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Phat_Albert posted:I changed the leaking shift shaft seal on my RD350 without splitting the cases. It was a matter of getting a pick set (much like these) and pulling it out. I own several RD350s too (YPVSs though, afik yours is a LC?), and I can attest that Olas Suzuki GS poo poo is nothing like that. No loving dentist tool will pull it. I have an idea about making before mentioned tool, but i don't know what machinery Ola has access to. It's pretty simple though. TIG, some plate steel, a decent cutter, measuring tools, a nut and a bolt is what it takes. But really. If that seal bleeds so badly, just tear the engine down and rebuild it. Seriously.
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Mar 14, 2010 02:52
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Uthor posted:If it clamps to your triple-t, then sure. Wind would put additional torque into your steering as if you were turning the handlebars. they clamp to the bars themselves. Might have to take it back off and see if it makes a difference.
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Mar 14, 2010 02:55
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Blaster of Justice posted:
It was easier than I thought.  Description here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3279096
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Mar 14, 2010 02:56
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Ola posted:It was easier than I thought. Neat!. Non-related: You suffer from hyper-mobility in your thumbs. You'll provide my family of hand surgeons a great and steady income once you hit 45-50 y.o.  That said, you crazy Norwegian, if you can behave, hit the Copenhagen area next time you do a European tour, and we'll do some crazy bike related stuff. My wife might even allow you to sleep on our couch for a day or two. Internal: Altså hvis du kan holde totaktslarmen ud. Jeg er mest til mine små RD350'ere lige nu, men hvis du plager kan jeg sikkert finde CBX100'eren frem. Den har plader på ihvertfald. GT750erne er der helt sikkert mindst een klar af i begyndelsen af juni. Disclaimer: Ignore above Viking rubbish.
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Mar 14, 2010 03:33
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I am passing through Denmark on my way to England, most likely in August. Most likely it will be straight off the ferry in Hirthals and straight on to another in Esbjerg, but a detour would be fun! Also my hyper-mobile thumbs got me some female attention last weekend, strangely enough. I even got to crack the joke "if only you knew what these could do!". Not much more happened, her family is probably full of hand surgeons as well.
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Mar 14, 2010 03:42
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Ola posted:I am passing through Denmark on my way to England, most likely in August. Most likely it will be straight off the ferry in Hirthals and straight on to another in Esbjerg, but a detour would be fun! Thread pollution, but my family has a bit of land about 25 km from Esbjerg. I could offer a day of trap shooting and a couch there too. Let's arrange later.
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Mar 14, 2010 04:01
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Phy posted:clutch slipping Ok, that's what I assumed he meant, but I wasn't sure because... TiberiusM posted:MSF calls it the Friction Zone, dunno if thats the actual term for it. Yes, that's how I learned it in my MSF course. Z3n posted:Stabil helps but you need to get fresh gas in there before you start diagnosing poo poo. Will do. Thanks. I asked earlier, but didn't see an answer. What should I use to clean my chain? Gear oil was suggested to lube it, but will that clean it as well? WD-40 seems to be commonly used, but also commonly criticized.
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Mar 14, 2010 05:43
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Sorry 'bout all the  , I didn't realize it was just a terminology thing you were lookin' for
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Mar 14, 2010 06:19
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So I'm going through a freinds KDX220 we just got him for $500 dollars. The P.O. drilled holes in the airbox under the right side panel for more airflow that I need to plug. I don't want any rigid epoxy, I've been told to buy "GOOP", any other suggestions (outside of tape). They're probably 1/8th inch holes.
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Mar 14, 2010 17:04
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orthod0ks posted:Ok, that's what I assumed he meant, but I wasn't sure because... You run a bead of gear oil down each of the rows of orings, and then wipe off the excess. After 1-2 times lubing the chain like this, you'll have wiped off all the dirt, and the thin layer of oil that's left will help keep it clean. It's not sticky so it doesn't attract dirt like spray on lubes do.
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Mar 14, 2010 17:28
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Blaster of Justice posted:
My thumbs do the same thing! I thought it was cool. I had no idea they were going to fall off when I turn 45 
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Mar 14, 2010 18:59
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Bugdrvr posted:My thumbs do the same thing! I thought it was cool. I had no idea they were going to fall off when I turn 45 Likewise here, dammit But hey, at least now I know of yet another bike goon in the Copenhagen area
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Mar 14, 2010 19:49
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Blaster of Justice posted:I own several RD350s too (YPVSs though, afik yours is a LC?) I've since gotten rid of my RD, but it was a 72 air cooled.
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Mar 14, 2010 19:54
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KozmoNaut posted:Likewise here, dammit holst.niels at gmail
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Mar 14, 2010 19:58
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Phy posted:Sorry 'bout all the No apology necessary. I wasn't sure what I was looking for. I need a lot of details because I don't entirely know what I'm doing yet. Appreciate the help. Z3n posted:You run a bead of gear oil down each of the rows of orings, and then wipe off the excess. After 1-2 times lubing the chain like this, you'll have wiped off all the dirt, and the thin layer of oil that's left will help keep it clean. It's not sticky so it doesn't attract dirt like spray on lubes do. Thanks. Sounds like a slow process. I'll do it when I have some to spare.
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Mar 14, 2010 21:38
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orthod0ks posted:Thanks. Sounds like a slow process. I'll do it when I have some to spare. What Z3n advised takes like 1 minute. Spare your arrogance. You'll need it later. Trust me.
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Mar 14, 2010 21:55
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I use the gear lube method, and it takes like 5 minutes tops from putting the bike on the stand to taking it off. I picked up a ketchup/mustard bottle from Walmart (not an actual bottle, but the generic ones in the kitchen utensils section), and use that to run a bead of oil down each side of the chain. It's almost perfect, and after once or twice you'll learn how much to squeeze it to get just enough oil on the chain. oil on, wipe off, repeat, and you're done. I do get a fair bit of fling-off, but it only lasts for the first ride or so. I just wipe if off the wheel with a rag when I get home again. I also clean out behind the front chain cover once every couple months.
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Mar 14, 2010 22:52
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I dusted off my Ninja 250R yesterday. It was stuck outside in winter under cover. It hasn't ran since November. I put Stabil in the tank as winter rolled in and have already replaced the old gas with new gas. I couldn't run Stabil through the engine because of a lousy connector that I couldn't find to turn the bike on. I cleaned off the chain every now and then, it's in good shape. The brake discs are rusty though. I tried starting up the bike, but it was struggling to start. The oil/neutral lights started to dim out after like ten cycles. I assume the battery is weak. I'll be bringing it into a shop this Tuesday. What should I ask the shop to look for? I'm just afraid of any possible consequences on my poor 250 from the winter's wrath of being out there.
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Mar 14, 2010 23:36
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Blaster of Justice posted:What Z3n advised takes like 1 minute. Spare your arrogance. You'll need it later. Trust me. Oh, I was thinking a bead for each link. Sure you don't mean spare my ignorance? 
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Mar 15, 2010 00:00
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orthod0ks posted:Oh, I was thinking a bead for each link. Sure you don't mean spare my ignorance? Well, you'll want to hit each link for sure. Essentially just run it down the chain, and get it into the gaps between the endplates and the rollers, where the o-ring seals. I just spin the rear wheel, and run a bead along the endplates all the way around on one side, then the other.
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Mar 15, 2010 00:21
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the walkin dude posted:I dusted off my Ninja 250R yesterday. It was stuck outside in winter under cover. It hasn't ran since November. I put Stabil in the tank as winter rolled in and have already replaced the old gas with new gas. I couldn't run Stabil through the engine because of a lousy connector that I couldn't find to turn the bike on. I cleaned off the chain every now and then, it's in good shape. The brake discs are rusty though. If you're going to be bringing it in to a shop, you should just explain to them what happened and let them figure out what it needs. That's kind of the golden rule of shops...if you don't know what needs to be done, let them figure it out. We can tell you all kinds of crap that it could be, but in the end, if they're a decent shop, they'll be able to diagnose it and figure it out for a reasonable price.
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Mar 15, 2010 04:02
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Today I suited up and headed down to my motorcycle in the shared parking garage it's in and found someone attempted to steal it. It had the steering lock engaged, it looks like they hammered a screwdriver into the ignition and tried to turn it but failed. Fuckers. Well the problem is now I have a bike with the steering lock engaged and no way of unlocking it. The keyhole on the ignition is so hosed that the key won't even go inside it all of the way. My plan is to put it on a couple of furniture dolleys and roll it to the maintenance elevator and bring it upstairs to my apartment and start disassembling it in my living room. I've never been in this sort of situation before. Can you buy new ignition cylinders that use your key or do you get new keys with the new cylinder? And how am I going to dis-engage the steering lock? While I don't know for certain what to do I imagine if I take the entire front end off of the bike I can get to the cylinder itself and remove it. The bike is a 2004 GSXR 600. gently caress thieves.
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Mar 15, 2010 08:53
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You will get a new key most likely. You may want to replace the tank lock, and seat release keys at the same time, or you can just have two keys for the bike, up to you. I know you can order them in sets though, so you have the same key for all 3. You maybe can get a dealer to order the specific key numbered ignition that you're replacing, but I doubt it. Once you get the cylinder off, it should be very plug-n-play with the new one. I know the cylinders are secured from under the triple, so you'll probably have to yank the front bodywork off. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Mar 15, 2010 |
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Mar 15, 2010 15:17
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:The bike is a 2004 GSXR 600. I don't know much about the GSXR600, but usually steering locks are removed by punching out the rivet that holds the cover of the lock. Good luck, it's a PITA. I don't agree with loving thieves, since I'm not a necrophile.
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Mar 15, 2010 15:59
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Make sure there's no Suzuki immobilizer system...I don't think there is for that generation of GSX-Rs, but I know some of the other bikes match keys to ignitions to ECUs.
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Mar 15, 2010 16:04
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I dont think there was on the 04 GSXR's. Mine didnt have any special stuff in the key or anything.
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Mar 15, 2010 16:16
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Phat_Albert posted:I dont think there was on the 04 GSXR's. Mine didnt have any special stuff in the key or anything. I don't think so either, but it's one of those things where I'd want to be sure.
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Mar 15, 2010 16:36
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Nerobro, I'm guessing I'm looking at you here, but I have a chance to pick up a titled Suzuki TS-125 basket case for cheap. Anyone know anything about them? Google amazingly has little info on them. Are they reed valve or piston port? Did they all come with the dual-range tranny?
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Mar 15, 2010 17:43
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Can a windshield cause a bike to become unstable over 40 mph? I put a small spitfire windshield on, and I had to fight to keep the drat thing on the road. The day is a little windy, but it almost felt like I had a ton of air pushing me off the side of the road. Possibly. Windshields are great for keeping the wind off your chest, but in a stiff crosswind, they can act as a sail and can tug on your handlebars. I would expect that a cheap small windshield would flex more, but with a faring I can really notice the difference in a strong crosswind. It could just be that you aren't used to the different airflow too.
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Mar 15, 2010 20:04
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Curious problem on my GS500, I turned the key to the ON position today, all the lights fired up as usual, neutral was engaged, and I pulled in the clutch, and hit the starter button, then all the lights suddenly came off, there was no cranking or starter relay click. I checked the main fuse hoping that was it, but it was good. Haven't tested the battery with a voltometer yet, but I put it on a charger before I left for work, still nothing when I turn the key. edit: ok never mind I appear to have fixed it magically by unplugging and replugging in the diode. infraboy fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Mar 16, 2010 |
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Mar 16, 2010 01:24
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I have a very quick, very dumb question: I horribly damaged my right ankle a three years ago in a karting accident. I have a very limited range of motion, and it hurts like hell. I'm probably going to need to have it fused in the next few months. I'm considering learning to ride bikes, would having a non-functional right ankle be a safety issue? If I do, I would do it right with the MSF course and not-cheap gear and all. I'm fairly certain that (almost?) all bikes have the shift lever on the left, and I know I could handle braking with my right ankle. I'm going to be asking a doctor and also some friends for advice on this subject as well, I just wanted a few people's quick opinion of if riding would be possible with a right ankle that doesn't move.
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Mar 16, 2010 09:01
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Your right foot operates the rear brake, which you don't really need to use much anyways. You can still use the brake by moving your whole leg, or you can relocate the rear brake control to the handle bars with a thumb brake lever. Balancing the bike while stopped shouldn't be too much harder than standing still.
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Mar 16, 2010 09:08
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other option would be to get something with linked brakes, like some Hondas and BMWs, or some sort of twist&go with pushbike style brake controls.
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Mar 16, 2010 09:52
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Option 3 (arguably the most awesome option) is this:
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Mar 16, 2010 14:20
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Weinertron posted:I just wanted a few people's quick opinion of if riding would be possible with a right ankle that doesn't move. The simplest solution would be to re-rig the brake pedal in a way that you could actuate it and still have some feel. Either with the heel or by moving the foot backwards or forwards. I don't think any of the bikes with auto/semi-auto gearboxes has a rear brake lever instead of the clutch, but mounting a new lever on an otherwise empty left handlebar would also be pretty simple. The simplest solution is to get a bike that relies mostly on the front brake (i.e. a sportbike or a tourer with linked brakes, as Linedance mentioned) and just heel the rear brake when you need it at low speed for instance. Ola fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Mar 16, 2010 |
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Mar 16, 2010 15:18
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Phat_Albert posted:Option 3 (arguably the most awesome option) is this: Might as well drive. They are the most pointless vehicles in existence. Also, since all the braking is done by the foot pedal, completely unsuitable for some with dud ankles. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 16, 2010 |
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Mar 16, 2010 15:29
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Weinertron posted:I have a very quick, very dumb question: I horribly damaged my right ankle a three years ago in a karting accident. I have a very limited range of motion, and it hurts like hell. I'm probably going to need to have it fused in the next few months. Adding on to what others have said, the brake lever is fairly adjustable. I expect you could probably make it work for you. Most of your braking power is going to come from the front anyway, so you should be fine. You may want to look into a bike with floorboards. I've never ridden one, but the extra support for your foot might be good.
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Mar 16, 2010 15:29
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Doctor Zero posted:
That's excellent advice. The rear brake on floorboards is almost perfectly designed for pushing with your heel. Given Harley gearboxes, you usually have to jab the gear lever with your heel to get it to shift down anyway. 
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Mar 16, 2010 15:33
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I would prefer a tandem hand brake, but to each his own, I guess. There are tons of options.
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Mar 16, 2010 15:59
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| # ? May 21, 2024 13:42 |
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Weinertron posted:I have a very quick, very dumb question: I horribly damaged my right ankle a three years ago in a karting accident. I have a very limited range of motion, and it hurts like hell. I'm probably going to need to have it fused in the next few months. Your question reminds me of my late father's desire to get back on a motorcycle in his later years. Unfortunately he had some of the same issues as you have in that he had some problems with his feet. He was ready to rig all sorts of crap on a bike to get around his limitations but luckily my brother and I were able to help him accept that he had to give up riding by letting him try to ride our bikes. It sort of broke his heart, but it kept him alive a lot longer and he lived vicariously through his sons. My advice is to take the MSF and see how you do with your ankle. Motorcycling is dangerous and a very physical activity. Being limited physically raises the danger level quite a bit (IMHO) I work with a guy who had several cervical vertebrae fused and had lost the ability to turn his head. His father passed away and he inherited his dad's GoldWing. He insisted on riding it. I will tell you that watching him corner is one of the scariest things I've witnessed.
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Mar 16, 2010 16:07
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