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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:For both wheels? Take off the rear while on the center, then put some weight on the rear seat and some blocks of wood under the SSSA hub then remove front wheel. Its what I would do.
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May 17, 2010 04:13
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Uthor posted:Yeah, that's probably it. I may have spilled some coolant down there last time I took the valve cover off. You have a serious lean condition on that side, that is a classic "burndown" and you are right to be concerned. For some reason, that cylinder isn't getting a proper fuel charge, enough to ignite and burn that plug but the heat involved will burn right through the piston if you let it go. I'd check the carb for a blocked jet circut, probably the main side, and leaks around the intake boot. You'll want to do a compression test to see if your piston is fuxored, the reason the plug came out hard is that aluminum has vaporized and condensed on the exposed plug threads. I wish the news was better.
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May 17, 2010 04:36
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Binge posted:2 questions: What's your battery voltage with the bike off, and the bike running and reved to 1/3rd of total RPM or 3k, whichever is higher? The cylmer is good, probably better than the factory manual as the factory manual makes some assumptions about your skill level as a mechanic.
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May 17, 2010 05:37
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Gnomad posted:I wish the news was better. Hey, at least I know where the problem is. I was worried I wouldn't find anything, leaving me with a bike that doesn't run for reasons I can't figure out. Now it's on to scary things like carbs and engine internals. Actually, if the piston is hosed, I'm probably better off just letting a pro deal with it.
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May 17, 2010 07:25
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Today sucked. I was cooking along on der scooter, up on one of those gigantic sweeping ramps that connect highways to other highways. I had it tucked in doing 60-65 and soon as it tucked it began to .. for lack of a better word shimmy, didn't settle down until I stood the bike back up, so now I get to figure out exactly WTF is wrong with my machine. The suspension has never been setup especially well, so I suspect it's probably further suspension troubles, but have any of you guys had experience with this? Serious lateral bike shake in a turn? The steering didn't feel like it was shaking in my hands so much as ... the entire loving bike. I already checked the wheel bearing front and rear- they seem alright so, yeah, big pain in my rear end. Thanks.
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May 18, 2010 04:34
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PadreScout posted:Today sucked. I was cooking along on der scooter, up on one of those gigantic sweeping ramps that connect highways to other highways. I had it tucked in doing 60-65 and soon as it tucked it began to .. for lack of a better word shimmy, didn't settle down until I stood the bike back up, so now I get to figure out exactly WTF is wrong with my machine. The suspension has never been setup especially well, so I suspect it's probably further suspension troubles, but have any of you guys had experience with this? Serious lateral bike shake in a turn? The steering didn't feel like it was shaking in my hands so much as ... the entire loving bike. I already checked the wheel bearing front and rear- they seem alright so, yeah, big pain in my rear end. Thanks. Was it a fast shake, or just a general feeling on instability? How are your tires looking? Tread, pressure?
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May 18, 2010 15:26
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PadreScout posted:Today sucked. I was cooking along on der scooter, up on one of those gigantic sweeping ramps that connect highways to other highways. I had it tucked in doing 60-65 and soon as it tucked it began to .. for lack of a better word shimmy, didn't settle down until I stood the bike back up, so now I get to figure out exactly WTF is wrong with my machine. The suspension has never been setup especially well, so I suspect it's probably further suspension troubles, but have any of you guys had experience with this? Serious lateral bike shake in a turn? The steering didn't feel like it was shaking in my hands so much as ... the entire loving bike. I already checked the wheel bearing front and rear- they seem alright so, yeah, big pain in my rear end. Thanks. Is it happening constantly or did it happen only once ? Wavy pavement on a turn leads to exactly this sensation...
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May 18, 2010 16:21
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PadreScout posted:Today sucked. I was cooking along on der scooter, up on one of those gigantic sweeping ramps that connect highways to other highways. I had it tucked in doing 60-65 and soon as it tucked it began to .. for lack of a better word shimmy, didn't settle down until I stood the bike back up, so now I get to figure out exactly WTF is wrong with my machine. The suspension has never been setup especially well, so I suspect it's probably further suspension troubles, but have any of you guys had experience with this? Serious lateral bike shake in a turn? The steering didn't feel like it was shaking in my hands so much as ... the entire loving bike. I already checked the wheel bearing front and rear- they seem alright so, yeah, big pain in my rear end. Thanks. Wavy pavement, bad tires/pressures, suspension, head bearings. But were you really tight on the bars? Because that'll do it too.
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May 18, 2010 17:14
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Z3n posted:Wavy pavement, bad tires/pressures, suspension, head bearings. Naw, I tend to just push on the inside bar and let my outside hand just hold the throttle ( in this case, left hander), I'm pretty loose on the steering. The entire bike felt insecure. Tire pressure are fine, head bearing I haven't checked- I'll have to check my bookmarks but I recall K75s have some known issue about that poo poo, and the shake was rapid, like.... well , the closest I can equate it to is when you drive, and you get into slick stuff, you know how you get the sensation the car is "snapping" back and forth- a bit like that snap when tires grab and the back end suddenly changes direction, only quickly back and forth. In bike terms it was most similar too a really rapid wobble, only the track wasn't changing, it was just .... coming through the seat and bars. I dunno, I've never experienced a sensation like this before. I've ridden that road before and it was fine, maybe something got spilled or ... the pavement is all hosed or something- it looked fine, clear skys, no wet pavement, plenty of light and the condision of the road looked fine... I'm stumped.
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May 19, 2010 01:10
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Just 2 days ago I posted that my 83 Honda Shadow starts and idles just fine. Now that has changed! But I have my manual coming tomorrow, and my neighbor who is decent with such stuff coming by too. I'm actually kind of excited to try and diagnose and fix my first real issue. It barely starts, and when it does, it idles kinda rough, and if i give it any throttle, it immediately dies. I've had it hooked up to my cars' battery to keep recharging its own. So i'm assuming the battery being the problem is out of the equation. The spark plugs I guess are fairly new (i've only had the bike for 5 days). But I did spend those 5 days putting at least 250 miles or so on it. So this is definitely out of the blue.
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May 19, 2010 01:17
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So I took my battery out to test a starting issue, and one of those stupid nuts securing the battery wire in place, when loosened from the screw, fell out. I can't find it anymore. Where could I find one of those small nuts to buy to fit my battery terminal screws (any specifications)?
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May 19, 2010 02:03
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Maybe found a solution to my bikes weirdness. From what the internet says- my tires .. Metzler Laser somethings are absolute poo poo and most K guys won't put them on their bike. Well- guess what mine came with. Yeah, time to do some tire shopping.
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May 19, 2010 02:18
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K bikes react poorly to worn tires and head bearing problems, and they really dislike squared off tires. Mine would just about slap a person silly-they did have a bad rap for tankslappers in the early days.
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May 19, 2010 02:55
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Gnomad posted:K bikes react poorly to worn tires and head bearing problems, and they really dislike squared off tires. Mine would just about slap a person silly-they did have a bad rap for tankslappers in the early days. Yeah, now that I know what I am looking for- the tires are trying to murder me. According to the MOA forums the hot ticket these days are Metzeler 880s. So I'll give a set of those a shot.
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May 19, 2010 13:50
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Can you get Michelin Pilot Roads in a size that'll fit? They've got a sharper profile, which will help if they don't like squaring off.
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May 19, 2010 14:27
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Binge posted:Just 2 days ago I posted that my 83 Honda Shadow starts and idles just fine. Now that has changed! But I have my manual coming tomorrow, and my neighbor who is decent with such stuff coming by too. I'm a total motorcycle nub but I'm gonna take a stab at diagnosing - carb issue. What do the smarter folks think?
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May 19, 2010 15:15
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PadreScout posted:Maybe found a solution to my bikes weirdness. From what the internet says- my tires .. Metzler Laser somethings are absolute poo poo and most K guys won't put them on their bike. Well- guess what mine came with. The garbage IRC tires that came stock on my bike make a similar sensation when you're leaned way over. It almost feels like they are losing traction and regaining it many times in rapid succession.
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May 19, 2010 15:41
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Binge posted:Just 2 days ago I posted that my 83 Honda Shadow starts and idles just fine. Now that has changed! But I have my manual coming tomorrow, and my neighbor who is decent with such stuff coming by too. Out of gas? Motorcycle batteries don't charge at idle. Also, does it run ok if you leave the car battery connected while you run it?
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May 19, 2010 16:42
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frozenphil posted:The garbage IRC tires that came stock on my bike make a similar sensation when you're leaned way over. It almost feels like they are losing traction and regaining it many times in rapid succession. Yeah, that's about what mine did. So I'm hunting for a good price on a set of 880s , the K bike guys seem to like them well enough. 2ndclasscitizen posted:Can you get Michelin Pilot Roads in a size that'll fit? They've got a sharper profile, which will help if they don't like squaring off. I'll look, but probably not- the K75 uses some squirrely rear end narrow tire thats a huge pain in the rear end to find rubber for, I'll look though, maybe I'll get lucky. EDIT: Front 100/90-18 Back 130/90-17 loving weird rear end tires. PadreScout fucked around with this message at 18:32 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 17:43
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I'm back searching for a little more electrical system guidance. For reference:The Wonder Weapon posted:Dear A.I., I have since purchased a voltmeter, and took a few measurements. 3 days ago, while it was running, the battery was ~12.5v at rest, and ~13.5v-14.5v at idle. Today, it doesn't start. The battery is reading about 11.5v sitting on my desk. At first, it wouldn't start, but it was definitely trying. You could tell the battery was dead. I popped the clutch and it started up. I got almost all the way home and it just cuts off while sitting at a red light. I didn't stall it or anything; I was just sitting there and it shut off. After that, nothing. It doesn't try to start, and popping the clutch does nothing. I'm guessing that what is occurring is the battery doesn't charge properly, to where it won't start the bike. At that point, you can start it by popping the clutch, but shortly after, the battery just loses all charge and the electrical system on the bike just shuts down entirely, even while running. At this point, you just have to remove and charge the battery. Now before I start tearing things apart and checking all the connections, I'm hoping someone can accurately diagnose the problem, and point to a single part I can purchase and replace. My work schedule, paired with my general lack of knowledge about most of this, and the fact that I have nobody to help me, makes any sort of work on the bike difficult, especially something potentially time consuming with no definitive answer in sight. For reference, it's a 1998 Honda CBR600 F3. also 2 quickies: It seems that taking off the gas tank means all the gas inside is going to come pouring out. Is that correct? Also, I've been putting 93 octane gas in the tank. I can't seem to find the proper gas type on google or the manual I have.
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May 19, 2010 23:24
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The Wonder Weapon posted:also 2 quickies: It seems that taking off the gas tank means all the gas inside is going to come pouring out. Is that correct? Also, I've been putting 93 octane gas in the tank. I can't seem to find the proper gas type on google or the manual I have. However, if your petcock has PRI, ON, RES settings, then I can see the confusion. It will only flow fuel without vacuum applied in the PRI position. ON and RES won't flow fuel unless you (or the bike) suck on the vacuum line.
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May 19, 2010 23:30
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm back searching for a little more electrical system guidance. For reference: Yes, either your stator or your regulator/rectifier is toast. First, I'd check all the connections for corrosion, damage, or melting. Then, check the 3 wires coming off the stator with the multimeter in AC Volts mode. You should see 45v AC from each one. If you do, and the wiring is all intact from the stator to the R/R and you're still not getting charging voltage at 5k at the battery, then chances are your R/R fried. It's a plug and play part, they're known for burning out. Any questions, chime up 
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May 19, 2010 23:35
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Jabs posted:PRI, ON, OFF or ON, RES, OFF (I don't know that I've seen one marked like this, but I suppose it's *possible*) are self explanatory. Mine is On, Off, and Res. So if I put it to On or Res and disconnect the tank, there won't be some tube pouring gas everywhere? edit: Sorry for dub post The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 19, 2010 |
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May 19, 2010 23:36
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Z3n posted:Yes, either your stator or your regulator/rectifier is toast. First, I'd check all the connections for corrosion, damage, or melting. Then, check the 3 wires coming off the stator with the multimeter in AC Volts mode. You should see 45v AC from each one. I'm assuming this is at idle? quote:If you do, and the wiring is all intact from the stator to the R/R and you're still not getting charging voltage at 5k at the battery, then chances are your R/R fried. It's a plug and play part, they're known for burning out. This is what I'm looking for, right? http://www.artandmotorcycles.com/servlet/the-6863/Honda-CBR600-'91-dsh-'00-regulator/Detail I also want to thank all of you guys. You are expediently and thoroughly helpful, and I don't know where else I could get this kind of assistance, especially free.
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May 19, 2010 23:41
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm assuming this is at idle? Sorry, my mistake: Check them with the bike reved to 5k. A motorcycle's charging circuit doesn't make any power at low RPM. You should see a consistent anywhere from 40-50v. And yeah, that looks about right. Not sure what the exact setup is on that year of bike, but that's the right looking part at least. Edit: We're here to help and enjoy the fine comedy of JTS.
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May 19, 2010 23:42
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine is On, Off, and Res. So if I put it to On or Res and disconnect the tank, there won't be some tube pouring gas everywhere? No. If it's got an OFF, it's most likely not a vacuum operated petcock and you should have it at OFF when you disconnect it.
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May 19, 2010 23:44
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm guessing that what is occurring is the battery doesn't charge properly, to where it won't start the bike. At that point, you can start it by popping the clutch, but shortly after, the battery just loses all charge and the electrical system on the bike just shuts down entirely, even while running. Just a quick note, one of two things could be happening. Either your stator is hosed and your battery is not receiving a charge at all, which would cause a situation that you describe here. BUT, your rectifier could also be bad, meaning that the stator is supplying a charge, but without the rectifier to regulate it, the battery receives way too much juice and instead of losing charge, it just gets cooked. The result is the same, the bike will die suddenly and will not turn back on. The difference is, if your battery is getting cooked, you also risk blowing fuses, bulbs, and stuff of that nature when the battery fails. You'll also notice a sulphuric odor emanating from the battery if it's well and truly cooked. And of course, hooking a cooked battery up to a tender will not charge it up much since the battery is basically done.
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May 20, 2010 00:00
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Just a quick note, one of two things could be happening. Either your stator is hosed and your battery is not receiving a charge at all, which would cause a situation that you describe here. BUT, your rectifier could also be bad, meaning that the stator is supplying a charge, but without the rectifier to regulate it, the battery receives way too much juice and instead of losing charge, it just gets cooked. The result is the same, the bike will die suddenly and will not turn back on. The difference is, if your battery is getting cooked, you also risk blowing fuses, bulbs, and stuff of that nature when the battery fails. You'll also notice a sulphuric odor emanating from the battery if it's well and truly cooked. And of course, hooking a cooked battery up to a tender will not charge it up much since the battery is basically done. The typical failure mode for a R/R seems to actually be to not feed DC power at all. The failure mode you describe does occur but seems to be less common for whatever reason. It's easy to see if it's charging or not, just slap the multimeter on the battery and see what voltage you get. If it's over 14.5v, then yes, your battery is getting cooked. Usually that's not the case though.
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May 20, 2010 00:11
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A multimeter with a diode test function can diagnose a failed r/r in about 15 seconds. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
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May 20, 2010 01:10
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does any one know the stock jetting on a drz 400e? We're going to be putting the stock exhaust back on becky's bike and I want to make sure we're starting at square 1.
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May 20, 2010 17:38
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Alright I got the bike home and did a little tinkering with the voltmeter, and here is what I got. The battery at rest, charged to probably 75%-90%, shows 12.2v. While the bike is idling at ~1.5k, it's 11.7v. With the RPMs at about 5k, the battery still shows 11.7v. (This seems significant) Then I measured the wires on this thing with the bike off: .jpg) Click here for the full 800x600 image. Between the Green and Red, it was 12.2v. Between the Green and Yellow and Yellow and Red, it was 0. I didn't touch this thing:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. There was a spider living in this thing:  It crawled out when I started playing with it, and when I took it out, there was a thick web with a dead spider underneath. It was kind of sad. (This seems significant.)
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May 20, 2010 23:42
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If you look at the left side of the bike, you should see 3 yellow or black wires coming out of the stator cover. Disconnect that connector, and check the voltage with the bike reved to 5k between the wires...ie, check wires 1-2 against each other, 2-3 against each other, and 1-3 against each other. If it's around 40-50v AC on each check, you're good. If it's not, your stator has failed. If your stator checks out good, then you need to check the wiring from the stator to the R/R, if that checks out, replace the R/R and you should be charging again The thing you didn't touch is the ECU (not the problem), and the thing with the cooling vanes on it is the R/R. Usually the failure is your R/R, but better to check and be sure...nothing sucks more than replacing the wrong part (i've done that before...)
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May 20, 2010 23:45
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Z3n posted:If you look at the left side of the bike, you should see 3 yellow or black wires coming out of the stator cover. Disconnect that connector, and check the voltage with the bike reved to 5k between the wires...ie, check wires 1-2 against each other, 2-3 against each other, and 1-3 against each other. If it's around 40-50v AC on each check, you're good. If it's not, your stator has failed. If your stator checks out good, then you need to check the wiring from the stator to the R/R, if that checks out, replace the R/R and you should be charging again Ok but I need a 2nd pair of hands for this, so it will have to wait a day or two.
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May 20, 2010 23:55
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok but I need a 2nd pair of hands for this, so it will have to wait a day or two. Yeah eventually you get really good at balancing the multimeter on the seat, the connector and pins in one hand, and reving with your other hand. 
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May 21, 2010 00:44
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Any ideas on this? When my Warrior is cold, like running less than around 5 minutes, it stalls when I'm braking and kick it down into first as I come to a stop. It starts right up again, and it idles fine, just keeps stalling at that first stoplight as I exit my neighborhood. I'm usually in third, brake and blip-shift down to second, then as I'm still braking, at about 10-15mph, I let off the gas, pull the clutch, kick it into first, and it dies. Once well warmed up, there's zero problems.
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May 21, 2010 01:18
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chryst posted:Any ideas on this? When my Warrior is cold, like running less than around 5 minutes, it stalls when I'm braking and kick it down into first as I come to a stop. My dad has a Warrior too and his does the same thing. However when I ride the motorcycle it doesn't happen to me. So my first question is are you running stock exhaust or aftermarket? Second is, how aggressive are you driving when this happens? I putter around on the bike and pops guns the poo poo out of it and it dies on him. Plus he has straight pipes so I think the answer lies in the computer not being tuned for the new exhaust but this is just a guess.
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May 21, 2010 01:21
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Coredump posted:My dad has a Warrior too and his does the same thing. However when I ride the motorcycle it doesn't happen to me. So my first question is are you running stock exhaust or aftermarket? Second is, how aggressive are you driving when this happens? I putter around on the bike and pops guns the poo poo out of it and it dies on him. Plus he has straight pipes so I think the answer lies in the computer not being tuned for the new exhaust but this is just a guess. Yeah, it's got the V&H Big Shots exhaust. Not straight pipes, but they flow more than the stock. I baby my bikes when they're cold, but maybe it'll help to not blip into second. Thanks for the info. Guess I have an excuse to get a power commander now, huh?
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May 21, 2010 02:15
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chryst posted:Good to know it's not just me, cause that sounds like it's at least not a mechanical thing that'll get worse. That's what I would guess but rswarrior.com forums may have the answer for you, if you love MURICA. Here and svrider spoiled me and I forgot what other motorcycle forums are like.
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May 21, 2010 02:30
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Z3n posted:Yeah eventually you get really good at balancing the multimeter on the seat, the connector and pins in one hand, and reving with your other hand. The only things bullet connectors are good for are holding probes in place 
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May 21, 2010 04:10
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UserNotFound posted:The only things bullet connectors are good for are holding probes in place Alligator clips are where it's at yo.
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May 21, 2010 15:35
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