|
It won't hurt, but it won't do anything without heavy modifications, either.
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 19:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:03 |
|
|
Lunchb0x posted:I have a 81 suzuki gs450. Place by my house sell 100+ octane leaded gas. Is that a bad idea? For your wallet, yes. High octane fuel isnt some magical power maker. Its only point is to prevent detonation on high-compression motors, of which the GS450 is not.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 19:52
|
|
|
Lunchb0x posted:I have a 81 suzuki gs450. Place by my house sell 100+ octane leaded gas. Is that a bad idea? The higher octane burns at lower temps which will cause performance problems. Also if you let it sit in your tank overnight it'll gently caress up all the internals.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 19:54
|
|
|
How will letting high octane fuel sit in your tank for one night mess it up?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:32
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:How will letting high octane fuel sit in your tank for one night mess it up? It's extremely corrosive.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:40
|
|
|
I don't think that's true of leaded 100 octane. Race gas turns into some nasty rear end poo poo that will clog the hell out of your fuel system, but leaded 100 octane sold out of a pump isn't that kind of stuff. Still, it's going to do absolutely nothing good, it won't add power, it'll just drain money out of your wallet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:48
|
|
|
I'm planning a riding trip see Doctor Zero in Tennessee. I live in Metro Detroit, so I'm looking at least 11 hours of riding. I know my R6 isn't the most conducive machine for touring (HA HA HA HA), but I intend to take it down there anyway. So far I've picked up or planning on picking up: Luggage: - Recon magnetic tank bag - Nelson Rig tail bag - Matching Nelson Rig saddle bags GPS/Entertainment/Comfort - Stem Ram Mount for my Garmin Nuvi 255 - iPhone with...um...earbuds - Sunglasses - I might get a hydro pack for my tank bag - Throttle rocker (straps to the throttle for your wrist thingy) I might try to wire in an accessory plug somewhere to keep the iPhone and Garmin charged. That should be fun on this bike  Riding Gear - My textile FieldSheer rain resistant jacket - Joe rocket Leather pants - My doc martins tanker boots (yeah yeah yeah I know at least they are thick leather and have buckles) - Joe rocket gloves...of some sort - HJC Helmet Maintenance stuff - Chain wax - I guess I need a tire repair kit?  My question to all of you, what did you not bring that you absolutely wish you had on a tour? What did you bring that was a waste? Am I missing an obvious thing?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:50
|
|
|
Zip ties, a spare quart of oil, air compressor (unless it's included in the tire repair kit) and a camera. edit: and a copy of The Best of the Alan Parsons Project
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:54
|
|
|
So I was reading up on a couple debates circulating around whether lubricating the outside of your chain is really necessary. It seems like one opinion is that for an O-ring or X-ring chain, all the required lube is trapped inside the rings, so your only job is to keep the exterior rust-free and clean, which would only require something like WD-40. Then there are people who think that WD-40 can actually displace lube in the seals and CAUSE rust. And lastly you have those who use WD-40 to clean the chain and then lube it with a chain lube. Edit: Realized there is no question in here, so here is the question: which is right hurrr
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 20:55
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:So I was reading up on a couple debates circulating around whether lubricating the outside of your chain is really necessary. It seems like one opinion is that for an O-ring or X-ring chain, all the required lube is trapped inside the rings, so your only job is to keep the exterior rust-free and clean, which would only require something like WD-40. Then there are people who think that WD-40 can actually displace lube in the seals and CAUSE rust. And lastly you have those who use WD-40 to clean the chain and then lube it with a chain lube. There is specific lubricant made for motorcycle chains that you can spray on. There is also a specific cleaner made for chains. You should clean and lube your chains every 600 miles, and every 100 miles in rain. This will reduce the amount of times needed to do chain adjustments and increase the life of the chain.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:03
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:So I was reading up on a couple debates circulating around whether lubricating the outside of your chain is really necessary. It seems like one opinion is that for an O-ring or X-ring chain, all the required lube is trapped inside the rings, so your only job is to keep the exterior rust-free and clean, which would only require something like WD-40. Then there are people who think that WD-40 can actually displace lube in the seals and CAUSE rust. And lastly you have those who use WD-40 to clean the chain and then lube it with a chain lube. Define "outside". Do you mean the plates? No, they're just metal plates. All of the lube is sealed in from the factory. The important thing is maintaining the seal between the orings and the plates around it. Keeping them clean does reduce the chances of grime getting into the o-rings and chewing them up though. I remember reading an experiment that a guy did awhile back where he sprayed one set of orings with WD40, wiped one set with WD40, and put the last set in gear oil, and then measured elasticity. Apparently, WD40 is fine but the aerosol component in WD40 can cause breakdown in rubber. But then remember that WD40 isn't technically a lubricant...it's a water displacer. There is a difference. Crayvex posted:I'm planning a riding trip see Doctor Zero in Tennessee. I live in Metro Detroit, so I'm looking at least 11 hours of riding. I know my R6 isn't the most conducive machine for touring (HA HA HA HA), but I intend to take it down there anyway. So far I've picked up or planning on picking up: I'd get some quality earbuds, etymotics or whatever you like? Also, beg/borrow/ Jack the Smack posted:There is specific lubricant made for motorcycle chains that you can spray on. There is also a specific cleaner made for chains. You should clean and lube your chains every 600 miles, and every 100 miles in rain. This will reduce the amount of times needed to do chain adjustments and increase the life of the chain. If you read your manual it will recommend 90w gear oil. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:06
|
|
|
I've always wondered how you lube a chain with gear oil...just oil up a rag and wipe it down? Seems like you'd spill that poo poo everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:21
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:My question to all of you, what did you not bring that you absolutely wish you had on a tour? What did you bring that was a waste? Am I missing an obvious thing? Some kind of bee repellent.  This is my impression of me and tex after we got bees in our bonnets 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:23
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I've always wondered how you lube a chain with gear oil...just oil up a rag and wipe it down? Seems like you'd spill that poo poo everywhere. Gear oil comes in a bottle with a spout. Run a bead of oil down the orings and wipe off as much excess as you can. Keeps the chain clean too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Some kind of bee repellent. Actually that's what Tex told me as well! I'm surprised no one has brought up rain gear.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:27
|
|
|
I'd add - flashlight spare fuses plexus (or whatever you use) and a soft cloth to clean your visor ibuprofen
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:43
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I've always wondered how you lube a chain with gear oil...just oil up a rag and wipe it down? Seems like you'd spill that poo poo everywhere. I pour it directly on the inside of the chain (the top of the chain just before it is underneath the rear sprocket), wipe up the excess with a rag, and go for a ride to allow science to push the oil through the chain. I get a ton of throw off doing it this way but my chain is cleaner than when I use the grunge brush and chain cleaner stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:58
|
|
|
sirbeefalot posted:I just mentioned that because I did that with my car. I was checking/changing the plugs anyway, so I pulled them, poured a small amount into each cylinder and let it sit, replaced the old plugs and ran it after 10-15 minutes for the glorious white smokescreen. Its essentially the same as running it through a vacuum line until the engine stalls. You mentioned not using it in the intake to protect the valves, where do you think its coming in when its in the fuel? I agree on maybe not putting it in the oil, but even that shouldn't be a problem if you are careful about it. You're supposed to run it for like 20 miles in the oil and then change it (in a car). The problem with pouring it in plug holes is that you are skipping cleaning the intake. When mixed in the fuel you are lessening the effect on the intake/valves by cutting it with gas. I would be wary of putting it in the oil on a bike due to the clutch being bathed in the oil and the carbon and crap you free up getting flushed into the clutch rather than out. Another issue is you may get oil leaks if you clean the crap that was keeping the oil inside the motor. You can put seafoam wherever you want but I would be careful putting it in a bike except when mixed with gas. I'm sure some people have done it several times with no problems just like using non motorcycle oil when changing the oil but I don't want to rebuild my clutch or replace all the gaskets when it starts leaking.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 21:59
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:I pour it directly on the inside of the chain (the top of the chain just before it is underneath the rear sprocket), wipe up the excess with a rag, and go for a ride to allow science to push the oil through the chain. I get a ton of throw off doing it this way but my chain is cleaner than when I use the grunge brush and chain cleaner stuff. Everyone tells me to ride before to warm up the chain, so that the chain is hot and can absorb the oil better. Then you let the bike sit for a while after cleaning and lubing. I personally oil the chain after I'm done riding for the day so it can sit overnight. Even the dealership's mechanics that I go to says this is the way to properly lubricate a chain.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 22:31
|
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:Everyone tells me to ride before to warm up the chain, so that the chain is hot and can absorb the oil better. Then you let the bike sit for a while after cleaning and lubing. I personally oil the chain after I'm done riding for the day so it can sit overnight. Even the dealership's mechanics that I go to says this is the way to properly lubricate a chain. I wasn't aware of rubber being able to absorb things, much less needing to be hot to do it. I guess the metal expands around the o-rings allowing the oil to seep past them?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 22:37
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:I wasn't aware of rubber being able to absorb things, much less needing to be hot to do it. I guess the metal expands around the o-rings allowing the oil to seep past them? I'm not sure of the exact parts that expand to let in chain lube. People who use automatic chain lubricants though have them on when they're riding, while the chain is warmed up, and they get tens of thousands of miles on their chain. If lubing it while cold was the better method, I don't think the automatic chain lubricators would work as well as they do.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 22:46
|
|
|
I've had 30k+ on chains, and I always lube them cold (keep selling bikes before the chains wear out  ). I think that may be a holdover from the days of non-oring chains, but I have no idea.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 22:52
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I've had 30k+ on chains, and I always lube them cold (keep selling bikes before the chains wear out How often do you lubricate them?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 22:59
|
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:How often do you lubricate them? Every couple tanks of gas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 23:00
|
|
|
That heat thing seems like a relic from the times where the lubricant actually had to penetrate the rollers. Just went through my notes and my chain now has 13,000 km on it and should be considered sort of worn I suppose. I'll try to do a macro shot of a link some day and see if there's some info to be had from the condition of the rings. I've been using a chain purpose citrus cleaner to clean it and a teflon dry spray (not the magic DuPont one, it says PTFE on the can) and near as I can tell it has worked pretty well. It certainly has been very easy to clean. The ideal substance will keep the rubber seal fresh, it will shield the rubber from grinding grit without making grit stick to itself in the process, it will be flexible or viscous enough to allow for the chain motion but it won't shift or be flung off in the process. If gear oil works well, what about those moly/ptfe paste things?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 23:09
|
|
|
Can we talk dualsport form? When I'm riding my KLR on dirt roads (usually hardpack), it feels very unnatural to position myself on the inside of of the bike during a turn. What I usually end up doing is basically moving the bike underneath me, especially at 35-40mph+. Is this okay, or am I endangering myself? It's also possible I'm running too high PSI in my tires for offroad, what do people typically run for better offroad stability? Additionally, does running the lower offroad PSI compromise on-road handling considerably? While I enjoy riding on dirt, I still have to get there on tarmac.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 23:18
|
|
|
Fantastipotamus posted:Can we talk dualsport form? When I'm riding my KLR on dirt roads (usually hardpack), it feels very unnatural to position myself on the inside of of the bike during a turn. What I usually end up doing is basically moving the bike underneath me, especially at 35-40mph+. I don't know poo poo about dual sporting. I run 12 PSI front and rear on my dirtbikes in a typical situation. I don't often encounter hardpack flat turns dirtbiking, but on dirt roads I usually am just loving around and sit forward and gas the rear end out around. Actual strategy to turn properly I have no idea.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2010 23:27
|
|
|
VTNewb posted:I don't know poo poo about dual sporting. It's entirely possible this feeling is just that, a feeling, due to any combination of the following: a) the bike is tall and heavy b) mine has raising links so it's extra tall and a 6 or 7 gallon tank so it's extra heavy c) I'm pretty sure my tires are no where near 12psi d) the bars are wide, so it may feel like the bike is leaning more than it actually is due to where my hands end up, and the bike is, in general, far from narrow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 00:22
|
|
|
With knobbies on it, my DRZ felt like poo poo in anything offroad until I dropped the PSI to 15F/R. I was running 25 before and the bike felt floaty and weird.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 00:57
|
|
|
frozenphil posted:I wasn't aware of rubber being able to absorb things, much less needing to be hot to do it. I guess the metal expands around the o-rings allowing the oil to seep past them? I read a few days back in a magazine that the reason for riding the bike to warm the chain is to assist the evaporation of the chain cleaner so that by the time you're putting lube on, all the cleaner is gone. So there's another theory for the pool.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 01:26
|
|
|
Seems like there are at least 500 different methods for cleaning chains. My theory is that it really doesn't matter which you use just as long as you do something. I've been going with the spray on Belray poo poo since I changed my chain (still on perfectly fine looking original sprockets at 27K) with the clean with grunge brush and WD40 when it looks lovely. I've got over 10K on it now and have never had to adjust it though I think I might this weekend as it's at the far end of the slack spec.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 01:39
|
|
|
I've been using the grunge brush (about 12$) and a big can of motul chain cleaner spray (about 10-12$) and some PJ1 blue label spray on lube for o-ring chains on both my bikes, the brush is amazingly effective and the chain cleaner works a lot better than I expected, the dirt and crap almost falls right off the chain as i'm brushing it. The lube is really easy to use and pretty clean. I'm squeezing the last life out of my F2's chain which may possibly be the original, it's at about 18,400 right now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 01:54
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I've had 30k+ on chains, and I always lube them cold (keep selling bikes before the chains wear out Doh. I've been taking my bike out every time...nope the chain isn't hot yet gotta ride it some more......ok now I can clean it. That crap is a pain. I use gas and a tooth brush/rag to clean mine, then lube it up with Belray. I was gonna replace it, but the PO said it only had 500 miles on it when I got it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 03:04
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Some kind of bee repellent. My uncle wrecked his Harley when a bee got in his helmet. Luckily he had just passed an ambulance, but he still spent a few months with a full upper body cast and had to have my aunt wipe his rear end. Of course, he hopped right back on as soon as the cast was off.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 03:12
|
|
|
I had a broken wrist from an accident, couldn't stand waiting 6 weeks to ride again, and rode around with a broken wrist in a bright green cast. True story.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 03:14
|
|
|
Fantastipotamus posted:Can we talk dualsport form? When I'm riding my KLR on dirt roads (usually hardpack), it feels very unnatural to position myself on the inside of of the bike during a turn. What I usually end up doing is basically moving the bike underneath me, especially at 35-40mph+. well you should be weighting the outside pegs for one thing, which from your description is what you are already doing. Either way don't be afraid to move around the bike. I would highly recommend this DVD series for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYou96EM3uc http://www.dualsportriding.com/ It wouldn't hurt to drop the tire pressure down to around what the manual recommends for when you leave asphalt, depending on what tires you are running. If they are anything like the stock ones, I'd drop it to around 21psi front and rear. Anything lower than that is going to be pointless on a KLR.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 03:15
|
|
|
I was stung twice last year while riding. Both of those bees somehow made it in between my helmet and jacket collar (the only part of me not covered by gear) and stung me right on the neck. This sucks as, aside from it hurting like hell, I'm allergic to the drat things so my neck gets all puffy and I have a headache for a few days after. I've also had a spider hang down about 5mm from my eyeball on it's dumb little web since I must have disturbed his hiding spot by sticking my head in my helmet. Only problem was I was on the freeway in rush hour traffic before he decided to make his appearance. I've come to terms with the fact that it probably won't be speed or another driver that kills me on the bike. Most likely it will be an insect that will happily wander out of the wreckage looking for it's next victim.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 04:55
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I'd get some quality earbuds, etymotics or whatever you like? Also, beg/borrow/ That tankbag is awesome mostly for that reason. [Edit] woot 
sklnd fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Apr 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 06:26
|
|
|
After a nice ride I was walking in the apartment, when a gecko jumped onto my face screen and I jumped. That's all I've got.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 06:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:03 |
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:Everyone tells me to ride before to warm up the chain, so that the chain is hot and can absorb the oil better. I lube it after warming up the chain myself. I use the spray on poo poo and it seems to flow better into the crevices of the chain. If the chain's cold, than it just globs on and doesn't go anywhere. It's a PITA on the Vulcan 500 because I have exhaust on both sides of the bike, so I clean it when it's cold to avoid getting burned, then ride around, then lube it when it's warm. Takes way too long.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2010 07:04
|
|