|
KozmoNaut posted:$12.95/$13.95 is too expensive for earplugs? I always associate surefire with the tactilol arfcom crowd and that one dude who poses his family with guns and stuff. It seems fitting that they would offer earplugs with metal halos and poo poo to make it look like you're wearing an ear piece.
|
#
?
May 11, 2010 21:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 05:58 |
|
|
"how to make your own ear plugs" yielded quite a few google results, this will definitely gets some research done. Let's all come together and fill our cranial cavities with molten wax!
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2010 22:57
|
|
|
Where do I find a stock 4 into 4 exhaust for a 1980 Honda CB750F? So far ebay has been helpful to find like 3 exhaust systems that people want $90 to ship. If my local bike wrecker doesn't yield good results should I try to find a parts bike purely for the exhaust system? The aftermarket 4-1 exhaust is loud. Like, hear me 2 miles away in the country loud.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 09:26
|
|
|
Rontalvos posted:
Which one is that? The Marshall Deeptone isn't too bad and fairly cheap as well. An original set from a wrecker will be in poor condition, but probably fixable with an angle grinder, perhaps some welding and some hot paint. Original NOS parts will cost shitloads. You can add up here: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1980-honda-motorcycle-cb750f-super-sport/o/m1998 But most parts aren't available and the drawing shows a 4-2.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 13:43
|
|
|
Rontalvos posted:Where do I find a stock 4 into 4 exhaust for a 1980 Honda CB750F? So far ebay has been helpful to find like 3 exhaust systems that people want $90 to ship. If my local bike wrecker doesn't yield good results should I try to find a parts bike purely for the exhaust system? If I'm remembering correctly the stock F exhaust was a 4-2. The K model had the 4-4 exhausts, which were very prone to the bottom pipes rusting out and were heavy as gently caress. They also use different mounting brackets than the F. You can probably re-pack your aftermarket exhaust. That might bring it down to an acceptable level.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 14:58
|
|
|
needknees posted:You can probably re-pack your aftermarket exhaust. That might bring it down to an acceptable level. Another option along these lines is a DB Killer like this or this. OEM stuff tends to be stupid expensive one way or another.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 16:38
|
|
|
I bought this bike http://fresno.craigslist.org/mcy/1735740872.html yesterday but I won't have it home until thursday evening, so I can't provide model info yet, I just know I want that pipe gone. Glad to know it's a 4-2 though, after poking around on ebay those aren't quite as hard to find as a 4-4.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 17:05
|
|
|
Rontalvos posted:Where do I find a stock 4 into 4 exhaust for a 1980 Honda CB750F? So far ebay has been helpful to find like 3 exhaust systems that people want $90 to ship. If my local bike wrecker doesn't yield good results should I try to find a parts bike purely for the exhaust system? The F had a 4-2 exhaust if memory serves. Either way, they were prone to rotting out, and were really heavy, which is why people want $90 to ship them. I;d look for ways to quiet down your aftermarket pipe unless you really want the look of the stocker.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2010 18:20
|
|
|
I got an offer on this bike: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/1711701398.html The guy offered me $2300 (compared to me asking $2700) which seems pretty low. Do I have the bike priced fairly or is $2300 about the best I can do? I'm in no rush to sell, but I would like to be done with the whole affair.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 00:35
|
|
|
I'd counter at 2500$ on principal.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
I told him $2600 and he said all he could do is $2300. Maybe I could get him to 24 or 25 if I throw in some luggage and such.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 00:46
|
|
|
So my roommate crashed and we have no idea how to fix it. He rides a ninja 250 and crashed coming home from work. He just rode it to the ground, no rash or injuries despite only wearing jacket and helmet. He got freaked out for some reason in a turn and lowsided into some grass ditch or some poo poo. The only damage was to the shift lever. It's not bent as far as we can tell, but did rotate backwards 170 degrees. He had to ride home in fifth gear, it would probably shift down but the foot peg is in the way now. Are we going to have to pull the transmission apart to fix this poo poo, and is that even something you can do on a Saturday afternoon or what? I'm pretty sure he can't afford a mechanic.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 04:50
|
|
|
If you have pictures it would help, but it sounds like all you need to do is remove the shift rod from the engine (there's a bolt you'll need to remove completely at the end of the shift rod), rotate teh shifter back all the way around, and then reattach it. If you're lucky.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 05:28
|
|
|
Yeah pictures will come tomorrow when there's enough light to actually take them!
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 05:33
|
|
|
Unscrew the big allen bolt and twist the shifter back around, like z3n said. Same thing happened to me when I took my 250 for a joyride through a ditch last year. I just flipped the shift lever back around on the side of the road with an allen wrench from my tool kit and rode it home 200 miles. Cake.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 05:56
|
|
|
N'thing that it's probably just the shift lever pivot bolt. That poo poo vibrated out of my bike one day and I had to ride 2 miles of surface roads in 6th gear to get home. My poor clutch 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 05:59
|
|
|
What is the most reasonable literbike for the street? I know they're all insane power wise and really too much, but I really dig the Honda 954rr, I love its headlight design. Pretty reasonable price wise too. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/1738324104.html
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 06:02
|
|
|
infraboy posted:What is the most reasonable literbike for the street? I know they're all insane power wise and really too much, but I really dig the Honda 954rr, I love its headlight design. Pretty reasonable price wise too. This is sort of like asking "What's better for killing squirrels, a machine gun or a Barret 50cal?" They're all pretty streetable, they're also all just totally nuts. I have a serious soft spot for the 929/954 series, as they're awesome bikes, super cheap, monster stomp from the engine, and a great chassis. The 929/954 are actually closer in power to a GSX-R750 but with a lot more low end, which makes them very good on the street. Just very fast as well, I had to sell mine because I started getting tickets like it was my job on it, too drat easy to ride fast. Holds a soft spot in my heart: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TD0VSwb4GJ4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baE_kl9V0Sk Made it to 50k with one problem...it fried the R/R connector, but not the wiring. I soldered the R/R directly into the harness, worked fine. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:09 on May 13, 2010 |
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 06:06
|
|
|
Z3n posted:
Speaking of this what the hell was Honda doing for 10+ years making bikes with lovely rear end regulator/rectifiers?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 06:17
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Speaking of this what the hell was Honda doing for 10+ years making bikes with lovely rear end regulator/rectifiers? Sometimes it wasn't the fault of honda, in my case, it was just that the resistance had built up in the connector and eventually melted it. But yeah, it seems like Honda is still incapable of making a good CCT or R/R.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 06:22
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Speaking of this what the hell was Honda doing for 10+ years making bikes with lovely rear end regulator/rectifiers? bikes in general have lovely r/r's its only recently that decent MOSFET ones have become the norm.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 06:23
|
|
|
infraboy posted:What is the most reasonable literbike for the street? I know they're all insane power wise and really too much, but I really dig the Honda 954rr, I love its headlight design. Pretty reasonable price wise too. The best streetable litre bike? S1000RR When in doubt- BMW always makes the best bike for anything/everything. Man, somebody should pay me for whoring out the beemers.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 09:36
|
|
|
PadreScout posted:The best streetable litre bike? Except for when you want to go some place when your final drive shat itself? (Honda4lyfe)
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 09:51
|
|
|
blugu64 posted:Except for when you want to go some place when your final drive shat itself? Haha, yeah. BMW always makes the best things, except for when the final drives are failing, or the machines little "don't steal me" key transponder thing is being buggy and disabling your motorbike god knows where, or seals somewhere are failing and dumping all of your oil all over the ground/back tire... You know, there are a few hick-ups, but those are to be expected. edit: Come to think of it, don;t even get me loving started on the maintenance requirments. In the end it is all worth it though?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 09:55
|
|
|
I kid (mostly), I'd kill for an R100/GS
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 10:53
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Speaking of this what the hell was Honda doing for 10+ years making bikes with lovely rear end regulator/rectifiers? On the old CX500 et al, it was the placement, not the part. They got too much engine heat and burned up. To be fair, this didn't happen for years, so it probably took the engineers a good while to realize their mistake.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 16:15
|
|
|
PadreScout posted:The best streetable litre bike? I don't know if I can agree with that... the ABS and traction control are very good I'll give it that. But, it's pretty drat high strung for a literbike. I noticed a definite lack of torque in moderately sane revs compared to my CBR1000. Now don't get me wrong it's a loving SCREAMER but you do have to rev it a fair amount to get any serious power. It's like a 600 on 'roids -- similar feel and power curve... just a *lot* more power. Best streetable literbike? 08+ CBR1000. No question 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 16:34
|
|
|
needknees posted:Best streetable literbike? 08+ CBR1000. No question I'd say it's a near run between the newer CBR and the GSX-R1k. The R1 lacks the stonky midrange you want from a literbike for street use. I wasn't a fan of the older CBRs, although they had a good spread of power. The Kawasaki...well, it's a kawasaki, it just wants you to go fast and headshake all the time.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 16:39
|
|
|
Trying to get a reliable estimate on a 2005 suzuki boulevard s83, garage kept ~8k miles. 4500$ is kbb, any insight? Chicago location
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 16:50
|
|
|
Hey I'm changing out the clutch cable on my 2003 Sv650 with a new one. I thought I read somewhere that the clutch cables are teflon lined and don't need to be lubed? Is this right? If the cable does need to be lubed what you all recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 17:02
|
|
|
Coredump posted:Hey I'm changing out the clutch cable on my 2003 Sv650 with a new one. I thought I read somewhere that the clutch cables are teflon lined and don't need to be lubed? Is this right? If the cable does need to be lubed what you all recommend? Couldnt tell you if the SV has teflon lined cables, but if you do need to lube them, use this: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G DO NOT use WD40, which is what everyone is tempted to use.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 18:00
|
|
|
How much slack do you typically leave on your drive chain? I tightened my chain today, which is the most maintenance I've done on a motorcycle. Needless to say, it was a lesson in frustration since I had no one to help and the KLR doesn't have a centerstand. I don't have a measuring tape, but when fully loaded it has just a tiny bit of slack if push or pulled on.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 22:53
|
|
|
Z3n posted:But yeah, it seems like Honda is still incapable of making a good CCT or R/R. Hey now, plenty of people get a Honda R/R for INCREASED reliability when their Suzuki GS stops making juice. Honda can't be THAT bad.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 23:11
|
|
|
Hughmoris posted:How much slack do you typically leave on your drive chain? I tightened my chain today, which is the most maintenance I've done on a motorcycle. Needless to say, it was a lesson in frustration since I had no one to help and the KLR doesn't have a centerstand. I don't have a measuring tape, but when fully loaded it has just a tiny bit of slack if push or pulled on. It's going to vary a bit from bike to bike but you really need a fair amount of slack to let the rear suspension actually work. Too tight and you're drastically limiting its effectiveness. You're also going to accelerate sprocket and chain wear. A good benchmark to shoot for is roughly 1.25-1.5" of vertical defection in the middle of the chain.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 23:20
|
|
|
Hughmoris posted:How much slack do you typically leave on your drive chain? I tightened my chain today, which is the most maintenance I've done on a motorcycle. Needless to say, it was a lesson in frustration since I had no one to help and the KLR doesn't have a centerstand. I don't have a measuring tape, but when fully loaded it has just a tiny bit of slack if push or pulled on. http://obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/beginner/chain-slack.jpg Measurement A is your slack (bottom run of chain, mid-way between sprockets. Push up as far as you can, and likewise with down when measuring). Someone else with a KLR can chime in, but there's a range of slack that your specific bike should have. Also, measure the chain several times in different spots. If it varies a lot, you need a new chain.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 23:23
|
|
|
needknees posted:It's going to vary a bit from bike to bike but you really need a fair amount of slack to let the rear suspension actually work. Too tight and you're drastically limiting its effectiveness. You're also going to accelerate sprocket and chain wear. A good benchmark to shoot for is roughly 1.25-1.5" of vertical defection in the middle of the chain. Not to mention, the KLR has long travel suspension, so it's going to be longer than that. (2.0-2.6 inches, according to some quick googling). A too tight chain can cause serious damage to the engine as the countershaft sprocket takes all the abuse of bumps because the chain tightens up and effectively locks the rear suspension. Bad news.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 23:37
|
|
|
For bikes like the KLR or other dual-sports or dirt bikes, you are better off too loose than too tight
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2010 23:40
|
|
|
Anyone have tips for loosening the chain tension? My service manual is really sparse. Tightening is no problem since all I have is turn the nuts but loosening turned out to be a major pain in the rear end with just a side stand.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 01:34
|
|
|
on a KLR you just need to kick the tire once you start loosening th adjusters. Don't bother lining up the notches, they're useless, just look down the rear sprocket to make sure it looks straight.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 01:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 05:58 |
|
|
Armacham posted:on a KLR you just need to kick the tire once you start loosening th adjusters. Don't bother lining up the notches, they're useless, just look down the rear sprocket to make sure it looks straight. Thats good to know about the notches. I'll kick the poo poo out of it tomorrow after I get off work.
|
|
#
?
May 14, 2010 01:45
|
|