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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Several questions in no particular order: Yes, Gooses can be quirky but not that tempermental. The older ones were stone simple. Most of the maintenence items are easy to access and you can get an external oil filter kit to avoid the internal filter goofieness. The sound they make at redline is 110% delightful, it's sort of a small block chevy war cry. They did go through a rough period in the early 2000's. Numerous electrical and finish problems. Those bikes are best avoided unless you are willing to dig deep and make the mods (mostly updating the relays).
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Mar 12, 2010 03:36
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orthod0ks posted:Yesterday it was a dirt hill in my backyard. It wasn't spinning. It was stalling. Last season, I would start it up and let it warm up for 5-10 minutes. I'd leave and it would seem fine, but shortly after I head out, there's an incline that's not very steep, that I have to stop on waiting to turn left. When I'd make the left, it would stall once or twice. It would eventually get me there, but it sucks stalling on a busy road with a line of traffic behind you. Do you have fresh gas in there? If it's stalling, give it more gas and slip the clutch more.
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Mar 12, 2010 04:54
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To the F2 guys (Z3n, infraboy?), what hoses should be connected to the gas tank? I just realized when I took my tank off earlier, that all I had to remove was the fuel line from the petcock. Shouldn't there be a vacuum line on there? What should I have, and where does it go? I'm hoping this is a factor in my bike being hard to start. Edit: According to service manual, I should have a vent tube, drain tube, fuel line, and a vacuum tube, but it's not really clear where everything goes, or what size hose to get if I'm completely missing it. Edi2: Guy on another forum says the PO may have disconnected the vacuum line on purpose if the petcock failed and started letting gas flow at all times. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 15:29
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Zool posted:Speaking of.. As he gets to his knees and looks around a bit, all I could hear was "There's...wait...wasn't I just on a bike?"
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Mar 12, 2010 16:53
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The "crash sounds" people make are the worst. You dont really notice them when you go down yourself, but hearing them happen on video is just horrible.
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Mar 12, 2010 17:58
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:To the F2 guys (Z3n, infraboy?), what hoses should be connected to the gas tank? I just realized when I took my tank off earlier, that all I had to remove was the fuel line from the petcock. Shouldn't there be a vacuum line on there? What should I have, and where does it go? I'm hoping this is a factor in my bike being hard to start. You're gonna have the fuel line going from petcock to carbs, the drain tube will just vent straight off the back. The vacuum tube will go from engine to petcock, and the drain tube typically goes straight to the carbon canister. If you think the vent issue is causing hard starting, pop open the gas tank and try starting it then. If it works, your vent setup is probably clogged.
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Mar 12, 2010 18:25
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Phat_Albert posted:The "crash sounds" people make are the worst. You dont really notice them when you go down yourself, but hearing them happen on video is just horrible. I'm 30 in a month. I make those sounds sitting down and getting up from chairs.
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Mar 12, 2010 19:25
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Z3n posted:You're gonna have the fuel line going from petcock to carbs, the drain tube will just vent straight off the back. The vacuum tube will go from engine to petcock, and the drain tube typically goes straight to the carbon canister. If you think the vent issue is causing hard starting, pop open the gas tank and try starting it then. If it works, your vent setup is probably clogged. This motorcycle forum is awesome. I didn't even think of trying that. Now I get to experiment when I get home with 
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Mar 12, 2010 20:29
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NitroSpazzz posted:I'm going to talk to the warehouse guys and see if we could stand to get rid of a few. They were used for shipping old hardware. They are air/water tight, have lockable latches, and come with a ton of foam inside. I've stripped a few out for various projects before. Did this ever come through?
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Mar 12, 2010 20:34
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Phat_Albert posted:Did this ever come through? I have three coming in next week to check out and test. Sadly a total of seven is all that are available right now. If they get here before Wednesday next week I will get pictures and specs up otherwise it will have to wait a week. I'm currently trying to locate a spare rear seat for the SV to sacrifice for a mount.
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Mar 12, 2010 21:07
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Since the KTM doesnt need a key to start up I figured it may be a good ivestment to look into some anti-theft measures. What do you guys use if any? $20 master lock ones look good and come with the reminder cord.
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Mar 12, 2010 23:03
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Since the KTM doesnt need a key to start up I figured it may be a good ivestment to look into some anti-theft measures. What do you guys use if any? $20 master lock ones look good and come with the reminder cord. Jet it so it's impossible to start without a careful starting ritual. Serious answer though, I'd rig up a little hidden switch tucked away somewhere.
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Mar 12, 2010 23:24
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When doing a valve adjustment with screw/nut type adjusters, how tight should one tighten the lock nuts? My manuals don't have a torque rating. I don't want to gently caress the threads up, but I don't want the constant motion & vibration to make them come loose. Something like 20 ft/lbs? Or "Just past snug" ? This is on the 89 GSXR 750.
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Mar 13, 2010 00:48
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The manual for my GSX750ES says 9-11 Nm, which is 6.6 to 8.1 ft lbs. I don't have a torque wrench small and accurate enough for that, so I just use a regular wrench and tighten it with one finger until my sphincter starts to pucker.
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Mar 13, 2010 01:19
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I'd imagine not a ton, the 250's torque specs around 13ft/lbs
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Mar 13, 2010 01:20
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OK so just snug, good. Itd be a disaster if it broke/stripped.
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Mar 13, 2010 01:34
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Since the KTM doesnt need a key to start up I figured it may be a good ivestment to look into some anti-theft measures. What do you guys use if any? $20 master lock ones look good and come with the reminder cord. I use a brake lock and like it; some guys don't think they're really all that effective because someone could still just haul the bike away. I knew a guy who wired 6 tiny toggle switches into his ignition line that had to be set in a certain order to let the bike start. Hassle if you ask me and there is still the 'getting hauled off' argument. As for home you can always drop a concrete anchor eye bolt into your driveway or garage and just throw a chain through it and your frame. I did this when I only had street level parking. Not sure the city would approve of what I installed in the side of their curb but what they dunno doesn't hurt me.
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Mar 13, 2010 02:02
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Welp, I picked up those case protectors from Cycle Sector. I guess I'll see how it goes 
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Mar 13, 2010 06:14
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Z3n posted:Do you have fresh gas in there? No, but I threw staybil in before I put it away for the winter. A buddy said he had a similar problem with his car, and fixed it by switching to ethanol free gas. Can someone explain slipping the clutch? I've never driven a manual car, so maybe I just don't understand what you're saying. orthod0ks fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 06:17
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Ok, so you know your clutch handle, right? Squeeze it to the handlebar, the clutch is "in". Let it go, the clutch is all the way "out". Now, because of the way a clutch is designed, it's not quite binary. Imagine your bike's in first gear, and the clutch is all the way in. Now, slowly relax your grip on the clutch, so it moves farther and farther out. Eventually, you'll hit a point where the bike just barely wants to move forward a tad, but you can stop it with your feet and it won't stall out. You'll feel it want to move, though. This is the start of "slipping", I forget the actual name for this point. Anyway: it's still not binary! The clutch can slip for another few degrees of handle travel before it's entirely engaged. While it's between "not-engaged" and "engaged", you can rev the engine to provide more power, which will get you moving, and there's less chance of stalling it out due to the direct connection between wheel and engine as in "engaged". If you have a rider training course available near you, they will definitely cover this, in an environment where it's safe(er) to experiment. Clutch control is one of the very basics of operating a manual transmission.
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Mar 13, 2010 06:58
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Phy posted:Eventually, you'll hit a point where the bike just barely wants to move forward a tad, but you can stop it with your feet and it won't stall out. You'll feel it want to move, though. This is the start of "slipping", I forget the actual name for this point. Anyway: it's still not binary! The clutch can slip for another few degrees of handle travel before it's entirely engaged. While it's between "not-engaged" and "engaged", you can rev the engine to provide more power, which will get you moving, and there's less chance of stalling it out due to the direct connection between wheel and engine as in "engaged". MSF calls it the Friction Zone, dunno if thats the actual term for it.
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Mar 13, 2010 07:10
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TiberiusM posted:MSF calls it the Friction Zone, dunno if thats the actual term for it. That's a pretty standard term everybody uses referring to the range of travel in the clutch that causes it to engage with the transmission.
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Mar 13, 2010 07:27
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orthod0ks posted:No, but I threw staybil in before I put it away for the winter. A buddy said he had a similar problem with his car, and fixed it by switching to ethanol free gas. Stabil helps but you need to get fresh gas in there before you start diagnosing poo poo.
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Mar 13, 2010 09:56
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unSavory posted:I unfortunately can't help orthod0ks, but I do have a similar problem to his. Fuel filter is cogged (located in your petcock) or your float valve hangs. It's also possibly that your tank ventilation is blocked. Do you have a vacuum in the gas tank if you remove the tank cap after it stalls?
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Mar 13, 2010 10:16
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Time to fix my loving leak but need HALP Ok, here is our problem area:  The o-ring around the gear selector shaft.  Now, I'm back to the same place I was before starting my Euro trip. Back then I had cut out all the rubber bits but the metal bit was not moving a micron. So I cut the rubber bits out of the new gasket, glued it on with gasket goo and rode 4000 miles with a mere 4.5 quarts leaking out. So the red bits are the remains of the gasket goo and the metal ring nearest to the shaft is the lip of the oil seal. The lip is tiny but the oil seal itself continues inwards as a cylinder for about half an inch. How in the gently caress do I get it out? I'm going to have to pull the selector shaft right? 
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Mar 13, 2010 15:24
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Ola posted:How in the gently caress do I get it out? I'm going to have to pull the selector shaft right? You've got pretty much the same setup as my GT750s, although Suzuki apparently learned not to let the gear indicator stick out enough to let you bleed to death in a nanno second if you have a chain drop. That aside, I've tried everything. That seal is easy to remove from the inside, and that means a tear down. I've done that regularly (3 times per decade per bike) and just routinely changed that seal amongst other. Once I was really hardcore about not tearing down my gearbox for changing that godamn seal, I visited a pro. Lo and behold - a shift shaft seal removal tool does exist. I even saw it in action. I can't find it online anywhere though. Maybe a dealers-only-tool? However, if you aim to keep the bike, a tear down might be in place. Consider the bleeding from the shift shaft seal an indicator. Several other parts in your engine is most likely crying just as bad. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 17:41
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So last night I was fixing the knocking in my clutch and everything went as according to plan except for when I put it all back together. Now when the bike is in gear, the rear wheel wont' move. Just sticks in place. It's the strangest thing. I couldn't have possibly seized my engine by spinning the wheel a couple times (rolling it out of the way of a car) with the bike in gear....could I have? Edit - I have yet to put oil back into the bike and I definitely have not started it since I opened up the crankcase cover.
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Mar 13, 2010 18:21
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Ola posted:How in the gently caress do I get it out? I'm going to have to pull the selector shaft right? I changed the leaking shift shaft seal on my RD350 without splitting the cases. It was a matter of getting a pick set (much like these) and pulling it out. I dont know that your bike is exactly the same, but its worth a shot I guess. Make drat sure the shift shaft is spotlessly clean before you pull the old seal out, or you'll be pushing a ton of gunk into your motor when you put the new one on.
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Mar 13, 2010 18:37
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ari.gato posted:So last night I was fixing the knocking in my clutch and everything went as according to plan except for when I put it all back together. Now when the bike is in gear, the rear wheel wont' move. Just sticks in place. It's the strangest thing. I couldn't have possibly seized my engine by spinning the wheel a couple times (rolling it out of the way of a car) with the bike in gear....could I have? Can you turn the engine by hand? Or maybe when you were putting the bike back together the gears for the clutch basket, driven gear, etc aren't meshed properly and locking up on something. You could also have something blocking the gears from moving. I very much doubt the engine seized, that just sounds silly. Just look at it again, try to find where it's binding up.
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Mar 13, 2010 18:50
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Chairon posted:Can you turn the engine by hand? Or maybe when you were putting the bike back together the gears for the clutch basket, driven gear, etc aren't meshed properly and locking up on something. You could also have something blocking the gears from moving. I very much doubt the engine seized, that just sounds silly. Just look at it again, try to find where it's binding up. I can't turn the engine by hand either. I think when I put the cover back on over the friction / clutch plates, it locked up then. I'll look there first. I'm going to tear the clutch down again in an hour or so and see if starting over fixes the issue. God down heavily with the carbs two weeks ago, now going to be a clutch expert. Hooray.
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Mar 13, 2010 18:55
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ari.gato posted:So last night I was fixing the knocking in my clutch and everything went as according to plan except for when I put it all back together. Now when the bike is in gear, the rear wheel wont' move. Just sticks in place. It's the strangest thing. I couldn't have possibly seized my engine by spinning the wheel a couple times (rolling it out of the way of a car) with the bike in gear....could I have? Did you offset the plates correctly? Usually one is rotated one set of teeth on the clutch basket, or one clutch plate is slightly different.
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Mar 13, 2010 19:27
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Ola posted:Time to fix my loving leak but need HALP Northern winters are best used for tearing down bikes and other needed chores so you don't have to gently caress with it during riding season. I don't know if it's getting any warmer in your neck of the woods, it sure doesn't seem to be here, but you should be able to get the engine out, cases split and back together before riding season. It reallly is that time. Time to swap that out. Or maybe the Snap-On truck has something that will work, if you have a Snap-On truck there.
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Mar 13, 2010 19:37
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Z3n posted:Did you offset the plates correctly? Usually one is rotated one set of teeth on the clutch basket, or one clutch plate is slightly different. Took the plates all out at the same time (not individually) and put them back the same way. I'll break out the clymers and see if I can put them back in order individually. Maybe that will do it.
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Mar 13, 2010 19:37
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Got the fucker out. Had to pull the clutch and it was such a treat of good design solutions. I even got to caress my crank and peer beneath my #4 piston. I'll make a thread for it as I've taken quite a few pics and have more fixes to come!
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Mar 13, 2010 19:53
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Can a windshield cause a bike to become unstable over 40 mph? I put a small spitfire windshield on, and I had to fight to keep the drat thing on the road. The day is a little windy, but it almost felt like I had a ton of air pushing me off the side of the road.
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Mar 13, 2010 21:53
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Can a windshield cause a bike to become unstable over 40 mph? I put a small spitfire windshield on, and I had to fight to keep the drat thing on the road. The day is a little windy, but it almost felt like I had a ton of air pushing me off the side of the road. If it clamps to your triple-t, then sure. Wind would put additional torque into your steering as if you were turning the handlebars.
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Mar 13, 2010 22:25
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ari.gato posted:So last night I was fixing the knocking in my clutch and everything went as according to plan except for when I put it all back together. Now when the bike is in gear, the rear wheel wont' move. Just sticks in place. It's the strangest thing. I couldn't have possibly seized my engine by spinning the wheel a couple times (rolling it out of the way of a car) with the bike in gear....could I have? I've never been able to move the rear wheel of a bike that was in gear. The engine's compression stops it. Also, put oil in it before you try and turn anything. The engine oil lubricates the gearbox and you really shouldn't spin it un-lubricated.
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Mar 13, 2010 23:23
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Z3n posted:Did you offset the plates correctly? Usually one is rotated one set of teeth on the clutch basket, or one clutch plate is slightly different. So I tore down the clutch again and it seems like the clutch plates / friction plates were just sticking together. I had the bike sitting without oil for a week (crankcase cover in place of course) so maybe it dried out?  Once I put it all back together, I noticed when the clutch/friction plates mashed together, it wouldn't move, but when they weren't really touching, or barely touching, the wheel would spin just fine. I put the whole thing back together (paying close attention to the Clymers to be ABSOLUTELY sure I did it correctly), covered it, and poured fresh oil back into the crankcase. In Neutral, I can roll it fine, in 1st gear I can't roll it, but when I pull the clutch lever in fully, it slowly unsticks and rolls freely until I let the clutch lever out and then it sticks shut again. I'm going to go grab a bite for lunch and see if it fixes itself while I'm gone.
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Mar 13, 2010 23:23
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ari.gato posted:So I tore down the clutch again and it seems like the clutch plates / friction plates were just sticking together. I had the bike sitting without oil for a week (crankcase cover in place of course) so maybe it dried out? That's pretty standard, clutch plates drag pretty bad when the bike is off. It should roll freely in neutral and be difficult to push around in gear with the clutch pulled in and impossible if it's in gear with the clutch out.
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Mar 14, 2010 02:22
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Z3n posted:That's pretty standard, clutch plates drag pretty bad when the bike is off. It should roll freely in neutral and be difficult to push around in gear with the clutch pulled in and impossible if it's in gear with the clutch out. Sweet! I did it correctly then. I guess my clutch wasn't functioning properly before I tore it down. Another point for me. Awesome!
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Mar 14, 2010 02:29
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