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PM is fixed, planetary alignment or something.
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Mar 21, 2010 07:49
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Somehow after being transported on the back of a truck for 3,000 miles, my Miata is squeaky as hell. It's most probably the soft top, but I did put it down yesterday and it squeaked a little bit (wtf) but not as bad as with the top up, which sounds like a bunch of rats loving in a barrel. So what can I do to diagnose and get rid of the sqeaks?
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Mar 21, 2010 17:09
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Atomizer posted:How do you miss 3rd gear? Phone went straight for Top Gear  I did the same thing yesterday... and also every once in a while. I filled the turret up last summer after cleaning it out, but I'm a cheap, lazy fucktard and just put the somewhat torn old boots back on. So now, I'm pretty sure what oil I had in the turret is sloshed out by now... In my case, though, the springs that push the shifter into center position are all but shot. So it's not terribly difficult, when shifting quickly, to go from 2nd to 5th... it doesn't happen often, but it does happen from time to time.
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Mar 21, 2010 18:08
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I don't do 2->5, I'm going for 3rd. I think it's me just trying to go too fast sometimes.
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Mar 21, 2010 18:09
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I do 2-5. Only on a warm motor and when my acceleration is going to be cut short from some fucker pulling in front of me.
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Mar 21, 2010 18:16
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Well I'm buying the miata. It's a '91, 122k, 5spd. Overall it's in pretty good shape. The paint is new, though hardly a perfect job (I spotted a bit of overspray, etc). Since it was a DE car, there is no rust anywhere. I got to see it on a lift and there isn't even any surface rust on the bottom anywhere. It seems to drive tight, the engine revved well and there weren't and it was nice and smooth. Has 4 new bleh tires on it (general or something). The timing belt, water pump, cam seals and crank seal were just done. All fluids just changed, including diff, tranny, coolant. The "bad" is the top sucks. There are some holes in the top, for the time being I'm going to get some black duct tape and heat gun them up to try and seal them up a little. My friend went all winter like this so I should be ok for a little while. I don't mind buying the top, but I hear they are a bitch and a half to put on. I think I overpaid a bit ($3200), but it's time that they're going to start selling well again and it's a fair market price (or would have been assuming the top was in good shape). As a bonus when we get a practical car for my wife in a year or so at least I already have a miata so I don't have to worry about trying to get one later  Wednesday I'll be a part of the miata army!
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Mar 21, 2010 18:26
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I got a top and frame for $600 from a guy in New Hampshire who tears through Miata's to make racecars (and otherwise buys parts cars from insurance companies etc).... It took a total of maybe four hours; getting the old top off when you're not used to it takes three, and getting the new on on takes one. I'd recommend that route over buying the top and stretching it over the frame, if only because I've heard nothing but horrible horrible things about that.
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Mar 22, 2010 00:10
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Phatty Slayer posted:Okay for the sake of deconfliction you need the bezels, not the screws that hold on the deflectors right? I need the bezels and bezel screws, but hold off a couple days actually. My fiancee's dad decided not to be a dick and is going to try to get them off for me. I'm related to like three mechanics and they all try to shift me off onto each other. I'll post again in a couple days if I still need 'em.
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Mar 22, 2010 00:39
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Shlomo Palestein posted:I got a top and frame for $600 from a guy in New Hampshire who tears through Miata's to make racecars (and otherwise buys parts cars from insurance companies etc).... It took a total of maybe four hours; getting the old top off when you're not used to it takes three, and getting the new on on takes one. I'd recommend that route over buying the top and stretching it over the frame, if only because I've heard nothing but horrible horrible things about that. Putting on a new non zippered plastic window top is insanely easy (no listings or whatever the gently caress from the DIY on miata.net) and they're the cheapest. I've never done one of the fancier varieties though.
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Mar 22, 2010 00:51
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mobn posted:I need the bezels and bezel screws, but hold off a couple days actually. My fiancee's dad decided not to be a dick and is going to try to get them off for me. I'm related to like three mechanics and they all try to shift me off onto each other. I'll post again in a couple days if I still need 'em. Alright, Red 2 standing by. If anyone else needs little parts or whatever and is not local to Salt Lake lovely please let me know.
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Mar 22, 2010 03:14
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What do you guys mean by the turret? I'd like to replace all the fluids in my 99, and i would just guess there is the tranny and diff to do after the oil. Am I wrong?
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Mar 22, 2010 06:02
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The turret is the top of the transmission where the shift lever goes in and moves along a groove that mirrors your shift pattern.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:08
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aventari posted:What do you guys mean by the turret? I'd like to replace all the fluids in my 99, and i would just guess there is the tranny and diff to do after the oil. Am I wrong? Theres a little bit on the top of the transmission that has a tiny amount of transmission fluid in it. Heres a mnet post: http://www.miata.net/garage/trans/everything.html The turret stuff is toward the bottom and its very easy to do.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:13
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I'm putting in a replacement 5 speed I found cheap to replace my 160k mile leaky trans. I need to find a new clutch rather than reuse the old one, will the "value" clutch from mazda hold up to autox abuse or should I go with something better? No power mods planned, just the stock 1.6. Here is what I'm talking about : http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1
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Mar 22, 2010 14:09
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beatdown posted:I'm putting in a replacement 5 speed I found cheap to replace my 160k mile leaky trans. I need to find a new clutch rather than reuse the old one, will the "value" clutch from mazda hold up to autox abuse or should I go with something better? No power mods planned, just the stock 1.6. Here is what I'm talking about : Unless you have FI planned in the future, the value kit from Mazda is just fine... Especially for a 1.6L. Unless you want to spend a few hundred dollars more for something like FM's Happy Meal kits or something like that, but really, if you're not going Turbo or SuperCharger, there's really no need for anything beyond stock...
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Mar 22, 2010 15:47
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Tactical Bonnet posted:The turret is the top of the transmission where the shift lever goes in and moves along a groove that mirrors your shift pattern. Not if it's a 6 speed.
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Mar 22, 2010 17:10
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Well mine's a 5 speed and I don't give a gently caress about the others. 
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Mar 22, 2010 17:36
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TO DO over next week. 1. Finally get Megasquirt running 2. Install AEM Uego 3. Install 1.8 brakes 4. Possibly pick up a set of 2003 Shinsen seats on the cheap 
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Mar 22, 2010 18:11
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My friend just sent me a set of front brake brackets from a 1.8 miata for my '92. I was gonna put the larger rotors and HPS pads on the front only.... no reason this would be any issue on the street, right? I wouldn't think so, and it seemed silly not to do it since the pads/rotors are the same price and the brackets were $20.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:52
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Blaise posted:My friend just sent me a set of front brake brackets from a 1.8 miata for my '92. I was gonna put the larger rotors and HPS pads on the front only.... no reason this would be any issue on the street, right? I wouldn't think so, and it seemed silly not to do it since the pads/rotors are the same price and the brackets were $20. destructo fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Mar 22, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 23:14
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destructo posted:Nope! Can't see why not. Just remember that the right bracket goes on the opposite side wheel, and vice versa. I assume these still clear the 14" daisies? Same caliper just larger rotor?
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Mar 23, 2010 02:15
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dreesemonkey posted:I assume these still clear the 14" daisies? Same caliper just larger rotor?
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Mar 23, 2010 02:48
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destructo posted:Yep, they'll fit, no more 13" wheels though. 13" Lensos will still fit no?
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Mar 23, 2010 05:37
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So I've got an issue. Lately my transmission has been getting stuck in reverse. The clutch seems to be stuck, and holds it into gear. I cannot force it out of reverse, and I get very minimum response from the clutch pedal. Only when I shut the car off and let the clutch out will it begin to work right. This has only started as of the other day, and it's only reverse that does it. I've been told it's probably the clutch itself, but I thought I'd ask here since I could get a better response and recommended solutions.
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Mar 23, 2010 16:17
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Mezmerized Machine posted:So I've got an issue. Lately my transmission has been getting stuck in reverse. The clutch seems to be stuck, and holds it into gear. I cannot force it out of reverse, and I get very minimum response from the clutch pedal. Only when I shut the car off and let the clutch out will it begin to work right. This has only started as of the other day, and it's only reverse that does it.
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Mar 23, 2010 16:19
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destructo posted:If it makes a difference if you pump the pedal three or four times before you shift, it's either the slave/master cylinder. I doubt it's the clutch. Check your clutch fluid, chances are it's leaking all over the slave cylinder boot. Well just checked under the hood. Fluid is fine and no sign of leaking anywhere there. Gonna go driving here soon, I'll try pumping it if it sticks again.
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Mar 23, 2010 16:38
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Mezmerized Machine posted:Well just checked under the hood. Fluid is fine and no sign of leaking anywhere there. Gonna go driving here soon, I'll try pumping it if it sticks again. The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission, under the car. Master cylinder is under the hood. Edit: http://www.miata.net/garage/slavecyl.html It fails quite often.
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Mar 23, 2010 16:47
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Brain Issues posted:The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission, under the car. Master cylinder is under the hood. It's also so easy to do that it should just be 60k maintenance 
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Mar 23, 2010 16:49
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http://www.miata.net/garage/stuckreverse.html This sounds applicable. EDIT: Not really actually. It doesn't sound like a slave cylinder though.
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Mar 23, 2010 16:50
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Brain Issues posted:The slave cylinder is on the side of the transmission, under the car. Master cylinder is under the hood. But if it were the cylinder leaking, wouldn't I have an empty reservoir under the hood?
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Mar 23, 2010 18:07
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Mezmerized Machine posted:But if it were the cylinder leaking, wouldn't I have an empty reservoir under the hood? Not if it's leaking internally... my maxima had it's master cylinder fail and it never lost any fluid... the piston just let the fluid go from one side to another.
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Mar 23, 2010 18:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's also so easy to do that it should just be 60k maintenance Ziploc posted:http://www.miata.net/garage/stuckreverse.html Mezmerized Machine posted:But if it were the cylinder leaking, wouldn't I have an empty reservoir under the hood? Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 19:10
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I was told to never come to a stop, even with the clutch in, with the gear shift in 5th as it can cause the stuck in reverse problem. Reading the field repair doesn't sound like it's much fun.
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Mar 23, 2010 19:29
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I'm pretty sure that problem was solved by '91.
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Mar 23, 2010 19:31
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So what suspension setup is the "go to" lately? I'm interested in something for mostly street, better handling and a bit lower as the car sits too high as it is. Also-does anyone know a good place to source OEM wheels? I'm running on 3 oem wheels and a lovely aftermarket one. I don't think I'm ready to buy a full new set of wheels yet. Oh this is all for a fantastically orange (ugh) 2000 edit: Suspension maybe around $800 at the most crutt fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 21:06
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How much do you want to spend? Craigslist for OEM wheels.
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Mar 23, 2010 21:19
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crutt posted:edit: Suspension maybe around $800 at the most In that price range, I think Tokico Illuminas and FM springs are probably a decent bet.
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Mar 23, 2010 21:31
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o hay. It's that time of year again. 
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Mar 23, 2010 21:59
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crutt posted:So what suspension setup is the "go to" lately? I'm interested in something for mostly street, better handling and a bit lower as the car sits too high as it is. Also-does anyone know a good place to source OEM wheels? I'm running on 3 oem wheels and a lovely aftermarket one. I don't think I'm ready to buy a full new set of wheels yet. Oh this is all for a fantastically orange (ugh) 2000 gently caress you buddy, Evo Orange is a drat fine color. drat fine...
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Mar 23, 2010 22:05
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crutt posted:So what suspension setup is the "go to" lately? I'm interested in something for mostly street, better handling and a bit lower as the car sits too high as it is. Also-does anyone know a good place to source OEM wheels? I'm running on 3 oem wheels and a lovely aftermarket one. I don't think I'm ready to buy a full new set of wheels yet. Oh this is all for a fantastically orange (ugh) 2000 I'm also searching for some OEM wheels, I think we're stuck just waiting on Craigslist. Good luck finding some 15" ones, or would you be OK with 14s?
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Mar 23, 2010 22:13
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