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Dominoes posted:One of the two cloth straps tethering the roof to itself on my NC ripped off on one side. Pulling the release latch won't pop the top clear - I have to get out and lift from the side where I can get my hand under it. It's not a huge inconvenience and is still easier than the majority of manual convertible tops to open, but I'd like to be able to just do it form inside with one quick motion, and be able to raise it quickly if it starts raining. This looks like a normal wear-tear problem, and the one on the other side is weakening. Any idea how to reattach it? I'm not that familiar with the NC; could you post some photos of the problem and I'll see if I can come up with anything? I have an idea of what you're talking about but I really have to see what you're dealing with to offer any kind of solution.
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Apr 14, 2010 03:51
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Ziploc posted:NAs are known to overheat in certain situations. But not always. Whether it be a license plate blocking the radiator, or the under tray missing. There are tons of threads on Miata.net about both scenarios. I'm not running the undertray on my NB, does it really effect cooling? I'll install it for future track days if so.
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Apr 14, 2010 07:41
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At Horse Thief Mile during the summer miata's tend to over heat without the undertray. 100* + alot of elevation change makes those cars very slow and very hot.
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Apr 14, 2010 19:31
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My diff's going, and i've found someone local who's willing to let theirs go for a nice price. I've offered to go over and help remove it from their chassis as the evenings are light and it's good to wrench with someone. What prep / tools do I need? What's the general technique? Any tips and stuff to look out for beyond "read the miata.net article"?
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Apr 14, 2010 22:10
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What year is your car? LSD? Open? Viscous?
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Apr 15, 2010 03:08
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Stupid question: What diff does my 95M have?
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Apr 15, 2010 04:44
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Type 1 Torsen
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Apr 15, 2010 05:06
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Another stupid one, what ratio does my 99 base model open diff have? Is there a taller LSD I can put in there? I'm tired of insane revs on the freeway. I'd really love a tall 5th gear.
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Apr 15, 2010 06:03
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aventari posted:Another stupid one, what ratio does my 99 base model open diff have? There used to be a 3.636 or something gearing available here: http://miataroadster.com/mazda.html When I had plans to do it, it seemed like it only made sense to pair it up with a 6speed transmission though. My research said something like putting that with a 5 speed would make acceleration suffer quite a bit. There was also a pretty in depth thread at the miata.net forums about it too. obeyasia fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 15:04
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Anyone else have a leaky rear-end?  The PO changed the diff fluid and there seems to be a small puddle forming in my garage. It's coming from the top bolt, so I figured either he overfilled it or was supposed to use a copper washer or something and he didn't. I would assume it's tight enough as he is a mechanic.
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Apr 15, 2010 15:16
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I'm pretty sure the top bolt is the fill line, so if it's coming out of it in any volume it's probably overfilled.
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Apr 15, 2010 16:17
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Phone posted:What year is your car? LSD? Open? Viscous? I have an early NA 1.6 with an open diff and ABS. The donor is a 1.8 with a Torsen and no ABS. The driveshaft, engine and gearbox have already been taken. I know that i'll need a 1.8 driveshaft from somewhere, and I think i'll need to find ABS 1.8 halfshafts from elsewhere too.
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Apr 15, 2010 17:48
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Atomizer posted:1x NA01-64-481B big, upper, rubber shift boot Here's what the guy at the Mazda dealer quoted me for the parts: NA01-64-481B $39.70 M513-17-480A $42.14 0398-17-462A $9.57 9996-33-130 $2.05 EACH X2 M505-17-482 $10.18 EACH X2 R502-17-492 $32.28 M501-17-481 $6.28 EACH X2 M501-17-515 $13.65 I read about the cost for the parts of a shifter rebuild being in the $65-100 range, but here I'm being quoted $175; is this guy just trying to gouge me or do people generally only replace the first 3 items which do come out to be within that price range? A couple of you said you only replaced the boots and the nylon cup thing, but elsewhere other owners mentioned all of the part numbers I collected above. Both of my boots are torn, and I think one of the two washers was missing, but the nylon cup seemed to be intact along with the rest of the components so I'm not sure why I'd need to replace them (or, rather, if there would be any improvement.) Is there a better (cheaper) place to order these parts? My headlights, particularly the driver's side one, just recently started to hesitate or shudder when opened, but only once in a while, and they never fail to completely extend or retract. I figure lubricating those moving components, and others like the door hinges wouldn't hurt, but I'm not sure what would be best to use. Right now I have: WD-40, 3-In-1 Professional High Performance Penetrant, 3-In-1 Multi-Purpose Oil, 3-In-1 Professional High-Performance Lubricant (with PTFE), and Remington Dri-Lube (also with PTFE). The first two are generally not for long-term lubrication and more for producing immediate mobility; I'm assuming one of the last 2 with PTFE would produce good results. Is another product more appropriate for my purpose? I'm going to buy some Redline MT-90 to at least fill the shifter turret, and while I'm at it I figure replacing the oil in the transmission & differential wouldn't be too difficult. I've read that the transmission takes about 2qts, and the differential takes about 1qt, correct? Plus the 90mL for the turret, I figure 1 gallon should cover it. The trans and diff also both use 75W90 GL-4 oil, correct? http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7
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Apr 17, 2010 21:01
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Changed the tie-rod ends in my 90 today. That was pretty annoying. Every bolt was welded in. The pickle fork wouldn't budge the ball joint so I went and got a puller but the puller wouldn't fit unless I removed the calipers, pad carrier, and most importantly the heat/dust shield. Cue more cursing and welded on bolts. Finally finished hours later and luckily the alignment isn't too far off. Will still have to pay for an alignment next week. Took it for an installation lap around the local traffic circle sideways and it was all worth it.
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Apr 17, 2010 23:14
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Is there a better way to reduce body roll and tighten the car up in the corners than the sway bar swap from flying miata?
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Apr 18, 2010 00:38
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Is there a better way to reduce body roll and tighten the car up in the corners than the sway bar swap from flying miata? If you ask me your options are the following in order of effectiveness: -Sway bars -Springs -Shocks
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Apr 18, 2010 01:51
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Atomizer posted:parts Do 3 autocrosses and get on Mazdaspeed. The boots from the dealer are whatever I said earlier, but from Mazdaspeed they're like half that. edit: me posted:Lower shift boot: Part No : M513-17-480A $17.56 (note: 93+) edit2: I washed my gay car today. Did the whole clay bar and wax thing since I haven't washed it in like 6+ months. My 14x6 alloys are seriously pitted to gently caress since ~yay brake dust~ from Hawk's HP+s. I also painted my wiper blade arms so now I'm cool as gently caress. Whenever I finish up these Azenis, I'm probably going to go ahead and paint the stock wheels since 30 bucks in spray paint is a lot cheaper than 1100 bucks in 6uls and Hankook RS3s. I think that the wheels in white or bronze would look pretty good with the black paint (with mismatching montego blue mica hardtop). Phone fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Apr 18, 2010 |
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Apr 18, 2010 02:12
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Atomizer posted:Yeah, I tried kicking it too. A lot. Just for the record, it can't kill you to loosely put the lug nuts on the wheel finger-tight, lower it, and roll a few feet. That always unrusted any wheels I had on a car, anyway. I'm sure you've already taken care of this, but for future reference.... Edit: I see someone beat me to saying this. That's what I get for not finishing reading threads before MASHING BUTAN Method Loser fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Apr 18, 2010 |
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Apr 18, 2010 03:03
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Phone posted:I also painted my wiper blade arms so now I'm cool as gently caress. Hey cool buddy  I re-painted mine last weekend, as the paint was all flaking off. They look stock now. Just got some matt black Dulux rattlecan. I only had a few shreds of sandpaper left so if you look closely you can still see the edges of the old chipped paint, but for someone who sucks at painting I reckon they turned out pretty well. My only worry was how durable it would be, but considering it's been out in the weather all week they still look great.
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Apr 18, 2010 04:04
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Phone posted:Do 3 autocrosses and get on Mazdaspeed. The boots from the dealer are whatever I said earlier, but from Mazdaspeed they're like half that. It looks like I'd only need results from 2 events: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/membershipinfo.htm However I have such limited time and availability that it's less of a hassle to just buy the parts outright instead of trying to go through Mazdaspeed. I figure the only 2 parts I absolutely need are the boots, so I won't buy anything else yet. Method Loser posted:Just for the record, it can't kill you to loosely put the lug nuts on the wheel finger-tight, lower it, and roll a few feet. That always unrusted any wheels I had on a car, anyway. I'm sure you've already taken care of this, but for future reference.... Yeah, that's something I'd have been willing to try if I had known about it; I learned a lot from this experience, so it won't be an issue next time.  Personally, when quoting & posting I'll open up a new tab for each quote, then finish reading the thread and edit the posts together into a single thread like I'm doing here. Atomizer posted:My headlights, particularly the driver's side one, just recently started to hesitate or shudder when opened, but only once in a while, and they never fail to completely extend or retract. I figure lubricating those moving components, and others like the door hinges wouldn't hurt, but I'm not sure what would be best to use. Right now I have: WD-40, 3-In-1 Professional High Performance Penetrant, 3-In-1 Multi-Purpose Oil, 3-In-1 Professional High-Performance Lubricant (with PTFE), and Remington Dri-Lube (also with PTFE). The first two are generally not for long-term lubrication and more for producing immediate mobility; I'm assuming one of the last 2 with PTFE would produce good results. Is another product more appropriate for my purpose? What about these two things, guys? The headlight's being a real pain in the rear end, I'm going to try WD-40 first, I guess, but I'd really like to know what is and isn't OK to use to lube these kinds of things. Also, can anyone confirm the transmission & differential oil type & quantities? Thanks.
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Apr 20, 2010 03:00
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WD-40 is not a lubricant.  miata.net can answer all your questions about lubricating your miata.
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Apr 20, 2010 03:40
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Tactical Bonnet posted:WD-40 is not a lubricant. Yeah, I alluded to this in the prior post. After I posted, like I said I would I actually went out and used the WD-40 on the headlight mechanism that I thought was causing the issue and it vastly improved it. Whereas the headlight (driver's side) has more frequently been encountering resistance upon actuation, the WD-40 all but eliminated it in an instant; there's just a little hesitation right at the end of the extension process. I was just looking to see if anyone could tell me what NOT to use on the car, or what they'd recommend; at this point I just want to know what would be preferred as an actual lubricant.
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Apr 20, 2010 04:27
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I use white lithium grease in a spray can. I think I read about it either here or on miata.net. I used to use wd40 on everything 
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Apr 20, 2010 06:14
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Atomizer posted:Yeah, I alluded to this in the prior post. After I posted, like I said I would I actually went out and used the WD-40 on the headlight mechanism that I thought was causing the issue and it vastly improved it. Whereas the headlight (driver's side) has more frequently been encountering resistance upon actuation, the WD-40 all but eliminated it in an instant; there's just a little hesitation right at the end of the extension process. White grease for almost everything that moves. Penetrating oil - Kroil or PlusGas - on bolts and parts to help you you take them apart. Copper slip on the threads of most bolts when you are putting something back together. There are of course exceptions to this, brakes and engine bits mostly, but eh, those are the general guidelines. WD40 is for spraying on stuff as a Water Displacer. I use it for coating my tools after i've worked in the rain
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Apr 20, 2010 08:11
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meltie posted:WD40 is for spraying on stuff as a Water Displacer. I use it for coating my tools after i've worked in the rain It's amazing how people use WD40 for everything. Although I readily admit it's great for getting sticker and tape residue off. Atomizer posted:Also, can anyone confirm the transmission & differential oil type & quantities? Thanks. I use Mobil SAE 75W90, couple of liters for the transmission, about a liter for the rear diff (actually .7 or so on my '91) and 100 ml or so for the turret. pim01 fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Apr 20, 2010 |
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Apr 20, 2010 09:26
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Atomizer posted:Also, can anyone confirm the transmission & differential oil type & quantities? Thanks. I run (edit) Redline MT-90 in the trans and Redline 75W90 in the rear. Blaise fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Apr 21, 2010 |
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Apr 20, 2010 12:52
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I did my first autox in the miata over the weekend. This was probably my 4th time total autoxing, so I'm still a n00b. I was the slowest miata there, but to be fair I'm bone stock with lovely no-name 185 width all season tires (General Altimax HD!!!!!!!!). My closest competition was my former brother in law he has front sway, koni yellows, k&n drop-in, cat-back (basically the e-stock prep package) and he was running 15x7 wheels with 205 width dunlop direzza's. My best was a 43.4 , he ran a 42.2. He's been autoxing quite a bit more than me, but I'd like to think that I'm a pretty ok driver, still getting demolished by over a second kind of bummed me out. I got faster with every run, at least.
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Apr 20, 2010 19:01
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I actually think you got too close to him.
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Apr 20, 2010 19:48
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Atomizer posted:
I used Eneos fluid I got it from amazon http://www.amazon.com/ENEOS-MTF-QT-Transmission-Differential/dp/B002GI42DU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1271791578&sr=8-4 It really helped out with a lame 2nd gear synchro
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Apr 20, 2010 20:27
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So I bought a '90 NA with 15x,xxx miles last week I paid $2,300 -- it came with a new vinyl soft top with glass window, new vinyl boot, haynes manual, new battery, and a spare hood, spare fenders, and spare trunk. It has a couple of small dents and some minor hail damage on the hood (but all of the spare bodywork is brand new so I could fix it for practically nothing if I so desired). The interior looks almost new! No power steering either The guy's wife who I bought it from had it a year and only put like 1000 miles on it, so they didn't know a ton about the car. I didn't particularly care because the car started and felt okay and I don't need it to be a DD or anything -- it's just a rainy day car (yes i bought a convertible for rainy days!) but it will probably see a few trips to the mountains/deal's gap eventually. Anyways, I'm a bike guy so I don't even really know what kinds of goodies I got with this car. So I've got a couple questions..Apologies in advance for the crappy pictures, I just snapped a couple quick shots before it got dark. I've read like 15 or 20 pages of this thread and from what I've gathered, Proxes are pretty good tires, right? What about this specific model? I'm assuming they make different Proxes.  How about these rims? I know they aren't stock, but are they anything special?  Really lovely shot of the engine bay. Anything aftermarket in here from what you guys can tell? I know the air intake isn't stock (already looked that up) and maybe the plug wires?  What maintenance would you guys say I should have done? I'm really tight on money and I don't need it to run like a new car, so I'd like to do just the minimum to keep it healthy. Definitely flushing all the oil and fluids, and I'm 80% sure the timing belt needs to be done so I'm thinking about having that and the water pump knocked out. What oil do you guys typically run? I use Mobil1 in my bike, and back when I had an RX8 for all of 2 months I ran Royal Purple so I'm biased towards those two; dunno if there's a consensus on what's best for these cars or not. This car is awesome as poo poo though, definitely $2300 well spent in my opinion Thanks duders!
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Apr 21, 2010 01:26
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Hey, you still have a dipstick! Congrats! Some sort of BBS mesh that isn't OEM, looks good too, might be worth $3-600, depending on model. Everything else looks stock, you might want to check for radiator discoloration, I couldn't really tell from the picture you posted. shouldn't you be buyin flowers bruh \/\/\/ destructo fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 21, 2010 |
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Apr 21, 2010 01:39
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e: im dum
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Apr 21, 2010 02:21
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Granite Octopus posted:I use white lithium grease in a spray can. I think I read about it either here or on miata.net. I used to use wd40 on everything I used lithium grease and silicone lube for the two different window tracks (one is plastic, the other's metal if I remember correctly,) so I have both of those readily available. Thanks for the tip. Blaise posted:I run Redline MTL in the trans and Redline 75W90 in the rear. I was originally going to go with MTL but 75W90 is specified for both the trans and diff, so I'm going to buy MT-90. pim01 posted:I use Mobil SAE 75W90, couple of liters for the transmission, about a liter for the rear diff (actually .7 or so on my '91) and 100 ml or so for the turret. I'm just a little disappointed about the quantities; from reading online, I'm figuring about a quart for the diff, a little over 2 quarts for the trans, and the ~3 oz. for the turret, so unfortunately I'd have to get a gallon to be on the safe side. I'll have almost an entire quart left over with no use, but at least it's better than not having enough and not being able to refill the diff/trans (and not drive the car.)
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Apr 21, 2010 03:20
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One more thing. As I was working on the headlights I noticed the things I circled in the picture posted by Inu. Mine have black plastic covers over them, but once exposed they look exactly like in his photo. The red dial is adjustable, and spins when the headlights are extended/retracted, but I'm just wondering what they are. I figure they adjust the range the headlight travels, to control alignment or throw (and I probably shouldn't have adjusted one of them without knowing what it does) but I'd like to know for sure.
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Apr 21, 2010 03:25
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Manual headlight raise/lower.
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Apr 21, 2010 03:40
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If you turn them enough the headlight will wig out and go up then down to reset it's self.
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Apr 21, 2010 04:35
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-Inu- posted:Looks like the hoses/plastic up front have red paint spray on them. Maybe the bumper was resprayed while on the car?
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Apr 21, 2010 04:50
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Probably. The bumper that's on there right now has a pretty crappy rattlecan job.
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Apr 21, 2010 05:25
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Atomizer posted:I was originally going to go with MTL but 75W90 is specified for both the trans and diff, so I'm going to buy MT-90. I'm sorry! You're right, that's what I run too.
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Apr 21, 2010 13:37
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Those plug wires are likely OEM. They should be NGK brand.
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Apr 21, 2010 15:16
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