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Oakey posted:I think we need to take into account that everyone here is a goon. My personal observation is that bikes get girls Goons tend to ride nerdy bikes. The guys on 600cc sportbikes or literbikes get lots of (stupid) girls.
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Apr 16, 2010 01:37
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I can't say I've even picked up a girl solely because I ride, but I do tend to make sure I ride to the first few dates just for the bonus cool points. It also keeps me from drinking too much and acting like an idiot because, well, I do stuff like that. Beside that it's a cool as hell feeling to leave a girls house in the morning all disheveled and seeing your bike parked out on the curb. Seems poetic in a way to me.
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Apr 16, 2010 01:49
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Z3n posted:
Seriouspost: You must be doing it wrong. Even on my old 250 I had a lot of girls who wanted to go for rides on it, even academic non-slutty girls. It really is a chick magnet. Not every single girl will be on your dick for it, but it's a great ice breaker and way to get close real fast.
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Apr 16, 2010 02:37
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Bugdrvr posted:I can't say I've even picked up a girl solely because I ride, but I do tend to make sure I ride to the first few dates just for the bonus cool points. It also keeps me from drinking too much and acting like an idiot because, well, I do stuff like that. I swear this was a harley davidson commercial or something.
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Apr 16, 2010 03:48
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Weinertron posted:Goons tend to ride nerdy bikes. The guys on 600cc sportbikes or literbikes get lots of (stupid) girls. There are plenty of sportbike riding goons.
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Apr 16, 2010 04:53
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What's the closest bike to the Triumph Scrambler that's FI instead of carbs?
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Apr 16, 2010 04:56
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Their new modern classics are FI with throttle bodies that look like carbs. IE- The Scrambler
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Apr 16, 2010 05:04
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Seriouspost: You must be doing it wrong. Even on my old 250 I had a lot of girls who wanted to go for rides on it, even academic non-slutty girls. It really is a chick magnet. Not every single girl will be on your dick for it, but it's a great ice breaker and way to get close real fast. Oh, it's true that it's a great ice breaker. But riding a motorcycle won't magically turn you into Rico Suave, you still gotta cover the distance from the seat to the bedroom.  (Not that you'd really want to be Rico Suave, that guy seems like kind of a douche. But probably got plenty of ladies.) I believe all of the 09+ triumph engines are FI. But honestly, who cares? The carbed versions work just fine.
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Apr 16, 2010 05:21
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Methusulah posted:Their new modern classics are FI with throttle bodies that look like carbs. Wow haha that's a close match. Having them look like throttle bodies is retarded though.
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Apr 16, 2010 05:31
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Z3n posted:I believe all of the 09+ triumph engines are FI. But honestly, who cares? The carbed versions work just fine. Yea, also you don't need disk brakes. Drum brakes work just fine.
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Apr 16, 2010 05:44
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Jack the Smack posted:Yea, also you don't need disk brakes. Drum brakes work just fine. Except that in many cases the carbs actually work better than FI. FI still has a lot of issues. Which is the reason you retrofit flatslides rather than FI when you want more power out of a carbed bike. Hell, you pull the FI off a gen 2 SV and swap flatties on to maximize power and throttle response. Edit: Goddamnit, got jack the smack'd. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 06:00
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hayden. posted:Wow haha that's a close match. Having them look like throttle bodies is retarded though. It's quaint and unnecessary but great for marketing. I'm still planning on getting a new Bonny once I can afford it. Plus the prices are amAZING for a practically new triumph with FI and great looks. 
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Apr 16, 2010 06:09
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Z3n posted:Except that in many cases the carbs actually work better than FI. FI still has a lot of issues. Which is the reason you retrofit flatslides rather than FI when you want more power out of a carbed bike. Hell, you pull the FI off a gen 2 SV and swap flatties on to maximize power and throttle response. Yea, stock fuel injection isn't amazing for high performance. When you put in a power commander then you get some real performance.
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Apr 16, 2010 06:15
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Jack the Smack posted:Yea, stock fuel injection isn't amazing for high performance. When you put in a power commander then you get some real performance. Which is why it's a total crapshoot. There's horrible carbs out there, there's great carbs, and there's horrible FI, and great FI...which is why it's kinda pointless to buy a bike based off of if it has carbs or not.
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Apr 16, 2010 06:30
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Jack the Smack posted:Yea, also you don't need disk brakes. Drum brakes work just fine. The difference between OK carbs and good fuel injection is almost un-noticeable. The difference between good carbs and good FI usually winds up with the carbs coming out on top. Just because its an older technology doesnt mean its worse than the newer technology. Yes I know how this statement looks coming from someone with a carb for an avatar.
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Apr 16, 2010 14:36
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I asked because I've had bad experiences with carbs. Dealing with FI just seems like much less hassle and less loving around with mixture screws and wear parts and choke and ughhhh.
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Apr 16, 2010 16:14
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hayden. posted:I asked because I've had bad experiences with carbs. Dealing with FI just seems like much less hassle and less loving around with mixture screws and wear parts and choke and ughhhh. I guess if you're a tinkerer, then carbs are much more fun, if you just want "push butan and go", then FI is probably a better choice. Me, I'm kept awake at night thinking about cool things to do with the carbs on my Bandit, or swapping in some flatslides, or the myriads of other possibilities. Carbs are also much easier to tune and a lot cheaper in the end. To swap my Bandit carb internals over to GSXR-1100 internals was like $60 for brand new parts, and the difference in performance is night and day. A powercommander is $300. Again, it comes down to what you want out of it, and how much hands-on stuff you want to do. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 16:31
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Well like I said - I like working on stuff but if I never touch a carb again I'd be happy. I think the problem is that I just suck at working on stuff, evident by the fact that the last time I tried to a clean a carb I couldn't even reassemble it correctly. i break things 
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Apr 16, 2010 16:34
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hayden. posted:I asked because I've had bad experiences with carbs. Dealing with FI just seems like much less hassle and less loving around with mixture screws and wear parts and choke and ughhhh. Dealing with FI is sort of less of a hassle. It's a black box that hopefully does what you need it to. If it doesn't, you're replacing parts until it works. If you need to tune it, you have to add on a piggyback module that's another point of failure...and god forbid the injectors get clogged, because then you have to send them off to get cleaned. You work on carbs to fix them, you throw money at FI to fix it.
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Apr 16, 2010 16:45
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Oakey posted:I think we need to take into account that everyone here is a goon. My personal observation is that bikes get girls 
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Apr 16, 2010 17:24
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I throw money at everything because I eventually break something so I'm okay with that.
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Apr 16, 2010 17:24
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FI has a lot of potential though. (edit: for $$$ of course) I dream of a full Microsquirt setup with O2 sensors and high resolution injection/ignition maps. Device found: Suzuki GSX750ES Installing driver software...
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Apr 16, 2010 17:25
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Ola posted:FI has a lot of potential though. (edit: for $$$ of course) I dream of a full Microsquirt setup with O2 sensors and high resolution injection/ignition maps. Error: Suzuki GSX750ES is corrupted I've been meaning to snap these pics and post up for awhile, how does my chain look? Needs replacement now or later? Previous owner took the bike to dealer, but from my experience that dealer employs a bunch of retards that don't actually fix anything, so I'm not sure if this is the original chain or not. It'll probably hit 30k by summer's end and I was planning a decent amount of work at that time (valve checks and such).  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image. Also I came across this yesterday on the Husky. Probably have to order that part, but in the meantime is it ok or creeping death?  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.
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Apr 16, 2010 17:43
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Gnaghi posted:I've been meaning to snap these pics and post up for awhile, how does my chain look? Looks pretty good for me. Check it for red spots (leaking o rings), stuck links, and slack. How close to the end is the tensioner?
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Apr 16, 2010 17:47
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8ender posted:Looks pretty good for me. Check it for red spots (leaking o rings), stuck links, and slack. How close to the end is the tensioner? Cool, I'll check everything else once I pull it out since I gotta lube it anyway. Looks like the tensioner is right in the middle...and the locknut was loose.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:04
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Gnaghi posted:Error: Suzuki GSX750ES is corrupted That's a rotor button and it's probably not the end of the world if you ride around with it missing for a short period of time. I would replace it asap though. The chain looks like a couple of the links are sticky...take a minute, put on some gloves, and work each link with your fingers. They should have a nice smooth action to them, if they're sticking or rough feeling, the chain needs to be replaced.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:14
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Z3n posted:That's a rotor button and it's probably not the end of the world if you ride around with it missing for a short period of time. I would replace it asap though. Most of them are smooth but a bunch are a bit rough...dammit. So between the chain, sprockets and tools this is gonna be like $300 right? The bike has an extended warranty, but the dealer is sketchy enough that I don't want to take it there for anything outside of a transmission rebuild.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:35
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Warranty probably won't cover wear items, anyway.
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Apr 16, 2010 18:50
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I forgot to put the washer on my oil drain plug when changingmy KLRs oil today, how critical is it? I don't feel like draining it all again, unless it's really necessary I'll just hold on to it and put it in next time I change oil, will that be okay?
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Apr 16, 2010 19:19
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niethan posted:I forgot to put the washer on my oil drain plug when changingmy KLRs oil today, how critical is it? I don't feel like draining it all again, unless it's really necessary I'll just hold on to it and put it in next time I change oil, will that be okay? Not a big deal. It might leak a bit, keep an eye on it, but it's probably fine. I wouldn't bother replacing it. Gnaghi posted:Most of them are smooth but a bunch are a bit rough...dammit. So between the chain, sprockets and tools this is gonna be like $300 right? The bike has an extended warranty, but the dealer is sketchy enough that I don't want to take it there for anything outside of a transmission rebuild. How are the sprockets? You could just replace the chain.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:28
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Z3n posted:Not a big deal. It might leak a bit, keep an eye on it, but it's probably fine. I wouldn't bother replacing it. Ok I guess? They are as pictured, mostly just dirty. I just thought that the sprockets and chain were always supposed to be replaced together. Now I remember that it has the -1/+2 setup so they can't be that old, certainly not original. As for the rotor button, the local dealer doesn't stock and can't order it. They tell me I'll have to buy a whole rotor for $330. Hopefully I can find an old rotor or another dealer that stocks it. 
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Apr 16, 2010 19:44
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How on earth do you lose a rotor button? I have literally never heard of that ever.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:45
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Gnaghi posted:Ok I guess? They are as pictured, mostly just dirty. I just thought that the sprockets and chain were always supposed to be replaced together. Now I remember that it has the -1/+2 setup so they can't be that old, certainly not original. What the gently caress. What are the measurements on them? I've got some brand new ones floating around for my g/f's EBC SM rotor, I could ship them out to you. I've heard of it happening but never seen it. And they are a loving BITCH to install, goddamn rotor buttons. I meant to post a rant about it but my fingers were too tired.  On the chain and sprockets, you're supposed to replace them together but it's not the end of the world to replace the chain if the sprockets are in good shape. It may wear a little faster until it "seats" on the sprockets, but it's not a big deal.
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Apr 16, 2010 19:50
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Z3n posted:What the gently caress. The flat side (not pictured) is 13/16 of an inch in diameter, with the clipped side (in the picture) exactly 3/4. If you have anything, that'd be great! I sent an email to Halls Cycles (supposedly the top place for Husky parts) so hopefully they have it there. In meantime I'll try to slow it down in the twisties. Too much g-forces ripping off my rotor buttons. 
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Apr 16, 2010 20:15
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Plinkey posted:I'll check into some brake grease. All 4 were frozen when I took them off the bike. The ones that I got out only came out after sitting in some PB Blaster for a day or two. I'll try that with the other one and see if I can get them out too, clean them up and grease them. One of the pins is completely hosed up and won't move. Came out about half way, spins but won't come out anymore.... Time for a new bracket I'd assume?
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Apr 16, 2010 20:33
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You might try soaking it in PB Blaster again now that you got it to move some, but it's not sounding too good.
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Apr 16, 2010 20:47
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Raven457 posted:You might try soaking it in PB Blaster again now that you got it to move some, but it's not sounding too good. I don't think that will help, I've been pulling it out a bit, soak, pull it out a bit, soak for the last week. After it got to this point it won't move at all anymore, no matter how much soaking. I ordered a new set of calipers on Ebay because of a hosed up bleed nipple and they should be here soon. Except the are coming from Canada, so who knows how long that will take. So I think I should have enough spare parts to get one set that works. Also brake lines are out for delivery today...so if all goes well I might finally be able to ride again next week.
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Apr 16, 2010 20:52
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What do you guys do for insurance? I've done the MSF, got the M endorsement, and before I actually plunk down the cash for a bike and gear I want to see how much I'm going to be out in insurance. Anyway, I called the company who insures my car (Libery Mutual) because I know that they offer significant discounts for having multiple policies with them, and won't insure a bike unless you also have a car insured with them. Anyway, I then got told that they cannot insure me because I am under 25, not a homeowner, and the EX250 is a banned bike anyway. Any 3 of those conditions would prevent them from insuring me, and I'm all 3. So, what now? Do I really just need to shelve everything for a few years until I'm 25? It looks like a 20 year old male fresh from the MSF is going to be prohibitively expensive to insure, even though I'm wanting to buy the smallest, least powerful bike I can and have a perfect driving record. If a Ninja 250 is too big, powerful, and scary to insurance companies, then what bikes am I supposed to be looking at? Edit: HOLY poo poo Geico wanted $1000/yr for liability, a few others called me uninsurable, and progressive wants $77/year. What the hell. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 21:44
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^^^^^ it's super dependent on how a company calculates risk and your area. Shop around. There are places that will insure you for cheap. I'd go for liability only for the first few years, as anything else will have you paying the cost of the bike over 2 years. Contact insurance brokers and agents, they'll be able to get you cut some slack. Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 21:46
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Alright. I'd like your advice on this one. Compression readings are 6 - 7 - 7,5 - 6,5. Minimum specified is 8. Squirting oil was only done in the 6,5 piston and it did absolutely nothing. Note that the valves have not been checked yet. I don't have the equipment to check compression conveniently at my garage. The compression built up evenly with each crank. The bike starts like a charm, putters to life briefly even without touching the choke when cold, revs without hesitation and pulls plenty. What I would like to achieve is a state where riding it will not cause harm to it and it will not leave me hanging out of the blue. I don't need any more power but if some surfaces after maintenance I'll take it I s'pose. The problem with smoking disappeared entirely with a short trip and a change of spark plugs - the exhaust is now clear from both pipes. Sticky rings perhaps, or lovely old plugs. The way I see it there are three possible ways to proceed. 1.) Do valves, synch carbs, then leave the engine the gently caress alone. Might be able to do this without dropping engine, not sure yet. 2.) Drop engine, do valves, do head gasket, synch carbs, then leave the gently caress alone. 3.) Drop engine, tear it apart, get new cylinders/rings, have the pistons bored out if needed, then do valves and rest of the above and pay more than the bike is worth in total for the privilege. What do you think?
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Apr 16, 2010 21:52
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