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Ola posted:Does it happen at a set speed, regardless of rpm/gear? If so it's probably wheel balance. It's very noticeable in the 65mph+ range, and by that point I'm in fifth gear at 5000+ rpm. I haven't noticed a gas smell from the exhaust, but I'll pay closer attention. I'll take a look at the spark plugs too.
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Apr 8, 2010 12:34
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Ola posted:As for your mileage, does the exhaust smell of gas? Take out a few spark plugs and see how they look. Chocolate brown = good. I just checked mine yesterday, and I'd call them black...time for new ones?
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Apr 8, 2010 14:10
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Plinkey posted:I just checked mine yesterday, and I'd call them black...time for new ones? You're burning rich. Could be weak sparks or too rich fuel/air mixture. If the plugs are wet it's the sparks. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 14:39
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Plinkey posted:I just checked mine yesterday, and I'd call them black...time for new ones? If all of them are black then yes you are burning rich and it dries up pretty quickly. But they could be black from prolonged idling the last time the bike ran, so a good test is to ride around normally and then check them right away. A more advanced check is the "plug chop" which tests individual carb circuits by running in that circuit (throttle setting) then hitting the kill switch and coasting to a stop with the clutch in to check right away. Anyway, the first thing I'd check is the air filter. If it's clogged up, you run rich.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:06
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Ola posted:If all of them are black then yes you are burning rich and it dries up pretty quickly. But they could be black from prolonged idling the last time the bike ran, so a good test is to ride around normally and then check them right away. A more advanced check is the "plug chop" which tests individual carb circuits by running in that circuit (throttle setting) then hitting the kill switch and coasting to a stop with the clutch in to check right away. Just pulled the air filter out last weekend, and it was dirty as poo poo. Hadn't been off the bike in at least 8 years. Ordered some POD filters which should be here today or tomorrow so I'm going to strap them on this weekend. I'm also waiting on new front brake caliper because the bleed nipple screw thing on one is rusted in place and stripped all to hell. I'm sure that there is air in the brake lines so I'm not too confident about riding it at the moment. I'll check the plugs again after I get all that fixed and get it back on the road instead of just idling in front of my house.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:14
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Plinkey posted:Just pulled the air filter out last weekend, and it was dirty as poo poo. Hadn't been off the bike in at least 8 years. Ordered some POD filters which should be here today or tomorrow so I'm going to strap them on this weekend. Bear in mind that if the bike doesn't already have pod filters you're going to have to rejet the carbs or the bike will run real lovely, possibly engine hurting lovely. Pods are a huge pain in the rear end for most bikes.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:23
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8ender posted:Bear in mind that if the bike doesn't already have pod filters you're going to have to rejet the carbs or the bike will run real lovely, possibly engine hurting lovely. Pods are a huge pain in the rear end for most bikes. This I realize. I've had the bike for about 8 years, and just now starting to do some wrenching on it. I figure better to learn some stuff on a 30 year old bike then something newer.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:27
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Plinkey posted:This I realize. I've had the bike for about 8 years, and just now starting to do some wrenching on it. I figure better to learn some stuff on a 30 year old bike then something newer. Fair enough. You may actually have an easier time since the bike is older. Best bet is to look around online and see if anyone else has nailed the right combination of jets for pod filters on your bike and use that as a start. Also not a bad idea to get either a boxed kit of different jets or at least a few sizes richer than your stock mains and pilots.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:34
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Plinkey posted:Ordered some POD filters which should be here today or tomorrow so I'm going to strap them on this weekend. Congratulations, now you're running lean and all over the place. Before you destroy your airbox, I'd try a stock one. If a stock foamie is too expensive, K&N have cheap drop-in replacements. Which can also add up to 50 hp!* * if replacing an oil soaked rag stuffed into the intake.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:34
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8ender posted:Fair enough. You may actually have an easier time since the bike is older. Best bet is to look around online and see if anyone else has nailed the right combination of jets for pod filters on your bike and use that as a start. Also not a bad idea to get either a boxed kit of different jets or at least a few sizes richer than your stock mains and pilots. I've done some looking around and found a kit from dynojet http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3306.pdf, comes with 3 different jets. There is a possibility that the carbs were already jetted by the PO, he put a new pipe on at some point and from talking to a few buddies from work it seems that it's been running rich since I got it (really sluggish from idle -> 3500ish rpm then it picks up). I thought this was just normal because I basically just road it and didn't do anything other than oil changed since 2002. Carbs could be all gunked up too...going to take them off this weekend if I've got the time. Is there a way to tell if I'm running stock jets or not? Ola posted:Congratulations, now you're running lean and all over the place. Before you destroy your airbox, I'd try a stock one. If a stock foamie is too expensive, K&N have cheap drop-in replacements. Which can also add up to 50 hp!* I'll keep the airbox in one piece and replace it with a stock foamie if I get in over my head.
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Apr 8, 2010 15:58
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Plinkey posted:Is there a way to tell if I'm running stock jets or not? Best way is to look up the specs and read the numbers on the jets inside the carb. They should have a small number pressed into the sides.
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Apr 8, 2010 16:32
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I was changing my oil, and managed to round off the fargin' bolt for the oil filter cover. What's the best way to get that sucker out? EDIT: answer was "take it to a shop." Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 21:43
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Whats the recommended oil for a GSXR-400? I usually just use "Motorcycle oil 10-40" from canadian tire for my KLR, but the new bike rev's higher and I dont' know if it needs something different.
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Apr 8, 2010 23:39
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Chris Knight posted:I was changing my oil, and managed to round off the fargin' bolt for the oil filter cover. What's the best way to get that sucker out? There's a lot of options if your edit isn't serious. blindjoe, oil is one of those things...If you're paranoid, I'd run any motorcycle specific synthetic.
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Apr 8, 2010 23:59
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On a separate note, what's the deal with shifting without the clutch? I've seen it mentioned a few times, but seems like it would be bad for the bike.
orthod0ks fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Apr 9, 2010 03:09
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So I just received my Pitbull SS rear stand today and was wondering about chain drives. I set it up to work on my F2 swing arm and it was surprisingly easy to get it up the first time because I was a bit nervous about tipping the bike over. Is replacing a chain and sprockets pretty easy? This video seems to cover it all pretty well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5BAojcQq6o I wouldn't really need a dremmel tool to cut the chain link would I? It seems like this kit would have everything needed to remove and rivet a new chain on. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/21457/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Chain-Breaker--Press-and-Riveting-Tool.aspx or http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4893/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Chain-Riveting-Tool-Kit.aspx I'm not really sure what the main differences between the 2 tool sets are besides 20$. Also can anyone explain how changing either the front or rear sprocket # of teeth would affect gearing ? It seems rather confusing when someone says -1 up front and +2 in the rear or something of that nature. I'm perfectly happy with whatever the current stock settings are. Also looks like I can just buy a chain and sprocket as an OEM set: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/85/6295/17217/PITEM/Regina-OEM-Chain-and-Sprocket-Kits-1993-Honda-CBR600F2-Parts.aspx Would this be a good way to go?
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Apr 9, 2010 03:22
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I'm hearing some a "shhhhhhh" noise from the drive side of my 2006 V-Strom DL1000. It only seems to happen on acceleration; as soon as I let off the throttle, the noise stops (or gets so quiet I can't hear it). Is this the chain, and how do I know if that's within normal specs or a problem? I didn't notice it before, but then again I haven't been riding this bike too long. I just lubed the chain, could that be the issue?
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Apr 9, 2010 05:32
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Which size Avon Distanzia will fit my DRZ400SM? Stock tires are 140-70-17 but I don't see any Distanzias that size, and there are several R17. Also does anyone know where I can get one online cheaper than $170?
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Apr 9, 2010 06:15
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infraboy posted:So I just received my Pitbull SS rear stand today and was wondering about chain drives. I set it up to work on my F2 swing arm and it was surprisingly easy to get it up the first time because I was a bit nervous about tipping the bike over. From the top: yes changing chain and sprockets is pretty easy. The hardest bit when I did mine was the front sprocket. Impact wrench didn't help, had to put it in gear, stand on the brake with the front wheel against a wall - and then apply retard rage to a breaker bar. Thankfully the socket was really high quality so no chance of slipping. A Dremel is real nice to have in case the rivets are tough, but yes normally the tool does both. The thin pin goes into the expanded side of the rivet and pushes it out the other side, the thicker pin flattens the head of the new rivet. The difference between the tool kits is than one has multiple sizes. You can do with the cheaper one I suppose, just have to weight between $20 and "nice to have". I snapped a pin on my chain tool, I'd be hosed if it didn't have more pins. Changing the sprocket sizes is simply the magic of gearing. Spinning a small cog that drives a big cog is low on effort and low on work - the big cog spins slowly. Vice versa, spinning a big cog to drive a small cog is high on effort but gets the little cog spinning like mad. If you increase the size (number of teeth) on the front sprocket you increase the effort and increase the work, like a higher gear. Decrease teeth, lower effort, lower gear. On the driven side it's the other way around, more teeth equals lower effort. So -1 +2 is done by someone who wants a lower gear, most likely someone whole enjoys wheelies.  It's not necessary to do both but you can't change the sizes too much due to space available for the chain run, so max effect needs both done. People that gear up, for instance wanting lower revs on the highway, usually just change one of them as the effect desired isn't that big. That chain/sprocket set should do you just fine. I have no experience with the brand and I don't remember the internet wisdom about it, but there aren't really any terrible ones out there.
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Apr 9, 2010 08:23
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8ender posted:Pods are a huge pain in the rear end for most bikes. Yup, and rejetting is usually the least of this pain. Stabilizing the rear end of the carburetor block in a sensible way is even worse. Vibrating and jumping float bowls is a HUGE pain in the rear end.
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Apr 9, 2010 08:45
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orthod0ks posted:On a separate note, what's the deal with shifting without the clutch? I've seen it mentioned a few times, but seems like it would be bad for the bike. I've heard of arguments for clutchless shifting as well as against. The detractors say that you'll ruin the dogs and shift forks in the transmission, the advocates say that properly executed, it won't do any more damage than shifting normally. Seems to work fine for me on the school bikes (CB500Fs) I'm currently riding and they all have at least 50.000km each of student abuse on them. With a bit of finesse, just preloading the shifter lightly and doing a quick blip works fine. If you mash the shifter, you're probably going to do some damage. I asked my instructor about it as well and while he did say that it was a moderately advanced driving technique more fit for the track, he saw no problem if it felt most comfortable, he does it all the time himself. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Apr 9, 2010 09:26
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Shifting up without a clutch is pretty easy but how do you shift down without? Is that even possible?
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Apr 9, 2010 12:40
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KARMA! posted:Shifting up without a clutch is pretty easy but how do you shift down without? Is that even possible? Light pressure down on shift lever, blip throttle.
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Apr 9, 2010 13:08
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Z3n posted:There's a lot of options if your edit isn't serious.
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Apr 9, 2010 14:27
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KARMA! posted:Shifting up without a clutch is pretty easy but how do you shift down without? Is that even possible? Its a lot tougher to do since the transmission should be completely unloaded when you do it. You can do it by rolling on the throttle till its unloaded, but that gets tough and you wind up accelerating when you're likely trying to slow down. The reality of all this is that if you want to clutchless shift on the street because it makes you feel like Valentino, or because you have tiny babby hands that cant work the clutch, fine, but all you're really doing is shifting your transmission when its not completely unloaded (its not every single time, trust me) and putting more wear and tear on it than you need to. If you're on the track where fractions of a second matter more than the eventual wear on the trans, then go nuts.
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Apr 9, 2010 15:21
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infraboy posted:Chain stuff I literally just replaced the chain and sprockets on my CBR F2. Took me 3 hours from start to finish. I used the Motion Pro chain tool, but my old chain had a clip so I can't comment on how effective it is at removing rivets. It puts rivets in just fine, though. I used the RK OEM chain and sprocket set off Motorcycle Superstore, came with everything I needed and it even had the correct length chain so I didn't need to remove any links to get it to fit. I bought my bike with re-geared sprockets, both front and rear, and bought OEM gearing for my new sprockets. I prefer the OEM gearing on the F2, it doesn't feel like I lost any accelerating power (it was a bit quicker below ~5k or 6k, but past that feels the same) and it's so much nicer not having it rev at 6 or 7k just to be on the highway at 65mph. As an aside, you have replaced the stock R/R and cam chain tensioner on your F2, right??
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Apr 9, 2010 15:31
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Radbot posted:I'm hearing some a "shhhhhhh" noise from the drive side of my 2006 V-Strom DL1000. It only seems to happen on acceleration; as soon as I let off the throttle, the noise stops (or gets so quiet I can't hear it). Is this the chain, and how do I know if that's within normal specs or a problem? I didn't notice it before, but then again I haven't been riding this bike too long. I just lubed the chain, could that be the issue? That's the sound of a well lubed chain. It makes sort of a bacon sizzling noise. TheDon01 posted:Which size Avon Distanzia will fit my DRZ400SM? Here's a: 150/60-17 for 142$. 160/60-17 (SM Compound) for 152$. And if you really want to keep stock sizes, 140/80-17 for 149$. 14$ shipping for single tire orders, free shipping on 2 tire orders, so it might be worthwhile to buy a front as well. I've generally heard positive things from SW moto tires, although I've never used them personally. My dealership offers tires at drat near cost, so...meh. I'd probably run the 150 there, especially if you can get it in the supermoto compound. Chris Knight posted:It was serious, and I thought of a few later that evening after I'd taken it down. I'd just had enough of things going wrong and said "gently caress it." Totally understandable.
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Apr 9, 2010 16:40
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How reasonable is spray painting a bike? I just acquired a '98 CBR600 f3, and it's a red/black that I'm not too crazy about (and doesn't match my white jacket/helmet at all). I saw somebody in another thread just did like 4 coats of spray paint with a few shiny top coats, and I'm wondering how that would go doing like a pearl white or something.
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Apr 9, 2010 16:47
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What's my best option for never having to lube my chain again? A scottoiler? Something else?
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Apr 9, 2010 17:50
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Z3n posted:That's the sound of a well lubed chain. It makes sort of a bacon sizzling noise. Or the sound of one thats ready to die. Unfortunately they sound similar. Fortunately they look completely different.
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Apr 9, 2010 18:00
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Are bar end mirrors helpful? The stock mirrors on the gsxr look at my shoulders and I can't get them adjusted to see anything useful behind me. Whats a decent brand?
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Apr 9, 2010 18:03
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blindjoe posted:Are bar end mirrors helpful? The stock mirrors on the gsxr look at my shoulders and I can't get them adjusted to see anything useful behind me. Whats a decent brand? name/post combo
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Apr 9, 2010 18:09
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blindjoe posted:Are bar end mirrors helpful? The stock mirrors on the gsxr look at my shoulders and I can't get them adjusted to see anything useful behind me. Whats a decent brand? I got these: http://www.amazon.com/CRG-Internal-Mirror-Adapter/dp/B001CI94DS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270833085&sr=8-4 and these (but from ebay for the same price): http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Handlebar-Black-BAR-Mirrors/dp/B0026N6M24/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270833115&sr=1-8 The part that goes into the handle bar on the cheap mirrors broke on me when i put the one. It was lovely/thin aluminum. The CRG adapters are much better and more secure. Also ordered the CRG mirrors, but they are small as gently caress as cost me like 45 bucks each...so they are going back. Pic: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3098443&pagenumber=44#post375035014 Plinkey fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Apr 9, 2010 18:14
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`Nemesis posted:What's my best option for never having to lube my chain again? A scottoiler? Something else? Shaft drive?  A scottoiler would be a good choice, but honestly, if you lube it with gear oil, it takes literally a minute, you never have to clean it, and it gives you a chance to catch poo poo like this:  before it kills you.
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Apr 9, 2010 18:36
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How thorough are you with the gear oil? Do you still follow the same 300 mile lube interval? And to be honest, a shaft drive will be a major selling point on my next bike.... cleaning and lubing the chain is easily my least favorite aspect of motorcycle ownership.
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Apr 10, 2010 00:04
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I seem to recall hearing that shaft drives generally transfer power less efficiently. c/d? Also along those lines, how do you people feel about belts?
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Apr 10, 2010 01:55
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Bad Munki posted:I seem to recall hearing that shaft drives generally transfer power less efficiently. c/d? Yes, but I think it's worth the reduced maintenance. And besides it's not like you're going to notice if the shaft is a slightly less efficient way of doing things. I do notice a little bit of "judder" with shaft drive if you goose it, but it's nothing bad. Just feels a bit odd until you get used to it. Belt drive is a pretty good compromise. No need to oil it or anything, and I *think* it's supposed to be the most efficient way to transfer power.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:27
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I wasn't saying shafts are bad, mind you. My previous/first bike was an old '93 yamaha virago with a shaft drive. Worked great, and I never had to touch it or anything. My new bike, a vulcan 900 custom, has the belt, though, and I was just wondering how they stacked up in comparison to the other mechanisms. I know poo poo about maintenance. What are the bare minimums I should seriously learn or at least look into in order to keep myself from getting killed? Beyond the standard "do my lights work," "is there air in the tires," "does the oil need to be changed" stuff, of course.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:29
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Doctor Zero posted:Yes, but I think it's worth the reduced maintenance. And besides it's not like you're going to notice if the shaft is a slightly less efficient way of doing things. I do notice a little bit of "judder" with shaft drive if you goose it, but it's nothing bad. Just feels a bit odd until you get used to it. I believe chains are the most maintenance, but are easy to change, and change the gearing with the sprockets, the main benefits are that they are the most efficient in transferring power. Belts are a little less efficient in power delivery, they last longer i've read, and are less maintenance. Shafts are the least maintenance, most expensive, heaviest, and least efficient in power delivery, i've read maybe older shaft drives made bikes heavier on one side and made them handle better when turning one way than the other, mostly cured I think with modern shafts. edit: FuzzyWuzzybear: Yeah, ironically I test road the F2, I loved it, everything wit it seemed fine, hell I didn't even KNOW what a regulator/rectifier was or what it did until the next day I rode it to San Francisco, almost made it to work, and had the bike completely die on me. It was pretty embarrassing pushing it half a mile to where I worked luckily it was slightly downhill. Luckily a co-worker of mine rides so I called him up and he did me a huge favor by removing my battery and bringing it + a charger to work and I was able to charge it during my shift and reinstall it, it had just enough juice to make it home, (who the hell thinks an electric bike would be a good idea?) So within 3 days of doing research into the Bike's general problem areas and charging issues I learned what a regulator/rectifier was, and how to use a multimeter's multiple features. Bikes been running like a champ for the last 1000 miles or so since i've replaced it. I've read about CCT issues, my bike is only at 18k right now, I don't seem to have any noise issues, installing a new one looks pretty easy and straight forward but messy since i'd have to prime it with oil, not sure if I want to mess with a manual one. infraboy fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 02:41
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Reminds me - although they are almost maintenance-free, people with shaft drives should be checking and changing your shaft drive oil periodically. If that runs dry, your whole back tire could seize up, which would be nasty. It's really, really easy to do though.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:57
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