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hayden. posted:update: put it back together for the hell of it and it's actually moving under its own power, but it's rough as hell near idle and will sometimes die. The exhaust is having lots of small backfires which I guess means it's either got too much fuel or not enough air now. Could your be arsed to post a high resolution picture of the surface on your your float valve. That's the litte needle fucker your floaters engage. Please examine the conical polished surface on it. If there's any wear large enough to catch a fingernail replace the needle and the seat.
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Mar 28, 2010 13:53
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Almost as evil for the decals  MARK, R. (TYPE4) 64311-MFJ-D00ZD MARK, R. (TYPE1) 64311-MFJ-D10ZB MARK, L. (TYPE4) 64312-MFJ-D00ZD MARK, L. (TYPE1) 64312-MFJ-D10ZB The only nicer thing here is they had 3 different decal schemes that year (2008). Unfortunately my bike is not one of the unique two At least with decals they are cheap enough I could get away with ordering both to find out which is right, not so true of the body parts.
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Mar 28, 2010 14:23
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hayden. posted:I've tried sticking wire through all of them though I don't really know what that's supposed to accomplish. The only time I got it through to another hole was when I put it in the center hole and it goes out into the main passageway of the carb. Z3n posted:The one you stripped is the pilot jet, which is probably still blocked, and is causing all your issues. The holes I'd mentioned before which needed needle poking are the actual pilot jet, which are these little dudebros  Namely, 4 or so holes on the engine-side of the throttle body. They really only get work under very specific conditions, so like you saw, once they get gunked, its hard to get them degunked by just riding it out. I think I'm going to try some seafoam myself once the KLR comes out of hiding for the winter, and I think that would actually get in there a bit. I have this several page printout from some now-defunkt aol.com member page which had a whole bunch of good info on the CVK40 carb we have. Unfortunately, it's entirely hardcopy, but I can make a photocopy and send it out to you, if you'd like. Also, if you're not already, since you're in there, I recommend drilling the slide and shimming the main needle jet as discussed here as it does make a pretty good difference for the cost of a 7/64" drill bit (don't use any other size) and a tiny washer. Additionally discussed on that link to the KLR forums is the proper measurement for the 'Pilot Mixture Screw' which is OUTSIDE the body of the carb, and thusly adjustable while the bike is running, though that's likely not your issue. After I did all my work, my issue became that, if the bike sat for more than say, 30 seconds, it would slowly.. slowly.. slooowwly march toward stalling. I ended up adjusting my idle mixture screw a bit, and kicking up the idle adjuster and throwing it in storage for the winter. Who knows what I'll find when I get it out. 
Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Mar 28, 2010 |
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Mar 28, 2010 14:41
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Fantastipotamus posted:That's not the pilot jet, that's the pilot screw. While it likely needed cleaning, I ALSO couldn't get it out of my own KLR (but I didn't strip it), so I don't know what the loving deal is with that little bitch. Weak brass screw tightened by the hand of god, perhaps? Well it's nice to know I'm not the only guy who couldn't get the screw out. I saw those four holes you spoke of and it's the one thing I didn't run the wire through. I ordered the new carb that also has the mods you suggested there. I'll hopefully be able to resell my old carb to cover some of the cost. Thanks for the help!
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Mar 28, 2010 16:26
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Maybe you could sell it back to the guy you bought it from for like 60% of what you got your new one for? If all it needs is a cleaning and some effort to get that screw out of there, it'd probably be a quick profit for him. *shrug*
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Mar 28, 2010 17:04
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n8r posted:The idea of having to blare the horn in order to get your grip heaters to work is far too funny. Yea, we actually tested this initially when we thought that was the issue. I'm sure my elderly neighbor had the first 6 digits dialed for the police department before we stopped.
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Mar 28, 2010 17:18
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How well do seat pads work to stop making my pelvis feel like it's being crushed? After a couple hour ride on the GSXR it almost hurts to pee. Reason I ask this is because I'm planning a trip to California or somewhere this summer and I need something more comfortable for my rear end. I don't mind the riding position for my back and wrists - that's fine, it's just my rear end/pelvis that kills. Would something like this work? http://www.newenough.com/parts/accessories/seat_pads/pro_pad/motorcycle_fabric_gel_seat_pad.html
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Mar 28, 2010 17:30
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Fantastipotamus posted:That's not the pilot jet, that's the pilot screw. While it likely needed cleaning, I ALSO couldn't get it out of my own KLR (but I didn't strip it), so I don't know what the loving deal is with that little bitch. Weak brass screw tightened by the hand of god, perhaps? I'm confused now...what's the point of having a pilot screw if it's just bottomed? That's why I assumed it was the pilot jet, as that's the location for the pilot jet in all CV type carbs I've pulled apart. (admittedly, not that many). MrZig, I'd try and find a corbin or something for your bike, I have a gel seat on my DRZ right now and it's miserable, all of the gel just squishes out of the way and I'm left sitting on a 2x4. This sort of comfort is a personal thing though, some people hate corbins/sargents/etc, some people love them. http://www.ridethatbike.com/ST1300/Spencer%20mod.htm I was considering that for the ZZR, if I had kept it. Lance, can you call a dealership and figure out with their help which is which?
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Mar 28, 2010 17:41
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I'm looking to get into motorcycles in the very near future (i know nothing about them) as just a form of transportation to friends houses on nice days. Once I get to that point I'm really interested in this kind of bike, but I don't know what you would call it.  What is this style called so I know what to look for when I'm hunting for a bike of my own?
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Mar 28, 2010 18:47
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Watommi posted:Anyone know the latest on California's plan to smog-check motorcycles? Google turns up nothing more recent than June of last year. Everything I could read from then stated that smog checks were being dropped, but people in the comments for those articles stated that smog checks were still in, and the bill was awaiting approval from the House. I did some more searching and was able to find this at California's Senate's web page - the latest iteration of the bill, dated January of this year. http://info.sen.ca.gov/pub/09-10/bill/sen/sb_0401-0450/sb_435_bill_20100111_amended_asm_v96.html Looks like they did end up amending out everything about smog checks, and the bill as now will just increase penalties for tampering with environmental crap. I assume that includes Air Injection systems, which turn my pipes blue and make it pop when I let off the exhaust  I assume that unless I get pulled over by a cop that knows about bikes, I'll probably never have to worry about it though. Another questions: I see "tax id holders" sold as accessories all over the place. What are those? Is that a European thing?
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Mar 28, 2010 18:49
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Z3n posted:MrZig, I'd try and find a corbin or something for your bike, I have a gel seat on my DRZ right now and it's miserable, all of the gel just squishes out of the way and I'm left sitting on a 2x4. This sort of comfort is a personal thing though, some people hate corbins/sargents/etc, some people love them. Thanks, I emailed Spencer about it, waiting to see what he has to say. I'm sure gel would still be better than my brick.
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Mar 28, 2010 18:52
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Internet Victory posted:What is this style called so I know what to look for when I'm hunting for a bike of my own? It's called "Really expensive and maintenance heavy bike, you shouldn't really consider as your first bike"-style.
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Mar 28, 2010 18:53
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Internet Victory posted:I'm looking to get into motorcycles in the very near future (i know nothing about them) as just a form of transportation to friends houses on nice days. Once I get to that point I'm really interested in this kind of bike, but I don't know what you would call it. As far as style, you'd probably call that a standard or naked standard. Going further though, that's a bike that's designed to look like a classic from way back. Specifically, it means you have spectacular taste in motorcycles. Triumph has a line of motorcycles similar to this that they call "Modern Classics", modern bikes made to look like classics from the 60s and 70s. This includes the Bonneville, Scrambler, and Thruxton. Kawasaki had a bike pretty much identical to the Triumph Bonneville several years back, I believe called the W650, but they're hard to find. Moto Guzzi and a few others also make similarly styled bikes. And because I'm a whore, here's my Scrambler posing with an elephant:  A good thing about the Triumph Modern Classics is that tons of accessories exist to stylize your bike as you like it, for example adding that number plate on the front fender.
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Mar 28, 2010 18:58
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Internet Victory posted:I'm looking to get into motorcycles in the very near future (i know nothing about them) as just a form of transportation to friends houses on nice days. Once I get to that point I'm really interested in this kind of bike, but I don't know what you would call it. Really expensive unless bruce wayne adopts you. You would probably be looking for a naked standard type bike. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Types_of_motorcycles Triumph, royal enfield and a few other make standards that look similar. Or many people will do cafe racer conversions that can make something like a ninja look similar the issue with a cafe bike is did the guy compromise safety when he cut stuff off.
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Mar 28, 2010 19:02
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If anyone's interested, I posted a thread on my grip heater install.
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Mar 28, 2010 19:02
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Thanks for the quick replies. I know that particular example is expensive as gently caress but it's just so gorgeous. Now that I know what they're known as I can start trying to find a less expensive alternative.
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Mar 28, 2010 19:48
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Z3n posted:I'm confused now...what's the point of having a pilot screw if it's just bottomed? That's why I assumed it was the pilot jet, as that's the location for the pilot jet in all CV type carbs I've pulled apart. (admittedly, not that many). That being said, the only adjustment one has for the idle circuit is the idle mixture screw, which is outside the carb (as opposed to the jet, which isn't adjustable just being holes and the screw which is bottomed out AND you have to remove the float to get to). Maybe that's it? I *think* i've read that it'll idle better if you shim that pilot screw (assuming you can get it out) just a bit, but I might be wrong. The hole it's in is rather narrow, and the screw itself is wide, so there isn't much room for a washer shim or anything.
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Mar 28, 2010 19:49
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When I got my GS750L, it had after market handlebars on it. I like them more than the stock, but they're lower, so the standard mirrors I bought for it are a bit low. I have trouble seeing over my shoulders. I'm not sure bar ends would work well on my bike. I've browsed some different options, but haven't found anything convincing, and I don't want to buy some on a whim. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Mar 28, 2010 20:07
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Internet Victory posted:Thanks for the quick replies. I know that particular example is expensive as gently caress but it's just so gorgeous. Now that I know what they're known as I can start trying to find a less expensive alternative. Ural and Chiang Jiang make clones of a 1938 BMW design that would be similar in looks but much cheaper.
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Mar 28, 2010 23:38
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Wohoo, I think I figured out the part numbers after some hunting around  Finally found a site with the parts catalog description pulled into the fiche with some detail so I could figure out which paint scheme was for which part (for some reason I could only find the catalogs themselves online in Portuguese??). I'm still going to call the vendor I buy this kind of stuff from normally tomorrow to see if they can verify its correct. Unfortunately it looks like black paint was expensive that year, it's the second most expensive version of that part
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Mar 29, 2010 04:27
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Blast from the past:Gnomad posted:If there is a Batteries Plus near you, check with them. They've had every battery I ever needed. Prices are competitive. I found one just north of Des Moines. They wanted $60 for the battery. With whom is that considered competitive? But they had it, so there's that.
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Mar 29, 2010 16:43
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Bad Munki posted:Blast from the past:
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Mar 29, 2010 18:13
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Jebus. Are the walmart everlast brands just super lovely that I can get a 12bs there for about $30?
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Mar 29, 2010 18:14
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So I found this 82 Honda Nighthawk 650 on craigslist for $400 for a cheap starter, but it needs work. The guy sounds dumb but this is what he posted:quote:Was running last month. I believe the cylanoid went in the starter. Needs piston rings but still runs,needs a carb adjustment which i would suggest, and the brake cailber is leaking a little bit due to old rusty hardware. The bike still stops, and the caliber still works but it would need attention soon. How difficult would this be to fix myself? I know rings are a difficult job on a car but a motorcycle is a whole different animal. And if it's near impossible, how much am I looking at at a shop? (really rough estimate) I dont wanna go higher than $400 on the bike itself and if it needs a little work it'll be a good way to learn.
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Mar 29, 2010 18:40
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Internet Victory posted:So I found this 82 Honda Nighthawk 650 on craigslist for $400 for a cheap starter, but it needs work. The guy sounds dumb but this is what he posted: Solenoid is easy, piston rings is major work, caliper overhaul not too bad, carb adjustment necessary on any bike. Doing it in the shop would easily be thousands of dollars and you're going to have to wrench on any older bike you buy. That thing there will be a drain on your wallet and your sanity of a long time before you get to ride it. My recommendation is to readjust your expectations and budget. Spend $1500+ on something you can ride away from the seller - you'll learn wrenching soon enough.
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Mar 29, 2010 18:44
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I would think it'd be a fairly solid plan to buy a fixer-upper in the fall, when people are trying to offload before winter, and then spend the next few winter months in the garage working on the bike at your leisure. I say that knowing poo poo about actually working on a bike, of course, but it seems like a good way to get a solid deal.  I see loads of sales on craigslist where someone buys a bike and then can't really afford to keep it around as planned (just don't ever ever ever take over someone's bike loan.)
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Mar 29, 2010 18:46
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Ola posted:Solenoid is easy, piston rings is major work, caliper overhaul not too bad, carb adjustment necessary on any bike. Doing it in the shop would easily be thousands of dollars and you're going to have to wrench on any older bike you buy. That thing there will be a drain on your wallet and your sanity of a long time before you get to ride it. My recommendation is to readjust your expectations and budget. Spend $1500+ on something you can ride away from the seller - you'll learn wrenching soon enough. I know that's the best plan but I just dont have the patience to save up the $1500 I want to own now! edit: I found one mint with 3k on the odometer for $1500. Are these bikes even worth $1500 or should I look at other bikes? Internet Victory fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 29, 2010 |
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Mar 29, 2010 18:49
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Internet Victory posted:I know that's the best plan but I just dont have the patience to save up the $1500 I want to own now! A year ago, I was in the exact same boat that you are in now. I didn't want to wait to save up the money, so I bought a fixer-upper ex500. I worked on it for 7 months (much much longer than it would have taken to just save the money to buy a running bike), and in the end, I didn't save THAT much money. On the flip-side, I really enjoyed working on it, and I learned most everything about my bike that there is to know. Had I been able to go back and do it differently, I probably would have bought a cheap running bike that didn't require any fixing by me, and then bought a separate poo poo-case to fix up in my spare time. Wrenching and riding, as opposed to just wrenching, would have made for a much better 7 months.
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Mar 29, 2010 18:57
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Internet Victory posted:I know that's the best plan but I just dont have the patience to save up the $1500 I want to own now! You do know that gear isn't free, right? Also an old, broken $400 bike will probably need $800 in parts to get running again. Tires, sprockets, chains, plugs, etc.
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Mar 29, 2010 19:09
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Internet Victory posted:So I found this 82 Honda Nighthawk 650 on craigslist for $400 for a cheap starter, but it needs work. The guy sounds dumb but this is what he posted: This is a really horrible idea, because if a seller says it needs rings, the entire top end is probably gone. It's not a bad idea to assume that everything is an order of magnitude worse than the seller makes it sound... AncientTV has gone through it, and Bad Munki has a good idea...if you want to work on a bike, find a cheap basket case and fix it up when you can't ride. If you want to actually ride the motorcycle, spend a little more up front and get a bike that starts and runs and is in good shape.
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Mar 29, 2010 19:37
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Z3n posted:It's not a bad idea to assume that everything is an order of magnitude worse than the seller makes it sound... Christ, I have to quote this just because of how true it really is.
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Mar 29, 2010 19:53
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Internet Victory posted:82 Honda Nighthawk 650 I own an '82 650 Nighthawk. Run, as fast as you can, in the other direction. Don't look back.
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Mar 29, 2010 23:42
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After my recent trip to Cambodia, I was inspired to go on a tour through Southeast Asia after I finish my graduate program. Since their roads are really terrible out there, I figure I may as well learn to ride something a little more useful than the Honda Elite 80 I'm currently riding. I've been looking for a dual sport for a week or so, and I'm in no big hurry and just waiting for something cheap and useful to come along. Since I'm a grad student, I'm trying to stick to 2 grand at the absolute max. I've been looking into the DR350, DRZ400, KLR650, TTR250, and DR250 in rough order of decreasing preference. I'm sure there are lots of other bikes that would make sense but my limited googling has led me to these specific choices and the concomitant craigslist bookmarks. I'm not planning on doing highway riding on the new bike, mostly learning how to ride an actual manual transmission bike and then eventually moving towards figuring out how to ride on rough/crappy roads over the next year or so. I'm a small dude, so I'm leaning more towards the DR350 end of things than the huge KLR650. Being able to stick someone on the back for a 10 mile-ish trip is a plus. Any bike suggestions/comments are welcome. While I'm at it, I found this on craigslist: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/1661735482.html $900 seems pretty good. How much time and money would it cost to convert such a bike to being street legal?
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Mar 29, 2010 23:46
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In CA, it's literally impossible. If the bike doesn't have a plate, the chances of it actually being able to acquire a plate are basically zero. How much offroad and what sort of offroad are you going to do? Anything with 2 wheels can handle hardpack and well maintained dirt roads, but real offroad (singletrack and tight trails stuff) is going to be difficult to learn to do well on a dirtbike that's going to handle 2 up. Keep an eye out on bayarearidersforum.com too, they have occasional great deals show up in their for sale forum. I'd also consider buying a more street oriented bike unless you're really seriously going to be doing offroad riding. Most people I know who buy a dual sport think "offroad riding, great!" and buy one and then it spends all it's time on the pavement. They could have widened their search and perhaps found a better deal if they hadn't excluded street based bikes right off the bat. And as I said, any motorcycle can handle what a lot of people consider "off road".
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Mar 30, 2010 01:13
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Well, I finally got my batteries. And, contrary to expectations, they're both sealed, so I won't be dicking with topping them off or anything. Just wanted to say thanks for the help to all who did. 
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Mar 30, 2010 02:25
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Z3n posted:In CA, it's literally impossible. If the bike doesn't have a plate, the chances of it actually being able to acquire a plate are basically zero. Thanks for the feedback. The basic idea is that I want to learn how to handle roads of roughly these conditions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk5pzgmuGyI So bad, but not like forest trails. If it comes to choosing between being able to go 2 up and learning what I need to learn for this tour, the latter obviously wins since I can ferry someone else around with the old Elite 80 (which is a pretty hilarious thing to do in San Francisco. Maxing out at 8 mph on some streets around here happens occasionally)
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Mar 30, 2010 03:21
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My CBR F2 runs beatifully at all ranges of the powerband and idles excellently after a carb cleaning. However, it still has the same problem as before...it's very hard to start, and when it does, it only runs on two cylinders at wide open throttle for about 20 seconds before revving up and running on all four. After that it's all gravy, and starts easy the rest of the day. I've done a spark check and get spark on all four plugs. The plugs are new and gapped. The carbs have been cleaned. Twice. All the jets are clean and there's no dirt that I can see anywhere. The fuel mixture screws are all the stock 2 1/8 turns out. Any less and it backfires from being lean, any more and it starts chugging. Only other clue is that my petcock is one from an F3, nixing the vacuum line that is used on the F2 in favor of a free-flowing design. I've blocked off the vacuum line which was left open. It also has a tiny exhaust leak at the joint between the pipe leading to the can and the headers. Is fuel somehow only getting adequately to two cylinders until it runs for a bit, for some reason? When I drain the carb bowls, all four have gas in them. Bonus: My bike sounds p. badass running on two cylinders. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Mar 30, 2010 |
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Mar 30, 2010 04:06
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My 700 did the same thing until I dicked around with the idle screws a bit. It was mostly happy with them being at 2 turns out but started on two cylinders most of the time. I found which pipes were cold and turned the screws out a quarter turn each. This seemed to fix the problem. It only runs funny now for a few seconds if I let it set for weeks. This running funny brings me to a question. Just how lovely and unstable is the fuel we use now? Like I was saying above, if I let the bike sit for two weeks or so it runs a little lovely for a while. Also, you can smell that old varnish gas smell out of the exhaust while it's running lousy. What's the deal? Does new gas really varnish up in just two weeks? Since I've had the bike it's only set this long twice while I was out of town. On any other week it usually gets at least 100 miles put on it so it's not like the gas in there was on it's way to being lovely anyway.
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Mar 30, 2010 04:54
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Anyone in SoCal go to Johnson & Wood in North Hollywood that often? I'm hoping they'll have the oddball y-shaped carb boot I need for the Virago 250 for less than the $70+ everywhere online wants.
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Mar 30, 2010 05:06
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Weinertron posted:You do know that gear isn't free, right? Also an old, broken $400 bike will probably need $800 in parts to get running again. Tires, sprockets, chains, plugs, etc. A thousand times, this. For any bike under $1000, add about $1000 in parts before you can safely ride it.
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Mar 30, 2010 05:10
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