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Phone posted:The torsen LSD helps if there is traction for both wheels. Ice. Clutch LSD is the best option here methinks.
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Mar 15, 2010 12:21
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Mine climbed a 15-ish degree ice-covered incline with almost no problem and it has summer tires on it. I did gt a bit of a run at it and peter out about halfway up, but that's where I was going anyway. Getting back down the hill was a blast, though. Let the coolant circulate so the engine warms up a bit(it hadn't sat long enough to completely cool off), crank the wheels all the way left and romp on first gear. just enough traction pad to get rolling forward and the rear end-end out and around. Slide sideways down the hill looking out the passenger-side window to see where you're going. I'd advise against that method if you haven't spent time sliding around in an icy parking lot, though.
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Mar 15, 2010 17:31
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Phone posted:The torsen LSD helps if there is traction for both wheels. 90% of the good 2WD winter cars have open diffs anyway. If you end up with that situation with a Torsen you can try to apply some parking brake and it should start engaging. When rebuilding my brakes I noticed one side was binding pretty bad. Which meant when we turn the car on (up in the air) and put it in first the other wheel spun. I decided to start pressing the foot brake, and sure enough power was transferred to the wheel with binding brake and the both spun together. I have a Torsen. Apparently a type 2 due to the year. What makes the Miata pretty good is 50/50 weight balance. Sudden Infant Deaf Syndrome winter drove an open diff car and as far as I know he didn't have any problems either.
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Mar 15, 2010 18:57
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Son of a gently caress. I just sold $500+ in misc parts from my wrecked Maxima yesterday. Today I went to order 2 sets of Azenis RT-615s for the miata. Guess what... discounttiredirect is out of them. So is vulcantire. Now my only option is buying $400 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Specs?  Edit: Tires are discontinued. The new RT-615Ks are $108/corner. Blaise fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Mar 16, 2010 |
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Mar 16, 2010 00:02
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You could do a lot worse (see: Azenis).
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Mar 16, 2010 00:04
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Blaise posted:Son of a gently caress. I just sold $500+ in misc parts from my wrecked Maxima yesterday. Today I went to order 2 sets of Azenis RT-615s for the miata. I dont know what size your wheels are but I just put Yokohama Parada Spec-2's on my Miata (16") and they are really great. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=Parada+Spec-2 $75 a piece, great in the rain and for a 300 treadwear tire they were awesome at the race track 2 weekends ago as well.
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Mar 16, 2010 08:33
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There is a $50 mail in rebate on the Z1s. They are awesome tires as well. http://www.tirerack.com/specialoffers/details.jsp?promoID=D015
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Mar 16, 2010 17:21
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aventari posted:I dont know what size your wheels are but I just put Yokohama Parada Spec-2's on my Miata (16") and they are really great. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=Parada+Spec-2 Stock wheels... 14x5.5.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:29
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Just so I'm sure, the little rubber bit that seals up the plug on these Bosch H4's doesnt work with the Miata, yeah? I cant see any way to fit it over the giant square plug, but it seems like something that shouldnt be left off.
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Mar 16, 2010 23:08
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Schwack posted:Just so I'm sure, the little rubber bit that seals up the plug on these Bosch H4's doesnt work with the Miata, yeah? I cant see any way to fit it over the giant square plug, but it seems like something that shouldnt be left off. At first I thought so too, but actually it does fit. You don't put it on the square plug, you assemble the h4 housing with the bulb, and then push the rubber boot over the bulb's base. You have to really push down so that the rubber is indented a little. You should then be able to connect the square plug to the 3 pins of the bulb without interference from the boot. e: look at step 8 http://calivw78.com/2008/05/03/h4-headlight-install Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 16, 2010 |
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Mar 16, 2010 23:39
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Yeah, I figured it out. I just kind of jammed the plug on over the top of them and they clicked down. Should have tried that before I posted, haha.
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Mar 17, 2010 00:11
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What size bolts are needed for the spare tire and jack hold-downs on an NB? I noticed yesterday while replacing brake lights that the bolt to hold the jack in place is missing and the one for the spare tire is completely the wrong size.  Probably explains the rattling that I thought was a loose heat shield.
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Mar 17, 2010 02:43
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Yesssss. My lights will be here Thursday! It's about loving time!
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Mar 17, 2010 02:54
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Previa_fun posted:What size bolts are needed for the spare tire and jack hold-downs on an NB? It is the same size as the pop-off threads on the discs. Isn't it like an M10 or M12 metric bolt?
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Mar 17, 2010 06:15
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Ziploc posted:What makes the Miata pretty good is 50/50 weight balance. Sudden Infant Deaf Syndrome winter drove an open diff car and as far as I know he didn't have any problems either. The only problem that pops up is when you get hung up in deep snow. Which happens a lot. 
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Mar 17, 2010 19:01
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:The only problem that pops up is when you get hung up in deep snow. Which happens a lot. Did you run winter tires? Because on some all-seasons (which usually did alright atleast in the wet) mine under-steered right into a median in only about a half inch of snow after only popping the clutch while going down a tiny slope exiting a parking lot and it bent the poo poo out of the lower left front control arm, but thats all. Brakes didn't do anything (no ABS) even though I pumped them, it happened so slowly but nothing I tried would change my direction. That sucked, and Ive never had a problem in the winter in any other vehicle with all seasons.
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Mar 17, 2010 20:45
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Brain Issues posted:Did you run winter tires? Because on some all-seasons (which usually did alright atleast in the wet) mine under-steered right into a median in only about a half inch of snow after only popping the clutch while going down a tiny slope exiting a parking lot and it bent the poo poo out of the lower left front control arm, but thats all. Brakes didn't do anything (no ABS) even though I pumped them, it happened so slowly but nothing I tried would change my direction. That sucked, and Ive never had a problem in the winter in any other vehicle with all seasons. FWIW (Ohio goon here), I ran summer tires (Yokohama AVS ES100) on my base NA (no power steering, no ABS), because I basically decided I wasn't going to buy winter tires until I actually managed to get myself stuck, or it got bad enough to where I honestly thought I wasn't going to be able to make it somewhere. We got quite a lot of snow this year, and I only got stuck-ish in my own driveway once, and was able to get myself out. I have a roughly 20 minute drive one way to work, and she never failed me, and if it was slick out, I just went 15-20mph the whole way home. Sucked going slow, but I didn't have any problems.
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Mar 17, 2010 21:22
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I had 7+ year old Michelin Alpins which did alright. I used all season MotoMasters this winter, and while we didn't get much snow, they worked alright. You just gotta know your limits and the conditions.
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Mar 17, 2010 21:38
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We got a bit of snow in MA this year (not as much as NY thank god) and I just have winter tires on the rear. Compared to last winter, my car may as well be a Subaru. In inches deep snow, as long as you didn't gun it like an idiot, the car would handle just fine.
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Mar 17, 2010 21:43
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Brain Issues posted:
You should have let off the brakes. Keeping the front wheels locked will make you not be able to steer. The trick is to straighten the wheels and let off the brakes then slowly as you can manage(without hitting what you're avoiding) steer away from it while applying gentle throttle and slipping the clutch. That'll give you a little bit of steering compounded with minor forward power which will let the front wheels grab traction and the rear wheels keep traction. You don't so much drive on ice as you gently guide the car around. Or swing wide and romp the gas pedal, but that's how you really gently caress stuff up. Looks cool though.
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Mar 17, 2010 22:00
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slid into a curb
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Brain Issues posted:Did you run winter tires? Because on some all-seasons (which usually did alright atleast in the wet) mine under-steered right into a median in only about a half inch of snow after only popping the clutch while going down a tiny slope exiting a parking lot and it bent the poo poo out of the lower left front control arm, but thats all. Brakes didn't do anything (no ABS) even though I pumped them, it happened so slowly but nothing I tried would change my direction. That sucked, and Ive never had a problem in the winter in any other vehicle with all seasons. Yeah, I had two year old random-brand tires I bought from a totaled Corolla or something that had the same lug pattern I needed. Winter King or something equally bad sounding. Worked just fine for what I needed.
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Mar 17, 2010 23:23
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Miatas kick rear end in snow. Took mine up to Taos a few weeks ago. Mine is lowered about 1.5". I had no problems exiting the Taos parking lot with fresh loose snow up to the door sill. With stock ride height you can go anywhere. All-seasons are a joke, get a decent set of snow tires. I found a set of brand new Michilin Arctic Alpins on craigslist for $100. If you are having traction problems, drop your tire pressure to 25psi. Still have problems, drop it to 15psi.
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Mar 17, 2010 23:38
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How bad are installing motor mounts in a (Mazdaspeed) Miata? Can it be done with just a jack and hand tools? What needs to be moved out of the way? Also, the mounts I have are identical, does this motor have two identical mounts or do I have duplicate parts?
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Mar 18, 2010 05:25
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revmoo posted:How bad are installing motor mounts in a (Mazdaspeed) Miata? Can it be done with just a jack and hand tools? What needs to be moved out of the way? They are identical. I know the shop switched mine in less than an hour. (Twice cause they put one in up side down.  )
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Mar 18, 2010 05:47
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revmoo posted:How bad are installing motor mounts in a (Mazdaspeed) Miata? Can it be done with just a jack and hand tools? What needs to be moved out of the way? The mounts are the same so you don't have a problem there. You can do it with a jack and hand tools, thats how I did mine, you might want a big bar or something incase you need to pry the engine in a certain direction but it can definently be done fairly easily.
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Mar 19, 2010 06:11
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New headlights are awesome! I haven't actually driven with them at night because after getting zero sleep and driving 300-ish miles today in an e350 I came home, changed them out and immediately went to bed. I did turn them on and have to wiggle the driver's side plug to get a solid connection, but other than that they are obviously better than the blob of light from the sealed beams. 
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Mar 19, 2010 08:28
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Just got word this week that my wife's '99 cavalier's chassis is too rusty to pass inspection. Somehow I manage to talk the wife into going to look at a '91 miata tomorrow to replace it until we pay off student loans and save for a more "family" oriented vehicle (we would still keep the miata, she figures we might as well get one now since I need to have one someday). We don't have any kids and rarely drive other people around, so I think now would be the time to do it. '91, 120k miles, 5spd (duh), DE car so there is no rust (brought back to PA last year, garaged since then) apparently. Within the last two months is has had: New paint, tires, "roll bar" (more like style bar, amiright), timing belt/water pump/front seals, and all fluids (including transmission/rear end) just changed. The guy is a mechanic and is pretty anal about his cars (So anal, in fact I asked him how long it took him to get to work from where he lives, he said "26 minutes"). He bought it for his wife but she doesn't like driving stick. Guy seems pretty cool, he originally bought the car for a monster miata swap (he just built a cobra kit car last year or something) but wants to get a '68 jag instead now. Has a TT supra in the stable to "pick up the kids from school" Price is $3500. I don't think it's unreasonable considering how well they hold their value and the new paint and tires and other maintenance. Do you think I could reasonably get him down to $3200 or so? He said he's in no hurry to sell so he's not going to give it away. Thoughts/comments?
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Mar 19, 2010 13:44
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I was able to find a 2000 LS with 125k for $4500, but Miata prices are ridiculous and vary by market.
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Mar 19, 2010 16:57
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crutt posted:I was able to find a 2000 LS with 125k for $4500, but Miata prices are ridiculous and vary by market. It seems to vary quite a bit, but I rarely see a 'cheap' miata local. This one is eerily similar to what I'm looking at tomorrow, almost same mileage, price, and new paint but they're asking $4100 which I'd consider high. http://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/1649101011.html Worse condition, higher miles $3195 http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/1646620142.html So I guess I'd consider it a reasonable starting price. If I could get it for $3200 or $3300 I would be happy.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:00
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dreesemonkey posted:It seems to vary quite a bit, but I rarely see a 'cheap' miata local. This one is eerily similar to what I'm looking at tomorrow, almost same mileage, price, and new paint but they're asking $4100 which I'd consider high. I keep tabs on NAs in Boston (just for the hell of it I tell myself). Here's a 98 with the same mileage as you were looking at: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/1647514322.html Not sure if it'd be worth the flight/roadtrip. Guy said the belt and pump were done, but the top has pinholes in it, and asked $3000 firm.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:52
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There are no 98 Miatas 
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Mar 19, 2010 18:53
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Yeah I assume it's a 97, but can't know for sure without a VIN.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:55
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Phone posted:There are no 98 Miatas Just because they were the exact same as the 97 doesn't mean the VIN won't pull up as a 98. It also doesn't mean that the dealer who sold it didn't sell it as a 98.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:42
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Just because they were the exact same as the 97 doesn't mean the VIN won't pull up as a 98. It also doesn't mean that the dealer who sold it didn't sell it as a 98. Considering the year gets a specific character in the VIN, and there are no Miatas in the US with a "W" for a year...there are no 1998 Miatas in the US. Maybe in other countries where the year you sell it determines the year of the car, but not in the US. My '99 is as close as as it gets to a '98, and even has a build date of 3/98, but that 10th digit is X. And yes, Miata prices are ridiculous. All but the rattiest NAs seem to be able to still get over $3k, even early 1.6L cars, and yet the NB pricing has dropped to be barely over the price of those NAs.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:And yes, Miata prices are ridiculous. All but the rattiest NAs seem to be able to still get over $3k, even early 1.6L cars, and yet the NB pricing has dropped to be barely over the price of those NAs. For me, in terms of styling, the NB is like the 996 of Miatas. I just don't like that front end.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:04
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Funny, I didn't think anyone preferred the looks of the NA. Chrome door handles and funky lights, no thanks.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:19
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I like my barn-door headlights, thanks. the door handles I could take or leave. I might see about painting them to match the rest of the car.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:23
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One thing I really don't care for about the door handles is when you lock and have to hold the handle "up" to have them lock. Feels like you're going to slice your finger off.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:41
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I don't lock my doors, I've only got a soft-top and would rather have someone steal all my turnpike toll change than have to buy a new top.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:48
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| # ? May 15, 2024 15:18 |
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dreesemonkey posted:One thing I really don't care for about the door handles is when you lock and have to hold the handle "up" to have them lock. Feels like you're going to slice your finger off. You can change that by bending a tab inside the door on the lock.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:58
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