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Phat_Albert posted:The reality of all this is that if you want to clutchless shift on the street because it makes you feel like Valentino, or because you have tiny babby hands that cant work the clutch, fine, but all you're really doing is shifting your transmission when its not completely unloaded (its not every single time, trust me) and putting more wear and tear on it than you need to. I definitely don't do it all the time, but I have practiced up and down clutchless shifting a few times to get a feel for it. I think it's good to know how to do it in case your clutch cable breaks on you while you're moving so you can slow down decently.
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Apr 10, 2010 03:39
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Doctor Zero posted:Reminds me - although they are almost maintenance-free, people with shaft drives should be checking and changing your shaft drive oil periodically. If that runs dry, your whole back tire could seize up, which would be nasty. Also, some bikes have a slip joint for the pinion shaft that needs some moly love , especially BMW's. I noticed that there is a zerk on the pumpkin of that CX500T I looked at, and no doubt a squirt there is a good idear. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 03:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Reminds me - although they are almost maintenance-free, people with shaft drives should be checking and changing your shaft drive oil periodically. If that runs dry, your whole back tire could seize up, which would be nasty. It's funny I was looking at one of the new Honda Shadow 750s which are all shaft drive now, above the differential it's clearly labeled next to a bolt with "fill 80w-90 oil" and below that theres another bolt with "Drain" labeled on it. Does the oil need to be drained when doing a rear wheel/tire swap? Never had a look into one of them.
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Apr 10, 2010 03:57
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`Nemesis posted:How thorough are you with the gear oil? Do you still follow the same 300 mile lube interval? I lube the top of the bottom run of the chain, with one of those bottles of 90w gear oil with the spout. I just toss it on the center stand/rear stand, and spin the rear tire with my right hand and run a bead down the orings on each side. I probably do it for about 20 seconds on each one, way overkill to make sure I hit them all. Then I wipe off the excess. I try and lube it when I get back from a ride, prevents throw off from getting too nuts. I do it every 300 to 400 miles. No need to clean the chain with the gear oil. infraboy, no need to drain the oil when pulling the rear wheel.
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Apr 10, 2010 06:09
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I use some PJ-1 blue label chain spray thats safe for o-rings, should I keep using it or switch over to some 90w oil like you do? The spray seems to work well enough, doesn't take a whole lot of spraying to get the chain lubed up.
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Apr 10, 2010 06:20
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infraboy posted:i've read maybe older shaft drives made bikes heavier on one side and made them handle better when turning one way than the other, mostly cured I think with modern shafts. That's not from the extra weight on one side, it's due to the torque reaction. Basically the spinning drive shaft makes the bike rock in one direction. Modern suspension design (things like BMW's Paralever, Kawasaki and Moto Guzzi both have their own as well) counteracts it so they don't kick on whilst rolling on through a bend.
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Apr 10, 2010 07:18
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Z3n posted:That's the sound of a well lubed chain. It makes sort of a bacon sizzling noise. More likely a chain with flat O-rings that needs to be replaced.
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Apr 10, 2010 09:27
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One thing about shaft drives of course, they don't wheelie unless a special torque arm is mounted. Just kidding. That's one of the oldest trolls in Norwegian motorcycle web community lore. It's pretty funny, it's even been on print which caused a perfect storm of letters.
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Apr 10, 2010 09:35
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I'm seeing some dirt cheap Hyosungs that don't look / review terribly. Are these things poo poo? Is Hyosung like 90s Hyundai (absolute poo poo) or recent Hyundai (actually a really good value)? Specifically, I'm looking at the GT250, which looks to be basically a Korean knockoff of the Ninja 250, but with fuel injection and ludicrous depreciation.  However, I'm worried that the crazy depreciation might be because they are terrible.
Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 09:45
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I think they're more like recent Hyundais, but I have nothing to back that up with. Here's a thread on advrider which might contain more unsubstantiated claims or possibly even some real experience to help you along  http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434349The 5th poster mentions the engines locking up, that actually happened to a friend of mine. Crankshaft split or something. But it was under warranty and a known issue so the engine was replaced by the dealer. By the way, advrider really is a good forum to find info on because, a bit like SA, they have a sort of anti-bullshit vigilante culture which helps keep anecdotes from becoming evidence and so on. Their search engine sucks, but the entire database is cached by google so you can just google "yourtermhere site:advrider.com".
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Apr 10, 2010 09:54
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Weinertron posted:I'm seeing some dirt cheap Hyosungs that don't look / review terribly. They're not absolutely poo poo, but the build quality lacks a bit. They've licenced build plans for bikes from Suzuki. I think they're also sold under the brand AlphaSports. You get what you pay for. They're alright bikes but don't expect too much (if any) resale value. If your financial situation leaves you the choice between a new Hyosung or an older Suzuki and you plan to never resell the bike, it's actually not an easy choice.
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Apr 10, 2010 12:34
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-wrong thread-
jujube fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 13:19
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jujube posted:Anyone know how to properly wash leather pants? I've read somewhere it's possible to just put it in the washing machine at 30 degrees and let it dry slowly.
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Apr 10, 2010 14:18
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infraboy posted:It's funny I was looking at one of the new Honda Shadow 750s which are all shaft drive now, above the differential it's clearly labeled next to a bolt with "fill 80w-90 oil" and below that theres another bolt with "Drain" labeled on it. Does the oil need to be drained when doing a rear wheel/tire swap? Never had a look into one of them. I can't say for the Shadow for 100% sure, but the other Hondas I've had you can remove the wheel axle and drop the tire without taking the rear differential off. You'd have to check a service manual to be sure, but I'd be willing to bet it's pretty similar. Weinertron posted:I'm seeing some dirt cheap Hyosungs that don't look / review terribly. The general consensus I've seen is that they are pretty underwhelming and for what you pay for them you could get a much nicer used UJM. I think they need to bake for another 5 years.
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Apr 10, 2010 15:53
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Pretty much all the chinese 4 wheelers fall apart after two years, so I'd imagine the motorcycles aren't much better. Its fine for a simple solid axle kid poo poo that they'll outgrow in a year and tops out at 15mph.
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Apr 10, 2010 16:11
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Hyosung is Korean not Chinese. Hence the Hyundai comparison.
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Apr 10, 2010 16:20
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Sorry for the doublepost, but maybe you people should ask more questions.  Anyway, I changed the DRZ's oil today. Do I have to replace the o-rings under the filter cover every time or are they reusable? I changed them this time since I wasn't sure, but if I can save $3, I may as well.
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Apr 11, 2010 02:17
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Endless Mike posted:Sorry for the doublepost, but maybe you people should ask more questions. Honestly I wouldn't worry about until it starts to leak, then you know to change it.
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Apr 11, 2010 02:20
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Reuseable for sure, and you really dont need to torque the bolts down all that hard to stop leaks.
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Apr 11, 2010 07:18
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I just bought a used bike. What do I need to do? I'm thinking oil change/lube the chain. What else?
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Apr 11, 2010 07:55
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I just bought a used bike. What do I need to do? I'm thinking oil change/lube the chain. What else? After buying 2 bikes, i'd say inspect the tires pretty carefully for wear, if you have a multimeter, test the charging system by connecting it to the battery and setting it to DC and see if your stator is working. Check oil level and condition, change if needed. If it's liquid cooled i'd check out the radiator and peek at the coolant, if it looks ol d or dirty a good flush and refill would be a good idea. Grats on your purchase, what did you buy?
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Apr 11, 2010 08:02
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infraboy posted:After buying 2 bikes, i'd say inspect the tires pretty carefully for wear, if you have a multimeter, test the charging system by connecting it to the battery and setting it to DC and see if your stator is working. Check oil level and condition, change if needed. If it's liquid cooled i'd check out the radiator and peek at the coolant, if it looks ol d or dirty a good flush and refill would be a good idea. 98 CBR 600 f3. I went and looked at it a few nights ago, and wasn't sure what I was going to do. I didn't want to rush into any purchases and get something that was a piece of crap like I did with my last bike. It was exceptionally clean, and looked well taken care of. It started easily, and when I took it around the block, it felt healthy, so I bit the bullet and did it. I don't have it in hand yet, we're doing the actual swap tomorrow evening. I'll do the standard egotistical take lots of pictures thing in a little while and post them.
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Apr 11, 2010 15:36
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The Wonder Weapon posted:98 CBR 600 f3. I went and looked at it a few nights ago, and wasn't sure what I was going to do. I didn't want to rush into any purchases and get something that was a piece of crap like I did with my last bike. It was exceptionally clean, and looked well taken care of. It started easily, and when I took it around the block, it felt healthy, so I bit the bullet and did it. I don't have it in hand yet, we're doing the actual swap tomorrow evening. I'll do the standard egotistical take lots of pictures thing in a little while and post them. I'd definitely ask if hes put an aftermarket rectifier/regulator, not sure if they fixed the issue with the F3s, although it seems like it's a weak point of a lot of Hondas in the 90's - early 2000's, they tend to overheat and fail. If it has never been replaced it's really easy to find a nice aftermarket one and replace it if needed. Testing the charging system is the first thing i'd do.
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Apr 11, 2010 16:06
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infraboy posted:I'd definitely ask if hes put an aftermarket rectifier/regulator, not sure if they fixed the issue with the F3s, although it seems like it's a weak point of a lot of Hondas in the 90's - early 2000's, they tend to overheat and fail. If it has never been replaced it's really easy to find a nice aftermarket one and replace it if needed. Testing the charging system is the first thing i'd do. Do you have a link so I can see exactly what I'm looking for? Also I think I'm going to need a manual...
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Apr 11, 2010 16:58
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Does anyone happen to know where the oil filter is on a '02 Virago 250?  I can't seem to find anything more helpful online than "you have to drop the exhaust, take it to the dealer for a $500 filter relocation kit." There doesn't even appear to be anything filter-esque under the exhaust. There are a couple frame rails blocking some bolts underneath, though, and like hell am I gonna lift the engine to change the oil.
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Apr 11, 2010 17:51
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sirbeefalot posted:Does anyone happen to know where the oil filter is on a '02 Virago 250? Look inside the engine. 
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Apr 11, 2010 18:02
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I was out tearing it up on my new-to-me CBR600RR. Two stupid questions: Tire pressure. I'm running 32/front and 30/rear. Rides kind of harsh, rear is kind of skittish. Should I be running less or is this just how it is? When I do fast turns should I still be on the seat, or literally off the seat holding onto the bike with the inside of my legs, sort of like on a dirtbike? I was doing it the second way today. Also when I come to a hard stop (thanks old man for just randomly stopping in the middle of the road, loving church traffic), I heard a 'bang' from the bottom of the bike, like the chain came up and hit? The slack on the chain seems in spec.
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Apr 11, 2010 18:05
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Up the pressure in the rear a few psi, check the age on the tires, and check your rear suspension. You should lean your shoulders to the inside. Your upper body position is way more important than your lower body position. But you don't want to cross up, make sure your rear end is either in line with the bike or just off to the inside. The bang could have been your rear suspension extending if you were braking aggressively. Again though, check your rear suspension for play. Maybe go out and do some braking practice and see if you can replicate the noise.
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Apr 11, 2010 18:13
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Bob Morales posted:Look inside the engine. Yeah, its under the cover on the side that I suspected. My Ninja's is underneath, so I wasn't sure if I was correct or not. Thanks. I should have checked the GIS results as well as the link results I guess... 
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Apr 11, 2010 18:15
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Z3n posted:Up the pressure in the rear a few psi, check the age on the tires, and check your rear suspension. I get 'behind the inside mirror' if that makes any sense. I'll add a little to the rear The front tire is stock, plenty of tread but it sucks, I have no confidence in it. Slightly feathered so it's a little squirrely. Spoiled by the brand new tires I have rode on each of the last few year. Rear is a pilot power I think.
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Apr 11, 2010 18:31
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Mismatched tires, especially worn/flatspotted ones can make a bike feel really odd. I'd replace the front, you can get PPs for cheap these days.
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Apr 11, 2010 18:35
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I'm thinking of getting this chain here. O-Ring, rivet type, seems to be everything a bike dreams for. 1. As far as riveting goes, would I be able to do it with a ball-peen hammer and anvil? I'm planning on taking the swingarm off to take the old one off and put one on. 2. What exactly do the numbers for chains mean? I'm pretty sure my bike needs a 530 but what does that mean? As well as the 100-130 number range in the choice bar, are those number of links? 3. Should I maybe find a different brand or price range? I've never bought a chain and I'm not entirely sure what I need to look out for.
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Apr 11, 2010 21:05
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Yeah, 530 is the size. and the 100-1xx is the number of links on the chain. As far as riveting it goes, I dunno. I've always used master link chains with safety wire. Seems like a pain in the rear end to mess with rivets for someone as lazy as me though I'm sure there's nothing to it if you have the proper tools.
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Apr 11, 2010 21:11
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Argh. My new-to-me 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan EN500 with just under 16k miles is giving me trouble. It was fine for about 50-100 miles, but now when the engine is on with the choke off, it starts leaking gas out the carb overflow tube and shutting down. On full choke, it doesn't seem to have this problem. There's also unburnt gas coming out of the left exhaust pipe. We cleaned out the spark plugs and switched the left one to the right side and vice versa - same problem, and the unburnt gas still comes out the left exhaust pipe. Any idea what this could be?
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Apr 11, 2010 21:22
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Methusulah posted:I'm thinking of getting this chain here. O-Ring, rivet type, seems to be everything a bike dreams for. You can do the rivet by hand, but a little chain tool is easy to do it. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...=112&zmap=66488 quote:The 40 Class specs are as follows: those with a chain number of 420 have an inside width of 6.35 mm. The 40 Class with a 425 chain number have a 7.95 mm inner width. The one with 428 chain numbers have an inner width of 7.95 mm. As far as chains go, I would stick with RK/DID over an off-brand or in-house brand. Don't forget if you are getting a new chain, you should get new sprockets too. Good excused to smaller in the front or bigger in the back for some extra pep. Sprockets are sized just like chains. Often you can get a kit for your bike with 2 new sprockets up/down a few teeth, and chain. You can get a 520 kit and aluminum sprockets, they won't last as long but you'll get a hair more acceleration.
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Apr 11, 2010 21:43
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This is repeated from my thread but perhaps there's someone reading this that isn't reading that. Let's assume, hypothetically, that an oil-cooled i4 bike with dual exhausts is smoking from one exhaust and not from the other. Another hypothetical symptom is that the carburetor banks (1+2 and 3+4, center screw) will not sync. I would think this means one side is burning oil for one of two reasons: 1.) Head gasket. 2.) Rings. Alternatively, since bikes are high-revving and perhaps ought to be allowed to burn a little oil, the smoky side could be fine while other side is dead in the water due to lack of spark or old plugs but I doubt this. It doesn't sound like something running on two cylinders and that sure was plenty of smoke. I am intending to check spark + compression as soon as I get my hands on suitable tools. What I ask from you is what else should be checked to get the problem pinned down?
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Apr 11, 2010 21:51
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I've been a long time lurker in CA and am finally seriously looking at getting a bike. There's someone locally selling a 91 gsf400 bandit with 18k miles for $1000. He had it listed last week for $1400, but the ad says he tried cleaning the carbs and now it won't start. Assuming no other issues with the bike, could someone with no real wrenching experience realistically expect to get the bike running again? Part of me says for a $1000 bike its worth the gamble, the other half says that if it was an easy fix the seller would take care of it for another $400.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:22
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Duuk posted:This is repeated from my thread but perhaps there's someone reading this that isn't reading that. What color is the smoke and does it always do it? Also, what color are the plugs? It may be something as simple as an exhaust leak if it's black smoke.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:26
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As someone who just sold a Bandit 400 with issues I'd say be very careful. I'm pretty experienced with returning motorcycles to running condition and was annoyed enough by this bike to give up and sell it on. Cleaning the carbs properly got it to run ok but never well. I also had a really strange problem of losing random cylinders while riding. I'm sure given enough time and energy I could have fixed it but it needed other work as well and I quickly tired of the whole thing. Another negative on that bike is they only imported them for a few years in pretty small numbers so finding good spares is sometimes a pain in the rear end. Personally I would pass.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:28
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I've been a long time lurker in CA and am finally seriously looking at getting a bike. There's someone locally selling a 91 gsf400 bandit with 18k miles for $1000. He had it listed last week for $1400, but the ad says he tried cleaning the carbs and now it won't start. Assuming no other issues with the bike, could someone with no real wrenching experience realistically expect to get the bike running again? Part of me says for a $1000 bike its worth the gamble, the other half says that if it was an easy fix the seller would take care of it for another $400. id avoid it, those carbs are bastards and you dont want that heartache for your first bike. the b400 is a really nice looking bike but parts are hard to get these days. apart from carb issues the cdi fails a lot on them.
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Apr 11, 2010 22:29
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