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I'm going crazy, not being able to get on two wheels. I had an old 1972 CL350 that was a ball, but I'm not a mechanic so I had to get rid of it. Anyway, how's this look for a starter bike? I'm taking the MSF Basic Riders course April 23rd. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/1672119023.html 1994 Honda Shadow 600, 38k miles, great shape especially for the age, $1000. The guy is busy until saturday and wants to show it then, and it's about a 2 hour drive away from me. Pre-emptive thanks for the advice. edit: This is perfect for my budget  Leaves me some money for gear.
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Apr 1, 2010 22:09
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infraboy posted:How are 98+ Honda VFRs? They sound like really solid and reliable bikes and everyone that has one seems to love it. I've actually grown quite fond of the F4i, but used prices on them seem kinda high and a lot of them seem to have been lowslided at last once in their lives, the ones that haven't seem aburdly high in price. I don't know anything about VFRs, but have you considered cross shopping FZ6s with Kawasaki Z750s? I've heard good things about them.
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Apr 1, 2010 22:28
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AnimalChin posted:I'm going crazy, not being able to get on two wheels. I had an old 1972 CL350 that was a ball, but I'm not a mechanic so I had to get rid of it. Anyway, how's this look for a starter bike? Looks like a good deal for the price, if it's been well taken care of it should go the distance.
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Apr 1, 2010 22:49
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Other options: http://wilmington.craigslist.org/mcy/1650857721.html http://wilmington.craigslist.org/mcy/1665071242.html
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Apr 2, 2010 00:20
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infraboy posted:How are 98+ Honda VFRs? They sound like really solid and reliable bikes and everyone that has one seems to love it. I've actually grown quite fond of the F4i, but used prices on them seem kinda high and a lot of them seem to have been lowslided at last once in their lives, the ones that haven't seem aburdly high in price. Most importantly, the gear-driven cam noise sounds like pure awesome. 
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Apr 2, 2010 00:38
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Z3n posted:Seems fair and like a good choice...but you need to make sure it's street legal. Yeah, turns it's not. What through me off was that it's registered. Apparently off-road vehicles are registered in this state. Guh. Found a 94 DR 350 for $2000 , but this seems like a bit much for an old bike, given that I saw a newer KLR 650 last week for $1800 that seemed like it was in better shape (though it was sold within about 2 hours of being posted).
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Apr 2, 2010 01:49
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Endless Mike posted:I just got a 98 VFR following an SV650. The first thing I noticed is that it's noticeably heavier. The numbers don't lie. It's perfectly fine at speed, though. The hydraulic clutch and linked brakes take some getting used to and the latter makes maintenance a bit more of a hassle than regular brakes (just based on reading the service manual). It came with a Sargent seat which is WAY more comfortable than the stock SV's seat, and supposedly the stock VFR seat is pretty good, although I haven't actually put it on to confirm. They're mostly owned by older people than a typical supersport, so finding one in good condition isn't terribly difficult. They're also supposed to be very, very reliable. People on various forums report over 100k with no problems and regular maintenance. The V4 configuration makes things a little harder than an I4, but the 98+ are fuel-injected, so there's no carb work to mess with (which was apparently stupidly annoying on earlier models). Insurance is a little cheaper than the SV, about $100/year less for the same coverage, although I'm probably going to cut a bunch since full coverage on a 12 year old bike is kind of silly. The VFR is one of the all time great bikes. Does everything well, with no weak points. (Even though I hate, and mean hate, linked brakes. But those can be changed for a bit of money if you are so inclined.) As for insurance, if it's that cheap, why not go full coverage? Or at least close to it? After all, fairings are expensive. Very expensive. Especially factory fairings. And, oh yeah, that gear drive sound is fantastic.
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Apr 2, 2010 04:30
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Flint Ironstag posted:The VFR is one of the all time great bikes. Does everything well, with no weak points. (Even though I hate, and mean hate, linked brakes. But those can be changed for a bit of money if you are so inclined.) Why do you hate linked brakes? (Not a leading question, I'm curious since I've never had a bike with them.)
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Apr 2, 2010 14:29
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So I can't for the life of me track down a used DL 650 within a days ride of me. All the ones on ADV are on the west coast. Anyone have any suggestions for a similar type bike which has the euro dual sport style?
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Apr 2, 2010 15:44
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I loved and miss my VFR and it was the 6th-gen (lamest of them, new one not withstanding). I had to have a supersport though. 
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Apr 2, 2010 16:16
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My buddy had an '85 VFR1000 back when they were considered sportbikes and not sport-tourers. I liked it, it was really big, though - I could barely get a toe down and I'm 5'9". The only newer VFR I like is the 2007 Anniversary edition, that poo poo is hot.
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Apr 2, 2010 17:18
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AnimalChin posted:Other options: I'd go with the EX500 there. Another good, reliable starter bike, bonus for being the original owner, and a good price.
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Apr 2, 2010 19:31
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Doctor Zero posted:Why do you hate linked brakes? (Not a leading question, I'm curious since I've never had a bike with them.) Fair enough question, and "hate" might have been a bit strong on my part. Put me down in the "seriously do not like" category. I want to be able to control both sets of brakes independently, as the situation requires. I may not want any front brake actuation while I'm feathering the rear in a parking lot, and under hard braking too much rear will lock up that wheel. I understand that there is a proportioning valve that helps with all of that, but I still trust my own instincts more than a mechanical helper. While it takes a lot of practice, a lot of studying, and then a lot more practice, developing the skills to brake (or do anything else on a bike) properly WILL save your life someday and make it more fun. The most important reason for me, though, is feel. None of the LBS equipped bikes I've ridden felt right to me.
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Apr 3, 2010 02:02
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:My buddy had an '85 VFR1000 back when they were considered sportbikes and not sport-tourers. I liked it, it was really big, though - I could barely get a toe down and I'm 5'9". http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/1664670684.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/1667482880.html Argh 2 really solid deals to what look like good condition bikes, I have money.... totally can't justify having 3 bikes though.
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Apr 3, 2010 02:38
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The second one is where it's at. I have a friend who has a VFR of that generation, I had the chance to take it for a long ride once, and man, what a nice bike. It's the gentleman's sportbike, for sure. Sounds nice, sits upright and comfortable for day long riding, can rip up the twisties just fine...it's a good bike. If I had to have one do it all bike, it'd be high on the list. Only downside is apparently with the V4 and Vtachs it's a bitch to adjust the valves.
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Apr 3, 2010 04:20
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The VTACKS valves are a much bigger pain to adjust, they have the cam chain tensioner issues of other, similar vintage Hondas, they're heavier, and don't sound as awesome. That said, they're still great bikes. I'm just biased.
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Apr 3, 2010 05:00
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The gear driven ones are awesome, but I love the styling of the Vtax models the best.
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Apr 3, 2010 05:11
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I've owned two 5th gen VFRs - they're very nice bikes if you want something sporty but comfortable. The only real knock I have against them is their fuel injection is not the greatest. They tend to surge a little right when you crack the throttle, there are some fixes out there for it. I found the power commander fix works reasonably well. I'd also say that my 2nd VFR didn't surge nearly as much as the first. Maybe the 2000 model got a slight tweak? I'm no totally sure. I don't really see how anyone can hate on the linked brake system. I sort of thought it would be a pain but I don't think I ever had the bike act strangely under braking. Bleeding the system is a bit more involved but overall the brakes are quite good. I did a number of straight line emergency brake checks when I got the first one and I'm pretty sure you'd have to try like mad to lock the rear with just the front brake. You could ask on the vfr forums but I'd say it's practically impossible. From a feel perspective I had an R6 for a while with steel lines that definitely had better feel. The brakes are not amazing on the bike, but they aren't something that should stop you from buying the bike. Bird-o-matic mentions the FZ6 and z750 as alternatives which I think are sort of odd choices. The VFR was/is a top of the line Honda so a budget standards aren't really a good comparison. For what the VFR was made for it does very well - almost to the point of being boring. It's not a very quick turning bike but it's stable as hell and very easy to ride. The 5th gen runs on 87 and has something like a 200 mile range. If you want a bike that handles pretty drat well that doesn't have the comfort issues a sportbike has a VFR is a great choice. I currently own an Aprilia Falco and if you want something that is similar to a VFR but sportier I'd look into those. They can be had for the 4s all day long now. You'll need heli-bars and probably some buell footpegs on it to get it somewhat close to the comfort of the VFR. That $2900 one is a real bargain in my opinion - especially with the luggage.
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Apr 3, 2010 05:42
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Cheesemaster200 posted:So I can't for the life of me track down a used DL 650 within a days ride of me. All the ones on ADV are on the west coast. Anyone have any suggestions for a similar type bike which has the euro dual sport style? The simple solution here is a fly-n-ride.
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Apr 3, 2010 06:12
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On the subject of VFRs... what the hell is this guy on BARF thinking trying to sell this? http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329290 I made a post.... but it seems like he wants 6000$ CASH AND take over 6000$ worth of payments on a bike that msrp'd for under 12000$ in 2008? Seems pretty absurd for a 2 year old bike thats been tipped over once or twice apparently.
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Apr 3, 2010 08:55
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infraboy posted:On the subject of VFRs... what the hell is this guy on BARF thinking trying to sell this? (Well, that might not be the case in CA due to your silly laws, but still.)
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Apr 3, 2010 17:24
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Even with this years oddly high prices, $12k buys you a new VFR. I woukd ask where people get their pricing ideas but I know already. Go to the stealership, read CL, and instantly your bike is worth millions. Price it reasonable like and it sells in hours. With the economy in the state it's in, I'd expect bike prices all over to be depressed and I am not seeing that at all.
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Apr 3, 2010 17:27
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infraboy posted:On the subject of VFRs... what the hell is this guy on BARF thinking trying to sell this? This is one of the dumbest things about BARF. You can't comment on price in threads. Makes for some fun seeing what you can get away with though. But people are children about taking price advice.
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Apr 3, 2010 19:38
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I've heard that the average of the KBB trade in and sale prices gives you a good starting point for a price. However, I'd say the vast majority of dual sport bikes on craigslist I've seen in the last couple of weeks are being offered for a substantially higher starting price. Take for example this 1994 DR350 selling for $2000 supposedly well serviced with 6,500 miles: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/1670502810.html The KBB sale price is $1290. Even that dealer price is a lot lower than what that guy is asking. The mileage is pretty low for being that old, but even so it doesn't match the rule of thumb metric even remotely. Am I being too picky in believing that a reasonable DR350 or DRZ400 will come along that's in the $1200 to $1500 range?
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Apr 4, 2010 18:12
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Cry For More Fish posted:I've heard that the average of the KBB trade in and sale prices gives you a good starting point for a price. However, I'd say the vast majority of dual sport bikes on craigslist I've seen in the last couple of weeks are being offered for a substantially higher starting price. A street legal DRZ400 is unlikely unless you're going to take on a project, but a DR350 should be available in that range. It's the start of the season so prices are really inflated, I'd show up and politely lowball people with cash in hand. If they don't take it, no biggy.
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Apr 4, 2010 18:36
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Ok, so I finally found a loving DL650 in Bumblefuck, PA that I like. However, I am unsure how this work as far as titling and excise tax is concerned. First, the Maryland MVA is cryptic at best: http://www.mva.maryland.gov/VehicleServ/REG/NewtoMd.htm They say that you have to pay a 6% excise tax if the bike is recently purchased, however they then go to say that if the sales tax in PA is the same as MD (it is) you only have to pay a $100 fee. I am unsure how they define "recently purchased". Second, if I buy the bike in PA and then ride it down to MD, I would technically have to ride it unregistered, correct? Is there some way I can get a temporary tag or something? How does this usually work? interstate commerce!
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Apr 5, 2010 16:39
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Are you buying from a private seller? If so, you'll pay MD excise tax when you register it. That provision is basically or if you move from PA to MD shortly after buying. The seller may be able to get you a temp tag from PA or you nay be able to do it yourself, but you cab probably get away with riding it unregistered as long as you get a bill of sale to show any potential cops.
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Apr 5, 2010 16:47
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Endless Mike posted:Are you buying from a private seller? If so, you'll pay MD excise tax when you register it. That provision is basically or if you move from PA to MD shortly after buying. The seller may be able to get you a temp tag from PA or you nay be able to do it yourself, but you cab probably get away with riding it unregistered as long as you get a bill of sale to show any potential cops. How do they calculate the excise tax when registering it though? That's what confuses me. Can't I just say I bought the thing for $2000 and give the guy cash for what I actually paid for it? The Bill of Sale form from the MVA also requires a notary public. I can't see people getting a notary public for all these over the counter motorcycle transactions. Cheesemaster200 fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 16:53
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Cheesemaster200 posted:Yeah, a private seller. The only problem with it if you did something like that would be that you end up going to court over something about the cost of the bike, and you end up trying to recover more than that amount in damages. And the fraud. But it's a pretty common occurrence in CA for people to mark down the price at a reasonable amount much lower than purchase price.
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Apr 5, 2010 16:57
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Z3n posted:
Gotcha. I have no problem paying the tax (its only like $200), it just seems like I am missing something because of the willy-nilly approach to this. Usually when the state is taxing you, they have a very concrete set procedure to get their money.
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Apr 5, 2010 17:12
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Cheesemaster200 posted:Gotcha. I have no problem paying the tax (its only like $200), it just seems like I am missing something because of the willy-nilly approach to this. Usually when the state is taxing you, they have a very concrete set procedure to get their money. In CA, you just go into the DMV, present your paperwork, and they just calculate it and take their pound of flesh.
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Apr 5, 2010 17:14
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http://buffalo.craigslist.org/mcy/1673574243.html Is this just asking for trouble?
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Apr 5, 2010 17:36
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Cheesemaster200 posted:Ok, so I finally found a loving DL650 in Bumblefuck, PA that I like. However, I am unsure how this work as far as titling and excise tax is concerned. If it works like a car you'll need a bill of sale, if from a private party paid with cash I think you just need the title (I think) notarized and you'll tell the DMV what you paid, if the number is too low it can cause some headaches from what I've heard. When you transfer the title in PA, at a AAA or something if you're a member (they do it for free, just did it this weekend in PA for a bike) or a notary. They should be able to give you 30 day temp/transit tags so you can get it back to MD. You'll have to show proof of insurance. Temp tags cost like $10 I think. You can ride around with those tags before you get it inspected. You'll have to have it inspected to register in MD, so show up at the DMV with all the forms you need already filled out, and your inspection form and you'll be in and out in 20 minutes (if there isn't a huge rear end line). It was pretty painless for me when I bought a truck in PA and registered in MD. You won't pay the tax in PA, you'll pay it when you register everything in MD. I'm going to be going through this at the MD MVA when in the next day or two so I'll let you know how it goes if you care enough. Also, if you get a bike 20 (25?) years old or older you can register it historic and not have to get inspections/emissions or whatever they do for bikes in MD. What year is the bike? E: Also I think this is the page you want to be looking at http://www.mva.maryland.gov/VehicleServ/REG/titlereg.htm And I think you'll need to bring this/fill it out when you transfer the title so it's notarized. http://www.mva.maryland.gov/Resources/VR-181.pdf That is your bill of sale for the private sale. Plinkey fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 17:48
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The Wonder Weapon posted:http://buffalo.craigslist.org/mcy/1673574243.html It's stupid overpriced. But they're good bikes. I wouldn't pay more than 2k for a 10 year old rebuilt/salvage GSX-R750.
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Apr 5, 2010 18:28
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Z3n posted:It's stupid overpriced. But they're good bikes. I wouldn't pay more than 2k for a 10 year old rebuilt/salvage GSX-R750. Ok. I emailed him and said I liked it, but thought $3k was too much, and that if he was willing to talk about something closer to 2, I would come see him. I don't expect him to, though. Overall, what's the rule of thumb with salvage titles? Is it one of those "avoid at all costs unless you are a mechanic and even then be careful" type things, or "bikes in fine shape get them for no reason sometimes and it's situational." This particular guy seemed pretty straightforward about it, as opposed to some shady dude selling an obvious stunt bike and refraining from mentioning the salvage title until it comes time to sign. But if "salvage=bad" all the time, I'll definitely stay away.
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Apr 5, 2010 18:36
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Fairings are so expensive to replace, and the initial purchase price of the bike is oftentimes so low that they'll get salvaged in a parkinglot tipover. There was a 2009 TW200 on CL here in Denver recently that got salvaged out of a 0 MPH tipover. Minor (invisible in photos taken from 10') cosmetic damage to the plastics and pegs, some minor paintscratch on the tail rack. I was absolutely flabbergasted that the insurance company wrote it off for what I think most people would consider to be "typical" scratches/damage for any used dirt-oriented bike. I wish I'd had the money at the time. It was a cool bike for a rock bottom price.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:46
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok. I emailed him and said I liked it, but thought $3k was too much, and that if he was willing to talk about something closer to 2, I would come see him. I don't expect him to, though. It's very much an individual basis. The biggest thing to remember about salvage titles is they're a bitch to sell, generally. Unless you're willing to offer a killer deal, it's not gonna sell, because most people look at salvage title and see "stay the gently caress away". So unless you get a totally killer deal, it's not worth buying if there's even the smallest chance of you selling it. And it's not worth buying unless you get a killer deal. For reference, I sold a 2006 ZX636R in great shape for 3450$ with a salvage title. As to how worthwhile it is, it's gonna depend on the bike and the person who rebuilt it. I obviously trusted my rebuild, but you never know who's doing it. I also only kinda 50/50 buy his story. If all that was bent was the frame slider mount, why was it computracked? Why are the fairings different colors from stock? So...there's some questions I'd want answered before I went for it, and anything over 2500$ would be a huge ripoff in my book. As I said, it'd have to be closer to 2000$ for me to buy it. I just bought a 2001 ZX9R for 450$ with a salvage title and no plastics, plus some other minor damage. It just doesn't seem worth it at anything over 2k.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:58
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Overall, what's the rule of thumb with salvage titles? Is it one of those "avoid at all costs unless you are a mechanic and even then be careful" type things, or "bikes in fine shape get them for no reason sometimes and it's situational." This particular guy seemed pretty straightforward about it, as opposed to some shady dude selling an obvious stunt bike and refraining from mentioning the salvage title until it comes time to sign. But if "salvage=bad" all the time, I'll definitely stay away. pasting my saved salvage title post... Anyway, in a nutshell - 1. Salvage vehicles' salvage title can never be laundered. This means that you'll always have one, and the resale value may suffer. 2. Salvage vehicles are vehicles that an insurance company or whomever have written off as a total loss. It could be that the vehicle just had enough cosmetic damage to make it not worth fixing, or it could mean that it got hit by a train. Most states require that the person retitling a salvage vehicle provide a list of what was repaired to get it road-worthy again and also pass an inspection. What this means to you, is that you want to see this list of exactly what was fixed. This will give you a starting point of things to take a closer look at. Ask for receipts and pictures. If they can't provide them, proceed cautiously. 3. Having said that, there may be things that didn't get documented. Get a Carfax and take the thing to a 3rd party inspection. If the seller won't let you, walk away. They're pulling something. 4. Go in with your eyes open. You are buying a vehicle of questionable history, of questionable condition, and of questionable resale value. If you understand and don't care about all that, go ahead. 5. Goes with all vehicles, but double for salvage ones, if they don't have a clean rebuilt/salvage title in-hand, walk away. Pay attention to the title. The vehicle should already be good to go on the road. Good luck!
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Apr 5, 2010 21:36
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Doctor Zero posted:pasting my saved salvage title post... This is all good advice, and let me add that having a reliable third party look at it is a must. Not just a friend, no matter how knowledgeable. I've been that friend, since I'm a professional auto tech who loves bikes and has been riding since shortly after the earth cooled. In my own defense, I did pretty well helping my friends buy bikes. Until that fateful day one particular friend took me to look at an early 80's Katana. It was cosmetically perfect, and a mechanical basket case. I got distracted ("Ooooo, pretty!") and he bought it. I even brought my stethoscope with me. Should have used it. In retrospect, it would have been perfect for me. I would have spent a bunch of time fixing up the go/stop/turn parts (my strong point) and not had to worry about the shiny bits (my weak point). Edit: speeling
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Apr 6, 2010 02:56
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Thank you for all the advice regarding the titles. It has been quite informative, and I will keep it in mind for future purchases. I'm talking to this guy now: http://buffalo.craigslist.org/mcy/1677010723.html I know it's riced up, so I would ask him a lot of questions about how it's been ridden. The ad isn't in all caps lock, and uses punctuation, so it's already heads and shoulders more respectable than most I see. He said he's ok with $2800. He said the back tire does need to be replaced, and would run a few hundred bucks to match the front. Is it necessary to match the back to the front? I don't think I did that on my last bike.
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Apr 6, 2010 04:01
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