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I had an '82 Nighthawk 450 with no spark and it ended up being the pickup coils that tell the CDI box what to do. I sold it before fixing it but the guy who bought it told me what it needed. Apparently Honda had a good streak of that going on according to my Goldwing friends. I guess they had problems with them on the early '80s bikes as well.
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May 6, 2010 06:48
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Bugdrvr posted:I had an '82 Nighthawk 450 with no spark and it ended up being the pickup coils that tell the CDI box what to do. I sold it before fixing it but the guy who bought it told me what it needed. Apparently Honda had a good streak of that going on according to my Goldwing friends. I guess they had problems with them on the early '80s bikes as well. yeah, That is essentially the same bike. Hmmm.... Thanks. I will check that out. Is that the same as the pulse regulator?
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May 6, 2010 12:52
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Regarding my oil burning questions above, I checked it out today. The vent housing on the cylinder head cover looks fine, so does the hose apart from the fact that I hadn't reattached it to the airbox after doing the valves.  It had definitely spat some oil out, but not ridiculous amounts.Also did a comp test and a plug inspection. The results are as follows.     (note that the absolute values may by a tad off since I was pressing a rubber thingy down on the plug hole. Didn't get any big PFFFT sounds on the good tests, but some may have leaked) What say the hive mind? ratemyplugs.com To me, 1, 3 and 4 looks decent enough with 1 being the best. 2 looks like ash deposits from burning oil.  Since the compression numbers are ok, worst case workwise is the oil ring or the valve guides. It should also be noted that this is the cylinder that pulls vacuum for the petcock, so if there's an airleak there it might be a lean plug. Thoughts? Ideas? Musings?
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May 6, 2010 13:04
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Weinertron posted:If I had a question is was basically "will duct tape, superglue, and prayer hold a turn signal on?" I dropped my KZ454 the day before my riding exam and shattered the right rear turn signal. I gathered all the pieces and spent a couple of hours gluing and taping everything back into place. There was a rather large shard that was missing but the inspector/examiner didn't notice and I passed the riding exam! I only needed the turn signal to stay together for a week after the test while I waited for a replacement from bike bandit. Personally I would order a replacement ASAP, but keep riding with your ghetto fix.
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May 6, 2010 13:17
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Z3n posted:You need to clean the hell out of everything first and figure out where that drip is coming from.  Alright, this seems to be where the leak is coming from. The right two pipes are covered in oil at the connection to the engine, while the right one is dry. Any ideas on how to fix that? Are there rubber gaskets inside there that could be rotted out?
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May 6, 2010 22:12
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BigMcLargeHuge posted:
There's no oil there. It's probably dripping down from the valve cover gasket. Cleaning everything up and then sprinkling baby powder over the engine can help you figure out where drips are coming from.
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May 6, 2010 22:16
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The leak could also be near the spark plugs. There's probably a drain hole in the spark plug area which exits near the headers.
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May 6, 2010 23:20
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Is there any pressing reason why I shouldn't use a cheapo Harbor Freight swingarm stand? Unlike the Ninja 250s I was looking at, the SV650 I ended up getting doesn't have a centerstand at all. This means that I need some way to elevate the back wheel to make maintenance easy. From some quick googling, it looks like the Pitbull stands are the premium option, but if I can cheap out I would want to get one for ~$50 or so. Would a cheapo swingarm stand be dangerous for an SV650? Even better, is there any way that I could PUT a centerstand on an SV650 so that if I'm doing longer trips I could lube the chain every 400 or 500 miles like I'm supposed to? Best option: http://www.motorcycleradar.com/quick_stand.htm but I'm a little terrified about this thing's stability. I'm going to read up on this quick stand thing, but it really looks quite slick. I just want something that'll let me lube the chain easily and regularly. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 08:39 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 7, 2010 08:32
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Someone around here had their HF stand fail and drop his SV on him. That said, I have one and haven't had any trouble.
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May 7, 2010 13:24
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Speaking of, in the latest Cycle World there's a coupon for the Harbor Freight motorcycle lift - like 50% off. I'll probably get one. (Crayvex - this means if we need to do any work to your bike we should be good.)
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May 7, 2010 14:53
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Weinertron posted:Is there any pressing reason why I shouldn't use a cheapo Harbor Freight swingarm stand? Unlike the Ninja 250s I was looking at, the SV650 I ended up getting doesn't have a centerstand at all. This means that I need some way to elevate the back wheel to make maintenance easy. I was in a similar place not too long ago and I'm glad I made the choice I did. I ended up going with the PitBull stands and they are *seriously* nice. They're built like a brick shithouse and are amazingly stable. I'm not concerned about the bike coming off the stands in the least. I had a buddy who go the harbor freight stands not too long ago and only used them twice before a wheel on the rear stand broke. Some of HF's stuff is decent -- the lifts are pretty nice and I got a pair of their roll in wheel chocks to mount on my trailer that are pretty sturdy (other than the super loving lovely cotter pins they send with the kit). The stands are a different story though.
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May 7, 2010 15:12
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Doctor Zero posted:Speaking of, in the latest Cycle World there's a coupon for the Harbor Freight motorcycle lift - like 50% off. I'll probably get one. If its the yellow/black one with a bottle jack, its pretty decent. On mine the safety bar is a little bent, though. Kind of disconcerting. It looks like it could slip out of the side of the stop area on one side.
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May 7, 2010 15:30
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sirbeefalot posted:If its the yellow/black one with a bottle jack, its pretty decent. Yep, that's the one. Glad to hear it. I'm not going to be rebuilding a bike on it or anything. At least, not right now.  It's kind of annoying because I don't need it that often, but when I need it, I really need it. 50% off is pretty much the right price for how much I'll use it.
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May 7, 2010 15:33
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Weinertron posted:Is there any pressing reason why I shouldn't use a cheapo Harbor Freight swingarm stand? Unlike the Ninja 250s I was looking at, the SV650 I ended up getting doesn't have a centerstand at all. This means that I need some way to elevate the back wheel to make maintenance easy. Check craigslist for people selling stands. That's where I buy mine.
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May 7, 2010 16:12
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Is there anything terribly wrong with the chain adjusters being a couple millimeters different side to side? It seems no matter how close I get them they move a tad when I tighten down the axle nut. The OCD perfectionist side of my brain is weeping in the corner right now, but the rest of my brain said, "gently caress it, how much can 2mm hurt".
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May 7, 2010 21:37
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Usually they're out about that much from the factory anyways.
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May 7, 2010 21:39
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Z3n posted:Usually they're out about that much from the factory anyways. The rational part of my brain knows this, but the perfectionist part is just flipping out about it.
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May 7, 2010 21:46
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Take it to your local GMD computrack place and get them to tell you exactly how out they are, then adjust it 2mm past that and tighten that bitch down.
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May 7, 2010 21:48
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I'm trying to devise a system using a laser level and some brackets right now. Should be more accurate than the factory hash marks and bracket that moves when you tighten the axle nut.
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May 7, 2010 21:51
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Don't ever buy a 2005 GSX-R 1000 (I think)...Gerry from GP Frame and Wheel out here found out after frame checking a bunch of them that the hash marks are off by one from the factory.
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May 7, 2010 21:55
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Ok, dumb question time since I don't know anyone local who rides that I can ask, since I really prefer to ride alone. What's the best position for one's feet on a cruiser? Under or over the pedals? My last 3 bikes were standards with mid-controls, and I'd ride on the balls of my feet. I just got my first cruiser. If I adjust the brake way up so my foot sits under it, I'm fine, but it feels like a bad idea to have to lift my whole leg to get on the brake. If I adjust it way down, the foot is still too low of an angle. It rests on the pedal, and probably pushes it a little. I don't want to worry about riding the brake all the time. Same problem with the shift pedal, but it's a little smaller, so less annoying. I dunno if forward controls are the right answer cause it's otherwise comfortable, or if I should just find someone with the tools to bend the pedals to my liking, or what.
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May 7, 2010 23:12
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chryst posted:
I'd feel really uncomfortable with my foot under the pedal, for fear of getting it jammed between something. Perhaps not so likely but anyway. I don't really know if it exists, but I'm sure there's an aftermarket with differently shaped pedals. Perhaps pricey, but certainly something to check out.
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May 7, 2010 23:29
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Weinertron posted:Even better, is there any way that I could PUT a centerstand on an SV650 so that if I'm doing longer trips I could lube the chain every 400 or 500 miles like I'm supposed to? They absolutely exist, and for both gen's (i forget which you go): http://tcmcstuff.tripod.com/SV650Centerstand.htm I love having a center stand, I think it'd be weird to have to live without one.
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May 7, 2010 23:30
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frozenphil posted:I'm trying to devise a system using a laser level and some brackets right now. Should be more accurate than the factory hash marks and bracket that moves when you tighten the axle nut.
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May 7, 2010 23:36
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I feel a slight nerd boner coming on by the idea of a laser level, but how exactly would you set it up?
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May 8, 2010 00:12
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In my experience the factory hash marks are not so accurate. I've always used a tailors measuring tape from a point that's the same on both sides (like the swing arm pivot or shock mounts) to the middle of the axle. I usually do this once when I get a bike or reinstall a wheel then I just tighten each bolts the same amount, counting the flats of the adjusting bolts. This way you only have to worry about it once as long as you keep count of how much you turn each bolt.
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May 8, 2010 01:28
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So far this looks to be the easiest method. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/
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May 8, 2010 05:20
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How do I adjust the rear shock preload on my 79 GS750L? Do I need a fancy tool to compress the spring?
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May 8, 2010 19:08
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orthod0ks posted:How do I adjust the rear shock preload on my 79 GS750L? Do I need a fancy tool to compress the spring? There should be a collar under the spring that you can turn to adjust it. There is a fancy tool for that, or you can just grab it with some channel locks and turn it.
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May 8, 2010 19:35
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Phat_Albert posted:There should be a collar under the spring that you can turn to adjust it. There is a fancy tool for that, or you can just grab it with some channel locks and turn it. Great, that worked. Did not expect it to be so simple. I'll see if my fat rear end stops bottoming out on rough roads now.
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May 9, 2010 01:11
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frozenphil posted:So far this looks to be the easiest method.
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May 9, 2010 08:50
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I tried searching the forums, but failed to find relevant information. Last summer I picked up a used '98 YZF-R1 with 10k miles and in great condition. Several months in, I notice some buzzing in front-right side at ~4krpms, thought little to nothing of it, but mentioned it to the shop the next time I was in. A few months ago, I noticed some cracking in the plastic by the mirror mount. It appears to be getting larger. I consulted the shop, they said they would need to keep the bike for a week or two and send the part off to one of their specialists at the cost of ~$200. To minimize down-time, they suggested doing it during the rainy season (end of May through mid-July). The bike sits outside, covered, between my apartment and my neighbor's house (~8ft gap). Even when it is covered it still gets dirty. Maybe the cover is no longer waterproof, and being in that corridor the wind tends to inflate and circulate inside the cover. So maybe it isn't the most ideal condition to store a bike in. The plastics have seen better days. What would CA do: 1) Let the shop fix it 2) Attempt to fix it alone (might be difficult to find supplies) 3) Convert it to naked/street fighter 4) Option 3 in addition to 1 or 2 Cost is also a factor. Will it continue to get worse by riding as-is. Also, I will not be able to ride for 3 weeks at the end of July. So if any repair is done, considering all this info, when should it be done?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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May 10, 2010 00:02
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Are there any real performance gains provided with aftermarket exhausts? My CBR F2 currently has a D&D pipe installed by the previous owner. It's LOUD AS gently caress and provides basically no backpressure I'm guessing. My bike is rejetted for it with a DynoJet kit and a K&N filter. Is this thing actually helping my bike breathe better at high RPM's or is it really not affecting much? I am getting new headers off eBay that are coming with the stock exhaust and am tempted to put the whole stock set-up on my F2 and nix the D&D pipe, but I'd hate to be giving up horsepower if I did so. Any ideas? On a sidenote, I've found that having a loud exhaust is fun about 10% of the time. The other 90% it's annoying, slightly embarrassing (if I'm disturbing a quiet neighborhood early in the morning, for example) and just obnoxious. But for that 10% of the time, when I'm wringing it out and listening to the engine roar, it's pretty fun. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 04:25 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 04:20
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Palicgofueniczekt posted:Last summer I picked up a used '98 YZF-R1 with 10k miles and in great condition. Several months in, I notice some buzzing in front-right side at ~4krpms, thought little to nothing of it, but mentioned it to the shop the next time I was in. A few months ago, I noticed some cracking in the plastic by the mirror mount. It appears to be getting larger. If I'm seeing the crack correctly, there's 2 cracks right off the mirror mount, correct? I'd just pick up some plastex or other plastic weld and redo it myself. Depending on how bad it is, you should just be able to get away with removing the mirror, filing/cutting a small channel in the back, and plasticwelding it all back together. I bet that the 200$ is 1-2 hours of their labor and 50$ to the specialist shop to fix it. If you're really paranoid about getting it done right, but want to save some cash, pull it yourself and send it off to the specialist. I'd probably just ride with it as is. I'd put some tape over it to help reinforce it and prevent it from flexing and cracking more until I fixed it. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Are there any real performance gains provided with aftermarket exhausts? My CBR F2 currently has a D&D pipe installed by the previous owner. It's LOUD AS gently caress and provides basically no backpressure I'm guessing. My bike is rejetted for it with a DynoJet kit and a K&N filter. Is this thing actually helping my bike breathe better at high RPM's or is it really not affecting much? You probably won't give up much by swapping back to the stock exhaust. Is it a complete system?
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May 10, 2010 04:29
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Z3n posted:If I'm seeing the crack correctly, there's 2 cracks right off the mirror mount, correct? There are those two, and I think it has pretty much freed that piece. However, there are other cracks spreading out from the grommet (the white lines in the 3rd and 2nd pic). Would I need to break apart all of the pieces and then glue them together, or is a topical treatment possible? Also, are there similar but completely wrong products to use? Language is a bit of an issue. Things needed would only be the bonding agent and various sandpaper?
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May 10, 2010 06:04
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While giving the rims on my bike the first clean of their lives using methylated spirits in preparation to put some rim tape on the bike, I discovered that metho seems to be great for cleaning other stuff too - it took a shitload of built-up chain lube and dirt from the swingarm, baked on road grime from the cam covers which are subject to water flicking off the front wheel, you get the picture. A sponge and car washing detergent removed none of this stuff. My question is, is methylated spirits likely to damage anything on the bike? If not, I'm going to go apeshit on this thing and get it sparkly clean.
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May 10, 2010 06:04
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Don't know about that specifically, but WD-40 took off baked on asphalt without damaging my paint (as in, I rode down a street over freshly poured and still liquid asphalt that proceeded to bake onto every surface it could). Chain lube cooked on my muffler didn't stand a chance, either. I didn't spray the stuff onto any rubber gaskets or anything like that, but it seemed fine on paint and metal.
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May 10, 2010 06:49
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Are there any real performance gains provided with aftermarket exhausts? My CBR F2 currently has a D&D pipe installed by the previous owner. It's LOUD AS gently caress and provides basically no backpressure I'm guessing. My bike is rejetted for it with a DynoJet kit and a K&N filter. Is this thing actually helping my bike breathe better at high RPM's or is it really not affecting much? A previous owner put an Akropovic on my FZ1 and jetted it accordingly. The raw Ak was horribly loud, but going back to stock gave me a noticeable reduction in power and the bike ran rich. I made a DB killer from a short piece of muffler pipe-I should have taken pictures, but the general idea is that I took a piece of pipe that would fit inside the out pipe, made some cuts in the pipe in one end and folded the cuts into a sort of inverse cone. This made the AK usuable without affecting HP as much as the stock pipe.I also took off the end caps and repacked the muffler with loose fiberglass cloth (not insulation) and between the two changes I have a bike that will pull the front at will but won't make my teeth itch.
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May 10, 2010 07:31
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Here4DaGangBang posted:My question is, is methylated spirits likely to damage anything on the bike? If not, I'm going to go apeshit on this thing and get it sparkly clean. Yeah, anything painted. Use kero.
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May 10, 2010 07:40
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Yeah, anything painted. poo poo, like the wheels and swingarm. FFFFffff What will it do to the paint, exactly?
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May 10, 2010 07:52
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