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Is a Buell xb9sx a good starter bike? My brother is kind of impulsive and traded for one without having ever really ridden before. Is he going to die?
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May 6, 2010 21:56
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:43 |
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I wouldn't call it a good starter bike, it's making around 80rwhp, but it's better than your typical 6.
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May 6, 2010 22:19
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Watommi posted:Is a Buell xb9sx a good starter bike? quote:Peak Torque per SAE J607, North America 70 ft-lb (95 Nm)  Cycle World says that it's not as twitchy as similar Japanese or Italian bikes, but that's still too much for a newb. Is he taking the MSF? Has he ridden anything before (like dirt)? Is he a gigantic squid? Is he prone to stupid impulsiveness (already answered). I'm sure it's not an instant death sentence, but anything you can do to talk some sense into him before he "has to lay it down" and ends up in the hospital will improve his chances.
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May 6, 2010 22:22
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http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/1728020044.html * Ask for pics of the front end. Looks scary. * Interested as a bike for Jendywo and I to tear down (she wants to learn motorcycle mechanics), and we have two decentish daily riders. Perhaps a bike to flip, too, for that price. Thoughts?
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May 6, 2010 23:34
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The thing about cheap bikes is you have to compensate for all of the consumables. Tires, a chain/sprockets, oil, filter, brake pads/fluid, and some other odds and ends and you can easily dump 400+$ into a 500$ bike just to get it rideable. When it comes to cheap bikes, those are the things that I'm looking at. But as a fixer, it'd be fine. You might be able to flip it for a hundred profit after 200 hours of working on it.  I'd go look at it and lowball him.
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May 7, 2010 00:04
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quote:Peak Torque per SAE J607, North America 70 ft-lb (95 Nm) Nah it's cool cause the belt breaks when it hits 60hp.
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May 7, 2010 02:45
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Jabs posted:http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/1728020044.html No title means no sale to me, unless it's a track bike.
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May 7, 2010 05:01
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Z3n posted:The only thing about those bikes is that they need the valves adjusted pretty regularly (every 4k) or they'll burn valves. If it hasn't been done, I'd adjust the price accordingly. I've out like 3.5k miles on mine since i've owned it, I should probably have mine checked? It has been idling funny |:^|a, i'm kind of scared to do it myself, wonder how much it'd run to have it done for me.
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May 7, 2010 07:13
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Weinertron posted:Other big question: Where are gas prices where you live? When gas is under $2.50/gal, the money you save on gas is really pretty small compared to a car. As gas starts costing more, motorcycles start being cheaper to own comparatively. Where I am, it's £1.20 a liter (3.78l / US gallon), so that's about £4.54, or what, US$7 a gallon? My 20 mile town and backroad commute on the bike today was 24 minutes or so. In the car at the same time of day, even thrashing the gently caress out of it in the twisty bits (and getting 25 mpg for my trouble), it's more like 40 minutes. Plus the car doesn't wheelie over every crest... 
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May 7, 2010 08:51
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frozenphil posted:No title means no sale to me, unless it's a track bike. Absolutely agree. At best it'll be a bitch and a half to get it retitled. At worst, it's stolen. Walk.
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May 7, 2010 14:45
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frozenphil posted:No title means no sale to me, unless it's a track bike. Goddamn, how did I miss that.  I'd say no title is a dealbreaker for me, excepting certain conditions...ie, the owner has just lost the pink slip and will do the transfer at the DMV. In CA, you can file a lost title and a transfer at the same time. So you go down to the DMV with the seller, fill out some paperwork, and you become the new registered owner. Obviously, they'll double check that he is the real registered owner, so it's all legit. infraboy posted:I've out like 3.5k miles on mine since i've owned it, I should probably have mine checked? It has been idling funny |:^|a, i'm kind of scared to do it myself, wonder how much it'd run to have it done for me. It's really easy to do. Pop off the valve cover/timing cover, rotate engine to TDC, check clearances, and adjust to spec. Do you have a service manual? Read through the procedure and see what you think.
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May 7, 2010 16:21
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Z3n posted:Goddamn, how did I miss that. I bought a bike (in Michigan) that they guy had lost the title for and was applying for a replacement. I called the Secretary of State (DMV for MI), explained that I wanted to buy the bike and asked them if what they had on record was the same as what he was claiming. They wouldn't tell me what was on record, but when I gave them the info they said "Sounds about right." He found his the next day. 
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May 7, 2010 17:17
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Z3n posted:Goddamn, how did I miss that. On the flip side, since a duplicate title is under $10, I don't know why any seller wouldn't take the time to go get one...unless...they never registered it, and they might be on the hook for the use tax? I dunno how that works.
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May 7, 2010 17:46
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If I were to go look at this bike, what kind of tests ( ) could I perform to see whether or not it's a basket case? All I could think of was to check the battery and see if the engine will turn over by hand.craigslist posting posted:Have invested over $1000 into this bike since 08. Has had the gas tank recoated, carbs cleaned. I am no mechanic so Im not sure exactly what the problem is, but it will not turn over. Just replaced the battery about a year ago so I dont think thats it, maybe bad solonoid. Anybody with mechanical know-how, this is the bike for you, last time I cranked it the motor ran great. Also rough cosmetics, craked fairings and mirrors. make me an offer. It's a ninja 500, same generation as mine. I was just going to take all of the pretty parts off of it and then flip it for super cheap.
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May 7, 2010 19:04
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I'd offer 500$ and go from there. Could be a bad solenoid as he mentions, you can get around that by jumping the starter solenoid terminals with a rubber handled screwdriver. Check the battery with a multimeter and see if it's putting out at least 12.6v, if it's not it needs to be charged. I'd bring jumper cables and see if I could get it to turn over.
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May 7, 2010 19:14
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He's only asking $400 
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May 7, 2010 19:16
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AncientTV posted:He's only asking $400 Winner, offer 300$. 
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May 7, 2010 19:16
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I'm afraid I'm gonna get it started and he's gonna go OH WOOPS I MEANT $1400. Then I'll punch him in the nuts.
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May 7, 2010 19:18
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AncientTV posted:I'm afraid I'm gonna get it started and he's gonna go OH WOOPS I MEANT $1400. If it starts, commence mad cackling, whoops, and hollas. If not, commence parting out.
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May 7, 2010 19:22
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If you're not even going to try and get it to start, offer 200$!!!
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May 7, 2010 19:23
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Ask him to pay you for taking it off his hands!!!!
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May 7, 2010 19:28
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > Lowball the poo poo out of him
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May 7, 2010 19:31
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I haven't bought poo poo off Craigslist much, but I've noticed most of the postings say something like "price is firm, please don't try to lowball me." Are people really serious when they say something like that, or is that code for "I'm hoping some rube is now more likely to take it at asking, but I'll still give it to you for a little less if you insist."
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May 7, 2010 19:34
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AncientTV posted:The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > Lowball the poo poo out of him This generally seems to be the best option when buying things. SlightlyMadman posted:I haven't bought poo poo off Craigslist much, but I've noticed most of the postings say something like "price is firm, please don't try to lowball me." Are people really serious when they say something like that, or is that code for "I'm hoping some rube is now more likely to take it at asking, but I'll still give it to you for a little less if you insist." Depends from seller to seller. Most will waver if you've got cash in hand, especially if they've been dealing with retards for the last 2 months.
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May 7, 2010 19:41
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Z3n posted:Depends from seller to seller. Most will waver if you've got cash in hand, especially if they've been dealing with retards for the last 2 months. I find most people are willing to lower the price if you can string two sentences together in a comprehensible way, even before you meet to check things out. It seriously gets depressing to sell something on CL between the sheer loving idiots and the vast number of flakes. If you have a normal conversation and show up on time you're pretty well set for lowballing.
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May 7, 2010 20:07
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Kind of on topic, but not really. Sold my car on craigslist last month, said I was FIRM FIRM FIRM on price, ended up letting it go for $500 less than I wanted because I was tired of dealing with the lowballing/flaky scum of the internet.
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May 7, 2010 23:17
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I'm actually new to motorcycles. Looking to buy a sport bike but don't have the money to "Start" at 250 and slowly upgrade as I get better, but like most I also don't want some super fast death machine. So I was looking at Ninja 500s, and Ninja 650s, but thats only because thats really the only bikes I know anything about. I was hoping to get some extra suggestions/info on other bikes. I plan on riding very frequently, and when I can, take long distance trips (By that I mean from dallas to hot springs Arkansas, at best, really.) I want something that will last me for a good lot of miles, and is very dependable. I don't necessarily have the cash to spend on a touring bike, in fact, I'm still saving for my first SPORT bike, which is alright as I'll have the money to buy one soon enough, but I need more suggestions on what bikes I could look at, as a starter bike, but not SUPER low on power, and able to go a good distance, sort of frequently. thanks in advance for any help
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May 8, 2010 16:06
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Typik posted:I'm actually new to motorcycles. Looking to buy a sport bike but don't have the money to "Start" at 250 and slowly upgrade as I get better, but like most I also don't want some super fast death machine. Of course you have the money to start on a smaller bike and upgrade, silly. Here's how it works. Take MSF class, get license and appropriate gear (helmet, jacket, gloves, boots, and pants). Buy Ninja 250 or some other less-powerful bike on Craigslist for around $1500. After a year of riding, flip the 250 for....$1500 and buy a better bike. IT'S MAGIC Also, I wouldn't classify Ninja 500s or Ninja 650Rs as "sportbikes," since the seating position is so upright and they're not exactly made for racing. That said, Ninja 500s or Ninja 650Rs make acceptable beginner bikes if you're mature enough to handle the power. Other good ones to look at (if you're on a budget) are older UJMs from the '80s. Another bike that's comparable to the Ninja 650R (and a forum favorite) is the SV650, which is also a twin cylinder boasting around 60 something horsepower, right at the upper limit for a noob. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 16:09
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Have you budgeted for training and gear, as well? At any rate, there's the Ninja 500 and 650. The 500 is good for beginners, the 650 on the high end. Suzuki has the GS500, SV650 and if you can find one used, the Gladius (which is the replacement for the naked SV650). The Gladius and SV are similar to the Ninja 650 in terms of power and such. The GS500 is a bit weaker.
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May 8, 2010 16:10
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Endless Mike posted:Have you budgeted for training and gear, as well? From what you've suggested, are any of these bikes really more preferable to the others? Any BIG key differences? I have budgeted for training, and gear as well. If you want, I can post my budgeting plan,
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May 8, 2010 16:14
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For a beginner, no, there's no big difference between the bikes. They will all feel fast to you, they will all do pretty much anything you need them to, and they will all be quite a bit faster than you are as a rider for a couple years at least.
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May 8, 2010 16:18
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:For a beginner, no, there's no big difference between the bikes. They will all feel fast to you, they will all do pretty much anything you need them to, and they will all be quite a bit faster than you are as a rider for a couple years at least. I checked out the SV650 like you suggested. Looks nice. I'm looking at one right now for 2500$ with 20,600 miles on it. Too much, you think? Or no? Any reason other than the power this is the forum favorite? (I'm sorry about all the questions, I am completely new to motorcycles)
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May 8, 2010 16:20
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For a beginner, I would say one of the 500s over the 650s. They're all going to seem crazy fast to you (and, really, they are when you consider an SV650's straight line performance is nearly identical to a Porsche 911 Turbo), and they'll all be perfectly reliable. The 500s will be a bit cheaper, too. What year SV650? That would be good for a second gen (2003+), but probably a little too much for a first gen (1999-2002).
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May 8, 2010 16:21
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Depending on the year, you should be able to talk the seller down to $2,000 or maybe $1,800 if it needs some stuff. When buying a bike, try to have a friend that knows his poo poo or at least read this: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html Common stuff that needs replacing on used bikes: -Tires -Brake fluid -Oil and oil filter -Chain and sprockets -Brake pads -Battery If those items check out, you can confidently pay $2,000 or so for the bike and know you got a reliable machine. If some of those things need replacing, reduce asking price accordingly.
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May 8, 2010 16:25
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Endless Mike posted:For a beginner, I would say one of the 500s over the 650s. They're all going to seem crazy fast to you (and, really, they are when you consider an SV650's straight line performance is nearly identical to a Porsche 911 Turbo), and they'll all be perfectly reliable. The 500s will be a bit cheaper, too. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/1693999061.html What do you think?
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May 8, 2010 16:25
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Well, it's been down and it has gay underbody LEDs but if there's no other crash damage and the consumables listed above look good, I'd say somewhere in the range of 2,500 is a good price. And by the way, that's the SV650 "S" version which has lower bars and more rearset pegs for a sporty riding position. The standard SV650 is a bit more upright and with no fairing, but there's no big difference between the two, it's up to preference.
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May 8, 2010 16:26
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Well, it's been down and it has gay underbody LEDs but if there's no other crash damage and the consumables listed above look good, I'd say somewhere in the range of 2,500 is a good price. And by the way, that's the SV650 "S" version which has lower bars and more rearset pegs for a sporty riding position. The standard SV650 is a bit more upright and with no fairing, but there's no big difference between the two, it's up to preference. I'll have to sit on both models and see which one really feels comfortable to me then. I plan on riding alot so I do want some comfort. Also yeah. I checked out that buying guide you posted quite a while back. Seems useful, are there any other suggestions you'd give when checking out the bike? Other things not listed in the guide to look for? Also, the ad says there are a "Few cracks in the tail section" Something I should be worried about, you think?
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May 8, 2010 16:30
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It is probably not a big deal. Any drop, even a stationary one in a driveway, could result in cracking plastic fairings. He doesn't say how the drop occurred so it was probably while moving (be cynical when it comes to Craigslist  ) but if there's nothing else bent such as pedals, handlebars, and if you look down the length of the bike and everything appears straight, you're good to go. You can even ask him to ride it and have him take his hands off the bars to see if it rides straight.For the chain, just push up on the middle of the bottom length of it - it should move about an inch upwards. Make sure there's not any rust on it. Tires, observe for any cracks or if it looks extremely squared off or worn down. Treads should be a decent depth. Squeeze the brake lever - it should firmly resist after a bit of travel. If it goes all the way to the handlebar it needs new fluid. Twist the throttle and ensure that is travels smoothly and firmly snaps back to neutral. Sit on the bike and push down on the front and sit heavily on the rear to see how the shocks react. I think that's everything, phew. Oh, insist that the bike be cold when you look at it so you can see it start cold. A lot of problems go away once a bike is warm.
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May 8, 2010 16:41
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It's a piece of cosmetic plastic, but is evidence of a crash. It's probably better since you won't feel as bad when you crash it (you will).
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May 8, 2010 16:41
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Typik posted:I'll have to sit on both models and see which one really feels comfortable to me then. I plan on riding alot so I do want some comfort. Also yeah. I checked out that buying guide you posted quite a while back. Seems useful, are there any other suggestions you'd give when checking out the bike? Other things not listed in the guide to look for? Holy crap that is a great deal on a 2nd gen SV650, then again i'm in CA and it's rare to see one of those for less than 3500. The tail thing is likely cosmetic and if you can live with it, it's no big deal. Unless you're a big idiot with no self control an SV650 should be a fine beginner bike. Also it's a fuel injected model, so starting cold or warm should be a snap.
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May 8, 2010 16:41
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