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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Would it be worth it for a 600cc inline 4? For most modern 600cc inline 4 I really doubt it. It would depend greatly upon how you wish to drive it. If it for racing, yeah, might. If it's for transportation and fun, hardly.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 00:24 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 05:40 |
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Blaster of Justice posted:The DRZ is understandable. The SV however. Pffff. Every claim that doesn't have a bench readout to back it up should remain silent. Stock/Flatslides/Flatslides+Intake Cam (gen 1). I wish the dyno graph was a bit more expansive on the rev range, but as you can see, there's some pretty decent gains there. Blaster of Justice posted:For most modern 600cc inline 4 I really doubt it. It would depend greatly upon how you wish to drive it. If it for racing, yeah, might. If it's for transportation and fun, hardly. It'd sound great though. Isn't that really worth it all? Z3n fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Apr 23, 2010 |
# ? Apr 23, 2010 00:27 |
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Here's what the company sent me in response:quote:The FCR 33mm and 35mm carbs are not imported into the USA anymore due to slow sales, however there is one set of the FCR 33mm carbs left. The retail for $1147.65 . We sell them for $1029 . Little bit out of my price range considering that the carbs would be worth almost as much as the bike.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 00:37 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Here's what the company sent me in response: Unless you plan on keeping the bike forever, I wouldn't bother. Or if you could find a used set for cheap, they come up sometimes. Keep an eye out on ebay.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 00:39 |
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quote:not imported into the USA anymore due to slow sales
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 00:54 |
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8ender posted:I was wondering this as well. Here in Ontario we get a sticker for our plate and the cops go after plates with expired tags when they get bored. Cops in Australia don't even have to be bored to go looking for expired rego - they now have a camera fitted to some patrol cars which is constantly reading the plates of cars around them, and cross-checking against the registration database. I think it can scan 5 plates a second or something like that, and they get a pretty much instant notification of a car with lapsed rego if the camera spots one. Of course, we have compulsory third party injury insurance which goes along with our rego, so if you're not registered you're not insured either, so it's something which needs to be policed to try to ensure nobody gets shafted when they get injured by a douchebag in an unregistered vehicle. Some years back a friend of mine got a fine of over $1000 while borrowing her mother's car, which it turns out her mother had forgotten to register.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 02:36 |
I'm going to be moving anywhere from 300 to 3000 miles in a couple years. Is it unreasonable to want to pull two bikes behind my wife's corolla on a trailer? It's an auto, so I'm sure it'd heat up a bit more than otherwise, but my only other option is to make a couple trips because we'll be driving a uhaul as well, almost certainly. We're talking a vulcan 900 and a v star 650ish (I can't remember what displacement hers is exactly, but it's in that area.)
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 02:59 |
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Blaster of Justice posted:The DRZ is understandable. The SV however. Pffff. Every claim that doesn't have a bench readout to back it up should remain silent. Z3n posted:Welp.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 03:22 |
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Bad Munki posted:I'm going to be moving anywhere from 300 to 3000 miles in a couple years. Is it unreasonable to want to pull two bikes behind my wife's corolla on a trailer? It's an auto, so I'm sure it'd heat up a bit more than otherwise, but my only other option is to make a couple trips because we'll be driving a uhaul as well, almost certainly. Ship everything and ride the motorcycles.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 05:25 |
When the final destination is optimally Alaska, shipping costs are a bitch. Otherwise, yeah, totally.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 05:52 |
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Bad Munki posted:When the final destination is optimally Alaska, shipping costs are a bitch. Otherwise, yeah, totally. Ahh, yeah, that kinda changes things. I'd load the bike in the uhaul, personally. I've done that in the past. Or you could pull a small trailer behind a uhaul. It's definitely possible to pull a trailer behind a Corolla, but on a trip that long I'd be kinda leery.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 05:55 |
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Blaster of Justice posted:Yes, if you're an idiot. What? Flatslides work great on large displacement bikes. Tons of people do it and it makes a huge difference. See: GSXR-1100's/Bandits/ZX-9/12R's, basically any large bike with carbs, really. How do flatslides diffuse the flow too much? All thats in the venturi of a wide open flatslide is the needle. On a CV you have the needle and the butterfly, plus the shaft that the butterfly is mounted to. How can that be less diffusion? If you're having fast open issues with a flatslide, you need to adjust your accelerator pump, thats what its there for. Blaster of Justice posted:The DRZ is understandable. The SV however. Pffff. Every claim that doesn't have a bench readout to back it up should remain silent. Its not only the horsepower that makes a difference, its where the bike makes power. Even if certain bikes dont make a ton more power with flatslides, they make much more usable power, and the overall curve is affected. But I see Z3n has already put that to rest. Thanks for calling us idiots though Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Apr 23, 2010 |
# ? Apr 23, 2010 05:56 |
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Bad Munki posted:When the final destination is optimally Alaska, shipping costs are a bitch. Otherwise, yeah, totally. Oh do I know this. Getting anything here is expensive, and if it has to go freight, it is ruinous. Breaking it down to >70 lb packages would eb the cheapest way.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 05:59 |
Z3n posted:Ahh, yeah, that kinda changes things. I'd load the bike in the uhaul, personally. I've done that in the past. Or you could pull a small trailer behind a uhaul. It's definitely possible to pull a trailer behind a Corolla, but on a trip that long I'd be kinda leery. I don't wanna get a uhaul big enough to safely fit two bikes and all our worldly belongings. Actually, I'm strongly considering putting the bikes in storage, moving, and coming back a few months later for a two-wheeled roadtrip. Gnomad posted:Oh do I know this. Getting anything here is expensive, and if it has to go freight, it is ruinous. Breaking it down to >70 lb packages would eb the cheapest way. You in AK? Whereabouts? That is to say, Anchorage, or Fairbanks?
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 06:07 |
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Phat_Albert posted:Its not only the horsepower that makes a difference, its where the bike makes power. Even if certain bikes dont make a ton more power with flatslides, they make much more usable power, and the overall curve is affected. The change in throttle response was astounding on my SV. So loving good. For a race/track bike, it was worth it for that alone, never mind the fantastic increase in power and midrange. People will dump bank on tunes that never get throttle response like that. Same with my DRZ to a slightly lesser degree, as I still need to tune things a little more on that bike. I had the advantage of knowing pretty much the right setup for my SV out of the box thanks to TWF/Zoran and all the other SV guys, but that bike never saw the inside of a dyno room, was just set up with Zoran's jetting specs and Gregg Spears of Spears racing tuned the carbs at idle in the paddock for me, by ear, and did a fantastic job. I probably would have gotten a bit more out of them with a proper tune, but it wasn't the carbs fault that I was loving slow Bad Munki posted:I don't wanna get a uhaul big enough to safely fit two bikes and all our worldly belongings. When we were moving, we discovered that all in, it was worth it overall to get the bigger truck, but I don't know the details of your trip...but if you had a place to store them, it seems like the road trip option would be the best of all worlds. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Apr 23, 2010 |
# ? Apr 23, 2010 06:26 |
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Regarding tools: How is the stuff from Harbor Freight? I'm thinking of ordering a few things, they have a brake bleeder kit for 4$, and a 1/2 inch socket set for 30$ some 3/8 hex bits for 10$, it all seems really cheap, it is pretty good quality wise?
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 07:08 |
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infraboy posted:Regarding tools: How is the stuff from Harbor Freight? I'm thinking of ordering a few things, they have a brake bleeder kit for 4$, and a 1/2 inch socket set for 30$ some 3/8 hex bits for 10$, it all seems really cheap, it is pretty good quality wise? I would stay away from their air compressors/power tools, I've had good luck with all the hand/air tools I've bought from them but got one crappy air compressor (stopped working after 2 years) and a crappy sawzall knockoff. I buy almost all my tools from harbor freight. I also never break tools and always use the right tool. I have a friend who only buys craftsman because he says HF tools are junk and break all the time. He also constantly breaks craftsman tools due to using them like an idiot so that kind of negates his argument. Bottom line Unless you are a mechanic and intend to use them everyday or a hammer mechanic who constantly breaks tools due to stupidity they should be great. Also sign up for their flyers/look in car mags and maxim ect.. for their coupons. It seems like 1/3 of the store is on sale at any one time and it rotates which 1/3 each week so if you know you will need something watch for it to go on sale. Just the other week I needed a 12mm allen key to adjust my chain and the only place that had one was sears for 7.99. I went to harbor and got a whole set of allen sockets up to 16mm for $12.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 07:38 |
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Bad Munki posted:
Wasilla area. We have some great roads here, for sport or dual sport. Even some good trails.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 08:01 |
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infraboy posted:Regarding tools: How is the stuff from Harbor Freight? I'm thinking of ordering a few things, they have a brake bleeder kit for 4$, and a 1/2 inch socket set for 30$ some 3/8 hex bits for 10$, it all seems really cheap, it is pretty good quality wise? Anything unpowered is great. Highly recommended. The Pittsburgh sockets and tools are pure gold for the price. I've heard horrible things about their powertools, but my cordless impact hammer has been fine for a year. Maybe I'm just lucky.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 14:41 |
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infraboy posted:Regarding tools: How is the stuff from Harbor Freight? I'm thinking of ordering a few things, they have a brake bleeder kit for 4$, and a 1/2 inch socket set for 30$ some 3/8 hex bits for 10$, it all seems really cheap, it is pretty good quality wise? Check out the tools thread in AI. Lots of people have posted what works well and what doesn't from their own experience there.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:34 |
Here's a totally random and quite possibly unanswerable question: I have a 2007 vulcan 900 custom. Freakin' love it, this is the Bike for Me. It's a cruiser, but it's got just a little bit of sport to it. The previous owner was a mechanic and made a couple modifications, nothing major...cobra exhaust, nicer mirrors, pulled a couple extra pieces off and got them chromed, and (my favorite) removed the tail light assembly in order to mount the blinkers further forward on the sides of the fender, and made a new license plate mount so the plate sits tucked tight up against the fender. Much cleaner lines. Anyhow, I want to get to know my bike better, and make it more mine. What sorts of things can I, a complete plebe, do to improve my bike? Cosmetic is fine, performance is fine, I just want to be more...umm...intimate with the bike, and maybe learn a few things in the process.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:40 |
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Bad Munki posted:Here's a totally random and quite possibly unanswerable question: I would start with some useful upgrades like steel braided brake lines. Something like that will let you work on the bike, and will provide a noticeable braking performance increase to boot. You could put some nice pads on as well while you're in there. Pretty simple work, will let you get familiar with the bike, and you will have made a noticeable change to it as well.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:47 |
Sweet, I'll look into that. Thanks for the tip. I'm a total layman. Is this something I should wait until fall to do, on account of maybe I'll need longer than expected to get it all sorted out? Or is this more like a 2-hour job for an experienced person, so maybe a day or two for me? I don't want the bike to be out of commission any longer than it has to. Weather's been nice this year. The pads I'm sure I can handle, as long as the brakes aren't that different from a car. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:51 |
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Bad Munki posted:Here's a totally random and quite possibly unanswerable question: Swap the handlebars, seat, and maybe move the controls so the bike really fits you. If you haven't already, adjust the shifter, the brake levers, and the clutch so that everything engages exactly where you want it to and falls easily to hand.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:52 |
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Bad Munki posted:Here's a totally random and quite possibly unanswerable question: Get a service manual like Clymer. Read that thing front to cover. Second, wash your bike by hand. It sounds silly, but the more time you spend examining every little crevice, the more familiar you become with your bike. Plus it gives you an excuse / reason to look for things like loose screws. Third, do your own maintenance. Bleed brakes. Change pads. Change the oil. Fourth - browse websites, enthusiast forums, and eBay for parts and mods. You'll get a good feel for what's out there, what's popular, what the common gremlins are, what's easy, and what's not. Basically, the more time you spend with your bike, the better you get to know it.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:55 |
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Bad Munki posted:Sweet, I'll look into that. Thanks for the tip. Someone experienced could get it done in a couple of hours. The hardest part will be not getting brake fluid where it doesnt belong, and bleeding the lines.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:57 |
Yeah, I always hand wash the bike. My garage is also my "wood shop," such as it is, so the thing gets covered in dust pretty drat fast, even if I'm not working out there. If I'm not working, I have to wash it every few weeks. If I am working out there, even if I move the bike out, I have to wash it like once a week. If I want to look respectable, that is. I don't need everything to shine all the time, but it shouldn't look gray from copious amounts of wood dust.
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# ? Apr 23, 2010 16:59 |
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My right fork is leaking pretty good on my 07 600RR Good thing my dad pointed it out or I could have had a scary right turn. Is this normal with < 7k miles?!
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 00:29 |
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Bob Morales posted:Is this normal with < 7k miles?! Eh... no, but not unheard of. Grab a business card and clean that sucker out!
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 00:33 |
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Ok so I need some emergency help as I'm going to look at a bike tomorrow morning. The bike is a 2001 WR250F for about $1800 Canadian (although he said he is willing to lower the price). The reason why it's so cheap is he describes it as needing work saying exactly "Runs ok but doesn’t idle well and accelerates kinda erratic. Carb." Now I have no problem with working on the bike and am not new to amateur mechanical work but I AM new to buying a bike. Can anyone help me out with things I should look for when I go check it out. Even better if anyone knows of any issues with this year/model. For any goons in Ontario the bike (dirtbike) is apparently blue plated which makes it more valuable to me as that means it can be driven on the road street legal. I am not entirely sure about this "blue plate" process but I know that they MTO stopped doing in in 2007. If anyone can tell me what to look for on the ownership to ensure it's able to take street plates I would be in your debt forever. Also we can go riding in the ganny.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 04:46 |
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Being an enormous moron, I've neglected to inspect my valve clearance for 1.5 times the recommended interval (recommended is 8k and it's been 13k). Would out-of-spec valves cause reduced gas mileage and power? Also, where's a good place to get some feeler gauges? I have a feeling the big boxers aren't going to have something that specific.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 14:08 |
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The NonBornKing posted:Also, where's a good place to get some feeler gauges? I have a feeling the big boxers aren't going to have something that specific.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 14:27 |
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The NonBornKing posted:Being an enormous moron, I've neglected to inspect my valve clearance for 1.5 times the recommended interval (recommended is 8k and it's been 13k). Would out-of-spec valves cause reduced gas mileage and power? Any auto parts store will have them. I've also found them at a hobbyist electronics shop, of all places.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 17:02 |
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Out of spec valve definitely can cause odd running problems but they'd have to be pretty far out to do that. I'm supposed to do mine every 6k but leave them go for 10 because when I check them at 6 they have all been within .001-.002mm from where I set them. Still very much ok since I set them to loose spec. Harbor Freight sells a pretty nice set of feeler gauges for only a few bucks. Make sure you check what sizes are in the set before you buy. My MAC set I use for cars had .12mm as the smallest where my bike needs a .008-.013mm. You need to make sure it's got the paper thin ones in it.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 17:23 |
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Bob Morales posted:My right fork is leaking pretty good on my 07 600RR Ugh. Looks like it leaked all over the disc. You'd best be changing those brake pads, if so. Sometimes I really hate inverted forks.
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 18:09 |
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King no one posted:Ok so I need some emergency help as I'm going to look at a bike tomorrow morning. The bike is a 2001 WR250F for about $1800 Canadian (although he said he is willing to lower the price). The reason why it's so cheap is he describes it as needing work saying exactly "Runs ok but doesn’t idle well and accelerates kinda erratic. Carb." This is stupid exhaustive, but it covers literally everything: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html Can't help on the plate issue, though
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 21:50 |
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Z3n posted:This is stupid exhaustive, but it covers literally everything: Thanks for that. I bought the bike for a bit shy of $1600. The guy even drove it to my brothers which was nice. I cleared up the plate issue which is great. It can be street plated but I need to put some work into it (or find a shady mechanic). I'm so excited to go riding now!
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# ? Apr 24, 2010 23:56 |
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Sweet bike, now you just need a set of these http://www.motostrano.com/sucokibabo.html
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 01:56 |
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King no one posted:Thanks for that. I bought the bike for a bit shy of $1600. The guy even drove it to my brothers which was nice. I ride an 06. Check the valves.
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 13:21 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 05:40 |
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Will do. No thanks of the rims though. It's almost as much as the bike. Getting a second set with street tires would be nice though.
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# ? Apr 25, 2010 15:35 |