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How do the mid 90's FZRs compare to he Honda F2/F3s? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/1739789034.html
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May 14, 2010 07:49
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| # ? May 21, 2024 17:33 |
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Hughmoris posted:Anyone have tips for loosening the chain tension? I've found that rolling the bike back and forth several times after changing the adjustment bolts is effective for getting the axle to shift positions. Of course my bike weighs 550 pounds.
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May 14, 2010 14:09
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infraboy posted:How do the mid 90's FZRs compare to he Honda F2/F3s? Pretty comparable, but I think the earlier ones may have used odd sized rims (18 inch rear, iirc), which can make getting rubber difficult.
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May 14, 2010 15:05
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infraboy posted:How do the mid 90's FZRs compare to he Honda F2/F3s? I would guess they are pretty comparable. I have never ridden the FZR but I have ridden the YZF600R and I think those are a real bargain performance wise. I found the YZF600R to be a really fun bike to ride that seemed like a lot better bike than the F2/F3. Don't you have an F2/F3? I wouldn't bother with an FZR if you're looking for more performance.
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May 14, 2010 15:06
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Armacham posted:For bikes like the KLR or other dual-sports or dirt bikes, you are better off too loose than too tight For pretty much any bike having a loose chain is far far safer than a chain that is too tight. For an offroad bike I do 3 fingers of slack measured on top of the swingarm at about the mid point between the front sprocket and the rear axle.
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May 14, 2010 15:09
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Yeah, a too tight chain puts a ton of stress on the output shaft bearing, and you really dont want to replace that.
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May 14, 2010 15:16
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Dear A.I., Please diagnose my bike problem. It was riding around just fine until one evening when it wouldn't start. I did the trick where you put it into 2nd, push it fast, then pop the clutch, and it started just fine. I assumed the battery was dead, so I bought a new battery and put that in. Started without issues for 2 weeks or so, then one day it just didn't start again. I couldn't get it to start by doing the push thing. I pulled the battery out, charged it, and it then the bike started right up. Now to me this says alternator, but I'm not even entirely sure there is an alternator IN motorcycles. Am I right in my evaluation, or is it some other part? Yours Truly, The Wonder Weapon PS it's a 98 honda cbr600 f3 The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 18:50 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 17:26
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Dear The Wonder Weapon, You neglected to tell us which motorcycle you posses. However, many motorcycles share a common charging failure, in that the regulator/rectifier assembly goes "tango uniform". Sometimes it is as simple as checking the connector for signs of flaming doom, or it may need replacement. There is no shame in seeking help for this problem, many riders have struggled with this over the years but have recovered with the help of a voltmeter and a check of the voltage at the battery while the bike is running. Sincerely, Gnomad
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May 15, 2010 17:48
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Oh yeah. It's a 1998 Honda CBR 600 f3. I don't own a voltmeter, but I guess I should invest. What am I looking for when I examine the voltage over the battery?
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May 15, 2010 18:49
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Oh yeah. It's a 1998 Honda CBR 600 f3. I don't own a voltmeter, but I guess I should invest. What am I looking for when I examine the voltage over the battery? http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php
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May 15, 2010 19:03
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EDIT: ^^^ or follow that awesome guideThe Wonder Weapon posted:Oh yeah. It's a 1998 Honda CBR 600 f3. I don't own a voltmeter, but I guess I should invest. What am I looking for when I examine the voltage over the battery? Trying to fix electrical problems like this without a voltmeter boils down to just randomly replacing poo poo and praying. You need that. A battery at rest should be somewhere north of 12v. With the bike on and running it should jump up to 13v plus. If it does not, it's not charging. What is probably more likely though, is that your battery is toast. How old is it? You can take it out and bring it in to an autoparts store like Pep Boys or Autozone and they can test it for you. Or if you have a BatteriesPlus near you, they can also test it, and you can buy a replacement right there. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:07 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 19:05
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Doctor Zero posted:EDIT: ^^^ or follow that awesome guide I'll pick up a voltmeter shortly. The battery is a month old, by the way. Just bought it.
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May 15, 2010 19:09
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A voltmeter costs like 5$
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May 15, 2010 19:14
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Even a really intense one is only like $20, very worth it.
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May 15, 2010 19:25
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AncientTV posted:Even a really intense one is only like $20, very worth it. That'd be about as intense as a Radio Shack soldering iron 
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May 15, 2010 19:34
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I wasn't talkin the $3000 multimeters electrical engineers use. < >$20 is plenty for any of us plebeians with motorbikes.
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May 15, 2010 19:37
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Digital types are the best for diagnostics like this, pick up one of those.
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May 15, 2010 19:38
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Z3n posted:Digital types are the best for diagnostics like this, pick up one of those. Yes, and make sure it does resistance and automatic ranging. You'll thank me when you have to calibrate a throttle position sensor.
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May 15, 2010 19:41
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AncientTV posted:I wasn't talkin the $3000 multimeters electrical engineers use. < I built my own DMM once < >But seriously, for those of you who buy things for life, a $100 Fluke will last you forever. UserNotFound fucked around with this message at 19:45 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 19:42
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If you want to score some good tools at good prices hit up the pawnshops in your areas. I've got a Fluke 80 I use at work but the Radio Shack I use at home poo poo the bed after years of abuse. I did the pawn shop loop and came away with a nearly new Blue Point rebranded Fluke for $35.
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May 15, 2010 20:01
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Analog Triplett or Simpson, nothing else will ever be worth using!  Side note-I had an old Simpson that I got at a yard sale in a big box of electronic stuff, couldn't give that thing away. Took it to the local ham radio club for the Christmas party/Chinese auction and the greybeards founght savagely over it. I guess you have to know your market.
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May 15, 2010 22:04
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drat, I'm sure I asked this a long time ago, but I haven't touched my bike in a long time and I'm getting it ready to ride again. '92 Seca - the petcock has three settings, PRIME, ON (pointing downwards) and FUEL (pointing upwards). Which one of these is the reserve tank? I'm assuming ON? edit: also, just so I don't look like a fool, I did try to find this information online. All I found was that my petcock labels are different and don't use whats noted to be the norm. great~ AF fucked around with this message at 00:23 on May 16, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 00:20
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Uthor posted:Hey, I, too, have problems with a 500 cc Kawasaki engine. 2007 Vulcan 500. This is from a couple weeks ago. Today I checked the air box (dirty filter, but nothing inside) and the petcock (seems to flow fine; is there a procedure for checking if the vacuum is working?). The battery seems low on fluid, but it charged, started, and ran the bike fine at idle for 30+ minutes. Stupidly, I took everything apart before checking the electronics. Anyway, that's not really the question. When I pulled the bike out this morning, there was some coolant on the fins of the engine. There's a small hole on either side of the block between a couple of fins and the coolant seems to have come from here. What are the holes for? How is coolant coming out of here? Here are a couple of blurry pictures. I would take better ones, but the batteries on the camera died. Coolant on the engine: .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Hole it's coming from: .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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May 16, 2010 01:32
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My bike is also pissing coolant from somewhere I have yet to discover, but my symptoms match yours. Someone help 
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May 16, 2010 02:54
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To be clear, mine's not "pissing coolant." I have plenty in the bike. It's just that little bit on the engine, and few drops lower, and none on the ground.
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May 16, 2010 05:35
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Is it possible those holes are drain holes in case your spark plug wells get filled with water? If that's what they are then there is probably a coolant hose or something to that effect leaking above your cylinder head.
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May 16, 2010 05:58
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My bike won't start. On friday I rode my new-to-me '02 Shadow Spirit 750 for about an hour, and parked it in my driveway. Ignition off, fuel valve off. Here I am sunday morning, trying to start it for the first time since. Fuel valve on, ignition on, engine switch on. With the ignition on, all my instruments work fine, blinkers, headlight, brake light, etc. But holding the clutch and trying to start the bike produces nothing, no audible sound or detectable movement in the bike whatsoever. It seems like an electrical problem, but then why are my instruments and lights working fine? I also want to mention that I am an extremely new rider! If you're thinking to yourself "it couldn't possibly be that, who would be stupid enough not to know to do that?", guess what, that would be me! The bike had ought to be in great shape, as I had it delivered after an inspection from the dealership on friday!
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May 16, 2010 14:04
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The Bramble posted:My bike won't start. I vote weak battery. pull the battery and have an autoparts store test it. edit: You didn't leave the headlight on overnight or ... I dunno, something crazy like that did you? PadreScout fucked around with this message at 14:15 on May 16, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 14:12
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Kickstand up? Bike may have to be in Neutral to use the starter
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May 16, 2010 14:17
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Kickstand up? Bike may have to be in Neutral to use the starter heh heh, I knew it was something stupid.
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May 16, 2010 15:57
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Kickstand up? Bike may have to be in Neutral to use the starter I did this a few weeks ago with my friends R1. We decided to switch bikes for a while so he gets on mine and takes off. I start his, let the clutch out and it shuts off. I do this again and then again a few more times. After a bit of thought I remembered my CBR needed the stand up to go. I put it up and finally make it out to the street feeling kinda dumb.
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May 16, 2010 16:20
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Uthor posted:To be clear, mine's not "pissing coolant." I have plenty in the bike. It's just that little bit on the engine, and few drops lower, and none on the ground. I should have been a bit more clear. Mine doesn't leak at a stand-still, rather when I really give it the beans, and usually only from a stop. I'll look down and my right boot will be sprayed with coolant.
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May 16, 2010 16:32
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If I put the bike on the center stand, is it okay to use a front stand as well or am I going to have to get a SSSA rearstand to take the wheels off?
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May 16, 2010 21:27
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Endless Mike posted:If I put the bike on the center stand, is it okay to use a front stand as well or am I going to have to get a SSSA rearstand to take the wheels off? For both wheels? Take off the rear while on the center, then put some weight on the rear seat and some blocks of wood under the SSSA hub then remove front wheel. Its what I would do.
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May 16, 2010 22:38
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My '09 bonneville has some oil seeping around the edge of the cranking. I have checked the level regularly and it seems to be unchanging. I don't notice any drips or leaks, just an even seep all around the seem. 1. Should I be worried about this? 2. Do I need to replace the gasket? 3. Is this indicative of another problem? I changed the oil at the 500 mile interval using whatever the recommended synthetic was (some ungodly expensive oil). She is right around 2200 miles now: half city half twisties, with some random freeway intervals thrown in.
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May 16, 2010 22:48
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Bugdrvr posted:Is it possible those holes are drain holes in case your spark plug wells get filled with water? If that's what they are then there is probably a coolant hose or something to that effect leaking above your cylinder head. Yeah, that's probably it. I may have spilled some coolant down there last time I took the valve cover off. I went to pull the spark plugs to see if they offered any clues to my problems. The left one took way more force to remove than I expected, which is weird 'cause I torque it down properly with a torque wrench. I get it out and think I found the cause of my woes. .JPG) Click here for the full 900x1200 image. .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. (I was having some problem getting proper focus, so the images are blurry.) Now I know what my problem is, but I don't know what caused this damage. I also don't know if there's damage further down (cylinder, valves, etc). For comparison, here's the other spark plug. .JPG) Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Looks a little dark to me, but I'm not really sure.
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May 16, 2010 23:57
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That looks like the spark plug is too long. Are you sure that one is the same size as the others? If so the spark plug guides all say that is the result of pre-ignition. I have no idea what causes pre-ignition. Wrong octane fuel?
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May 17, 2010 00:01
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The NonBornKing posted:That looks like the spark plug is too long. Are you sure that one is the same size as the others? They're the stock plugs. It may look long from the angle and that they are still in the spark plug socket when I took the pictures. The bike is supposed to run 87 octane, which is what I've always ran in it.
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May 17, 2010 00:06
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2 questions: - When my bike starts up cold, it needs a while before the blinkers start to work. Why is that? It starts and idles perfectly fine, it just takes 5-10mins before they start to actually blink. Kind of annoying if I have people waiting for me, but I refuse to go out on the streets without them functioning. - Is this Clymer Honda manual good to purchase? I'm an absolute newbie to mechanical things, and the official manual seems to be at least double the price, so I opted for this, and bought it. It's a '83 Honda Shadow 500cc by the way.
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May 17, 2010 00:58
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Binge posted:2 questions: -Check your battery. My buddy's blinkers stopped blinking when his battery died (he would kick start it). Seems like there wasn't enough current to get the blinking to go. In your case, I'm guessing the batt is a little low and it takes a little bit for the charging system to get it working right. -Better than nothing and probably good enough for your purposes.
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May 17, 2010 01:51
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