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Hey miata fools--I've DD'd a miata for almost 5 years and I'm looking for another car to use as my all purpose vehicle. Ideally something that can also tow the miata and/or my bike if I want to go to Deal's Gap but that's not a deal breaker. New or used is on the table--mileage is a fairly high priority since I'll probably use it to go to work. Are there crossover vehicles that can tow a miata? That seems like the ideal.
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May 23, 2010 17:06
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ChiliMac posted:Hey miata fools--I've DD'd a miata for almost 5 years and I'm looking for another car to use as my all purpose vehicle. Ideally something that can also tow the miata and/or my bike if I want to go to Deal's Gap but that's not a deal breaker. New or used is on the table--mileage is a fairly high priority since I'll probably use it to go to work. Just make sure that the tow rating is 3000lbs, and you should be alright. You probably won't be able to find a crossover seeing how they're just SUV bodies on car frames.
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May 23, 2010 17:41
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A Magnum R/T with the towing package is good to almost 4k. You should be able to find something. Just keep in mind that you want your tow car to weigh more than what it's towing. Otherwise you get strange "wag the dog" type handling issues.
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May 23, 2010 19:03
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ChiliMac posted:Are there crossover vehicles that can tow a miata? That seems like the ideal. Other than that, I'd just look at a used truck (Ford Ranger, Chevy S-15, etc) or something based on a truck frame for an inexpensive tow vehicle. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:36 on May 23, 2010 |
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May 23, 2010 19:32
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Outback was high on the list but I wasn't sure if there were others out there.
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May 23, 2010 20:01
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DreamOn13 posted:Update time. Turns out that 3-2 shift loosened my flywheel bolts. I drove probably 150 miles or so home from the track after it happened, and another 15-20 to my friends place to see what he thought about it. On the way home from that, all but 1 of the bolts had fallen out, and the clutch assembly was wobbly as gently caress. It keeps getting better and better. I noticed now that I have all the parts to fix the clutch that the input shaft splines are kind of jacked up towards the rear of the transmission. It's like 1/3 of the circumference is now flat and doesn't have the splines at all. Must have been where the TOB seized up and broke the little cover that has the pivot for the clutch fork on it. I put the new disk on there and it slides pretty smoothly on the shaft, though. There's also a bit of play in the input shaft (I'd guess it's ~ 1/16", but I can notice it moving) that I can't recall if it had doing the last clutch job... so I'm assuming the input shaft bearings took a beating from the seized TOB and are now worse off than before. Any opinions on what I should do? I'm guessing I should probably just source a used transmission...
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May 23, 2010 20:55
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Joined the army with a 1993 Miata. Got a pretty good deal. It's in pretty good shape, the only rust is a bit of surface rust - Carfax is clean and showed it was a Virginia car until last year. Comes pre-loaded with Flying Miata swaybars, Koni Yellows, and Ground Control Coilovers. Good condition hardtop, fair soft-top. 97,000 miles. Picked it up for $4,500.  
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May 24, 2010 04:01
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So it looks like I'm going to sell my Miata. It just failed the CA smog sniff test and I just bought an Evo. Since destructo asked for more info, I figured I'd just post it here. My plan is to get it to pass smog completely legit (new cat is on the way). It's as follows: 1995 M-edition, Merlot BEGi S2 turbo kit with GT2554, fully carb legal with EO number Enthuza 2.5" exhaust with extra resonator Hard Dog Hard Core Hard Top Double Diagonal rollbar w/ padding and leather cover Fatcat Motorsports custom valved Bilstein coilovers Racing Beat tubular front swaybar Some Kenwood MP3 headunit and Infinity speakers Color matched hardtop w/ headliner and defroster 135k miles, turbo was installed at 105k Also I have a Megasquirt PNP with boost control and 460cc injectors available, but obviously that setup isn't smog legal. I hope I don't get bent over the table trying to sell this thing. 
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May 24, 2010 06:01
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So my shifter has a ton of play -- when it's in third I can move it left to right as if it were in neutral. There's not as much movement as if it were in neutral, but I'm still able to move it quite a bit. What part do I need to buy to fix this?
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May 24, 2010 07:33
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I bought a Miata last week. I traded in my MkV GTI for a black one-owner 1995 Miata with 100k miles, a 5spd, the popular options package, and service records dating back to the day it was purchased. Hooray for cheap(er) gas and insurance! The car needs a little refreshing: new brakes, new shocks, and new tires since it's currently rockin' the snow tires. I'm ordering new brake rotors and pads tomorrow. I'm probably going to go with Brembo rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I've set a budget of $1500 for maintenance and upgrades. Here's a breakdown of expected costs: -Rotors and pads: $250 -Dunlop Direzza Star Specs: $400 -Suspension bushings: $300 -Koni Sports: $500 -Sway bar: free. Hooray. If you factor in the cost of shipping, tire mounting and dismounting, and an alignment... well, so much for my budget. It's going to be a mean little autocross car when it's done though. I'm in love with this car already because it's the exact opposite of the GTI.
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May 24, 2010 09:30
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Wait a minute... you're not a fag.  I just turned over 180k in my Miata. I think I'm going to try to replace the radiator and associated hoses before I goto my next track event.
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May 24, 2010 10:41
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goatse guy posted:I bought a Miata last week. I traded in my MkV GTI for a black one-owner 1995 Miata with 100k miles, a 5spd, the popular options package, and service records dating back to the day it was purchased. I just sprung for the Direzza Star Specs. I was going to get a set of Kosei K1 Racing 15" wheels with the 205/55-15s, but decided I couldn't afford that so just got the tires in 195/60-14 to put on the stock wheels. Both I and the previous owner are pretty tall guys - luckily for me, he did a foamectomy. Unluckily for me, he cut the back foam in such a way that it left a huge ridge of material that goes right across my shoulder blades. And I'm driving it 12 hours tomorrow. :/
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May 24, 2010 15:03
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Phone posted:Wait a minute... you're not a fag. Yes, but I do fit into the other half of the Miata stereotype.  If I can ever find the R package bits, I'm going to do an R package conversion on the car. I think the front lip is still available from Mazdaspeed because it's used for Spec Miata, but the rear lip and spoiler are made from unobtanium. Does anyone have a Mazdaspeed account? I'd like to know how much the front lip costs. I also want to move the ugly front license plate bracket so it's not in the middle of my bumper. What's the best way to mount it so that it's out of the way but doesn't restrict airflow?
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May 24, 2010 16:08
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goatse guy posted:Yes, but I do fit into the other half of the Miata stereotype. Of being fabulous? For the front lip, you're better off buying it from Rosenthal; Mazdaspeed has it for $178.
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May 24, 2010 17:57
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goatse guy posted:Yes, but I do fit into the other half of the Miata stereotype. Murdering Twinks?
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May 24, 2010 19:56
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goatse guy posted:The car needs a little refreshing: new brakes, new shocks, and new tires since it's currently rockin' the snow tires. I'm ordering new brake rotors and pads tomorrow. I'm probably going to go with Brembo rotors and Hawk HPS pads.
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May 24, 2010 19:57
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goatse guy posted:-Suspension bushings: $300 You can get these for $210ish shipped on ebay, just be careful before installing them... make SURE that you have all the right parts (check the numbers on the bushings and measure the sleeves with a caliper). My miata has been on jacks for a week now waiting for the right sleeves to arrive from energy suspension. Also, why are you doing the bushings? Mine were in great shape ('92, 84k miles), and it's been enough of a pain so far that I really hate myself for doing it. I literaly gave myself 2nd degree burns when a bit of melted rubber flew onto my arm between my gloves and sweater. I vote save your money and spend it on an extra trackday..
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May 24, 2010 21:42
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Blaise posted:Also, why are you doing the bushings? Mine were in great shape ('92, 84k miles), and it's been enough of a pain so far that I really hate myself for doing it. I literaly gave myself 2nd degree burns when a bit of melted rubber flew onto my arm between my gloves and sweater. I vote save your money and spend it on an extra trackday.. Get the HF ball joint 3 in 1 tool for this. I did the whole job with that and a 1/2" ratchet. Didn't need any heat or air (Air would have made it much faster though. A bench vise makes putting the new bushings in super easy. I also went ahead and stuck in zerk fittings while I had everything apart, totally worth it. I think I have a link on the last page to summit for a kit that has all the fittings you'd need. I got mine from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Mazda+MX5+1997. Count all your parts, Energy is notorious for putting in the wrong parts. It came to $170 for the control arm bushings. I didn't do diff(  ) or sway bar(aftermarket).
FatCow fucked around with this message at 22:28 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 24, 2010 22:25
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I bought a 1990 Eunos Roadster 1.6 the other day, V-Special edition in British Racing Green  Got a few problems to sort out, the electric windows don't work properly (passenger side comes down slowly, drivers side doesn't work at all), the hood could do with being replaced, and there's some rust spots to the sides of the door kickplates, but other than that it's sound. Apart from the alternator, which, as I discovered the other night, is knackered. I had to drive back home 10 miles along dark country roads with no lights or the car kangarood and threatened to cut out. So, I've got a recon alternator on order that should be with me in a few days. I'm a novice mechanic but I'd like to have a crack at it. I can see the alternator in the engine bay but can't get to it 'cos there's loads of hoses in the way. The workshop manual I have doesn't tell me how to get those off and I'm loathe to just take poo poo off without knowing what they are first - presumably I just unclip all the hoses, remember where they go and then move them out of the way? Anything else that needs to be shifted? Obligatory pic, albeit from an iPhone so not great. 
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May 24, 2010 23:45
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'grats Gazchap! I imagine other jobs like the water pump might explain those details regarding the alternator. Your windows are more than likely a corroded switch where the armrest is, shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes to disassemble (just need a phillips screwdriver) and to clean with steel wool.
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May 25, 2010 00:38
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Yep, in fact I just did my electric window switch today when my driver-side window stopped going up (and I only have a car port). I actually just used a nail file and a paper towel. I didn't fully clean it (apparently WD-40 or similar will help but I didn't have any) but I got instant results so it was good for a free fix. Apparently a new switch cost around $80 here. Here's what mine looked like before cleaning it:  Click here for the full 1306x1611 image.
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May 25, 2010 09:40
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And I thought I knew a lot about miatas.... I'm still shopping for a NA via craigslist, having to wade through awesome posts that say nothing but "BLUE CONVERTABLE. HAS CD PLAYER. NO EMAILS. CALL ME". I also have to spot the packages and special editions just by looking at grainy pictures and vague descriptions, which I need help with- correct me on anything I'm getting wrong: Leather Seats: Indicative of nothing performance wise(?) Wooden shift knob and parking brake handle: Special Edition, LSD, better wheels etc... M edition badge next to the front wheel well is, obviously, M edition- is there anything else directly indicative of it? The little rear lip spoiler is the R, but sometimes I see a spoiler that is actually off the car with the three posts, I'm assuming that's just aftermarket? Also is the little spoiler only on the R package? And as far as wheels go, is it generally BBS>Daisy>whatever>steelies? But yeah gently caress everything about craigslist except the prices.
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May 26, 2010 05:23
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ http://www.miata.net/faq/features.html http://www.miata.net/faq/mfield.html http://www.miata.net/faq/miatachanges.html Wanna buy a turbo '95 M edition? 
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May 26, 2010 05:44
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Piano posted:And as far as wheels go, is it generally BBS>Daisy>whatever>steelies? aftermarket wheels will fit from somewhere in between the far left and the far right of that list.
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May 26, 2010 06:58
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I'd say that the 1.8L 7-spokes are better than the BBS ones since they don't bend when you look at them wrong. Yes, the BBS ones are lighter, but they're also super soft. As for looking to see what a car has, mnet has a decent chart that will tell you what models have what features. What exactly are you looking for in an NA? I can tell you right now that power mirrors = LSD in 1994 cars.
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May 26, 2010 11:07
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Hog Obituary posted:
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May 26, 2010 14:00
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Nocheez posted:So how much are you asking for it? I'm in North Carolina so I don't really have to worry about emissions, just a check-engine light. I'll certainly be watching this auction carefully: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Race...=item3efff8fd9e e: I suppose I should start considering the possibility of a partial part-out of my suspension, MegaSquirt, etc... :/ Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 16:35 on May 26, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 16:18
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Hog Obituary posted:Haha, I'm afraid to say just yet. To the right buyer it'll easily be worth over $7500, but I think finding that person is going to take time. I'm in the same boat as you. I've got a 92 Supra that's worth $7500 to the right buyer, but I'm just holding on until someone ponies up the cash. I was hoping a turbo Miata was cheaper (around $4-5K) to justify the "downgrade" but it looks like I'll just bank it and keep my eyes open for a deal.
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May 26, 2010 17:14
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Heh, well that one in the ebay auction certainly *looks* nice.
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May 26, 2010 17:39
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Hog Obituary posted:Heh, well that one in the ebay auction certainly *looks* nice.
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May 26, 2010 17:49
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Heh, I expected to hear as much. The way I figure it, the fact that it's a 95M, has a good rollbar, Bell turbo kit, and complete FatCat coilovers should be worth something to somebody.
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May 26, 2010 18:29
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goatse guy posted:
There's a swing-up bracket $25ish that seems to work. Air just pushes it out of the way at speed. Search Miata.net for swing up license plate bracket. There's a far more expensive electrically controlled one if you want to get crazy.
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May 26, 2010 19:33
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Hog Obituary posted:Heh, I expected to hear as much. The way I figure it, the fact that it's a 95M, has a good rollbar, Bell turbo kit, and complete FatCat coilovers should be worth something to somebody. Yeah, mods really don't add value to your car at all. Quite seriously, on the high end of things 6k, but more realistically you'll wind up getting between 4-5k.
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May 26, 2010 19:46
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Phone posted:Yeah, mods really don't add value to your car at all. Quite seriously, on the high end of things 6k, but more realistically you'll wind up getting between 4-5k.
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May 26, 2010 20:44
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Hog Obituary posted:It's true that that's common wisdom, and for the most part I accepted that when I started modifying the car, but I think each case is individual. Mods add value to a buyer who was planning to do similar modifications themselves. It's my understanding that turbo Miatas routinely go for more than stock ones. Depends on the turbo kit, the quality of the install, the miles, the boost that's being/been run, and a lot of factors. If it's in great condition, it might be worth more, but if it's not, it's worth less in my opinion. I think with Miatas, suspension mods might add value, but engine mods don't, as far as I'm concerned. :/
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May 26, 2010 22:07
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Piano posted:And I thought I knew a lot about miatas.... It depends on the year. Look at the charts on miata.net that the guy after you posted. For example, my 94's got leather seats, and it's got the Torsen LSD and the nice alloy wheels.
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May 26, 2010 23:55
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Long shot, but does anyone have a 6 speed transmission for sale in Florida? Just looking for the transmission, already have a differential.
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May 28, 2010 00:09
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Bollocks. Went for a spirited drive last night, and pulled over when I heard a rattle then a buzz. Whilst I was scratching my head (almost all my heatshields have been removed at various points so i'm stumped) I noticed it was leaking coolant too. The coolant's coming down the front face of the engine just underneath the water pump. Damnit. The current waterpump's only about four months old. Perhaps it was duff, or has a duff seal. I'll have to take the belts off and see - perhaps the buzz/rumble is the waterpump bearings actually. It has been suggested that my coolant's looking fairly rusty so it could be a freeze plug instead? Is there one round the front?
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May 28, 2010 22:19
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PancakeTransmission posted:Yep, in fact I just did my electric window switch today when my driver-side window stopped going up (and I only have a car port). I actually just used a nail file and a paper towel. I didn't fully clean it (apparently WD-40 or similar will help but I didn't have any) but I got instant results so it was good for a free fix. Apparently a new switch cost around $80 here. Just thought I'd let you know that I just had to clean the contacts in the switch (as you suggested) and now the electric windows work fine  They still go down and up a bit slowly, so I think perhaps some grease on the mechanisms might be an idea, but for now it'll do Cheers.
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Jun 7, 2010 12:51
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meltie posted:The coolant's coming down the front face of the engine just underneath the water pump. Damnit. The current waterpump's only about four months old. Perhaps it was duff, or has a duff seal. I'll have to take the belts off and see - perhaps the buzz/rumble is the waterpump bearings actually. Waded in and replaced the waterpump and gaskets. Gasket prep is nice stuff. Sorted now. The angry buzz was the starter bracket - the engine mount bolt had backed out and the bracket was lodged against the block. In other news - i've had a 1.8 Torsen fitted 
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Jun 7, 2010 17:53
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