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Duuk posted:
Comparing the numbers will tell you more than the raw numbers themselves. The head gasket could be leaking, allowing oil to seep into the combustion chambers, the valve guides could be bad in one or more cylinders, there could be broken/sticky rings, so here is the general rundown. 1 cylinder low-do a wet test (a small spray of oil in the cylinder). If the number increases appreciably, suspect piston sealing. If not, look to valves/head gasket. 2 adjacent cylinders low-head gasket, or, head cracked. all cylinders low-you poor bastard. At least you now get the "opportunity" to go through the entire top endof the motor.
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 22:30 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:24 |
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Bugdrvr posted:As someone who just sold a Bandit 400 with issues I'd say be very careful. I'm pretty experienced with returning motorcycles to running condition and was annoyed enough by this bike to give up and sell it on. Cleaning the carbs properly got it to run ok but never well. I also had a really strange problem of losing random cylinders while riding. I'm sure given enough time and energy I could have fixed it but it needed other work as well and I quickly tired of the whole thing. Another negative on that bike is they only imported them for a few years in pretty small numbers so finding good spares is sometimes a pain in the rear end. Thanks for the input. I noticed it seemed to be a rare bike, so replacement parts was one of my concerns. Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a gs500.
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 22:33 |
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Right now I use my truck for hauling bikes. The truck is old and falling apart and other than hauling bikes it doesn't get driven, I use the SV for everything and the roommate has a truck if I really need one. For those of you using a trailer for the bike what are you using? I'm looking for a one or two bike trailer, preferably aluminum and lightweight because my towing vehicle will be a E30 until I replace it with something a bit newer in a year or so. Would a motorcycle trailer with tracks/tiedowns be preferred over a utility trailer? NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Apr 11, 2010 |
# ? Apr 11, 2010 22:40 |
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eviljelly posted:Argh. Float is sticking. You can try tapping the carb that's leaking with something plastic to try and break it loose, but you're best off pulling them down and replacing the float.
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 23:28 |
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My petcock is leaking...must be a really small leak because it's just moist, but there is a small puddle of gas directly under it. So my plan of action is to get a gasket replacement kit...think I should do the fuel lines also while I've got it all ripped apart?
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 23:48 |
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fuel line is cheap and easy. I get it at Lowes or whoever is close. I don't fool around anymore after trying to light my FrankenBeezer on fire due to a leaky fuel line. PS-some sort of fire extinguisher is a good idea.
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 23:58 |
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I took the tank off today and drained all the gas out...but I'll bring the extinguisher along when I get the gasket kit.
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# ? Apr 11, 2010 23:59 |
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I have a givi back rack for my kawasaki versys and the jc whitney box broke, one joint broke and the other lost the pin. Should I just buy another jc whitney box at like $70 or get the givi for $160???
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 02:22 |
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eviljelly posted:Argh. I'm having the saame problem with my KTM, searching around seems like I can dislodge the dirt in the float if I take it off some good jumps
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 02:40 |
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What's the best method you guys have found for moving your body position from side to side on the bike quickly without putting any pressure on the bars? Whenever I take a left followed by a quick right or vice versa I wind up pushing/pulling on the bars and countersteering when I don't want to. I'm thinking about waxing the seat to make it easier to do without grabbing onto anything, heh.
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 11:34 |
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-Inu- posted:What's the best method you guys have found for moving your body position from side to side on the bike quickly without putting any pressure on the bars? Whenever I take a left followed by a quick right or vice versa I wind up pushing/pulling on the bars and countersteering when I don't want to. I'm thinking about waxing the seat to make it easier to do without grabbing onto anything, heh. I just push on the opposite foot peg. My leathers stick pretty well to the saddle so I need to lift my butt a tiny bit though. I guess I push down on both pegs, but more on the outside one. edit: if you naturally have some weight on your wrists it might complicate things, same thing if your footpegs are behind your butt's center of gravity. Ola fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Apr 12, 2010 |
# ? Apr 12, 2010 11:52 |
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Gnomad posted:Comparing the numbers will tell you more than the raw numbers themselves. The head gasket could be leaking, allowing oil to seep into the combustion chambers, the valve guides could be bad in one or more cylinders, there could be broken/sticky rings, so here is the general rundown. Thank you very much, this is exactly what I was looking for. Bob Morales posted:What color is the smoke and does it always do it? White-ish, and I've only run it for about 30-40 minutes this year. Got socket that'll reach plugs today. Edit: One thing though - what do you mean by "spray"? Is this some special stuff or should I find a way to spray 10w40? Duuk fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 12, 2010 |
# ? Apr 12, 2010 18:00 |
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-Inu- posted:What's the best method you guys have found for moving your body position from side to side on the bike quickly without putting any pressure on the bars? Whenever I take a left followed by a quick right or vice versa I wind up pushing/pulling on the bars and countersteering when I don't want to. I'm thinking about waxing the seat to make it easier to do without grabbing onto anything, heh. if you put the same amount of pressure on both bars you won't steer anything and can shift your butt at will. It's one of those things like countersteering where I've never really thought about how I do it, I just do it. To my mind you don't put any pressure on the bars when you shift your butt around, but I guess you must have to somehow.
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 22:43 |
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-Inu- posted:What's the best method you guys have found for moving your body position from side to side on the bike quickly without putting any pressure on the bars? Whenever I take a left followed by a quick right or vice versa I wind up pushing/pulling on the bars and countersteering when I don't want to. I'm thinking about waxing the seat to make it easier to do without grabbing onto anything, heh. Do squats. A lot of squats. It's all in leg muscle and ab/back muscles. You should give NO input to the bars unless you are turning them. Pushing them both will essentially lock up the suspension, preventing the bike from self correcting from small bumps. It is also helpful to lock your outside leg into the bike by locking it into the crook made by the peg and it's support. Ideally, you should be able to transfer from side to side with your hands simply resting on top of the bars. It takes a lot of lower body and core strength.
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 22:52 |
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Z3n posted:Do squats. A lot of squats. It's all in leg muscle and ab/back muscles. You should give NO input to the bars unless you are turning them. Pushing them both will essentially lock up the suspension, preventing the bike from self correcting from small bumps. It is also helpful to lock your outside leg into the bike by locking it into the crook made by the peg and it's support. maybe that's what I do? Use my lower body and whatnot. I don't think it takes a lot of core strength though. Perhaps seating geometry plays a large part.
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# ? Apr 12, 2010 23:00 |
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Duuk posted:
Regular motor oil is fine, you need to get it into the spark plug hole without it running down the fins or whatnot carrying dirt from the engine into the chamber. Not too much though, just a bit to seal around the piston. Too much and you can hydraulic your motor. It will give a very impressive compression reading, once.
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 03:55 |
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Hmm, interesting. Sounds like I'll have to work on those muscles and spend a day in the mountains working on shifting my weight. Thanks as always CA!
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 04:25 |
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X-ring chain or O-ring chain? I'm thinking of getting a chain breaker and rivet kit and maybe doing a chain and sprocket job on my F2 soon, would it really make a difference? It looks like an Xring chain lasts longer, but it also costs nearly twice as much than an O-ring chain, is it worth the extra expense? I'm pretty good about lubing my chain usually once every 2 weeks or so. Suggestions?
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 06:15 |
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Speaking of chains, I dont know which chain to get! http://www.bikebandit.com/1992-suzuki-gs500en-street-chains/c/a697193a622987a697146a697129?m=6052&t=1&s=6#productlist Any reccomendations on Brand or what I'd need exactly? I have a GS500 so I'm not exactly throwing down wheelies or ripping up the street. I just want one that lasts, it doesn't need the tensile strength of propelling a rocketship. I'll get new sprockets too, probably drop a tooth in the front as that seems to be a popular mod to do. Can I get one of the basic 20-30 dollar chains or should I just man up and get the badass one? Also Z3n my offer still stands to give you some side biz on helping me with my seals and valves. Just let me know when you're free
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 07:34 |
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Speaking of chains, I dont know which chain to get! I guess you'd need a 16 tooth up front (or 15 if you want to go down 1) and a 39 in the rear, apparently D.I.D. chains are the best of the best but I don't think you can go wrong with any of the others on the GS500. I'm not sure about the # of links on the stock chain, I guess bike bandit already knows and sends the correct length?
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 07:43 |
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Well, from what I read its 110 links and 520 pitch. Does that sound right? The link I posted has it granularized to the ones that are 110 links and 520 pitch, but there's 25 freaking choices. I hate choices!
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 07:53 |
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Yeah 520 pitch is correct, it's basicly the "width" of the chain. I've never experienced every chain but i've read good things about DID, Renthal, and RK. Stick with good steel sprockets, they should last longer than the hardened aluminum ones. I think just a regular O-Ring chain should be fine for a GS, no need for an expensive X-ring chain. Actually it looks like the RK X-ring 520 chain with 110 links is about 84$, that is what i'd get. infraboy fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Apr 13, 2010 |
# ? Apr 13, 2010 08:06 |
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I don't like the idea of getting a clip type master link, but I don't want to buy an 80 dollar tool to rivet one. I found this thread (http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/121549-diy-chain-rivet-tool.html) where a guy just uses a C-clamp and a pipe flaring tool to rivet his chain. Does that seem like a good idea? Or are clip master links not all that bad?
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 14:30 |
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Methusulah posted:Or are clip master links not all that bad? A clip is fine. Harbor Freight has a $15 chain tool.
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 17:18 |
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Gnomad posted:Regular motor oil is fine, you need to get it into the spark plug hole without it running down the fins or whatnot carrying dirt from the engine into the chamber. Not too much though, just a bit to seal around the piston. Too much and you can hydraulic your motor. It will give a very impressive compression reading, once. I primarily had in mind that coercing 10w40 to turn into minute particles may not be easily doable with the admittedly ghetto looking tools that I seem to have a habit of constructing. I'll look around for something purpose-built. Hydro locking the engine while trying to diagnose what is wrong with it would certainly have some poetic irony to it.
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 22:01 |
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Bob Morales posted:A clip is fine. The HF chain tool is awesome, mine has held up great. On the subject of chains, whats the best lube for non-O-ring chains? I just put a new chain and sprockets on the RV90, and I'd prefer that it didnt instantly poo poo itself.
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# ? Apr 13, 2010 23:02 |
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What should I deal with mounting this in place for a trip back to WI? It rests perfectly on its own, doesnt weigh more than a 2nd passenger, and looks badass as gently caress I am thinking about using some 1" conduit clamps bolted to 2x4s, then some chain or 200lb test robe wrapped around it. Trip length is about 400 miles or so from here back to WI. Yes I am serious.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 00:56 |
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So uh, anyone know offhand the fork oil capacity for an 83 GS1100E? They're the ones with the anti-dive units. I have the specs for 82 (8/8.3 oz) but I don't recall if they're the same forks and I don't want to put the wrong amount.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 01:36 |
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dietcokefiend posted:
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 01:37 |
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dietcokefiend posted:What should I deal with mounting this in place for a trip back to WI? Ride up and down your street stopping only to open your visor and yell "Hey buddy, mow your lawn for a buck" whenever you see someone
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 02:25 |
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Duuk posted:I primarily had in mind that coercing 10w40 to turn into minute particles may not be easily doable with the admittedly ghetto looking tools that I seem to have a habit of constructing. I'll look around for something purpose-built. "Spray" was a poor choice of words on my part. It doesn't need to be a "spray", just a couple of drops will be fine. You could use a turkey baster or similar. All we are trying to do is seal the piston with oil instead of rings. Drop a bit of oil in, turn the engime for a few revolutions with the spark plug out and then check the compression.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 02:42 |
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Quick question about some 1980 GS850 brake calipers. Here's a picture: So I've got them off and apart. What is the highlighted bolt for? I think it returns the pads away from the rotors...maybe? Two of them come out/move at all (the one laying on its side). One of the two has a little boot/collar on it. When this one is pushed back it that little collar part makes a seal and almost seems to act as a spring. Is that what they are for, and do they need grease or something to go back to "working" instead of "frozen in place". E: Here's a schematic. http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850-g-1982-1983-usa_model16058/partslist/95324.html Plinkey fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Apr 14, 2010 |
# ? Apr 14, 2010 03:26 |
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dietcokefiend posted:What should I deal with mounting this in place for a trip back to WI? I would just take off the blade, drain the oil and gas, and make sure it's all secure. You've moved things with crazier weight distribution I wouldn't imagine this could be any worse. Also, I'm still trying to figure out if your saddlebags would fit on my bike. Another email coming forthwith.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 03:52 |
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bobula posted:So uh, anyone know offhand the fork oil capacity for an 83 GS1100E? They're the ones with the anti-dive units. I have the specs for 82 (8/8.3 oz) but I don't recall if they're the same forks and I don't want to put the wrong amount. If my google-fu is good, you want your level at 6.7 inches from the top of the tube, fork fully compressed and springs removed. Ask at https://www.thegsresouces.com forum, someone there certainly knows.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 04:26 |
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Plinkey posted:Quick question about some 1980 GS850 brake calipers. Looks like you're talking about the caliper slide pins (numbers 9 and 10 on the schematic). They should move freely in their bores since the caliper rides on the slide as the pads stop the vehicle and wear down. Your local parts shop should carry some high temp brake parts grease that you can use to lube the slides. If they are frozen up and can't be freed, or there is a lot of rust and pitting in the bores and the pins, you may need to replace the caliper mounting bracket (number 6) and/or the pins.
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# ? Apr 14, 2010 06:31 |
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Raven457 posted:Looks like you're talking about the caliper slide pins (numbers 9 and 10 on the schematic). They should move freely in their bores since the caliper rides on the slide as the pads stop the vehicle and wear down. Your local parts shop should carry some high temp brake parts grease that you can use to lube the slides. I'll check into some brake grease. All 4 were frozen when I took them off the bike. The ones that I got out only came out after sitting in some PB Blaster for a day or two. I'll try that with the other one and see if I can get them out too, clean them up and grease them. Not rusted at all though, which is good. So do you think that one should have plastic collar and the other bolt shouldn't? Edit: I'm retarded, they are different sizes and only one has notches for the rubber collar thing. Plinkey fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Apr 15, 2010 |
# ? Apr 14, 2010 21:03 |
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So, my mom bought a bike (58 years old, rode before I was born, apparently it was on her bucket list. Yea, she's pretty cool as far as moms go)... 1980 kz440 ltd. The guy bought it in 2003 and never rode it for some reason, just started it up monthly. I went to check it out/test ride it for her. Dude was asking $900, but she had talked him down to $800. It's in decent shape, but it coughed a lot trying to get it running, and the front brake was completely dead. Dude said that when he rode regularly, 20 years ago, he never used his front brake... ok buddy. She insisted that because it was in nice condition (had been garaged instead of ridden) that it was a good idea. Anyway, I wasn't comfortable riding without a front brake, and I told her I wasn't feeling good about it (I didn't necessarily think he was trying to screw her... he just didn't know anything about bikes). We left, and he took it to the local bike shop, bought brake fluid, and talked to them about it. They said the price may be a bit high, so he called and offered it to her for $500 after adding brake fluid to the front and putting new plugs in. So, here we are. He put brake fluid in it, so the front worked, but still not great. We bled the front brake and got it working properly, drained the gas... you can only add staybil so many times before it stops having an effect, and added fresh gas with a healthy dose of seafoam. I took it for a ride, and it ran, albeit a little rough. It's like a little toy compared to my gs750, but totally made me pine for an old school enduro, on a separate note. It worked, but shifting was very rough, especially first to second. It felt like it was fighting me - way too much resistance. How can we go about trying to fix this? Also, is there anything else we should check out? orthod0ks fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Apr 15, 2010 |
# ? Apr 15, 2010 03:15 |
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Change the oil/filter! Also, adjust the clutch cable, it's likely that it's running tight. Also please get your mother to the MSF or some form of good training if she hasn't already...reentry riders are at very, very high risk, comparable to the 18-24 year old bracket.
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# ? Apr 15, 2010 04:18 |
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Z3n posted:Change the oil/filter! Also, adjust the clutch cable, it's likely that it's running tight. Ok, will change the oil and check the clutch cable. I believe she is intending to the take the MSF... gotta love PA and it's free MSF courses. She's been making fun of me for wearing my helmet/gloves/jacket/boots/jeans whenever I ride, because they apparently used to ride in shorts and tshirts. But, with my nagging, she's already ordered a full face helmet and jacket, and will pick up some boots at her shop. orthod0ks fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Apr 15, 2010 |
# ? Apr 15, 2010 04:35 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:24 |
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Dumb question here. Where'd you all learn how to wheelie? I was never one of those kids who could wheelie bikes back then so going up on one wheel is a foreign feeling for me. Where do I start?
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# ? Apr 15, 2010 04:45 |