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Blaster of Justice posted:What's wrong with it? Most likely a missing gasket over the reed valve. It runs like hell at high rpm, but goes firghteningly lean at low rpms. I'm going to test that hypothesis this weekend. If I'm right, I have a 50mph peugeot.
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Apr 1, 2010 19:34
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:59 |
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Unreal Fantasy posted:this:
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Apr 5, 2010 16:23
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Buy the hobbit and for 250 bucks in parts you've got a 50mph bike.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:51
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I was just basically given a treats 70cc kit for my Puch.  Gotta get my ZA50 casematched and that thing ON.
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Apr 5, 2010 20:28
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So I finally managed to order a new carburetor. Hey you guys probably remember me as the guy who doesn't know anything but is desperately in love with mopeds. So I just ordered myself a dellorto 14:12 carburetor to replace my cracked 12:12 carb. Now I am told that since it is 14:12 I need to shim it. I do not, however, know what shimming fully entails or how to do it properly for a carb to an engine. I really hope that with this new carb in, my engine will finally run but I am worried. This bike has ended up being much more of a mess than I thought. I cleaned a lot out of the fuel tank, redid some of the fuel lines, scowered over the old carb only to find a crack, making it useless. Cleaned the engine inside and out as best I can, although not really much inside cause I am afraid of mucking about too much in there. I still don't have an exhaust system (just exhausts right outta the engine) and no chain but I am waiting to make sure I can get my engine running too. Oh also I am concerned that my ignition coil is shot, my spark plugs have been hand sanded and look nice and pretty. I don't know where I can get my hands on a multi-meter to check the ignition coil also...  Basically, I am scared I will never see my baby ride.
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Apr 7, 2010 07:59
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You need to get an exhaust ASAP. If you run without one, you will seize. Shimming isn't hard at all; it's one of those things you'll need to experience before you really get the idea, I suppose. The inner diameter of your carb body is 2mm bigger than the intake you have on the bike. Shimming will involve taking up that space, preferably with something that keeps it air tight so you don't have leaks. Maybe, if you're super cheap, you can cut an old innertube and use that. Have you tried to find an appropriate intake at Treats? I'd be surprised if he doesn't have one. And you can get an exhaust while you're at it. You can check to see if you have spark by having the plug connected to the coil but not in the head. Leave it resting against a metal part of the engine so it's grounded, and try to start the bike. You should see sparks (if it's dark enough out), and if you do, electrical is working fine. The moped army gets poo poo on around here (and with sometimes good reason), but the resources section of their site has a good deal of info that may be of use. I'd suggest reading through that and being more confident. After all, these are not overly complicated, and you're doing well so far. Don't get overwhelmed just cuz you haven't figured everything out yet. It'll all come with time.
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Apr 7, 2010 14:43
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Shlomo Palestein posted:You need to get an exhaust ASAP. If you run without one, you will seize. What is Treats? Also I am aware of the problem with not having an exhaust, but would it be possible to start the engine at all? I just wanna make sure the thing works before shelling out more cash for an exhaust pipe. Right now, all it does (with the broken carb) is turn the engine and leak fuel. No ignition. If I get ignition, I get an exhaust you see.
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Apr 7, 2010 19:19
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Senator Woofington posted:What is Treats? Also I am aware of the problem with not having an exhaust, but would it be possible to start the engine at all? I just wanna make sure the thing works before shelling out more cash for an exhaust pipe. Right now, all it does (with the broken carb) is turn the engine and leak fuel. No ignition. If I get ignition, I get an exhaust you see. It may fire, but it wont run anywhere near correctly. Treats is http://www.treatland.tv/
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Apr 7, 2010 19:24
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Phat_Albert posted:It may fire, but it wont run anywhere near correctly. What if I blocked part of the exhaust port with something that'll seal part of it closed, that way I should be giving it some back pressure right? edit: Also treats doesn't have any proper 14 intakes. They also have very expsensive exhuasts for my ped whereas 1977moped.com has an exhaust for only 30 bucks.
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Apr 7, 2010 19:57
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What kind of ped is this, Woofington? Depending, you might be able to get something off another ped with the same exhaust; otherwise, I'd go with the stock exhaust from 77 mopeds if that's the cheapest.
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Apr 7, 2010 20:49
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Shlomo Palestein posted:What kind of ped is this, Woofington? Depending, you might be able to get something off another ped with the same exhaust; otherwise, I'd go with the stock exhaust from 77 mopeds if that's the cheapest. An old derbi 1977 TT Variant. I have no other peds unfortunately, this is my first one! And money is the issue here ATM, otherwise I would of already ordered me an exhaust. edit: Is blocking off part of the exhaust a bad idea? double mega edit: Treats is a cool place.
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Apr 7, 2010 22:47
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Senator Woofington posted:What if I blocked part of the exhaust port with something that'll seal part of it closed, that way I should be giving it some back pressure right? I don't think you know how a two stroke engine works. Short answer: No.
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Apr 8, 2010 13:48
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The Derbi apparently uses its own engine (rather than some Puch/Minarelli/whatever engine). You're either gonna be stuck getting the stock exhaust from '77 mopeds or a performance exhaust from Treats. In your case, I'd recommend the former; you want to be confident in how the moped actually runs before you go tearing it up to make it better. And yes, you need an exhaust. If you jerry-rig anything involving the fuel delivery or exhaust on a 2-stroke you are asking for something to break. The exhaust on a 2-stroke is very important; you'll notice a lot of performance pipes with large chambers or weird, curvy slug-looking things. These are "expansion chambers." Long story short, exhaust gasses are not entirely combusted, and due to the shape of these chambers, they can be reflected back in pulses to be added to the intake charge. You get slightly better power out of the engine when this occurs, and it occurs usually only in a particular rev range (too fast or too slow and the exhaust will not be bounced back in time to get taken in on the intake stroke). Blocking off the exhaust doesn't do anything to help anything; it just makes the exhaust gasses exit oddly. Leaving it open also causes issues with what's going out and coming in. Wikipedia has a decent article on two-strokes with accompanied gifs; I'd take a look at that to get the basics, go to Moped Army and look through the articles on how to fix things up, and go from there. You're out of luck on an exact intake, so just use some old bicycle innertube as a shim, clamp the carb onto the intake, and when you get things started check for leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the seams. If the revs change, you know you have a leak.
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Apr 8, 2010 14:27
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it really really upsets me that you have a Derbi and I don't when you are talking about running it exhaust-less.....
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Apr 8, 2010 15:34
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ShaneB posted:it really really upsets me that you have a Derbi and I don't when you are talking about running it exhaust-less..... Man cut me some slack! If you had a choice to start on a derbi would you? I didn't know any better when I got involved, and I still don't know much about engines / automobiles/ mopeds. But I am learning a ton. I really wanna be able to love and know mopeds like all of you! double edit: OK, I think I understand how an exhaust helps the efficiency of an engine. My only question is, will my derbi run at all without an exhaust? All I want to do is make sure I can get ignition in the engine before shelling out another lump of cash for an exhaust. Of course if I do get ignition, the exhaust will be ordered forth with! I don't wanna damage my engine by running it without an exhaust. Senator Woofington fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 21:48
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You can try to start it without an exhaust, certainly. I don't believe it will affect the longevity of the engine if you let it idle for an EXTREMELY short period of time at that point. The second you get spark, stop the engine and order an exhaust. But really, you should be trying my lay-the-sparkplug-on-the-engine technique, as that'll show you if you have spark just as well as anything without the risk of burning anything out or causing issues with mechanical bits. You don't even need fuel to check spark. George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 22:16
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Senator Woofington posted:Man cut me some slack! If you had a choice to start on a derbi would you? I didn't know any better when I got involved, and I still don't know much about engines / automobiles/ mopeds. But I am learning a ton. Give me the Derbi for a few hundred and get yourself a Puch. Where do you live?
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Apr 8, 2010 23:30
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ShaneB posted:Give me the Derbi for a few hundred and get yourself a Puch. Where do you live? Southen California. But I really like it for a project and to learn with! Shlomo Palestein posted:You can try to start it without an exhaust, certainly. I don't believe it will affect the longevity of the engine if you let it idle for an EXTREMELY short period of time at that point. The second you get spark, stop the engine and order an exhaust. Thanks man. I'll do that. I just wanna make sure that the engine or the new carb is not the issue so I wanna make sure I can fully get the engine running. I am going to test the spark plug now to make sure that works, but my engine's integrity itself, as well as this new carburator, are still up in the air. Edit: Hmmm it the spark plug doesn't appear to be sparking. Which means either my ignition coil is shot, the spark plug itself is shot or the points on my engine are shot. Curses! What would be the best way to go about figuring out this mystery? Senator Woofington fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Apr 9, 2010 07:00
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Put a new spark plug in it for starters, thats the cheapest and easiest thing to do.
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Apr 9, 2010 15:29
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I'm putting a cheap, old, unused treats 70cc kit I got from a buddy on my bike this weekend. Wish me luck.
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Apr 9, 2010 15:33
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Chamfer it before you throw it on.
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Apr 9, 2010 17:10
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Chamfer it before you throw it on. like bevel the edges of the interior ports? Makes sense. I'm case matching, too, of course.
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Apr 9, 2010 17:26
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edit: ^^^ I'm guessing your not in southern cali?Phat_Albert posted:Put a new spark plug in it for starters, thats the cheapest and easiest thing to do. There any good sites for spark plugs? When I first got this old derbi finding a new spark plug was the first thing I tried, and no where in town had a matching one.
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Apr 9, 2010 18:11
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Senator Woofington posted:edit: ^^^ I'm guessing your not in southern cali? Sadly, no. Or maybe happily. Do derbis take something beside the standard $2 NGK stuff?
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Apr 9, 2010 18:15
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ShaneB posted:Sadly, no. Or maybe happily. Not to frustrate you any more with this answer but I have no idea. I don't even know what NGK is...
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Apr 9, 2010 18:39
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Senator Woofington posted:Not to frustrate you any more with this answer but I have no idea. I don't even know what NGK is... stop now and sell your moped to someone who knows how to do research
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Apr 9, 2010 18:43
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Dude seriously, there are cross references at every hardware store for spark plugs. Take your plug there and have them cross reference it to whatever brand they carry. It doesnt have to be an NGK. Agreed, research some of this stuff, we cant physically drive you to the hardware store, so you're on your own for that.
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Apr 9, 2010 18:51
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Also: Mopeds and small motorcycles do not tend to use the actual cap at the end of the plug (the one that the wire snaps on to). I did not know this starting out, but you can use pliers to just unscrew that from the top. I'm not sure of the actual term for this piece, but it is on the exact opposite end of the plug as the part that actually sparks, and the one on your moped likely already has it unscrewed. Here, I painted something: This is with the thing removed:  This is the thing: 
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Apr 9, 2010 20:13
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Also: Mopeds and small motorcycles do not tend to use the actual cap at the end of the plug (the one that the wire snaps on to). I did not know this starting out, but you can use pliers to just unscrew that from the top. I'm not sure of the actual term for this piece, but it is on the exact opposite end of the plug as the part that actually sparks, and the one on your moped likely already has it unscrewed. yeah when I got my first replacement plug I was like WTF
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Apr 9, 2010 20:17
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The guy at the motorcycle shop was understanding, but I know the second I left (mind having sufficiently been blown), he was like "hey guys, that kid didn't know about the sparkplugs" and they all had a (deserved) laugh.
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Apr 9, 2010 21:05
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Shlomo Palestein posted:The guy at the motorcycle shop was understanding, but I know the second I left (mind having sufficiently been blown), he was like "hey guys, that kid didn't know about the sparkplugs" and they all had a (deserved) laugh. I didn't even know spark plugs existed with ends like that 
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Apr 9, 2010 21:22
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Phat_Albert posted:Dude seriously, there are cross references at every hardware store for spark plugs. Take your plug there and have them cross reference it to whatever brand they carry. It doesnt have to be an NGK. I did this. A while ago infact. The guy said they did not have any plugs that matched what I needed, and non of their stores nearby had any either. It was a pepboys. My does not have that thing on the end, so good to know and thanks for the help. Guess I'll figure out how to check my points and my ignition coil.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:50
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Z3n posted:I didn't even know spark plugs existed with ends like that I've never seen anything else?
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Apr 10, 2010 09:24
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Welp. Case matched more or less, put on the kit, upjetted 10 on the carb... bike doesn't start. At all. No putt, no noise, just hard pedaling while holding the clutch. I grabbed the cable so hard it broke in half, so I had to run to the bike shop to get a replacement made. Any advice? Did I upjet too much? Not enough?
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Apr 11, 2010 02:35
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ShaneB posted:Welp. Case matched more or less, put on the kit, upjetted 10 on the carb... bike doesn't start. At all. No putt, no noise, just hard pedaling while holding the clutch. I grabbed the cable so hard it broke in half, so I had to run to the bike shop to get a replacement made. check your points/timing.
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Apr 11, 2010 09:39
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Unreal Fantasy posted:check your points/timing. Why would my timing get messed up putting on a kit? Slightly off timing wouldn't make a previously perfectly running bike NOT START, that makes no sense.
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Apr 11, 2010 13:33
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ShaneB posted:Why would my timing get messed up putting on a kit? Slightly off timing wouldn't make a previously perfectly running bike NOT START, that makes no sense. You've got ignition? Test your spark plug before we rape your carburetor.
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Apr 11, 2010 20:39
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Blaster of Justice posted:You've got ignition? Test your spark plug before we rape your carburetor. Yeah, I'm wondering if the upjetting I did somehow hosed the carb or a particle got in there. Fuel is getting to the carb, this I know, but the cylinder was dry besides the oil I put on the piston/cylinder.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:56
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Got my first moped today, 2005 Tomos Targa LX in white. So excitied to get my M1 license and get this thing on the road. Pic is not me but the bike. Also : Dumb question, but how do I use the wheel lock? 
vincentpricesboner fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Apr 12, 2010 |
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Apr 11, 2010 23:45
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:59 |
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Put the stock cylinder back on today, rejetted back to normal. Before I put it back on, I ground the piston skirts up on the parts that work with the transfers, so that they fully clear the transfers at TDC, and took the intake piston skirt up maybe a half mm. Got about 3mph more on the flats.
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Apr 12, 2010 00:17
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