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Uthor posted:Are shims that much of a PITA? I have screw adjusters on my bike and it's definitely harder to remove the tank, drain all the coolant, remove a half dozen hoses, and then angle the valve cover just so to clear both the engine and the frame (takes at least three tries every time I do it), than it is to turn eight screws and jam nuts. If I'm checking the clearance, I'm adjusting it. You also have to pull the cams to do shim under bucket types. Some bikes run a shim over bucket setup, where you get a special tool that holds down the edge of the valve bucket so that you can pop out the shim. And on I4s, the cams are always under tension from at least one set of valves, so you have to remove the cam camp bolts one turn at a time to prevent them from snapping the covers. And if you get it out of timing, you have to do the entire routine over again.  So, yeah. It's not the shims that are so much of a pain in the rear end (hint, it's worth it to spend the 80$ on a shim kit), but that everything surrounding them is a pain in the rear end.
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Mar 22, 2010 17:31
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I have an aftermarket 8-wire rectifier that I have to wire into my 5-wire harness for a 1994 CBR600F2. Pictures here: http://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106975&page=2 Update to this: Seller told me the following when I asked about the black wire. "If you can't find the black wire, find main power wire from the ignition switch that has power when the ignition is on and connect it to that." Still confused. Main power wire from the ignition switch?
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Mar 22, 2010 18:54
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Do we have a thread or list of where members are located to get together with other local goons? (updated for this year) I moved to Denver, the riding season is ready to start, and would like to meet up with some more riders. edit: looks like someone started a thread just for this. Shanky fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 23:18
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Z3n posted:You also have to pull the cams to do shim under bucket types. Some bikes run a shim over bucket setup, where you get a special tool that holds down the edge of the valve bucket so that you can pop out the shim. Gah. There's my next project for my bike. NOT looking forward to that. Luckily I'm over bucket.
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Mar 22, 2010 23:41
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ari.gato posted:Gah. There's my next project for my bike. NOT looking forward to that. Luckily I'm over bucket. Just did my valve check today on my GS with a shim over bucket system. Zen mentioned a special tool, but you don't really need it. I used a folded over ziptie (flattened it with some visegrips). Its easy! 1. Rotate the engine until your valve (the one you're trying to check) is DOWN, insert the ziptie through the spark plug hole so it sits inbetween the top of the valve and the top of the cylinder. 2. Keep rotating the engine so that the valve closes, except since theres a ziptie in between the valve and cylinder head, it wont close entirely, which leaves you enough room between the cam to pull out the shim. Most importantly, DONT DROP THE ZIP TIE! Tie a string or wrap some tape around the end, so if you do drop it, it doesn't fall all the way into the cylinder. That would be bad.
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Mar 23, 2010 01:41
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TiberiusM posted:Most importantly, DONT DROP THE ZIP TIE! Tie a string or wrap some tape around the end, so if you do drop it, it doesn't fall all the way into the cylinder. That would be bad. I think I'll pick up the valve adjustment tool for my bike. It's $20 I'd gladly spend not to have to worry about dropping things into my cylinder. But thanks for the rest of that info. Now to find a shim kit.
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Mar 23, 2010 01:44
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I'm not sure what was going through the DPO's mind, but every shim on the Z1 is a 245. Every one. They don't even come from the factory with all the same shim sizes!
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Mar 23, 2010 03:08
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Thats ok, I don't think my shims were ever changed! With 33k miles on the engine. They were all out of spec. Now I'm afraid my valves are done for. (Cylinder 1 has an oily spark plug, I'm hoping thats from my recent oil change or something, cause I really don't want to pull the head)
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Mar 23, 2010 03:21
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Gnomad posted:I'm not sure what was going through the DPO's mind, but every shim on the Z1 is a 245. Every one. They don't even come from the factory with all the same shim sizes! I've seen them come with mostly the same sizes before, but all the same? Did he just particularly like 2.45? 
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Mar 23, 2010 04:41
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Shanky posted:Do we have a thread or list of where members are located to get together with other local goons? (updated for this year) Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 23:48
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Any ideas where I can track down a factory service manual or clymers for a 2006 Zx-6r 636? Are the factory manuals any good? I know on cars they are my best friend.
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Mar 25, 2010 18:36
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sw0cb posted:Any ideas where I can track down a factory service manual or clymers for a 2006 Zx-6r 636? Are the factory manuals any good? I know on cars they are my best friend. There will be plenty of sites like Amazon that have the Clymer/Haynes manual for your bike. Factory might be a bit more tricky to get to. As for the differences: I find that my Haynes manual for my CBR600F2 is more user-friendly. It has difficulty ratings for everything, good pictures and diagrams, and is fairly thorough. On the other hand, my factory manual is also good because it's OEM produced by Honda, so you know it's 100% accurate. It may not be as verbose as the Haynes/Clymer alternative but you also know there's no bullshit in it and if you follow the steps they give you, you'll be good. Ideally, you'd want both. Otherwise, analyze your own skill level and see what manual best suits that.
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Mar 25, 2010 18:39
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sw0cb posted:Any ideas where I can track down a factory service manual or clymers for a 2006 Zx-6r 636? Are the factory manuals any good? I know on cars they are my best friend. http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/2006/34/0/18423 Factory manuals don't pull any punches when it comes to mechanical experience, since they're intended for knowledgeable mechanics, home-based or otherwise. However, they cover more than everything you will ever need to know about your bike. edit: That site is fantastic for finding compatible tools and rebuild kits too, especially for older bikes. And you can order an entire microfiche catalog of your bike for like $15. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 18:40
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Postin like a fiend. Does anyone have an easy method of compressing brake pistons for putting on new pads? There's still a good half inch of travel that I can't move at all. edit: I already took off the MC cover so some of the fluid could drain out, so that's not what's stopping it. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 23:14
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Push like a motherfucker. I've never had to do more than that.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:15
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Old pads in, long
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Mar 25, 2010 23:21
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C clamps.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:34
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sw0cb posted:Any ideas where I can track down a factory service manual or clymers for a 2006 Zx-6r 636? Are the factory manuals any good? I know on cars they are my best friend. When I get home I'll post em up. I have the service, owner and parts manuals for 05-06.
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Mar 25, 2010 23:45
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Gnaghi posted:When I get home I'll post em up. I have the service, owner and parts manuals for 05-06. http://www.sirbrockman.com/
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Mar 26, 2010 01:27
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You are awesome, thank you!
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Mar 26, 2010 03:53
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And front brakes are finally back on. "Push like a motherfucker" was an understatement haha.
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Mar 26, 2010 18:13
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2007 Vulcan 900 custom. Battery's completely dead upon being exhumed from the garage this spring, and I was going to plug in the battery but as I was starting the pull the tool box and move all the wiring to get access to the battery, I remembered the previous owner told me he'd wired in a battery tender or something similar. I pulled out the plug he'd mentioned, but I'm not sure it is what I remember him saying it is. Just because I have a lovely memory for details, is all. Is this likely what I think it is? I thought it might be easier to just ask here instead of digging around trying to follow wires.  Sorry it's a blurry picture, my phone wouldn't focus so well that close. It's just two wires, black and white, and the plug has male and female components. I was just thinking maybe this was a standard plug used by battery tenders.
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Mar 26, 2010 19:55
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Yeah, it's a battery tender lead. Just so that you can plug in a battery tender when you're not riding without pulling a bunch of poo poo off to get to the battery. It's a standard plug.
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Mar 26, 2010 20:01
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Okay, that's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. Thanks. 
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Mar 26, 2010 20:03
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In a fit of laziness I took my 2002 Yamaha R6 to the dealer to clean the carbs. I was hoping to have the bike back tomorrow but they told me their was a recall on the drive sprocket and they had to order the part. I looked online and I found a technical service bulletin but no recall. I guess I'm surprised they are still going to cover it with the bike being so far out of warranty. I'm annoyed that Yamaha's website doesn't have any details on TSBs or Recalls. NHTSA Item Number: 10019598 Service Bulletin #: 200603 Replacement #: Vehicle/Equipment Make: YAMAHA Vehicle/Eqipment Model: YZFR6 Model Year: 2002 Mfg Component Code: 100000 POWER TRAIN Date of Bulletin: 2006-02-24 Date Added: 2006-03-31 Summary: DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINING NUT AND LOCK WASHER REPLACEMENT. *TT
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Mar 26, 2010 22:39
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Service bulletins get covered, no questions asked, by the factory no matter how old the vehicle is. When I worked at a VW dealer we did service bulletins on an 86 pickup and an 82 Passat. Not too surprised by the first one, but the second was a real treat for everyone in the building. I bet even the Germans who shipped the parts laughed at that. This is probably not a metallurgy thing as you might think, but probably a faulty manufacture procedure where the tab on the lock washer didn't get pulled properly (or something like that) and vibrations might have dented the nut slightly so they replace both. I doesn't even have to be the case with your bike, but the internal quality control detected a problem, determined the cause (poor tool installed on #date, idiot hired on #date - tool/tool replaced on #otherdate) and the period where it might or might not have taken place. I'm a bit long winded about this due to the recent Prius thing and how Toyota gets hung out to dry. There is hardly a private market business where the manufacturer is so dedicated to quality control and so committed to customer service as cars and to an insignificantly lesser amount bikes. Nobody from Sanyo is going to fix the (possibly) faulty soldering of your 1982 LP player which might (or might not) burn down your house. Ola fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 23:03
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Ola posted:Service bulletins get covered, no questions asked, by the factory no matter how old the vehicle is... Ah, I had no idea. I thought only recalls were covered. Thanks for the info! I guess I'm lucky that I brought the bike to the dealer.
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Mar 26, 2010 23:11
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I'm back. Ran over to napa and picked up a 900mA charger/maintainer. I plugged it into the dongle hanging off my bike, and plugged in the charger. The power light comes on, but nothing else. Exactly as if it were just plugged into the wall, and nothing was connected to the charger. Since I'd never actually verified that the dongle is connected properly, I pulled the seat up, removed the toolbox, and traced the wires form the dongle back to the battery. Everything appears to be wired correctly. Just to be sure, though, I connected the clips to the charger and clipped onto the battery. Plug it in, power light comes on, nothing else. No charging light, no fault light, no blinkity-blink, nothing. Might as well not be connected. Any ideas? Key is off, flipping it on/off does nothing. This is the 900mA napa-brand charger you'd get at any local napa store. Bike was working just great last fall. And even if a fuse had blown, I plugged the charger straight onto the battery, bypassing any bike electronics. I just wanna go for a ride.  [edit] The charger is model 85-201, if it matters. This one. [double edit] Damnit, I just plugged it into the other bike and it says charging, as expected. Is my battery completely dead somehow? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 00:58
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Bad Munki posted:I'm back. Ran over to napa and picked up a 900mA charger/maintainer. I plugged it into the dongle hanging off my bike, and plugged in the charger. The power light comes on, but nothing else. Exactly as if it were just plugged into the wall, and nothing was connected to the charger. 900ma is way to little to charge a completely dead battery and likely if the battery is that dead you may have a bad cell and need to replace it anyways. Is there any way you can jump it from a car?(make sure the engine of the car is off.)
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Mar 27, 2010 01:09
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I have a 60A box I could jump from. And I guess I've got the battery exposed anyhow. So, what, jump it, go for a ride, and then see if that put any charge on? My other concern is why the hell my battery would have gone that dead in the first place. The key was off all winter, I've got no "extras" connected, and it hasn't been that long since I last rode it.
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Mar 27, 2010 01:10
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Bad Munki posted:I have a 60A box I could jump from. And I guess I've got the battery exposed anyhow. I'm assuming you mean one of those Jumper packs in which case you should be able to but you will have to go directly to the battery posts. If on the other hand you have a 60a battery charger I would set it to 10a and let it charge for an hour or so and then give it a shot. Either way your battery may need to be replaced if it sat totally dead all winter. Also if it does run it depends on the bike as to whether the battery will get charged from running the motor as most bikes have pretty small amounts of power comping out of th R/r ect... my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 01:13
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Oh, also: according to the trouble-shooting in the manual for this little charger, "Problem: Battery is connected and the charger is on, but is not charging (charging LED is not lit)" describes my problem, but they claim the solution is to make sure the connections are solid (wiggle the clamps.) For a severely discharged battery, or a defective battery, supposedly the full charge LED should turn on red (instead of green). I get no such feedback. Basically, they claim that if my battery's toast, it'll tell me. All it's really telling me, though, is that the battery isn't connected to the charger. Pubic Lair posted:charger- Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 01:16
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, also: according to the trouble-shooting in the manual for this little charger, "Problem: Battery is connected and the charger is on, but is not charging (charging LED is not lit)" describes my problem, but they claim the solution is to make sure the connections are solid (wiggle the clamps.) If the battery has a bad cell or is completely dead the charger may not be able to detect it's connected. Set your big charger at 5 or 10a if possible and wait an hour to see if the battery comes up if not it's toast or you do have a bad connection somewhere.
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Mar 27, 2010 01:20
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Pubic Lair posted:If the battery has a bad cell or is completely dead the charger may not be able to detect it's connected. All right, thanks for the help. I've got the big charger on 10A auto. See ya'll in a couple hours. 
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Mar 27, 2010 01:23
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Bad Munki posted:All right, thanks for the help. I've got the big charger on 10A auto. See ya'll in a couple hours. If none of the bike lights come on your battery is toast. I tend to get 3-4 years max out of lawn/motorcycle batteries before they die but at ~$40 at walmart, autozone ect.. they are not too big a loss. my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 01:27
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Yeah, definitely no lighting or anything when I flip the key on. It was a little disheartening this year to flip the key on and not hear the fuel pump kick in. I'll still give it a little while on the charger just to be sure, and to give myself some time to mourn.
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Mar 27, 2010 01:34
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I intend to install grip heaters on my '79 GS750L tomorrow. I'd like to connect them to a wire that's hot with the ignition so I don't leave it on accidentally and kill my battery. I don't know that bikes this old (or at least mine) had accessory power. Is there a way to do this, and can anyone point me in the right direction?
orthod0ks fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 02:09
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orthod0ks posted:I intend to install grip heaters on my '79 GS750L tomorrow. I'd like to connect them to a wire that's hot with the ignition so I don't leave it on accidentally and kill my battery. I don't know that bikes this old (or at least mine) had accessory power. Is there a way to do this, and can anyone point me in the right direction? Tap something that only has power when the bike is on. The horn wire would work.
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Mar 27, 2010 02:33
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n8r posted:Tap something that only has power when the bike is on. The horn wire would work. Is it that simple? I've been reading things about relays and accessory power, and frankly I'm out of my element as it is attempting my own maintenance. Digging into the electrical system has me freaked out a bit.
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Mar 27, 2010 02:49
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Welp, after a couple hours on the 10A charger, I still get nothing at all, so I guess the battery's definitely toast. Oh well, guess I'll pick one up tomorrow. Anything in particular I need to look for in a battery?
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Mar 27, 2010 03:10
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