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The NonBornKing posted:Alligator clips are where it's at yo. I've got more probe leads than you'd believe. I just use banana plugs, a length of speaker wire, and whatever connector I choose to crimp/solder on to the other end: spade lugs, alligator clips, probes, molex plugs, usb (lol), spring hooks, wire wrap...if I've had to connect a multimeter to it, I've always put a little more effort in than need be.
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May 21, 2010 22:49
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So I got a '05 Ninja 250 recently, and it starts fine, runs fine, and does most things fine except for one little problem. When traveling at high speeds, pulling the clutch in, and letting the RPMs drop, it will go straight past 1K and down to zero and stall. This only happens when going 40+ and I just hold the clutch in. If I engine break, or am riding slow I can hold the clutch all day. Now I'm think carburetor because I don't know poo poo about bikes and any stalling / running issues are usually carb related. I'm assuming that at high speeds there's more air coming through than if it's just idling and somehow that f's it all up. The main question I've got is how likely is it that it's something else before I go mucking with the carb, or paying someone else to do it?
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May 23, 2010 07:32
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Z3n posted:If you look at the left side of the bike, you should see 3 yellow or black wires coming out of the stator cover. Disconnect that connector, and check the voltage with the bike reved to 5k between the wires...ie, check wires 1-2 against each other, 2-3 against each other, and 1-3 against each other. If it's around 40-50v AC on each check, you're good. If it's not, your stator has failed. If your stator checks out good, then you need to check the wiring from the stator to the R/R, if that checks out, replace the R/R and you should be charging again  Click here for the full 800x600 image. There were 0 other colored wires that I saw though, so I'm assuming they're in one of the many black tubes floating around. Here is a shot of that part of my bike, can you point out what exactly I'm looking for? I don't want to start breaking things. .jpg) Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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May 23, 2010 17:26
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Trace black bundle of wires that come out of the left side engine cover...it should be 3 yellow wires.
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May 23, 2010 17:56
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Z3n posted:Trace black bundle of wires that come out of the left side engine cover...it should be 3 yellow wires. This is the left side of the bike. When you say left, do you mean left when sitting on the bike, or looking at it head on? Because I think of left as when sitting on the bike. Do I need to pull this thing out? .jpg) Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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May 23, 2010 18:05
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The Wonder Weapon posted:This is the left side of the bike. When you say left, do you mean left when sitting on the bike, or looking at it head on? Because I think of left as when sitting on the bike. Oh no do NOT pull that thing out, that wire is coming from the stator (charging system) it should lead directly to a plug thats near the fuse box with 3 wires going into it, you just need to pull off the seat, disconnect that plug with the three wires going into it (I believe it's the connector right in front of the fuse box) and check those. If your Voltometer can do a diode test, i'd check the regulator/rectifier, thats how I found out mine was bad. edit: Actually it looks like your F3 is wired differently than my F2, I think that little connector thats mounted on the frame is all you really need to check, the one with the wire coming from the stator infraboy fucked around with this message at 18:18 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 18:16
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Finally got a new (old) choke cable for my CB650. It works fine but I want to lube it anyway. Is WD40 ok? I can go buy some specific cable lube if there is such a thing, but I'd rather use what's to hand. And I haven't posted in here forever, but some of y'all might remember that CP77 I got for a song and was rebuilding. I had been buying up parts and getting ready to put it back together. Then I removed the paper towel in the engine case where the oil cap would go, and found that the threaded rim for the cap was broken, missing chunks in a couple of places  This made me believe I might have to split the cases to ensure there wasn't big ol' pieces of aluminum floating around in there. So, is there a) any way to just drop the oil pan and see if they're hanging out in there, and b)fix the loving broken poo poo without having to replace the entire engine? On that particular bike, the broken part is part and parcel of the engine case and I can't replace it without a whole new case. I can get/post some pictures if that will help.
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May 23, 2010 21:30
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Finally got a new (old) choke cable for my CB650. It works fine but I want to lube it anyway. Is WD40 ok? I can go buy some specific cable lube if there is such a thing, but I'd rather use what's to hand. Are you sure you need to lube your choke cable? I lived my choke cable on my 77 CB750k like an idiot. I didn't know that the friction of the cable is what holds it out. Doh! Now I have to hold it with my hand for the first couple of minutes when it's warming up.
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May 24, 2010 00:18
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Will the APE manual CCT fit an old-style (1988-2007) Ninja 250? The cam chain tensioner that came with the bike is pretty much shot, and is living on borrowed time. The part I'm talking about is the second one on the page, and they only list the 2008-2009 EX250 as being able to fit it: http://zxzone.com/sprockets.html If this one won't work, is there any suitable aftermarket replacement for the stock one?
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May 24, 2010 00:57
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Looking at Bike Bandit's schematics, the older 250 tensioners seem like a different design from the new ones. Can you take a picture of the one on your bike?
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May 24, 2010 01:28
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Uthor posted:Looking at Bike Bandit's schematics, the older 250 tensioners seem like a different design from the new ones. I don't have it off the bike, but it looks more or less the same as the one on ninja250.org's maintenance section: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Image:100_1658.jpg
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May 24, 2010 02:20
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That looks like a completely different design than the one APE's parts replace. Also, the holes are not in the same place, so it won't bolt in. Sorry.
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May 24, 2010 02:35
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Hey all - I've been lurking and searching and have found about 5 references to V-Stars in this entire forum... is there a reason for a lack of VStar love? All of my google-foo has revealed nothing but glowing praise for the VStar Custom and Classic (650 or 1100) and I wants me that 650. The price is totally right and a deal sits nearby, pining for me. Is there a catch I've missed??
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May 24, 2010 04:03
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I used to have a '93 Virago 750, which would later lead to the v-star line, or so I was told. It was a good bike, for what it's worth. My first bike, actually, and I still remembering watching it drive off when I eventually sold it. Kinda sad, seeing the first one go.  Like every other Yamaha I've seen, it was a little cranky about starting when it's even a teeny bit chilly out (I see that even today on my wife's Yamaha which is only a few years old, circa 2005 or so) but beyond that it was fine. Not sure I can say much more about it, though.There's a good forum devoted specifically to v-stars, though. Lots of great info there if you're in search of it.
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May 24, 2010 04:07
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MROUWMPGH posted:is there a reason for a lack of VStar love? There's mostly sportbike riders on here. Not a lot of cruiser guys. Otherwise, I don't know of any reason why you shouldn't get one.
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May 24, 2010 04:21
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sectoidman posted:Will the APE manual CCT fit an old-style (1988-2007) Ninja 250? The cam chain tensioner that came with the bike is pretty much shot, and is living on borrowed time. I've had a lot of good luck taking the tensioner out and lubing it up with high temp grease when they start sounding like they are coming apart. Seems like they are supposed to stay lubed with engine oil but they are too high to get much. I did it on the first valve adjustment on my old 250 and it went from sounding terrible to being totally quiet.
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May 24, 2010 05:25
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Bugdrvr posted:I've had a lot of good luck taking the tensioner out and lubing it up with high temp grease when they start sounding like they are coming apart. Seems like they are supposed to stay lubed with engine oil but they are too high to get much. I did it on the first valve adjustment on my old 250 and it went from sounding terrible to being totally quiet. Yeah, I did that a few days ago and it seemed to help for a little while, but the ticking has been gradually coming back. When I had it off to lube it, it looked like the bearings had been trashed, there was scoring on the pushrod and heat discoloration on the springs. I think I just need a new one, and because of that I hoped I could just replace it with a manual one.
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May 24, 2010 05:59
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Wrong thread. I like to think of myself as the Private Pyle of motorcycling. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 06:19 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 24, 2010 06:01
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So, this is probably something I should know, but what does it mean if there is a ticking noise coming from my engine during warm up? It's a bit distressing.
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May 24, 2010 06:12
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Bad Munki posted:I used to have a '93 Virago 750, which would later lead to the v-star line, or so I was told. It was a good bike, for what it's worth. My first bike, actually, and I still remembering watching it drive off when I eventually sold it. Kinda sad, seeing the first one go. I actually have those forums up in another tab, lol. I really like the look of the bike and it's apparently been voted quite highly as a first bike in quite a few places. I have several friends who have ridden sport bikes for years but I think I'm just a cruiser kind of guy... I am really looking forward to it. @Uthor- I had noticed the mostly-sports discussions/gear etc, but I've been a goon long enough to think that if there's a thing being done somewhere, there's probably a goon or two obsessed with it! I guess I'll preface my posts with "[cruiser]" in the future.
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May 24, 2010 07:43
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MROUWMPGH posted:but I think I'm just a cruiser kind of guy... I am really looking forward to it.
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May 24, 2010 08:00
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AncientTV posted:So, this is probably something I should know, but what does it mean if there is a ticking noise coming from my engine during warm up? It's a bit distressing. Depends on a few things. If it only ever manifests while the bike is warming up, it could just be the cold, thick oil not quite getting the valves, especially if you have a bike that utilizes hydraulic valves (some cruisers do). In that case you might try an oil with a lower cold viscosity rating like perhaps Rotella T 5W-40 and see if that fixes it. It could also be the valves being slightly out of spec on the loose end, in which case you could try a valve adjustment. If the noise is localized to a particular part/side of the engine, it could even be the cam chain tensioner.
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May 24, 2010 09:33
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MROUWMPGH posted:Hey all - I've been lurking and searching and have found about 5 references to V-Stars in this entire forum... is there a reason for a lack of VStar love? Hey I know you said you're getting a deal on that Virago but depending on what you're looking for in a cruiser you might also check out the Suzuki M50 too. Its a cruiser with sportier intentions than most in the 800cc range. I was trying to convince my dad to buy one before I got him to settle on the Yamaha Warrior.
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May 24, 2010 13:41
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niethan posted:You never know what "type of guy" you are until you at least sit down on several different types of bikes. Gotta second this. I thought I was going to get a dual sport first off, and I took my training course on one, and then promptly got the aforementioned virago after trying a few different bikes and didn't regret it one bit. These days, I'm on a vulcan 900 custom, and it's The Bike For Me. My only complaint about the virago was that it was more upright than I wanted to be. I think it's probably just a combination of the bike I had being older ('93) and it being built for shorter folk. I have absolutely no doubt whatsoever they've stretched them out significantly over the course of the v star line, though. I haven't sat on a recent v star, but I bet it basically feels like most every other cruiser out there. I guess that technically means I had two complaints, due to the aforementioned yamaha sub-60-degree-weather starting issue. But the complaint in this post is neither here nor there, since the bike I'm referencing is from 17 years ago. Coredump posted:Hey I know you said you're getting a deal on that Virago but depending on what you're looking for in a cruiser you might also check out the Suzuki M50 too. Its a cruiser with sportier intentions than most in the 800cc range. I was trying to convince my dad to buy one before I got him to settle on the Yamaha Warrior. I don't think he ever said virago, I think that was just me mentioning it. but that aside... I sat on one of those suzuki m50s, and if it's the one I'm thinking of, man they are wiiiiide. Pretty heavy, too, or at least it's built to feel that way. If you're looking for something that might be a little blend of cruiser and sport, another good option is my baby the vulcan 900 custom--not to be confused with the classic, which I'm not crazy about...they're basically the same bike, but with different details. The custom has some nice cruiser lines to it, and feels like one, but it's got a good deal of sport built into it too, mostly in the rear end. Just something to consider. It's been super reliable, too, as the only trouble I've had was when I totally nuked the battery one winter, which was entirely my fault. I've also heard kawasakis have had excellent resale value for a while now, if that's something you need to consider. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:02 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 24, 2010 14:55
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Crayvex posted:Are you sure you need to lube your choke cable? I lived my choke cable on my 77 CB750k like an idiot. I didn't know that the friction of the cable is what holds it out. Doh! Now I have to hold it with my hand for the first couple of minutes when it's warming up. Hmm, ok. I guess I'll put it on and try it. Even though the bike is 28 years old, it only needs choke to start up, if I leave it on for any time after that she stalls out, so holding it wouldn't be too much of a big deal. If'n I don't need to do it, I don't Also, it is snowing right now. In May. gently caress this weather 
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May 24, 2010 15:45
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MROUWMPGH posted:@Uthor- There are cruiser goons, welcome to the club. There is honor in being the odd one out in a forum of goofballs and misfits. My dad has a V-star 650 and he loves it. They're pretty rock solid.
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May 24, 2010 16:15
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sectoidman posted:Depends on a few things. If it only ever manifests while the bike is warming up, it could just be the cold, thick oil not quite getting the valves, especially if you have a bike that utilizes hydraulic valves (some cruisers do). In that case you might try an oil with a lower cold viscosity rating like perhaps Rotella T 5W-40 and see if that fixes it. Yeah, I was leaning towards the valve adjustment I did recently, seeing as it didn't tick before I did the procedure. I did set them on the loose end of spec. Should I go back in and tighten them a hair, or is it not a big deal? It's literally only for 3 or so minutes after I crank it up.
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May 24, 2010 19:31
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AncientTV posted:Yeah, I was leaning towards the valve adjustment I did recently, seeing as it didn't tick before I did the procedure. I did set them on the loose end of spec. Should I go back in and tighten them a hair, or is it not a big deal? It's literally only for 3 or so minutes after I crank it up. Not a big deal. Loose valves won't do anything but rob a little HP.
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May 24, 2010 19:59
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I hope someone can help me... On the highway yesterday, my 500 jerked a few times upon deceleration (all around 6k). A bit later, when I was accelerating quickly on the on-ramp and was at 65 mph, it suddenly decelerated quickly in power, going to like 40ish mph, and one backfire followed. I turned off onto the shoulder, and started off again. All was fine on the way back home, until it jerked and decelerated a bit close to my house. So, whenever the bike is put under strong acceleration/deceleration, or into a turn (once), it does that. Under gentle riding conditions it's mainly fine. If I let off the throttle upon the deceleration, no backfire follows. I inquired on the ex-500.com forum, and replaced my spark plugs (one was too large in gapping). The problem still plagues that ex500. I tightened a loose fuel filter connecting the main petcock tube to the carbs. Nothing. It's apparently a fuel / spark problem. Anyone have any suggestions about what to look at?
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May 25, 2010 02:58
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Check your battery terminals? Could be loose, cutting power to the engine. Do the lights go out when the bike hesitates?
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May 25, 2010 04:46
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Can I use a tire patch kit that has the pencil shaped slugs that go into the hole and bond with the tire on a bike? Turns out my magical low tire is due to a big rear end nail jammed in it. Can I patch it or am I screwed and need a new tire 100%?
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May 25, 2010 07:57
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Anyone have criticisms of Champion spark plugs? Took the M900 to my mechanic today to sort out a popping issue, and he swears they're the worst poo poo ever. A quick google search didn't turn up much against them, so I don't know if I've been missing some magical piece of information all this time or what.
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May 25, 2010 09:42
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Slim Pickens posted:Anyone have criticisms of Champion spark plugs? Took the M900 to my mechanic today to sort out a popping issue, and he swears they're the worst poo poo ever. A quick google search didn't turn up much against them, so I don't know if I've been missing some magical piece of information all this time or what. Don't know anything about Champion plugs, but if you were having issues you really can't go past NGK Iridium plugs.
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May 25, 2010 10:19
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Apparently my tank bag still follows the laws of physics even when I'm breaking the speed limit. I forgot to zip up one of the side pockets and the detachable shoulder strap stuffed in there is now permanently lost somewhere near Square Lake and I75. Oh well.
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May 25, 2010 13:04
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the walkin dude posted:I hope someone can help me... You're losing spark for a bit. I'd check the battery connections, as well as the connections going to the coil(s). Slim Pickens posted:Anyone have criticisms of Champion spark plugs? Took the M900 to my mechanic today to sort out a popping issue, and he swears they're the worst poo poo ever. A quick google search didn't turn up much against them, so I don't know if I've been missing some magical piece of information all this time or what. NGK's are arguably better, but Champions are far from poo poo.
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May 25, 2010 15:33
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Slim Pickens posted:Anyone have criticisms of Champion spark plugs? Took the M900 to my mechanic today to sort out a popping issue, and he swears they're the worst poo poo ever. A quick google search didn't turn up much against them, so I don't know if I've been missing some magical piece of information all this time or what. I've always used NGKs and never had a problem, I stick with them because they work...all it takes is one bad experience for a mechanic to swear off a brand, especially on something as basic as spark plugs. BotchedLobotomy posted:Can I use a tire patch kit that has the pencil shaped slugs that go into the hole and bond with the tire on a bike? Turns out my magical low tire is due to a big rear end nail jammed in it. Can I patch it or am I screwed and need a new tire 100%? How much life is left in the tire? In my experience, those kits are good for getting home but not much else.
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May 25, 2010 16:50
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Its not NEW, but its definitely not worn out either. Should I just get it replaced? Its a GS500 so its not like my tires are huge and expensive, but at the same time UGHNNNNNN
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May 25, 2010 17:27
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If you're not going to get it replaced, I'd get an internal patch done...it might be hard to find a shop that'll do it though.
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May 25, 2010 17:38
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I still need to get my chain and sprockets switched out (I have the parts) so maybe I'll just get it all done in one swoop since I have to take the tire in anyway. 
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May 25, 2010 17:41
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:42 |
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Slim Pickens posted:Anyone have criticisms of Champion spark plugs? Took the M900 to my mechanic today to sort out a popping issue, and he swears they're the worst poo poo ever. A quick google search didn't turn up much against them, so I don't know if I've been missing some magical piece of information all this time or what. Some people on ninja250.org have found that the champion ones listed for the 250 in the crossreference books had the wrong heat range, which lead to some destroyed engines in the past. This lead to a blanket recommendation to avoid them. And honestly, the NGK sparkplugs are still only a few bucks anyway, so why take the risk?
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May 25, 2010 18:29
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