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After going to play mini-golf for my bday and for some reason watching the Masters (during my bday) I started jonesin' for some minigolf. I saw some of the stuff from this thread and it inspired me. My buddy, dad and I built built a 8x3 mini mini golf course and might add another 4ft board to make it longer or wider. All the obstacles are movable (pipes, ramps, pendulum wanna make a loop-de-loop tips??). Makin a drinkin game from it too    So any tips or suggestions to add with it? Not pictured, the flag pole at end of course, gonna get a vinyl flag made for it.
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Apr 17, 2010 19:29
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squarerandom posted:After going to play mini-golf for my bday and for some reason watching the Masters (during my bday) I started jonesin' for some minigolf. I saw some of the stuff from this thread and it inspired me. My buddy, dad and I built built a 8x3 mini mini golf course and might add another 4ft board to make it longer or wider. All the obstacles are movable (pipes, ramps, pendulum wanna make a loop-de-loop tips??). Makin a drinkin game from it too ^ That's a really cool idea that I might have to try. Did you make it so the boards latch together? How does it play so far?
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Apr 17, 2010 19:55
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JohnnySmitch posted:^ That's a really cool idea that I might have to try. Did you make it so the boards latch together? How does it play so far? nah we wanted no hinges so we can just take the side bars off and sit it against the wall incase if we wanted to add on more boards. It's a very unforgiving course, but It's pretty fun.
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Apr 17, 2010 20:10
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If you make it so that each board added on is just a bit higher than the others, then you can get a "waterfall" effect going for the ball rather than an awkward crease.
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Apr 18, 2010 13:34
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Wasn't going for a very decorative project since this is meant to be used at job sites, but I think it turned out looking pretty cool. More importantly, it sounds great. Still have to add a handle. No need to tell me that the photo sucks. I know.
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Apr 18, 2010 14:40
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Panzerschwein posted:If you make it so that each board added on is just a bit higher than the others, then you can get a "waterfall" effect going for the ball rather than an awkward crease. I was thinking that you could leave a flap of turf flying off the end that you could velcro down to the next board, so that the turf bridges the seam in the boards and could accommodate for the whole rig not being level.
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Apr 18, 2010 15:41
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Danger Kick posted:Wasn't going for a very decorative project since this is meant to be used at job sites, but I think it turned out looking pretty cool. More importantly, it sounds great. Still have to add a handle. Kickass. Battery or corded power?
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Apr 18, 2010 16:41
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It does 120 and 12 volt corded power. 240 volts as well, but that'll never get used. I could make it battery powered, but I would probably need some pretty hefty batteries for it to last long.
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Apr 18, 2010 17:44
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JohnnySmitch posted:I was thinking that you could leave a flap of turf flying off the end that you could velcro down to the next board, so that the turf bridges the seam in the boards and could accommodate for the whole rig not being level. The putting plank actually has that flap so we turned it around, works better now  . Next project is loop de loop and to get it to roll theball Back after making it in, but got plans for that.
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Apr 19, 2010 02:16
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GIANT POST! Hey guys... some progress on this saber now that I have found myself a job.  First off, I needed to strip any rust off the grenade. There was some light surface rust, and I used a wire brush in my dremel to shine it up for bluing.  I'll be using Birchwood Casey Super Blue on the grenade. This will be the first time I have tried this particular product.  If you do this, make sure to use rubber gloves and do this in a well ventilated area. This is some noxious stuff, so it's not for kids.  That white residue is bad news, I blast it off with some high pressure cold water.  After a few cycles through the chemical and knocking the gunk off that is generated, a nice dark blue is left. I need to let this rust a bit, but it's well on the way to matching my other saber.  Afterwards I will weather and darken the windvane, right now it's too pristine.  Next up is the emitter section. I have two complete emitters to work with, and I chose the unweathered cleaner outer section to go with. This will be easier to clean up and then hit with the Super Blue for darkening.  After using the same process from the grenade on the emitter, I chuck it up in the lathe and use some extra fine sandpaper to clean it back down, leaving nice darkened weathering in the crevices.  I left more darkened blued finish on the inside emitter section.  I still may need to work on this area, as it's not quite as close to my other saber as I'd like.  Also the windvane brass black didn't take hold quite as well as the other saber. I might have to break it down again and redo that part, but it will work for now.  Much closer to my first saber. I still need to add some rust and tweak some values, but I think it's much closer now. The next challenge is hiding the on off switch, and to hide a speaker volume knob someplace. Probably use one of the transistors as a volume control. I am also still awaiting my pommel.
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Apr 20, 2010 06:26
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Danger Kick posted:It does 120 and 12 volt corded power. 240 volts as well, but that'll never get used. I could make it battery powered, but I would probably need some pretty hefty batteries for it to last long. If your head unit is 4x50w that means that the maximum it can output as sound is 200w. Realistically it's not going to be anywhere near this most of the time - if we halve it, then add some overhead, we'll say 120w. At 12v, a 120w load will mean it's drawing 10 amps. 50Ah/10 = 5 hours. Realistically I don't know that you'll actually be loading it anywhere near 120w - at a wild guess, assuming you're not completely blasting it, you should get a working day out of a single battery, and then plug it in overnight to charge it. If needed you could throw a couple of car batteries at it to get even more capacity. Someone might be able to give you some more realistic numbers - might be easiest just to measure the actual drawer though, if you have a meter.
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Apr 20, 2010 07:23
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I decided to make a longboard last week. I had about 0$ to spend and no woodworking experience so i'm not sure how it's going to turn out. I present to you the ghetto board project!  Click here for the full 480x640 image. Getting my hands on some plywood was hard on a 0$ budget, so i had to use an old teak door i found in my fathers garage.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. It took me half an hour to split the two pieces because they where glued together with... hay? Wheat to be specific. Also the ply wasn't teak all the way through. It was more like 1mm teak and 3mm cardboard.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Here's the first cut out. I wasn't sure if the carboard could hold my weight so decided to put a piece of pine wood ply in the between the door pieces.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Ghetto press.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I hosed up big time with the table saw so it turned out pretty uneven.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I'm pretty happy with the curve tho. After i finnish this i'm investing in some real ply for another build. Any suggestions on what not to do next time?
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Apr 20, 2010 20:59
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Posted in AI We put an fm antenna inside the box, and whenever we power it with something insulated like a car or cordless drill battery we can pick up 15-20 stations. As soon as we attach this thing to an ac outlet and it grounds to earth, we're lucky to get two stations. Anyone have any ideas?
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Apr 20, 2010 22:54
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I can't help you, but I can tell you that I run a car stereo in my garage powered off an old ATX power supply. Theoretically it's grounded fine (though with my garage I wouldn't guarantee it!) and I get fine reception. I'm currently using a Sony head unit, previously had an Alpine one.
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Apr 21, 2010 07:20
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Danger Kick posted:Posted in AI The AC-DC rectification might be causing a lot of noise, or you might have just made a faraday cage.
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Apr 21, 2010 07:50
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Danger Kick posted:Posted in AI Your transformer is probably doing one <or all> of the following: ->Making a lot of noise, as previously mentioned ->once attached to ground is acting as a parasitic antenna and dumping signal strength along the ground line ->you have additional grounded components inside the box that once attached to an earth ground make a faraday cage. <also previously mentioned> My suggestion for fixing this is to put the transformer external to the box <like a laptop power brick, outlet--120--power brick--12--speaker box> that should solve problems 1 and 2 above, if it turns out to be 3 you may have to make a local ground which is not the same as earth ground to connect the case components to.
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Apr 21, 2010 20:06
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We've determined that the ac effect is actually pretty small. We had been testing this thing in the middle of nowhere where we barely got any stations anyway. Once this thing makes it to civilization, the effect of plugging it is not noticeable.
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Apr 22, 2010 02:52
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I work in a (now sadly tripled) 1930's art deco movie palace, and they had a few original seat parts in the store room. They have let me take enough parts to make up two seats. These are locally built mid 30's hardwood art deco with permanent bottoms all hand built at the workshops of our cities largest but now defunct department store. When I get them home I will take photos and document the restoration.
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Apr 22, 2010 11:12
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Not nearly as cool as some of the stuff in this thread, but I got sick of my messy garage and too much equipment. I had some 2x6 PT lying around from another project, so I built a heavy-duty shelf for off-season equipment.
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Apr 28, 2010 22:02
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So what's wrong with the snow blower? No normal person stores something like that on a table unless it's broke.
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Apr 28, 2010 22:05
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What the hell? how did you bring your snowblower up there and more importantly, why? You should have made the shelve high enough to stow it underneath with the handles folded / chute removed. Uhm nice job making it strong though.
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Apr 28, 2010 22:21
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I think we are all skipping the fact that he has a COMPLETELY AWESOME SNOWBLOWER. Seriously, where do you live, upper Michigan? That thing's a monster!
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Apr 28, 2010 22:57
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IsaacNewton posted:What the hell? how did you bring your snowblower up there and more importantly, why? You should have made the shelve high enough to stow it underneath with the handles folded / chute removed. He probably drove it up temporary ramps. Those things often have driven wheels. e: that tiller definitely does, I think my parents have that same model
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Apr 28, 2010 23:02
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dv6speed posted:So what's wrong with the snow blower? No normal person stores something like that on a table unless it's broke. Nothing's wrong with it, or the tiller. The goal was to utilize the high ceilings in my garage. I won't be using the snowblower again for 8 more months, and I use the tiller seldomly. In the winter, my lawnmower will take the place of the snowblower up there. IsaacNewton posted:What the hell? how did you bring your snowblower up there and more importantly, why? You should have made the shelve high enough to stow it underneath with the handles folded / chute removed. See above. And besides, I have a generator, GrassHopper, and two mopeds underneath fahrvergnugen posted:I think we are all skipping the fact that he has a COMPLETELY AWESOME SNOWBLOWER. Seriously, where do you live, upper Michigan? That thing's a monster! New Hampshire. This thing has gone through everything mother nature has thrown at it. Slung Blade posted:He probably drove it up temporary ramps. Yup, both are self-propelled. You can actually see the two ramps I use stacked on the edge of the table - 2x10x8 nominal oak, the same poo poo they make construction trailer decks out of. Why so big? Because at $16 total, they're the same price as standard 2x10s. There's a sawmill with an awesome price schedule and product portfolio about 5 minutes from my house.
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Apr 29, 2010 00:41
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Richard Noggin posted:Yup, both are self-propelled. You can actually see the two ramps I use stacked on the edge of the table - 2x10x8 nominal oak, the same poo poo they make construction trailer decks out of. Why so big? Because at $16 total, they're the same price as standard 2x10s. There's a sawmill with an awesome price schedule and product portfolio about 5 minutes from my house. Hey, I have that tiller too. I can't imagine trying to manhandle that beast up those planks, though. Looks like they would make a wickedly steep ramp up to that table (unless the perspective in that shot is more screwed than it appears). Also, if you don't mind my asking, what is that orange bike-looking thing peeking out from underneath?
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Apr 29, 2010 02:13
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It's really not that difficult. That's the other nice thing about the ramps - no flex. The orange thing is my Motobecane 50V moped. You can see its yellow twin behind it. My grandfather gave them to me last year. I have the orange one running, just need a carb and an exhaust for the yellow one. e: and just to give perspective, the shelf is 4x8 and 4' high.
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Apr 29, 2010 02:38
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I made a tiger for my sister's rapidly approaching baby. I just kind of went for it, didn't measure anything or use a pattern, so there are some rough spots, but it gives it a unique feel.  Never made a stuffed animal before, but it was a fun experience. I also earned a shitload of brownie points by making my girlfriend a little version with some of the leftover material. 
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May 2, 2010 00:16
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crabrock posted:I made a tiger for my sister's rapidly approaching baby. I just kind of went for it, didn't measure anything or use a pattern, so there are some rough spots, but it gives it a unique feel. Holy.... my buddy just announced he and his wife were having a baby... mind if I steal your brilliant idea? edit: how tall is hobbess from head to bottom of torso? about 18-24" ? Hadlock fucked around with this message at 05:32 on May 2, 2010 |
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May 2, 2010 05:00
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I'm trying to get my friends together to do a remake of MST3K, complete with silhouettes at the bottom and short skits with "commercial breaks" and everything. I've been putting in a lot of work on it lately, and I think I've got two of the shows main characters finished mostly. Any suggestions? They have movable heads and mouths and the blue one "Vic D. Circuit" has movable eyes as well. I still don't have a name for the small one tho. Extreme_Matt fucked around with this message at 06:41 on May 4, 2010 |
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May 4, 2010 06:33
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I can't give you any cool suggestions, but I want to ask when, how, and where you will be distrubuting the content afterwards.
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May 4, 2010 23:02
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I think I am going to upload it to youtube in a few chunks, or to another video site that will allow for longer uploads. I'm not sure if anyone one will get pissed at us for making it, but I'm probably going to send the link for it to Riff Trax somehow and just see what happens. I just want to pay homage to someone that inspired me throughout my childhood. As far as WHEN it's going to be completed, I'm not 100% sure. I just have to keep working diligently and stay focused on getting this done.
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May 4, 2010 23:53
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Jumping on the not very impressive, but I had fun bandwagon. I'm cheap, and looking for "free" stuff to do around the house. We have a good sized furnace room that I wanted to clean out and make it a storage room so I can then remove our storage room and get a pool table. Sorry in advance for the cellphone pics. Looking at the wall with the door. Exposed insulation, bleck.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Looking in from the doorway, messy messy.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The other corner of the room (straight on of you were in the doorway)  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. We had some ugly paneling that we got from another room I ripped out of the basement, better to be ugly than exposed insulation. Here's the one wall done. I duct-taped the seams because I could, and I didn't want to cut any panels length-wise. Would have taken too long.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Here is the other wall done (gun safe was in the house when we bought it - mounted to the wall). It's open, but we don't have a key for it. Or guns   Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. And again, since we already took out a room down in the basement (and a massive bar), I saved the lumber so I could build this! I liked it so much I recently built another one of the same size so I could stack them if I really wanted to. I made it 75" so it would fit that wall exactly.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Now it's sorta kinda like a workshop, and I like it so much that now I'm wondering where I'm going to put the storage room and still have room for the pool table.
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May 5, 2010 16:12
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My Cupcake CNC 3D printer is done! What's that, you ask? Well, It's when you take this  Click here for the full 999x608 image. and turn it into this  using this  and this  which I built from a kit. (And for you spergy people, it's all done with free software.)
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May 5, 2010 19:38
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cultureulterior posted:My Cupcake CNC 3D printer is done! That's pretty awesome! How hard/long was it to build? I use a couple different 3d printers at work (which are pretty ungodly expensive), and I've been pretty interested in the Cupcake ever since I first heard about it.
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May 5, 2010 19:47
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Oh, it took me ages, but it can probably be done in a long weekend by someone who is dedicated and who has all his tools ready, especially as they now sell the electronics almost complete. Calibrating it is a bit of a chore, however, and I'm still not done with that- the cup can't hold water yet, for example.
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May 5, 2010 20:01
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What's the resolution & material?
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May 5, 2010 21:08
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ABS plastic, and in theory >1 cubic millimeter, though right now I'm seeing a lot of backlash on the X and Y axis.
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May 5, 2010 21:49
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I hated the wheelchair ramp my house had when I bought it, so I turned it into stairs. I would have torn the whole thing down because there are concrete stairs underneath, but the vinyl siding was installed with the ramp in place. arggg (Mid-teardown. I've gotten a better hammer. As you can see by the lack of leaves on the shrubs, it's taken me 6 months to finally put the railing on today, but the stairs were -fairly- safe in the meantime.)  The stringers are oddly spaced because of how the platform overhangs the grass, and I'm considering a third in the center but it feels pretty solid as-is. I really don't want to because the stringers were a pain in the neck to cut by hand, since the odd fractional deck height led to some serious pythagorean theorem use. (My neighbor claims to have a book with all this math, but he didn't tell me that till I was done.) Time to stain! eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 06:00 on May 6, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 05:43
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Is the last section poured concrete and that's why you didn't tear out the last 6 feet leading up to the door?
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May 6, 2010 09:36
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Hadlock posted:Is the last section poured concrete and that's why you didn't tear out the last 6 feet leading up to the door? If you're asking why I didn't tear out the entire platform, the vinyl siding was only installed down to the deck. Siding is installed from the bottom up, so I would have had to pull down all of the siding on the whole side of the house, move the starter strip down, source some new matching siding for the "new" half a foot, then reinstall it all. Not gonna happen. If you mean why didn't I remove enough of the platform that the stairs could exit straight toward the street, that would have required some major reworking of the supports. I really don't mind the L-bend. From above, the deck is kind of a U shape now because it extends all the way behind the shrubs.
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May 6, 2010 17:45
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