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Stoic Commie posted:He said he wouldn't go below $675, I said no. The search continues for another summer. You probably made the right decision.. "it only needs a $5 part and then it will run fine!!!" well great, man up and get that sorted out, then get back to me
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May 20, 2010 05:01
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Stoic Commie posted:He said he wouldn't go below $675, I said no. The search continues for another summer. I might have offered $700, if he put in a new battery and cleaned the carbs. I think you made the right decision though, walking away from anything questionable. It's a big world with a lot of bikes out there.
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May 20, 2010 05:58
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Dear Auntie CA: Although I've been mostly hugely impressed by my Hornet (see 599 thread), I'm thinking about trading up or sideways to something with more midrange torque and better standard suspension. The bike basically does a 20 mile commute over back roads, a bit of 30 mph town riding and some fast, straight dual carriageway. When I can afford it and if am allowed out of the house, it will do a few trackdays. So it has to be a good road bike without extreme track bias, but with top-drawer handling. The Hornet has power, build quality and extraordinary chassis balance, but also that elastic-band 600 feeling when rolling on to pass traffic, and the rear shock holds it back badly on bumpy roads. Has anyone ridden the following, and if so, any comments on suitability, good points/bad points, durability etc.? CB1000R Tuono Racing/Factory or RSV Factory Hypermotard 1100S Superduke 990 690 Duke or 690SM Before anyone suggests it, I tried the Street Triple before getting the Hornet and love the engine, but the riding position and chassis set up (at least on the R) seems to be pure Daytona 675, and aside from the neck-ache, that means the chassis will be miserably unsuited to riding in the middle of winter on icy/greasy roads.
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May 20, 2010 12:45
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I've never heard a bad word said about the Tuono. Every one I know who rode it, loved it. The only issues I know of are slightly lovely clucth and rear brake master cylinders that need fairly regular bleeding. As for the Superduke, I've ridden the R version, not the regular one. Handles brilliantly, stonking motor. But you'd want to budget for a Powercommander to fine-tune the fuelling. The R's quite bad on/off the throttle, the standard 990 is supposed to be better, but still not perfect. I've also ridden the 690 Duke R. It's a good bike, but I just didn't click with it. It handles really well, punchy motor, not too vibey. But I didn't like how narrow it was, I couldn't get into a position where I felt comfortable, and I just don't think I'm a single-cylinder type of guy. (For full disclosure: I've pretty much only ridden 4-cyl bikes with fairly wide tanks.) CB1000R is supposed to be a good bike, lacking a few ponies for what it's supposed to be, but still good. Very Honda. Hypermotard is good bit of kit from what I've read. Main complaint seems to be the handguard mirrors and small tank. Don't forget the Speed Triple either, or the new model Z1000.
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May 20, 2010 12:59
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Hey, thanks for the great info.  Seems like you've ridden pretty much everything I'm considering.I like the Tuono as well - I was lent a regular old Tuono years ago at that track just outside of Pittsburgh (I forget the name, but it's pretty awesome), and loved it. Factories are also stupid cheap - you can now buy the whole drat bike for the price of the suspension. How unstable is the SDuke? I've heard the R is a bridge too far on the road, and I kind of like not needing a steering damper. Good to know about the fueling - given the ample supply of used Superdukes, I'd only buy a 990 with "free" Akras, so hopefully it wouldn't be an issue. On the 690, do you recall where it started to run out of puff? With my Duke II, you basically had to get out and push once you got above 60, and if you held it at 90 it would pretty much go from a lovely 55mpg down to about 30. How is the gearing? The Duke II was too low in 1st and too high in 2nd for easy town riding (unless you just caned it everywhere). I would go ride one, but as you know KTM dealers don't grow on trees. I've heard people complain about the CBthou's lack of power, but apparently, unlike the 600 Hornet, the restriction is all in the exhaust. Put a can on it and rejet and you basically gain 10hp and about 20lbft (!) everywhere above 4,000 rpm. The dyno curve on the Akrapovic website is pretty jaw-dropping. My big issue with it is the ~217kg. I do like the looks of the Speed Trip and the edginess of the new Z1000, but they're really too heavy for me and the roads I have to ride. Bumpy, off cambered B roads with loose top dressing, potholes, farm dirt, eroded edges, etc. That's why something slim and compact like a Duke works so well. If it goes sideways, you basically just let it move, try to pick it up slightly and stand on the outside peg. IME try that with a wide, heavy bike and it will try to drag you into a hedge.
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May 20, 2010 14:26
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Saga posted:How unstable is the SDuke? I've heard the R is a bridge too far on the road, and I kind of like not needing a steering damper. Good to know about the fueling - given the ample supply of used Superdukes, I'd only buy a 990 with "free" Akras, so hopefully it wouldn't be an issue. Felt fine, but the roads I was on weren't that bad. A damper isn't that bad. Saga posted:On the 690, do you recall where it started to run out of puff? With my Duke II, you basically had to get out and push once you got above 60, and if you held it at 90 it would pretty much go from a lovely 55mpg down to about 30. How is the gearing? The Duke II was too low in 1st and too high in 2nd for easy town riding (unless you just caned it everywhere). I would go ride one, but as you know KTM dealers don't grow on trees. I've heard of people being able to cruise fairly easily at 130-140km/h on them, they should be able to edge 100mph. Saga posted:I do like the looks of the Speed Trip and the edginess of the new Z1000, but they're really too heavy for me and the roads I have to ride. Bumpy, off cambered B roads with loose top dressing, potholes, farm dirt, eroded edges, etc. That's why something slim and compact like a Duke works so well. If it goes sideways, you basically just let it move, try to pick it up slightly and stand on the outside peg. IME try that with a wide, heavy bike and it will try to drag you into a hedge. That sounds like usual Aussie backroads. Try shoving the inside bar instead of using the pegs, size is really relevant in that situation. A bit more weight will also stop you getting chucked off line in the first place. And the Speed Trip and Z1000 are the same weight as the Tuono and CB1000R. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 14:55 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 14:52
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I have a 690 SMC, I'd say it pulls pretty well up to about 70mph, which is about as fast as it's comfortable to ride it due too the wind blast. It out handles every other street bike I've ridden. The only bike I would think about trading it in for is the Duke R.
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May 20, 2010 14:55
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2ndclasscitizen posted:That sounds like usual Aussie backroads. Try shoving the inside bar instead of using the pegs, size is really relevant in that situation. A bit more weight will also stop you getting chucked off line in the first place. And the Speed Trip and Z1000 are the same weight as the Tuono and CB1000R. I didn't mean to steer, but to keep it on the rubber bits if you lose one or both ends. The Duke was good at that - I hit gravel, cow poo poo, mud from tractors a few times on it and aside from getting your attention the unexpected 2-wheel drift was pretty survivable and undramatic. Wouldn't want to try that on a Foxeye blade, for example. Yeah, the CBk is a bit heavy, but if it's as well balanced as the 600 Hornet it will still be controllable, so it's at least worth a test ride. I thought the Tuono was ~180kg dry as opposed to 200 for the other two? Zool posted:I have a 690 SMC, I'd say it pulls pretty well up to about 70mph, which is about as fast as it's comfortable to ride it due too the wind blast. It out handles every other street bike I've ridden. The only bike I would think about trading it in for is the Duke R. Cool, thanks. What do you reckon the SMC actually puts out? On the 640 IIRC the quoted figures were very restricted as they assumed you would rejet and stick a race pipe on it. Still sounds only marginally better than the Duke II however. Maybe I just need to track down a SM/Duke and try it out? I did follow a 690SM around Brands indy, and it seemed to be on similar pace to my CBR400 down the straights. Might be enough for my commute, but on the straight bits I'm not sure if it would pull hard enough to manage the tighter overtakes.
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May 20, 2010 15:37
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Saga posted:Yeah, the CBk is a bit heavy, but if it's as well balanced as the 600 Hornet it will still be controllable, so it's at least worth a test ride. I thought the Tuono was ~180kg dry as opposed to 200 for the other two? They're all ~185kg dry, and ~210-220kg wet. The CB is only 1kg lighter than the Z1000. EDIT: Sounds like you should just get a 690SMC.
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May 20, 2010 16:29
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I don't know if I would recommend either of the Aprilias for bumpy-road riding. It might just be that I need to spend a bit of time working on it, but how my RSV handles on the horrible roads around here is the single minor issue I have with it.
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May 20, 2010 16:29
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Saga posted:I didn't mean to steer, but to keep it on the rubber bits if you lose one or both ends. The Duke was good at that - I hit gravel, cow poo poo, mud from tractors a few times on it and aside from getting your attention the unexpected 2-wheel drift was pretty survivable and undramatic. Wouldn't want to try that on a Foxeye blade, for example. They claim 62hp, which feels about right. The Duke R makes 70hp.
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May 20, 2010 16:41
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Ok here's another one that looks more promising: http://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/1749848981.html quote:1978 gs550e, runs. drove from charlevoix to manchester last summer. could use a good cleaning 13xxx original miles. new clutch. must sell. I talked to him on the phone, here are the three issues: 1. The front brake does not work, he bought the bike and rode it home from across the state with just the rear brake. He told me that he believes the previous owner replaced the flex line and never connected/bled it, so the brake is fine mechanically apparently? 2. The electric start does not work, but it does start when kicked. He said that all of the other electronics work and that it is most likely just the battery that needs replacing. 3. He said that gas was left in the tank since last season. I don't even know what to do about that? If I buy it what will I need to do to make sure nothing was hosed up? The bike is worth $900 in excellent condition according to kbb and he is selling it for $500 and he said that he could deliver it for a fee, so I am thinking I will offer him $500 delivered? Maybe $450? What do you guys think?
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May 20, 2010 18:17
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Are you looking for a project or a rider?
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May 20, 2010 18:27
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Stoic Commie posted:Ok here's another one that looks more promising: When I read a craigslist ad that says, "runs" and doesn't say "RUNS GREAT!" I get nervous. 1. Fixing the front brake might be as easy as bleeding everything, but you might end up having to disassemble everything. (Front brake caliper, master cylinder, blow out the existing brake lines)A bike that old is bound to need a new caliper piston seal plus a master cylinder rebuild kit. These parts will probably set you back $30-50. I hope you have a good set of circlp pliers. 2. Could be a weak battery, could be a bad starter. If it kicks and starts easily then there shouldn't be a problem. (I kick start my 77 CB750K because it makes me feel manly)Chances are it will need a new battery regardless. There's another $40-60. 3.If he is telling you there is old gas in the tank... than he's probably trying to tell you the carbs are all gunked up. At a minimum you need to drain that old gas but I bet the thing is barely running and will actually need a full carb tear down. Is there rust in the tank? How are the tires? What about the chain? Do shocks squeak when you bounce it up and down?
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May 20, 2010 18:36
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Crayvex posted:When I read a craigslist ad that says, "runs" and doesn't say "RUNS GREAT!" I get nervous. You know, I think with some dedication this bike won't take more than two weekends to get running incredibly (I have a great job right now and plenty of free time) , all things considered I am probably just going to buy it. The GS's of this generation are good anyway, so it is not a bad deal. I can't really think of anything that would be too expensive to replace, cleaning the carbs, maybe a new chain, some brake bits at the MOST, a battery, and hopefully not, but a new gas tank. These are all pretty easy things to replace aren't they? A manual, the ability to read, a little bit of money, and my friend's dad's tools, I think I will be ok. EDIT: Keep in mind I won't actually be looking at it until Saturday this is just things that he told me. So any advice on specific things to do or look for when I see it will help assess if there are any more problems than the manageable things I listed above. Stoic Commie fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 19:42
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Oakey posted:I don't know if I would recommend either of the Aprilias for bumpy-road riding. It might just be that I need to spend a bit of time working on it, but how my RSV handles on the horrible roads around here is the single minor issue I have with it. Good to know! Is this a Sachs/Boge equipped RSV (did I get that right?) or an Ohlins one? 2ndclasscitizen, the only problem with SMCs, unless they've changed the forumula for the new 690 engine, is the near dirt-bike sump capacity and hence teardown intervals. IIRC the 640 had 1.8l between sump and frame, the 640SMC only 0.9l in the whole thing. Full respeck to Zool for riding one, but I'm not sure I could do it justice or afford the regular rebuilds.
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May 20, 2010 20:12
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Stoic Commie posted:You know, I think with some dedication this bike won't take more than two weekends to get running incredibly (I have a great job right now and plenty of free time) , all things considered I am probably just going to buy it. You are quite the optimist, aren't you? What we're trying to get across to you is that you need to stop assuming these people are giving you the complete story. If those things are the only thing wrong and the seller isn't just trying to rip you off and giving you a line of bull, then, it might not be bad. Experience tells me that you should always assume the worst when buying a bike (well, any vehicle, really) and not the best. Not saying that you shouldn't buy it, but you might as well resign yourself to having it sit needing repair for the first couple months, and that you'll probably put more than you paid into the bike to get it running. If you are okay with this, then it won't be a surprise if you have to, say, buy a whole new front caliper or teardown and rebuild the carbs. Do you have anyone who knows bikes that can go with you to see it? EDIT: By the way, we're not trying to be harsh, but we've been there before. At least I sure have. So excited to buy a bike, and then it turns out to be a huge ordeal to fix things you thought were easy. Just ask Crayvex. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:32 on May 20, 2010 |
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May 20, 2010 20:29
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What happened to biek wiki? Is there another good resource for bike newbies?
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May 20, 2010 21:00
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Saga posted:Good to know! Is this a Sachs/Boge equipped RSV (did I get that right?) or an Ohlins one? Mine is Ohlins. I factor the riding position in there, also. I prefer to be a bit more upright for bumpy riding. I would say the Tuono would be a better bet for what you're planning if you really like those bikes. I haven't ridden one.
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May 20, 2010 21:31
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Doctor Zero posted:You are quite the optimist, aren't you? Just needs new pads! - might mean a brake system rebuild plus new break lines Just needs a new battery! -might mean the charging system might be screwed (could be cheap or super annoying to fix) blah blah blah. Buying a fixer upper will mean fixing extra stuff too. (why is my fuse box smoking?) On an older bike you also have to deal with crap like points. Just be ready for at least one repair job ending in tears.
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May 21, 2010 00:13
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Saga posted:Good to know! Is this a Sachs/Boge equipped RSV (did I get that right?) or an Ohlins one? I thought the only differences between the various 690 engines were just exhausts and FI tuning (and the extra capacity in the Duke R obviously)?
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May 21, 2010 06:23
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Regular rebuilds on the KTM 690? I've got almost 8k trouble free miles on mine. Never heard of anybody having a blown issue, anywhere really. The 690 is not a high-maintenance bike by any means. At least not when you get the the SMC (08+).
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May 21, 2010 08:34
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Spiffness posted:Regular rebuilds on the KTM 690? I was assuming the 690 SMC was similar to the old SMCs - limited oil capacity, relatively fragile and not really up to road use. If not, what's the SMC v. the SM, aside from plastic? e: sorry, on reflection probably being dumb about the 690 motor! Still confused as to why they have a 690SM and an SMC, if it's not the old distinction between competition motor and road bike boat anchor... Saga fucked around with this message at 12:31 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 11:11
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Woah. Really? If this is as good a deal as it looks, I may bail on work early to go get it. http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/1751612708.html 1987 Kawasaki KLR650 A-1, first year of production all original and stock. Was parked 2 years ago and hasn't been ridden since. Currently not running will need a new battery, Carb/fuel system work, new tires and maintence work. A great do it all bike, lots of fun to ride, just don't use it anymore.     I'm going to guess "Ran When Parked" and now has lovely gas in it. I've got a battery I can bring from the SR250, and can bring a gallon of fresh gas, and some seafoam with... Thoughts? This today, an hour away, might need to be trailered home (which I'm not equipped to do), or go with my existing plan of This in a couple of weeks for $1500 + the cost of a Fly and Ride? ($89 airfare + gas + 1 night hotel someplace) Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 16:03 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 15:54
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Make sure the tank isn't rusty, the tripmeter is like 30 miles away from empty, so theres probably not much gas in it. For 2 years that could mean some corrosion. Then again tanks are cheap and that's mad low miles for that price. I paid more for one with twice as many miles. Mine ran though...
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May 21, 2010 16:02
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Jabs posted:my existing plan of This in a couple of weeks for $1500 + the cost of a Fly and Ride? ($89 airfare + gas + 1 night hotel someplace) This. Do this. You'll spend way more then $1000, in addition to time/energy/frustration to get that old bike running again, or you can get a newer one that's been much better maintained and is already all farkled up. Besides, road trip!
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May 21, 2010 16:20
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Jabs posted:Woah. Really? Do the fly and ride, that bike is probably a clusterfuck.
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May 21, 2010 16:30
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Tsaven Nava posted:This. Do this. You'll spend way more then $1000, in addition to time/energy/frustration to get that old bike running again, or you can get a newer one that's been much better maintained and is already all farkled up. Welcome to Saginaw...Texas Welcome to Reno...Texas Welcome to Paradise...Texas Welcome to Bridgeport...Texas Welcome to Loving...Texas Welcome to Paducah...Texas Welcome to Memphis...Texas Welcome to Atlanta...Colorado Welcome to Des Moines...New Mexico etc.
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May 21, 2010 17:42
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Saga posted:I was assuming the 690 SMC was similar to the old SMCs - limited oil capacity, relatively fragile and not really up to road use. If not, what's the SMC v. the SM, aside from plastic? Naw, you are right about the older generations of SMC's. Basically race bikes with plates. With the 690 series of engines KTM took a much more reliable approach. They are pretty bulletproof engines (and bikes). Now it's the SMR's that are the high strung bombs.
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May 21, 2010 18:19
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Spiffness posted:Now it's the SMR's that are the high strung bombs.
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May 22, 2010 02:53
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Jabs posted:Looked at google maps. So many tempting side trips for photo-ops in front of silly 'Welcome to..." signs. Somewhere I've got a photo of me next to the First Baptist Church of Cash. (Texas)
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May 22, 2010 03:34
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So now that I have my '80 CB750F up and running just fine, I feel the need to spend more money. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/1749510924.html There's a local guy with a 72 CL350 scrambler that I covet the gently caress out of, which belongs to his son, who won't sell, his son lives 3 hours away, the bike sits in a field.  I wonder what happened to seize the engine on this one and how much of a terrible idea and moneypit I would be getting into. Cl350's in running-great shape tend to go for $1500-$2k Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 04:57 on May 22, 2010 |
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May 22, 2010 04:17
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Check this out: http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/mcy/1754034529.htmlquote:We have two nice Suzuki motorcycles. Both run but need carbs. $500. each or $1000 for both. Willing to trade for a runnig Chevy truck, turn key boat or???????? Have titles for both bikes. Serious calls ONLY. Thanks for reading. I spoke to him on the phone and he said that he paid $500 each for them and the carbs were busted on the inside and leaking fuel on both of them. They are both 1980s, the black one has 11000 miles and the blue one has 7500. He said they are both in mint condition other than the busted carbs. I would say it is a pretty good deal, but the problem I have run into is the fact that OEM carbs have been discontinued for the 1980 GS550. Where could I find a set of carbs? Bigger question, how difficult is it to install a carburetor? Could it just need a new carb rebuild kit and not a whole new assembly? Stoic Commie fucked around with this message at 19:01 on May 22, 2010 |
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May 22, 2010 18:52
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Carbs for those are fairly common, they should be Mikuni VM22SS. "Busted carbs" hardly means you need to buy new ones, but just refurbish the existing ones and replace all wear parts. They're pretty easy to install, just loosen the airbox mounts, and wiggle them in to place. If you didn't already know about it, this place is a wealth of information for you : https://www.thegsresources.com
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May 22, 2010 19:44
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Zool posted:The 450 and 530, the 690 SMR just has higher spec components than the SM, but not as high as the SMC. Thanks guys, good to know. Am still trying to find the time outside of work to go ride one of the KTMs. One of the nearby Duc dealers has a 1,000 mile used Hypermotard "S" with tons of poo poo on it I'm going to ride as well.
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May 24, 2010 13:50
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Ok I think I've found a bike that might actually not be a bad idea to buy this time  http://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/1756730172.html '79 KZ400 with 14k miles. According to the owner it is in great shape. He said that the previous owner put new pipes and a non-stock airbox on it, which causes to run extremely lean, so the only thing it needs is the carbs rejetted. I'm going to look at it tomorrow, and if carb work is really all it needs, I am 99% sure I am going to buy it. Is this a good idea?
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May 25, 2010 00:56
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Rontalvos posted:So now that I have my '80 CB750F up and running just fine, I feel the need to spend more money. The farther south you go in Cali the more frequent the CL350s show up. There's actually a nice CL350F for $1700 in San Diego right now if you want a teeny tiny four cylinder 350. If you ever stop by #tfr again we can talk CL350s!  I bought mine for $900 and sold it for $1200
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May 25, 2010 02:10
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Stoic Commie posted:Ok I think I've found a bike that might actually not be a bad idea to buy this time Make sure it starts and runs from cold, but yeah, seems pretty reasonable.
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May 25, 2010 04:48
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Z3n posted:Make sure it starts and runs from cold, but yeah, seems pretty reasonable. What if it doesn't? I mean he did say it was running lean and needs to be rejetted. Speaking of which, what kind of jet kit should I get?
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May 25, 2010 18:10
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Stoic Commie posted:What if it doesn't? I mean he did say it was running lean and needs to be rejetted. "Needs to be rejetted" won't stop a bike from at least running, unless the carbs are totally clogged. If you can get it up and running on choke though, that's good enough for starters on a 400$ bike.
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May 25, 2010 18:21
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