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orthod0ks posted:Is it that simple? I've been reading things about relays and accessory power, and frankly I'm out of my element as it is attempting my own maintenance. Digging into the electrical system has me freaked out a bit. Yeah, it's really simple. If you're thinking about eventually wiring up multiple things, check this out: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php It also does a good job of explaining how you'd put in a relay. Read it over, and any questions you have after that, ask away  Bad Munki posted:Welp, after a couple hours on the 10A charger, I still get nothing at all, so I guess the battery's definitely toast. Oh well, guess I'll pick one up tomorrow. I like buying decent batteries, if you have a battery tender there's no reason they shouldn't last years. Basically what happens is you find the correct battery by the series of letters and numbers, and then you dump the acid in, let it sit for a bit, seal it, and slap it on a charger for awhile. Install and ride
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Mar 27, 2010 03:32
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Ola posted:Service bulletins get covered, no questions asked, by the factory no matter how old the vehicle is. Depends on the manufacturer and maybe the location. GM will not cover TSB's, most manufacturers here release TSB's as a detailed fix for specific problems but they do not become an extended warranty. That problem with the sprocket may be covered as a safety concern, having a sprocket come off and jam up your bike at speed would seriously compromise your safety.
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Mar 27, 2010 03:33
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Z3n posted:I like buying decent batteries, if you have a battery tender there's no reason they shouldn't last years. Basically what happens is you find the correct battery by the series of letters and numbers, and then you dump the acid in, let it sit for a bit, seal it, and slap it on a charger for awhile. Install and ride What is the threshold of down-time for plugging in the tender? In order to promote optimal battery life, that is. I assume plugging it in every night would be pointless, but if it's going to be sitting there for 6 months, it should be connected. So what's the cutoff? 1 week? 2 weeks? A month?
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Mar 27, 2010 03:38
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Bad Munki posted:What is the threshold of down-time for plugging in the tender? In order to promote optimal battery life, that is. I assume plugging it in every night would be pointless, but if it's going to be sitting there for 6 months, it should be connected. So what's the cutoff? 1 week? 2 weeks? A month? Well, keep in mind that I have no idea about these things because we have year round riding, but...I'd plug it in if the bike was sitting more than 2 days. That's probably overkill, but I really hate replacing batteries.
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Mar 27, 2010 03:42
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Spent a few hours working on the 50 today and it is still running like poo poo. Hard to start because the clutch is slipping so I need to adjust that and get the heavy duty springs. Once it start it usually runs good once warmed up for 5-10 minutes then will start to bog or misfire and will die, sometimes if I notice it quick enough I can get it in neutral and play with the gas to keep it running. Also after this happens it doesn't like to start for a couple minutes. Bike is a crf50 with a BBR 88cc big bore kit, appears to be stock carb (too small) and a crappy chinese pipe on it. Today I found that it seems to run better with the needle set to full rich but it still has issues and won't run reliably. I'm going to try to get my hands on a crf70 carb tomorrow to see if that helps. Otherwise will tear down the carb again tomorrow morning and clean it again. Have a race tomorrow afternoon that I would like to compete in. Other than cleaning the carbs again any ideas for getting this thing to run like it is supposed to?
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Mar 27, 2010 04:09
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Z3n posted:Well, keep in mind that I have no idea about these things because we have year round riding, but...I'd plug it in if the bike was sitting more than 2 days. That's probably overkill, but I really hate replacing batteries. Definitely overkill I'd say, at least perhaps until the battery is getting some age on it - I say this because after recently having a battery go dead to the point where it wouldn't accept charge anymore, I bought a new battery and a CTEK trickle charger to ensure that I'll never again kill a battery due to neglect if I can't ride for a period of time. After maybe 3 weeks without having a chance to ride, I plugged the charger in and it determined the battery required no charging.
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Mar 27, 2010 05:21
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Are there any upsides/downsides to changing the rear sprocket as opposed to the front? I'm going to play around with the gearing on the 250 and I want a final drive ratio of .333, which is 15F/45R or 14F/42R. Stock gearing is 14F/45R. I'd much rather change the rear sprocket as opposed to messing around with the front. Rear sprockets are obviously more expensive but I don't particularly care about that.
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Mar 27, 2010 06:09
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Yeah, the rear sprocket up 3 teeth may or may not fit your chain. How far on the adjuster are you?
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Mar 27, 2010 06:12
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ninja250.org says the stock chain should work, but then again most the stuff there is geared towards old-gens. Dunno if anything changed in that regard between the years. I don't have the bike in front of me at the moment but I recall it being about halfway. I think.
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Mar 27, 2010 06:23
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-Inu- posted:ninja250.org says the stock chain should work, but then again most the stuff there is geared towards old-gens. Dunno if anything changed in that regard between the years. I don't have the bike in front of me at the moment but I recall it being about halfway. I think. I'd check the number of links of each chain, stock...that should tell you. Either way, I'd prefer to change the front sprocket. Doesn't involve removing the rear wheel, less adjustment needed, etc.
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Mar 27, 2010 06:48
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Bad Munki posted:Welp, after a couple hours on the 10A charger, I still get nothing at all, so I guess the battery's definitely toast. Oh well, guess I'll pick one up tomorrow. Pretty much just match up one that fits. When you look them up they are all essentially the same except for the size and which post is pos and neg. You can often times swap in a battery that is not the exact one but if you hit walmart or any autoparts store they should have a book or be able to look it up and get you an oem match. For a new battery there should be instructions but all you have to do is open the caps, pour in the acid and then charge it for a few hours and then bolt it in. I have skipped the charging step with no ill effects in the past but if you have the time I would wait to make sure the battery gets charged correctly to get the most longevity out of it. I also should clarify the ~3 year life I get is in IL leaving the bike dormant for 3-4 months in the winter in unheated storage every year. I have a harbor freight $5 tender but I have yet to use it. my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 07:44
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Pubic Lair posted:I also should clarify the ~3 year life I get is in IL leaving the bike dormant for 3-4 months in the winter in unheated storage every year. I have a harbor freight $5 tender but I have yet to use it. Well, I'm in Iowa, so close enough. It sits in my garage which is attached to the house, but that only keeps it maybe 5 degrees warmer than outside.
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Mar 27, 2010 16:25
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Gnomad posted:Depends on the manufacturer and maybe the location. GM will not cover TSB's, most manufacturers here release TSB's as a detailed fix for specific problems but they do not become an extended warranty. That problem with the sprocket may be covered as a safety concern, having a sprocket come off and jam up your bike at speed would seriously compromise your safety. Yeah, I figure then it would rise to the level of a recall which must be covered by the manufacturer regardless of warranty status. Either way I'm just glad it's being fixed.
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Mar 27, 2010 16:30
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One more thing: I've never dealt with a dry battery before. Is that the norm with bikes? Does the acid or electrolytes or whatever come with it, or will I likely need to get that separate?
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Mar 27, 2010 17:23
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Bad Munki posted:One more thing: I've never dealt with a dry battery before. Is that the norm with bikes? Does the acid or electrolytes or whatever come with it, or will I likely need to get that separate? All bike batteries come dry. There is a bottle in the box with enough acid to fill it and maybe a little extra. On the side of the battery there is markings for how high to fill the cells. I usually fill each cell to 1/2 and then wait a minute or 2 and then put a little in each cell until they are all up to the line. Also it will start bubbling when you put in the acid which is normal but makes it a bit harder to get the levels right. Make sure you run the drain hose that comes with the new battery in case when you charge it the acid gets too high and leaks.
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Mar 27, 2010 18:02
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All righty, that's more or less what I expected. I've topped off a battery before, but never filled one from scratch.
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Mar 27, 2010 18:19
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Bad Munki posted:What is the threshold of down-time for plugging in the tender? In order to promote optimal battery life, that is. I assume plugging it in every night would be pointless, but if it's going to be sitting there for 6 months, it should be connected. So what's the cutoff? 1 week? 2 weeks? A month? Generally, I trickle charge it overnight every month or so of sitting. Seems to work well for me. Bad Munki posted:All righty, that's more or less what I expected. I've topped off a battery before, but never filled one from scratch. If you have a BatteriesPlus nearby, call them and let them know what you want, and they'll do all that for you before you pick it up.
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Mar 27, 2010 18:58
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Can someone please tell me what the gently caress I'm doing. My carb is in pieces outside. Background: bike wouldn't idle, but ran fine under throttle. I took the carb out, cleaned it, and now it will idle but dies when I give it throttle. I'm relatively sure it isn't a vacuum issue. I was told I need to clean the pilot jet. Can someone point out what all these holes are? I stripped the gently caress out of the right one trying to remove it, assuming it actually can be removed. It had a flathead style notch in it. I've tried sticking wire through all of them though I don't really know what that's supposed to accomplish. The only time I got it through to another hole was when I put it in the center hole and it goes out into the main passageway of the carb. edit: i absolutely 100% cannot get the pilot screw out and it's stripped to the point of no return. time to buy a new carb? update: put it back together for the hell of it and it's actually moving under its own power, but it's rough as hell near idle and will sometimes die. The exhaust is having lots of small backfires which I guess means it's either got too much fuel or not enough air now. hayden. fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 19:05
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Doctor Zero posted:Generally, I trickle charge it overnight every month or so of sitting. Seems to work well for me. Does it make a difference that the battery in my bike is a sealed one? My old bike had a battery with the plugs I could remove in order to top it off, which is what I'm expecting to encounter, but this one is locked up tight as can be.
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Mar 27, 2010 19:08
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Bad Munki posted:Does it make a difference that the battery in my bike is a sealed one? My old bike had a battery with the plugs I could remove in order to top it off, which is what I'm expecting to encounter, but this one is locked up tight as can be. If its sealed, then you don't have to do anything to it.
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Mar 27, 2010 19:15
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Except that it's dead as poo poo, so I need to replace it. 
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Mar 27, 2010 19:17
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Hey guys, I'm thinking about buying a Ninja 250, but got questions about it. Go to the 250 thread, I'd like some help
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Mar 27, 2010 19:41
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I'm in the middle of hooking up the grip heaters, and we tapped into the horn wire, but got nothing. Is it a problem that those wires only get power when you're actually hitting the horn button?
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Mar 27, 2010 20:20
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You'd need to tap into the wire before the switch. After the switch will only get power when you push the button. Also, I've seen horn circuits where they are switch to ground, which means the horn always has power and you are just giving ground to complete the circuit. If this is the case you won't be able to get the grips to work using that wire.
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Mar 27, 2010 21:54
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Bugdrvr posted:You'd need to tap into the wire before the switch. After the switch will only get power when you push the button. We determined that this was the issue (switch just grounds, completing the circuit), but we were able to get it to work, so maybe our conclusion was wrong. I have some pictures to post to help the next poor sap.
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Mar 27, 2010 22:08
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Bad Munki posted:Except that it's dead as poo poo, so I need to replace it. I would think it's still a conventional acid battery that's just sealed to prevent filling it by the consumer or leaks.
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Mar 27, 2010 23:42
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Anyone know the latest on California's plan to smog-check motorcycles? Google turns up nothing more recent than June of last year. Everything I could read from then stated that smog checks were being dropped, but people in the comments for those articles stated that smog checks were still in, and the bill was awaiting approval from the House. Anyone know what's going on?
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Mar 27, 2010 23:57
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Darnit...we found my battery just fine at wal mart, it's a 12bs. Unfortunately for my wife, wal-mart's brand of choice (everstart) doesn't make a battery for her bike. Should be a 12b4, and we even looked in the book and there was a big "NA" next to her bike. So, I guess she'll have to wait until monday so we can try maybe napa? I'm sure someone carries a replacement.
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Mar 28, 2010 00:48
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Bad Munki posted:Darnit...we found my battery just fine at wal mart, it's a 12bs. Unfortunately for my wife, wal-mart's brand of choice (everstart) doesn't make a battery for her bike. Should be a 12b4, and we even looked in the book and there was a big "NA" next to her bike. So, I guess she'll have to wait until monday so we can try maybe napa? I'm sure someone carries a replacement. Any 12 volt battery with sufficient amp-hours that will fit in the battery compartment should be fine.
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Mar 28, 2010 01:03
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Watommi posted:Anyone know the latest on California's plan to smog-check motorcycles? Google turns up nothing more recent than June of last year. Everything I could read from then stated that smog checks were being dropped, but people in the comments for those articles stated that smog checks were still in, and the bill was awaiting approval from the House. It got halted and tossed off to committee, last I checked, lingering in bureaucratic hell until someone decides to revive it. hayden. posted:Can someone please tell me what the gently caress I'm doing. My carb is in pieces outside. The one you stripped is the pilot jet, which is probably still blocked, and is causing all your issues. I'd just buy another carb on ebay. You probably got it mostly cleaned out, but not entirely, thusly the backfires (indicating a lean condition). You could do a carb replacement, but another thing that I would try is to seafoam the gas and then ride the bike like you stole it, a lot of throttle to get gas pumping through there and hopefully clean out the remainder of the poo poo in the pilot.
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Mar 28, 2010 02:22
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Thanks for the help as always Zen. I'm just gonna try to sell it as it, and if that doesn't work apparently there's a tool called an easy-out.
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Mar 28, 2010 02:29
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Bad Munki posted:Darnit...we found my battery just fine at wal mart, it's a 12bs. Unfortunately for my wife, wal-mart's brand of choice (everstart) doesn't make a battery for her bike. Should be a 12b4, and we even looked in the book and there was a big "NA" next to her bike. So, I guess she'll have to wait until monday so we can try maybe napa? I'm sure someone carries a replacement. If there is a Batteries Plus near you, check with them. They've had every battery I ever needed. Prices are competitive.
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Mar 28, 2010 02:44
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orthod0ks posted:I'm in the middle of hooking up the grip heaters, and we tapped into the horn wire, but got nothing. Is it a problem that those wires only get power when you're actually hitting the horn button? I like to wire my grip heaters right off the alternator output. You get full power off the alternator and it only powers up while running. It won't run down your battery and it won't put an extra load on your existing R/R.
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Mar 28, 2010 02:48
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hayden. posted:Thanks for the help as always Zen. I'm just gonna try to sell it as it, and if that doesn't work apparently there's a tool called an easy-out. Yeah, you could probably get it out with an ez out, but honestly, I'd just buy a new carb. Seriously though, try a full tank of fresh gas with the appropriate amount of seafoam in it, I've seen it work before, especially with minorly clogged stuff or things that are sort of broken loose. And you get to ride it like you stole it, which is always fun.
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Mar 28, 2010 03:20
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sectoidman posted:Any 12 volt battery with sufficient amp-hours that will fit in the battery compartment should be fine. You also need to check the terminals to make sure pos and neg are on the same sides or your cables have to have enough extra lenght to switch them. My local napas don't carry moto batteries but my autozone does. YMMV
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Mar 28, 2010 03:46
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hayden. posted:
loving up the threads is a good enough reason to buy a new one, but to me this... quote:bike wouldn't idle, but ran fine under throttle. I took the carb out, cleaned it, and now it will idle but dies when I give it throttle. ...sounds like you put it back together incorrectly. If your bike has only one carb it won't be synchronization, but given the fact that you've moved the problem, something in your process has moved it. quote:I've tried sticking wire through all of them though I don't really know what that's supposed to accomplish. All those holes that don't go anywhere are circuits internal to the carb, there's a maze of channels which helps mixing fuel and air correctly at any given throttle opening.
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Mar 28, 2010 03:59
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Found a good carb from a guy that cleaned the heck out of it for $70, which seems like a good deal.
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Mar 28, 2010 04:14
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orthod0ks posted:We determined that this was the issue (switch just grounds, completing the circuit), but we were able to get it to work, so maybe our conclusion was wrong. I have some pictures to post to help the next poor sap. The idea of having to blare the horn in order to get your grip heaters to work is far too funny.
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Mar 28, 2010 04:45
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n8r posted:The idea of having to blare the horn in order to get your grip heaters to work is far too funny. "Outta my way, it's cold!"
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Mar 28, 2010 05:38
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Honda is officially evil at parts COWL SET, R. (TYPE1) 64400-MFJ-A30ZB COWL SET, R. (TYPE4) 64400-MFJ-D00ZF COWL SET, R. (TYPE1) 64400-MFJ-D10ZK COWL SET, R. (TYPE2) 64400-MFJ-D10ZL I have no idea which one of these is the correct color for my bike, the part number has nothing from the color code in it, and the part number listed on the piece isn't a real part number 
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Mar 28, 2010 13:32
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