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Sit with your crotch up against the tank, because as soon as you brake hard its going to be there anyway. I'll move around if I'm on the highway or something, but for stop and go traffic and twisty roads, its crotch-on-tank all the way
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Mar 19, 2010 14:55
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Thanks Z3n. The ride this morning was a bit smoother, so maybe it was some crosswind action or something yesterday. Might take it to the dealer and have them take a ride on it anyway. It could also just be you adjusting to the feel of a new bike. Are the rear shocks blown on your other bike? Do you have a multimeter and a wiring diagram? That's what you need to start diagnosing electrical systems. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:For aggressive riding you generally want to be sitting up against the tank to be as connected to the bike as possible. The only exception to this is that sometimes people like scooting backwards on the exits of corners to put more weight on the rear wheel, but I don't know how effective that is at maintaining rear traction. Actually, it's usually the reverse for aggressive riding...You hold yourself back off the tank under hard braking to keep the rear wheel from lifting, and then you move forward under acceleration to keep weight over the front and to keep the front from lifting. For the street, though, it's whatever is most comfortable. Some people fit a given sportbike really well. I know a guy who commutes on a 749 and has racked up over 60k on it, for me that bike is like sitting on a bar stool while eating at a table for midgets. I hurt riding 2 miles up and down a twisty road. Gnomad posted:I4's all seem to have a "resonance" where they buzz and throb and generally make your teeth itch. Balance shafts help but they don't work at every RPM range. My S3 T595 was pretty vibey, but I think that bike was about 30 seconds from ejecting a conrod.
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Mar 19, 2010 16:33
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I too like nuts against the tank for riding but if I get on a more relaxed pace I tend to scoot a tiny bit back and ride with my left hand on my left thigh. Gives my back a bit of a rest.
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Mar 19, 2010 17:10
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If it's cold, I ride with my hand cupping my nuts. Hand warms nuts. Tank blocks wind from hitting my hand.
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Mar 19, 2010 18:24
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I cup my nuts whenever I'm walking around in riding gear, regardless of temperature.
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Mar 19, 2010 19:18
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Z3n posted:It could also just be you adjusting to the feel of a new bike. Are the rear shocks blown on your other bike? I actually sat down and read the owners manual for the first time last night, and it says that for the first 1k miles I am not supposed to give it more than half throttle. Yeah...that didn't happen. Since I backed off the throttle a bit and let it get speed more gradually, the ride seems to be smoother. I have the diagram and the multimeter, so I guess it is back to testing.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:04
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:I actually sat down and read the owners manual for the first time last night, and it says that for the first 1k miles I am not supposed to give it more than half throttle. Yeah...that didn't happen. Since I backed off the throttle a bit and let it get speed more gradually, the ride seems to be smoother. Yeah, honestly, I'm not exactly sure how you're supposed to break in a motorcycle when you can't ride the drat thing. I'd just make sure it's warmed up, and try to avoid sitting at the same RPM for extended periods of time. Just my 2c though. You should be able to trace the power through to the coils...check the terminals at the coils against ground with the key on and the bike ready to go.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:13
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Z3n posted:Yeah, honestly, I'm not exactly sure how you're supposed to break in a motorcycle when you can't ride the drat thing. I'd just make sure it's warmed up, and try to avoid sitting at the same RPM for extended periods of time. Just my 2c though. I used to obsess about the break in of my bikes. When I bought the KTM I rode the poo poo out of it for the first 100 miles. Changed the oil. Continued to ride the poo poo out of it, changed the oil at 500. Again at 1000. I just never stopped riding it to death. Almost 7k miles later, it runs great, no issues, oil always looks good. Just don't hang out at one RPM for long periods of time, or at least I tried to avoid doing so in the first few hundred miles.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:21
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laymil posted:I rode from NJ to Atlanta without syncing the carbs and had started to lose feeling in my right toes because of it. True story, Last spring I spent 2 or so weeks riding around out west on my ninja 250. When I got back I couldn't feel my thumb and first two fingers on my right hand for about 2 weeks, that's when I went to the doc, and got a prescription.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:45
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RichBomb posted:I have an automatic cam chain tensioner, unless you turn the release with a screwdriver the plunger/tension rod doesn't move at all. Is this right? Do I install and turn the screw to get dynamic tension? The manual says it should move freely without binding so I'm suspicious it's screwed up.
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Mar 20, 2010 02:18
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If it's like the auto tensioner on my Vulcan, the shaft (hehe) is "ratcheted", meaning it can push out but not be pushed back in. When you take it off the bike, there is no force pushing against the shaft and the spring will push it out all the way. From what I gathered from the manual (mine was slightly different than in the manual), you put the tensioner on with a screwdriver in there preventing the shaft from extending until the whole thing is assembled, then release the spring. It will push against the chain with the proper force and chain will prevent it from extending all the way. I'm assuming with yours, you would put it on, relax the tension so the cam chain can push the shaft in, then release the tension so the shaft and chain can come to an equilibrium.
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Mar 20, 2010 03:03
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RichBomb posted:Can you take a picture of it? They're all a little different. I only have experience with the type that Uthor talks about.
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Mar 20, 2010 06:39
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So now that most new bikes these days come with fuel injection, will there be a time very soon when we'll start seeing direct injection engines in motorcycles like in cars? Seems to be the next logical progression, improved power, fuel economy, and they should sound awesome?
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Mar 20, 2010 07:44
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:I actually sat down and read the owners manual for the first time last night, and it says that for the first 1k miles I am not supposed to give it more than half throttle. Yeah...that didn't happen. Since I backed off the throttle a bit and let it get speed more gradually, the ride seems to be smoother. It seems a lot of early 80's Hondas had problems with the crank or cam sensors going bad causing no spark conditions. I had a Nighthawk 450 with the same issue. After checking god damned everything I could think of I talked to my Goldwing buddies who told me the early 80's Wings liked to poo poo those sensors. I figured screw it, I'll toss some parts at it. Luckily it worked.
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Mar 20, 2010 20:55
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So I was finally able to complete a 25 mile ride without my bike dying on me, which I take as a success. But after about 30 minutes my index and middle finger on my throttle hand had been vibrated dead and I couldn't feel anything in them. But my left hand and ring/pinkie on my right were fine. Anyone know a way to reduce vibration through the throttle/handlebars?
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Mar 20, 2010 21:11
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TiberiusM posted:So I was finally able to complete a 25 mile ride without my bike dying on me, which I take as a success. read through the previous page.
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Mar 20, 2010 23:31
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TiberiusM posted:So I was finally able to complete a 25 mile ride without my bike dying on me, which I take as a success. Loosen up a little bit. I only had dead hand vibrations after 2 weeks at nearly full throttle for 8~ hours a day.
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Mar 20, 2010 23:38
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quoted from two pages ago or sohayden. posted:My 1995 KLR 650 was having problems idling. I took the carb out today and sprayed the gently caress out of it with carb cleaner. I spent another hour just getting the loving thing back in. It honestly took me at least 3 times taking the carb out/cleaning/reinstalling. It ran fine when I put it away, I think. It makes me nervous now to go up and get it out of storage. 
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Mar 21, 2010 00:19
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infraboy posted:So now that most new bikes these days come with fuel injection, will there be a time very soon when we'll start seeing direct injection engines in motorcycles like in cars? Seems to be the next logical progression, improved power, fuel economy, and they should sound awesome? Snowmobiles and outboards are using some 2 cycle direct injection, successfully making big power and improving fuel economy. Trying to make them pass emissions on a street bike might take some time but if BRP/Rotax wants do, they could do it. Putting this in a bike would be compleatly batshit. 150 HP! http://www.supertraxmag.com/article.asp?nid=1571
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Mar 21, 2010 04:40
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infraboy posted:So now that most new bikes these days come with fuel injection, will there be a time very soon when we'll start seeing direct injection engines in motorcycles like in cars? Seems to be the next logical progression, improved power, fuel economy, and they should sound awesome? Yamaha was reputedly working on it for MotoGP but struggling with it. So if they can't get it right yet (Yamaha does a lot of automotive enginerring, including direct injection), it's while off. Like a lot of car tech, getting it to work on bikes is most likely an issue of trying to get it to work at high-rpm.
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Mar 21, 2010 14:10
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infraboy posted:So now that most new bikes these days come with fuel injection, will there be a time very soon when we'll start seeing direct injection engines in motorcycles like in cars? Seems to be the next logical progression, improved power, fuel economy, and they should sound awesome? Motorcycles seem to stay a ways back from the car world, technology-wise, but they push the technology that they do use a whole lot further.
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Mar 22, 2010 00:44
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So I haven't done valves yet and the 250 is at 10,xxx miles. Any bets on how long until the engine explodes spectacularly in a blaze of glory?
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Mar 22, 2010 00:51
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-Inu- posted:So I haven't done valves yet and the 250 is at 10,xxx miles. Any bets on how long until the engine explodes spectacularly in a blaze of glory? The bike will very likely start running like poo poo well before the valve clearances get out-of-spec enough to cause real damage.
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Mar 22, 2010 05:03
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-Inu- posted:So I haven't done valves yet and the 250 is at 10,xxx miles. Any bets on how long until the engine explodes spectacularly in a blaze of glory? Does that year of 250 use shim under bucket or the screw adjustable type?
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Mar 22, 2010 05:13
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Shims and buckets I do believe.
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Mar 22, 2010 05:25
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-Inu- posted:Shims and buckets I do believe. The adjustment interval should be covered in the owner's manual...checking them is pretty easy, it's the adjustment that's harder.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:16
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Haha yeah they're supposed to be done every 6k, I've just been too lazy/cheap to do it. I've got a buddy who will do it for around $150, think it's worth that to save the time and hassle? I don't have a proper toolbox to do it myself but I suppose for that price I could pick up a decent set of applicable stuff.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:27
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-Inu- posted:Haha yeah they're supposed to be done every 6k, I've just been too lazy/cheap to do it. I've got a buddy who will do it for around $150, think it's worth that to save the time and hassle? I don't have a proper toolbox to do it myself but I suppose for that price I could pick up a decent set of applicable stuff. I'd at least check it myself. That won't require too many tools. Then if needed, have your friend drop by and do the actual adjustment. It's best to have someone experienced to watch over the first time you do something. Maybe you can bribe him with beer to just watch/help?
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Mar 22, 2010 06:41
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A check does not automatically mean you need to adjust them. Shim and buckets tend to stay in range until you either roll up big miles and the valves start receding into the heads or your chambers are getting really gunked up and the valves aren't closing all the way. Of all the bikes I've owned over the years with shim/buckets, I think I've swapped out 3 shims total.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:42
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Gnomad posted:A check does not automatically mean you need to adjust them. Shim and buckets tend to stay in range until you either roll up big miles and the valves start receding into the heads or your chambers are getting really gunked up and the valves aren't closing all the way. Of all the bikes I've owned over the years with shim/buckets, I think I've swapped out 3 shims total. Lucky bastard! I've got my own 7.48 shim set for adjusting them.  I've done them on all of my SVs, my E once, and the bikes of friends.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:43
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Just to needle you further then, those shims were on Triumph. The shims were the same size as ones used on some Hondas so I went to the shop, where the parts guy tells me he'll swap my shims for his for $2.50 each. IIRC, the Triumph shop wanted $12 per shim.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:53
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Gnomad posted:Of all the bikes I've owned over the years with shim/buckets, I think I've swapped out 3 shims total. Thats good news because I've been avoiding the valves on my bike for a year now mainly because of what a pain in the rear end it will be if they need adjustment. They do sound nice and loose right now anyways.
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Mar 22, 2010 12:08
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Z3n posted:I'd at least check it myself. That won't require too many tools. Then if needed, have your friend drop by and do the actual adjustment. It's best to have someone experienced to watch over the first time you do something. Maybe you can bribe him with beer to just watch/help?
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Mar 22, 2010 14:13
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8ender posted:Thats good news because I've been avoiding the valves on my bike for a year now mainly because of what a pain in the rear end it will be if they need adjustment. They do sound nice and loose right now anyways. slappy valves are happy valves!
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Mar 22, 2010 14:26
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TiberiusM posted:So I was finally able to complete a 25 mile ride without my bike dying on me, which I take as a success. 1. Ease up on your death grip. 2. Get gloves with padding in the palms.
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Mar 22, 2010 15:50
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Doctor Zero posted:1. Ease up on your death grip. I didn't think I had a death grip, but maybe I did, it was my first time riding in fairly windy conditions. Padding is a good idea.
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Mar 22, 2010 15:52
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Gnomad posted:Just to needle you further then, those shims were on Triumph. The shims were the same size as ones used on some Hondas so I went to the shop, where the parts guy tells me he'll swap my shims for his for $2.50 each. IIRC, the Triumph shop wanted $12 per shim. God, I'd forgotten that I adjusted the valves on my T595. Shim over bucket, turn the engine via the rear wheel.  Thankfully, the tool was only ~30$ online, and I got a stack of shims from a friend who had blown his T595 motor. And I need to get into the ZZR, I can almost promise that those are out too. 8ender posted:Thats good news because I've been avoiding the valves on my bike for a year now mainly because of what a pain in the rear end it will be if they need adjustment. They do sound nice and loose right now anyways. I'd at least check them. Then you can know if it needs it or not, and checking them is pretty easy. Doctor Zero posted:1. Ease up on your death grip. Excellent advice. Doc Wong, who puts on riding clinics in the Bay Area, always says that you should hold on to the handlebars like there is rice paper between your hands and the bars. You should, essentially, be able to lift your hands off the bars at any time. (Obviously, you have to hold on to the throttle, but if you can't remove your left hand from the bars at any point, including midcorner, you are not light enough on the bars).
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Mar 22, 2010 16:26
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Are shims that much of a PITA? I have screw adjusters on my bike and it's definitely harder to remove the tank, drain all the coolant, remove a half dozen hoses, and then angle the valve cover just so to clear both the engine and the frame (takes at least three tries every time I do it), than it is to turn eight screws and jam nuts. If I'm checking the clearance, I'm adjusting it.
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Mar 22, 2010 17:16
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Uthor posted:Are shims that much of a PITA? I have screw adjusters on my bike and it's definitely harder to remove the tank, drain all the coolant, remove a half dozen hoses, and then angle the valve cover just so to clear both the engine and the frame (takes at least three tries every time I do it), than it is to turn eight screws and jam nuts. If I'm checking the clearance, I'm adjusting it. The only problem with shims is you don't know what size you need. In my case, I don't have any shims on hand, so I have to do a clearance check, then order the shims, wait for them to arrive, then install them. Removing them from the buckets can be a hassle sometimes too, but its not that bad. Screw adjusters you can adjust then and there and be on your merry way.
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Mar 22, 2010 17:23
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I have an aftermarket 8-wire rectifier that I have to wire into my 5-wire harness for a 1994 CBR600F2. Pictures here: http://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106975&page=2 The guy I bought the R/R from gave me the doubled-up red and green wires to put into the connectors for the harness side and solder onto the existing wires. Here's my problem. There's a black wire that goes into the R/R, and it is not one of the 5 wires that originally plugged into the stock R/R. On the wiring diagram, it lists one of the two green grounding wires that ground out into the mounting bracket as Gr/Bl, so I'm guessing one is the black wire. How do I know which one it is? And do I just splice the grounding wire into both the bracket AND the R/R? That doesn't seem to make sense. The guy that sold me the R/R calls it the "main switched power lead." The R/R I bought is linked here: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html - bottom of the page. For reference, I thought I wired it up correctly last week, but apparently didn't, because my battery cooked while riding and it smelled like bad eggs. It got a charge, it was just way too much charge. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Mar 22, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 17:25
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