tire will work as long as the size is right, but some cheap owners put tires that are too small or otherwise inappropriate for the bike. Got this one spot on! They are Kendas and they are the right size front and back. The bike is pushing 70HP at the rear wheel though so maybe its not so much that they are cheap as that they are not really the best to maximize the bikes potential.
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Mar 10, 2010 07:16
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shipwrek posted:Got this one spot on! They are Kendas and they are the right size front and back. The bike is pushing 70HP at the rear wheel though so maybe its not so much that they are cheap as that they are not really the best to maximize the bikes potential. I run Kenda Challengers on a Honda Cm400, and used them on a BMW K75. They were decent tires and I had no particular complaints with them. Chances are the tires are good enough-but if they aren't in your mind, then you should change them to a brand you do trust. Confidence is a big part of riding.
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Mar 10, 2010 07:49
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This is probably going to sound really dumb, especially to the track guys, but what exactly is maintenance throttle? Twist of the Wrist says you should be rolling on the gas, but that isn't very exact. How fast do I roll on? Can I enter a turn at 20mph after a car turns out of my way and then blast out of it at 80, accelerating that much through it? Or once I'm leaned over can I not increase the throttle at all until I start to straighten out? I've been trying to understand my accident last year, where my VFR lowsided at a corner exit. My belief right now is I tried to gas it before I stood it up (not balancing lean and throttle). My attitude has changed from "motorcycles have infinite grip" to "how the hell can I tell how much they grip".
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Mar 10, 2010 13:38
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You're motorcycle has something like a 54/46 Front/Rear weight ratio. Using maintenance throttle to shift that balance as close to 50/50 as you can allows the highest possible cornering loads. How much throttle is going to depend on the bike, the corner, the line, and the rider, but it's on the order of an increase from 20->30mph, not 20->80.Gnaghi posted:Or once I'm leaned over can I not increase the throttle at all until I start to straighten out? Your tire has a finite amount of grip, you can use it all for braking, all for acceleration, all for cornering, or you can pick two. (just not the first two) So if you are using all available grip for cornering you can't accelerate or brake without causing a tire to slide. As you stand the bike up you can give it more and more throttle. Gnaghi posted:"how the hell can I tell how much they grip". In my quest to find the answer to this question I've crashed my track bike 20 something times.
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Mar 10, 2010 15:58
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Zool posted:Using maintenance throttle to shift that balance as close to 50/50 as you can I always aim to put more on the rear than the front on the SMC, up to about 40/60; recovering the back on this bike is almost a zero-effort affair. The only fall I've had was from loading the front up too much. Zool posted:You're motorcycle I are not!
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Mar 10, 2010 16:08
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GOD drat IT. My CBR stranded me on the highway. It suddenly lost all electrical power and coasted to a stop, and would not turn on anymore. I'm guessing blown fuse. I got it towed back and the battery is still fine. Is it a blown fuse? Could it be anything else?
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Mar 10, 2010 16:22
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:GOD drat IT. My CBR stranded me on the highway. It suddenly lost all electrical power and coasted to a stop, and would not turn on anymore. I'm guessing blown fuse. I got it towed back and the battery is still fine. Is it a blown fuse? Could it be anything else? It's probably a blown fuse, and it's probably because your wiring harness has rubbed through somewhere and is shorting out. Look for any rub spots on the wiring harness, disconnected or damaged connectors, or pinched wires. Check your fuses, too. There's the main fusebox, and then usually there's a "main fuse" that's somewhere on the starter solenoid. I'd place my bets on the main fuse being blown. Gnaghi posted:This is probably going to sound really dumb, especially to the track guys, but what exactly is maintenance throttle? Maintenance throttle is using the throttle to maintain or slightly increase your speed through the corner to help you maintain ideal weight distribution. quote:Twist of the Wrist says you should be rolling on the gas, but that isn't very exact. How fast do I roll on? It's not very exact because it varies for each corner and motorcycle. For your VFR, maybe 10-15% throttle is enough to get you up to the ideal 40f/60r weight distribution. For a small displacement 4 stroke at high speed, you may need 40% or more throttle just to maintain your speed. If the corner is positive camber, you can be more aggressive with the throttle thanks to having more overall traction. If it's downhill, you'll need to manage your entry speed much more carefully as you'll increase speed a lot faster. Why 40/60 (or even 30/70!) weight distribution and not the more traditional 50/50? Because your front contact patch is smaller than your rear one. If you load them both equally, the front will slide before the rear. If you load the rear more, you can go faster and/or use more lean angle without the bike sliding. Also, applying the throttle will lift the chassis of the motorcycle, thanks to the chain effectively pulling the rear wheel forward and acting on the suspension as a result. Finally, applying maintenance throttle allows weight to transfer rearward, deforms the rear tire, which increases contact patch, and as a result, gives you still more traction. It's just like applying the front brake progressively...if you stand it upright and smack the throttle, it'll want to spin. If you roll into the throttle as you stand it up right, it'll deform and drive. quote:Can I enter a turn at 20mph after a car turns out of my way and then blast out of it at 80, accelerating that much through it? It's possible, but it will depend on the corner. quote:Or once I'm leaned over can I not increase the throttle at all until I start to straighten out? Traction is a give and take. You have 100% traction, and if you're using 40% for lean and 60% for throttle, you had better reduce your lean before you ask for more throttle. So in general, it is a good rule to avoid adding throttle if you're not also reducing lean. However, you can get away with it until you start to get close to the edge of grip. However, most people go through a corner using only a small % of overall traction. So most of the time, you can get away with adding throttle without reducing lean angle because you're using less than your overall traction amount. But it's not a good habit to be in, as it will cause problems as you get faster. Not respecting the removing lean angle as you add throttle is what caused 3 track crashes for me. Finally, maintenance throttle is unique in this regard because it will allow more lean and more cornering clearance. You can lean farther with the bike slightly on the gas because you're effectively increasing the available traction by using the throttle to make sure you're not overloading the front or underloading the rear and causing a slide. quote:I've been trying to understand my accident last year, where my VFR lowsided at a corner exit. My belief right now is I tried to gas it before I stood it up (not balancing lean and throttle). My attitude has changed from "motorcycles have infinite grip" to "how the hell can I tell how much they grip". Could be because of that. Did you lose the front or the rear? The bike will wheelie while still leaned over out of a corner but only to a point, if you're still relying on the front tire to maintain lean and you get it off the ground, it'll wash out and you'll lowside. You could have also overloaded the rear contact patch with too much throttle or a very aggressive application, not allowing time for weight to transfer to maintain traction. As to how to learn how to manage it? Dirt riding is great, so is supermoto. Just screwing around on a dirt bike, where traction is highly variable, will get you learning how to both steer with the throttle and feeling out grip. There you go, more  than you ever wanted on throttle application! 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 17:39
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Gnaghi posted:My attitude has changed from "motorcycles have infinite grip" to "how the hell can I tell how much they grip". That made riding Z3N's SM perhaps rather less fun than it might have been.
Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 17:41
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Jabs posted:Since my (extremely low speed) off last fall, I've been suffering the same thing, but perhaps a bit worse. Since I lost it in a situation where I totally didn't expect to (the road was going from 'wet' to 'a bit damp', and I was slowing (1500ish RPM 2nd gear engine braking at ~10 mph) when the front wheel just fell out from under me), I've gone from "Aside from not having 4 wheels to balance on, motorcycles have grip levels similar to a car", to "They'll loving throw your rear end on the ground at the slightest provocation". If you're going to lose it, it's going to be in a situation you totally don't expect to. You don't go riding down the road and think "I'm totally going to lay it down at the next roundabout" and pat yourself on the back for your foresight when you do. When it's wet out you just have to take it super easy on the street because you never know what's under your tire. Paint, metal, wood, gravel, any of it can pucker your anus especially if you're not gentle with the front brake.
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Mar 10, 2010 18:21
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ReelBigLizard posted:I are not! 
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Mar 10, 2010 18:26
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Thanks for the great responses guys. Zool posted:How much throttle is going to depend on the bike, the corner, the line, and the rider, but it's on the order of an increase from 20->30mph, not 20->80. Ok...it seems like my problem is being a wuss on my entry speeds since my lowside (maybe before as well) and then trying to make up for it through the corner. Then when I get close to a good speed/lean angle I'm already too heavy on the throttle maybe? Z3n posted:Could be because of that. Did you lose the front or the rear? The bike will wheelie while still leaned over out of a corner but only to a point, if you're still relying on the front tire to maintain lean and you get it off the ground, it'll wash out and you'll lowside. You could have also overloaded the rear contact patch with too much throttle or a very aggressive application, not allowing time for weight to transfer to maintain traction. It happened really really quick, but I'm pretty sure the back came out. I had scuffs off the tire onto the rim. On my old Buell the only wheelies I ever pulled were coming out of turns, so maybe I had a few close calls without knowing it there too. The turn is slightly uphill, if that's what you mean by positive camber. It's funny you should say that about the supermoto, cause it's like no fear when I'm on mine and all these rules just don't apply.  How would I practice in the dirt, though? Same techniques just while sliding around? Having fallen off there too, I can say it's a lot less painful to learn on.
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Mar 10, 2010 18:40
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Gnaghi posted:Thanks for the great responses guys. You can practice in the dirt because you can exceed the limits of traction without the consequences being as serious. Take your sumo out to the dirt and just slide slide slide. Get used to breaking the rear end lose, and try and predict and feel when the front is gonna go. Train yourself to have the correct reaction to a given situation, if you're hard on the gas and the front starts to wash, holding it, if you're off the gas and the front starts to wash, getting back on it and saving it. Really, for street riding, it's just a lot of working up to it. The overall level of traction is a lot higher so the consequences of loving it up are a lot more extreme. Give it time, the comfort level will return and you'll start to get more comfortable with deeper lean and more aggressive throttle application.
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Mar 10, 2010 18:46
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Got the bike out today. Did a very brief once over to make sure I had oil and no mice had moved in. Took it for a quick ride, and it was great. I have a couple quick questions though. I haven't cleaned/lubed my chain since I got the bike (last summer), so I'm planning to do that this week. What should I use to clean it? I Googled a bit, but ended up reading an argument about WD-40 on wBW, and figured I'd ask the experts. Are there any recommended brands of lube, or are they all the same? Secondly, last season, when I would start up, especially on a chilly morning, I would let it run for a while before taking off. Everything would seem fine, but if I stopped on an incline, it would stall out when I accelerated again. The problem went away after riding for a while. The problem presented itself again today. I had to let it run about 15-20 minutes before I could get it up the semi-steep, but very short, hill in my backyard. Is there a potential solution for this, or should I chalk it up to owning a 30 year old bike ('79 GS750L)?
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Mar 11, 2010 04:21
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I use 90w gear oil. It flings off but it keeps the chain clean and is easy to apply. As to getting the bike up the hill, rev it more and slip the clutch.
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Mar 11, 2010 07:09
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how much free ply is normal for a cush drive hub?
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Mar 11, 2010 08:17
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Zool posted:In my quest to find the answer to this question I've crashed my track bike 20 something times. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v--naS5RqdU#t=02m15s Demonstration of traction mastery SUUUUUUPPPPPEEEEERRRRRRMOTO
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Mar 11, 2010 09:02
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Spiffness posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v--naS5RqdU#t=02m15s Supermoto...we do dumb poo poo on purpose
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Mar 11, 2010 14:13
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Z3n posted:It's probably a blown fuse, and it's probably because your wiring harness has rubbed through somewhere and is shorting out. Look for any rub spots on the wiring harness, disconnected or damaged connectors, or pinched wires. You were right on the money. After getting it towed yesterday I tore the bike down to the frame and carbs (just because by then I decided that working on my bike was going to make me happier than making money at work that day) and discovered that: 1) My main fuse was done 2) The rectifier had burned the wires connected to it enough so that they melted the rubber insulation and contacted the frame. Whoops. Changed out the fuse and cut out the offending wires to at least make sure the bike would run without that short, and it ran fine after that. Ah well, at least I got some other stuff out of the way, like an oil change and adjusting the throttle play. I even got a preview as to what a pain in the rear end the carbs will be to remove, and holy gently caress the airbox must have 300 screws you have to gently caress with. How difficult is it to change fork seals? That's my next project.
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Mar 11, 2010 14:24
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Armacham posted:how much free ply is normal for a cush drive hub? Not much, if you need to ask that question then you probably need to change out the wedges.
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Mar 11, 2010 15:05
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:You were right on the money. After getting it towed yesterday I tore the bike down to the frame and carbs (just because by then I decided that working on my bike was going to make me happier than making money at work that day) and discovered that: what year CBR? Similar sort of thing happened on my old '93 VFR, but it didn't blow the fuse. A bit of corrosion on the contacts leads to more resistance leads to more heat leads to more corrosion etc, etc, things melt, battery doesn't charge anymore, maybe rectifier finally kicks the bucket. Nice to know Honda has got their electrics sorted out 
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Mar 11, 2010 16:07
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Linedance posted:what year CBR? Similar sort of thing happened on my old '93 VFR, but it didn't blow the fuse. A bit of corrosion on the contacts leads to more resistance leads to more heat leads to more corrosion etc, etc, things melt, battery doesn't charge anymore, maybe rectifier finally kicks the bucket. Nice to know Honda has got their electrics sorted out It's a '94 F2. Apparently the R/R is a pretty big PITA with these bikes, along with the camchain tensioner. The PO had already replaced it at least once because I clearly have an aftermarket unit on my bike.
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Mar 11, 2010 16:30
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ReelBigLizard posted:Not much, if you need to ask that question then you probably need to change out the wedges. yeah thats what I thought, I just checked and its only 23 bucks + shipping for the rubbers anyway so I order them. 33000 miles on my bike so they are probably due
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Mar 11, 2010 17:08
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:It's a '94 F2. Apparently the R/R is a pretty big PITA with these bikes, along with the camchain tensioner. The PO had already replaced it at least once because I clearly have an aftermarket unit on my bike. I had the same problem on my 02 929, so rest assured, it's one of the main honda issues. Mine burned up the connector, so I just spliced it directly in to the wiring harness. It makes it more of a pain in the rear end to replace it, but it reduces the chances of it leaving you totally stranded. You've got the same year that I do...fork seals are kinda a pain in the rear end.
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Mar 11, 2010 17:26
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Several questions in no particular order: Taxes came and went, and I still have some money, so it's time to burn it and dance around like a lunatic... with that in mind I had a conversation with a guy at the gym who seems dead set on keeping me from finishing my legs workout. He waxed poetic about how great Moto Guzzis are, saying their engines are easy to maintain and incredibly reliable. I was under the impression that everything italian was tempermental, esoteric, and expensive to repair. But it's intriguing because, while I like the m109, it's a fat bike, and the difference in thickness between the front and rear tires makes it sidewind on turns. I've finally started getting comfortable enough to take it down roads I enjoyed pushing in my car, and it's trickier feeling than I like. The big rear foot print seems nice for helping to slow down in the middle of a turn, like when I went in too fast and didn't realize it, but the way it wobbles when I enter more confidently is annoying. Plus, while I appreciate the weight for typical cruising tasks, like sitting behind a huge truck and getting buffeted by the wind, it doesn't necessarily suit me. I'm thinking of selling it and looking elsewhere after I've had it for a year. So according to this guy, moto guzzi makes incredible cruisers. I started looking here http://www.motoguzzicalifornia.com/2009/12/oil-change/ and I'm 50/50. There's stuff in there about a recall on some hydraulics and comments like 'quirky'. Anybody have some experience? Then there's the other side of things. My second (and hopefully last) mistake I made on the 109 was to grab too much front brake at low speed when an SUV stopped in an intersection for no reason. I didn't hit anything, and it wasn't a crash, but I let the bike fall, and that broke a mounting bracket on the air filter pod thing and scuffed the plastic cover. I have no idea why a part that touches the ground when the bike lies down is so cheesy, but that's how it is. So I'm thinking, regardless, I need to do some kind of repair here, and I kind of like the look of the Arlen ness Billet Sucker air cleaners. Which seems to replace this pod thing with a disc that wouldn't stick out as much, and allow greater airflow. It's fairly expensive, but I'm trying to figure out, just by looking, is all it takes? I mean, here's the part: http://www.powersports360.com/eshop...0304_f0308_2008 and here's the OEM setup: https://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/air-cleaner-m109r-2006-07.html I've tried looking at it, and what's confusing is that there seems to be a hole between the cylinders where the air intake is but that diagram for the part makes it look like there's something else sitting forward of the engine somewhere? I'm not really sure. anyway, I'm considering spending ~600-700 bucks to replace the filters altogether as part of the cosmetic damage, and then get crash bars and live with the bike for a while, since I do enjoy it, or spend the minimum ~300 it looks like it will take to repair it and look to move on in a few months when it's summer and you can get an alright deal on a sale.
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Mar 11, 2010 20:07
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Z3n posted:I use 90w gear oil. It flings off but it keeps the chain clean and is easy to apply. I tried that. I played with it for 10 minutes trying to get up that drat hill. It's possible (probable) that I don't know what I'm doing, but I don't think anything was getting it up that hill until it warmed up further.
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Mar 11, 2010 20:14
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Spiffness posted:Demonstration of traction mastery Speaking of.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adNmwFfwONQ#t=01m16s
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Mar 11, 2010 21:19
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orthod0ks posted:I tried that. I played with it for 10 minutes trying to get up that drat hill. It's possible (probable) that I don't know what I'm doing, but I don't think anything was getting it up that hill until it warmed up further. The bike should have been warmed up after a couple of minutes, so I'm inclined to say it's something else. Hard to say exactly without seeing you ride and the hill though.
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Mar 11, 2010 22:23
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Zool posted:Speaking of.. I was so hoping at the end he was going to get back on the bike and keep going like it was no thang.
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Mar 11, 2010 23:07
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Z3n posted:The bike should have been warmed up after a couple of minutes, so I'm inclined to say it's something else. Hard to say exactly without seeing you ride and the hill though. Is there something I should look for, or more information I can get you, or do you think it's just technique/experience related?
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Mar 11, 2010 23:36
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orthod0ks posted:Is there something I should look for, or more information I can get you, or do you think it's just technique/experience related? Well, how are you trying to get the bike up the hill? What's happening? Does it spin the rear tire or just stall? Is the hill pavement or dirt?
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Mar 11, 2010 23:42
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I unfortunately can't help orthod0ks, but I do have a similar problem to his. I just recently got my Honda Rebel ('09) back out on the road, after sitting for a while over the winter. It ran fantastic for the first two days, and then today it's started dying on me at random intervals. Once at a stoplight, three times on the highway, and once cruising at around 35mph. I have no idea what the problem could be, because when I turn the bike back on, it idles great. No sputters or kicks, just a smooth perfect idle, then I apply some throttle, even the teeny tiniest bit, and the engine dies. After a minute of working the throttle back and forth and swearing and screaming in traffic, the bike will start and ride like usual, but only for a short time (I think the longest today was ten miles). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Mar 12, 2010 01:43
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unSavory posted:I unfortunately can't help orthod0ks, but I do have a similar problem to his. I'm no expert, but I've had the same thing happen to me as I was running out of fuel. Maybe a stuck petcock of some sort? Mine would idle fine, then when I'd open the throttle a little bit it'd start to die. At first I thought it was a clogged carb until I found out I didn't have any gas in the tank. Or maybe you have a clogged carb? Check anything related to the fuel line I'd say. Speaking of petcocks, I have a 78 GS 750, vacuum petcock and Mikuni VM26SS* carbs. And I can't find a drat place to plug the vacuum hose into. I've looked all over the carbs and can't find anything that looks promising. So heres my question, there is a hole on each manifold that has been drilled and tapped, and has a tiny hexhead bolt in. I believe these are intended to be used to sync carbs with, but can I take my little carbtune fittings, and plug one end of the vacuum line into it and the other the petcock? Is that a horrible idea? Will it even pull enough vacuum? My other option it seems is to buy a manual petcock, but thats kinda expensive and I'd rather not. *Edit- So I just learned they're VM26SS instead of VM22SS....soo I dunno if that changes much, they look drat near identical aside from bore sizes. TiberiusM fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 01:52
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Oh, actually that reminds me that I had another question. These issues may be related? I put an aftermarket tank on this thing about a month ago, and the aftermarket tank doesn't have anywhere to attach what i assume is a sort of breather/vent tube? It runs tothe carb, but isn't the petcock fuel line. Sooooo did I buy the wrong tank or what? I can ride for maybe fifty miles before I have to pop the tank filler cover, which is almost always met with a Whoosh, as if there's excess pressure building up in the tank. gently caress. I had a full tank when the bike started dying intermittently. unSavory fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 02:08
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Its almost assuredly vacuum building up in the tank. There is no breather built into the cap?
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Mar 12, 2010 02:40
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Z3n posted:Well, how are you trying to get the bike up the hill? What's happening? Does it spin the rear tire or just stall? Is the hill pavement or dirt? Yesterday it was a dirt hill in my backyard. It wasn't spinning. It was stalling. Last season, I would start it up and let it warm up for 5-10 minutes. I'd leave and it would seem fine, but shortly after I head out, there's an incline that's not very steep, that I have to stop on waiting to turn left. When I'd make the left, it would stall once or twice. It would eventually get me there, but it sucks stalling on a busy road with a line of traffic behind you. Today I took it out again. I gave it 10-15 minutes to warm up, and it ran fine with the choke closed. It was fine slowly pulling into the road, but when I got there and gave it some gas, it sputtered out on me and stalled. I started it right back up and opened the choke some, and it ran fine. After another 5 min or so, I closed the choke, and everything ran fine. I don't know if it just needs more time to warm up or what, but 10-15 minutes seems excessive to me.
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Mar 12, 2010 02:54
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