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2ndclasscitizen posted:Don't know anything about Champion plugs, but if you were having issues you really can't go past NGK Iridium plugs. I don't see the point in running iridium plugs on any bike where it isn't the OEM recommended plug. Just run whatever the maker recommends stock unless you've got some weird mods going on. There are a few bikes that plat/iridium plugs but it's mainly because they are a bitch to change so it's to get the longer intervals on them. I'd assume a twin has easy to access plugs so just run whatever is OEM.
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May 25, 2010 18:30
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sectoidman posted:Some people on ninja250.org have found that the champion ones listed for the 250 in the crossreference books had the wrong heat range, which lead to some destroyed engines in the past. This lead to a blanket recommendation to avoid them. And honestly, the NGK sparkplugs are still only a few bucks anyway, so why take the risk? If you're destroying engines by running plugs with the wrong heat range, you've got other bigger issues that are destroying motors.
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May 25, 2010 18:46
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Phat_Albert posted:If you're destroying engines by running plugs with the wrong heat range, you've got other bigger issues that are destroying motors. The plugs being the wrong heat range isn't what destroys the engine. The plugs getting so hot that the electrode melts and other pieces start breaking off and traveling through the combustion chamber, destroying poo poo in the process, is the problem.  Most people who have used the Champion plugs in their 250 just experience the bike running like poo poo or get stranded on the side of the road when the electrode melts.
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May 25, 2010 19:31
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I picked up a 1986 TLR200 last week that I can't get to run very good. It uses the same engine as the XR200 and ATC three wheeler. It has an aftermarket Mikuni VM20 carburetor on it. When I originally picked it up it idled like poo poo and would kill if you gave it more than 1/4 throttle or so, was also fouling out plugs pretty quick. I pulled the carb and cleaned it, adjusted the clip on the needle to full lean and now it idles pretty good and doesn't start cutting out until 3/4 throttle or on quick throttle inputs. Now I'm not sure what to look at. I adjusted the air screw from 1 turn out to almost falling out and it had no effect. I have one more spare plug that I think I will throw in it tonight and see what it shows, haven't checked the plug since I got it running enough to ride around the yard.
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May 26, 2010 14:49
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I may have mentioned this problem in the past amongst other issues I was having with my bike (nearly all resolved as of now). However, I'd like to address it more specifically now. I have a '71 Honda CB350. The indicator lights work but they don't flash. I'm still fairly new to riding. So, I'd rather not have to worry about manually flipping my turn signal on and off while I'm decelerating/downshifting/checking mirrors/etc/etc. It's one more thing to worry about, it's dangerous, and it's really the only thing that's keeping me from completely enjoying my rides at this point.  So, what would be the first step in fixing this issue? Checking the wiring to see if it's corroded? If it isn't, what would be the next step? Replacing the signals entirely? If so, any suggestions on where to buy the parts I would need? I have very minimal experience working on my bike, but I follow directions well and I'm not mechanically retarded by any means.
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May 26, 2010 20:19
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M.C. McMic posted:blinkers don't blink 1) Switch blinker on, rev engine - if it starts blinking, voltage around idle is too low. probably poor battery. 2) Check that absolutely all lamps are working - if one is burnt out the circuit does not pull enough amp to trip the flasher relay (most likely problem), replace lamp, ride happy 3) Inspect wiring at lamps and around flasher relay for corrosion, breakage etc. This would normally mean no flash at all instead of constant light. 4) and 5) involve testing the circuits and the relay. We'll cross that bridge when we get there as it involves some circuit trickery and a multimeter. 6) Replace old worn relay with a solid state that costs $15 and will outlast your bike, yourself and your community. http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm
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May 26, 2010 20:31
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How can I find out what years of a part will work for my bike? I need a regulator for a '98 Honda CBR 600, and I'm wondering if some of the '01 stuff will work. Thanks! edit: For instance, this guy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REGU...#ht_2721wt_1165 It's the right part, but there is no year listed, so I'm not sure if it's compatible. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 27, 2010 |
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May 26, 2010 23:20
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Hopefully one of you Kawasaki nuts can help with this. I recently got offered by a client of mine to purchase his KLX250 for only $800. however the bike is not running. Apparently, on the top of the head of these bikes, there're two C-clamps that hold everything down and one of the screws stripped out on the head. He says this is the only thing which needs to be replaced. He also indicated that this can't be replaced without replacing the head of the bike. I know absolutely nothing about klx250's or dirt bikes in general, so I'm wondering if any of you know what he's talking about. Or, at the very least, could point me in the right direction as to what I should look for on these bikes. As soon as I know more such as year, mods done, etc, I'll post for more help. I do know it's a 4-stroke though, if that helps at all.
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May 29, 2010 02:24
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6th Gen VFR owners, sigtrap etc. How the hell do I adjsut preload. I mean I have the spanner, and have access to the adjsutment ramp ring. But I'll be damned if I can turn the fucker. I even took a long ratchet extension, placed it against one of the metal parts that the spanner hooks to, then hit it with the mallet several times but this thing won't budge.
CSi-NA-EJ7 fucked around with this message at 04:14 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 04:12
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:6th Gen VFR owners, sigtrap etc. How the hell do I adjsut preload. I mean I have the spanner, and have access to the adjsutment ramp ring. But I'll be damned if I can turn the fucker. I even took a long ratchet extension, placed it against one of the metal parts that the spanner hooks to, then hit it with the mallet several times but this thing won't budge. Is the bike on the centerstand? It's easier to turn the ring if the suspension is as unloaded as possible.
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May 29, 2010 06:09
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The Gix is due for an oil change, so a question: Full synth? Yay or nay? Currently using Motul 5100, worth stumping for the 7100 full synth stuff?
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May 29, 2010 06:42
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2ndclasscitizen posted:The Gix is due for an oil change, so a question: Full synth? Yay or nay? Currently using Motul 5100, worth stumping for the 7100 full synth stuff? I use full synth diesel oil I buy at Wal-Mart... Shell Rotella T. Seems well recommended around here.
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May 29, 2010 07:12
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Nipples, what year is the bike? He probably stripped one of the cam caps, which is a bitch of a thing to have happen. Could be with it, I bet you could drill it out and helicoil it, but would need more details about the bike to know if that's worthwhile or not. 2ndclass, I'd stick with the 5100 myself, unless you're trying to stretch oil changes or something.
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May 29, 2010 07:33
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Gnomad posted:Is the bike on the centerstand? It's easier to turn the ring if the suspension is as unloaded as possible. Yes up on the centerstand, I love my centerstand 
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May 29, 2010 07:34
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Z3n posted:Nipples, what year is the bike? He probably stripped one of the cam caps, which is a bitch of a thing to have happen. Could be with it, I bet you could drill it out and helicoil it, but would need more details about the bike to know if that's worthwhile or not. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking is what happened. I'm going to try to get pictures over the next couple days along with more details. Here's hoping, oh my.
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May 29, 2010 09:07
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Tell me whats wrong with my biiiike. It's red and it doesn't run.  You can follow the story more closely in my thread (I won't plug, if you care, you'll look it up) but all the relevant info should be here. The bike is a 1991 Suzuki GSX600f. It ran before but carbs would not synch. Now, valves are done, I have a new clutch and gas cable, new spark plugs, the airbox has been put on properly (something which has not been so for many years I can only assume, because the fairing needs to come off to do this). Normally when you start it up, it runs at 3-4k rpm for a few moments, then the rpms start to climb slowly so you can let off the choke and eventually it puttered about calmly at about 1100rpm. I later discovered the manual specified 1750 as the proper idle speed but it had never posed a problem. NOW, however, I start it up, it runs at 3-4k RPM for a few minutes and at about the time when it ought to start speeding up, it slows down instead, sound becomes "off" and eventually just dies. If you let off the choke at all, it dies. Now, the sensible thing to assume would be that: 1.) When I was trying to synch the carbs pre-valvejob, I managed to adjust them so that the mixture is now apocalyptically wrong and it's drowning my poor engine. This does not ring true because I rode post-synch and pre-valvejob and it was fine. 2.) I botched the valve job. Although it did seem to me that the valvetrain sounded a bit louder than before, I'm sure it is just perfectly healthy paranoia and the valves are fine. I am positive I adjusted them right, but of course there is a possibility that I messed something else up in the process. There are new gaskets on the valve cover and oil lines. All accessible bolts are up to 14Nm spec and all inaccessible are as close to that as I could guess with my hand. No high-temp silicone was used in the assembly so I suppose there could be an air leak if the gasket is (-s are) faulty. 3.) The six month old gas has clogged my carbs. Clean them. Again, it was fine one month ago. True, the carbs came off at some point, meaning they may have been tilted so grime from the bowls could slosh about and go where it shouldn't. 4.) Magic. I'm going back tomorrow. What should I check? Edit: That stupid of a question, huh? Oh well. Edit2: Fixed. Using stubbornness. Duuk fucked around with this message at 18:19 on May 30, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 19:32
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I just got done with a 2200 mile road trip on my '84 Honda VF700. About halfway through the clutch lost some resistance and when I shifted I'd have to pull the lever all the way to the grip. I finished the trip and parked the bike and three days later when I tried to start it up there was zero resistance on the clutch lever and as a result the clutch wouldn't disengage and the bike would stall out. I bled the line and tried to repressurize the clutch line by clamping the line three inches below the master then pumping the lever to build up pressure before releasing the clamp. This helped build up a little pressure but when I tried to shift the clutch would still stay engaged even with the lever depressed all the way. Should I continue to try to pressurize the line? I spent a good amount of time trying to build up pressure with little to no result. Is it possible that there's a gasket or diaphragm in my master that is releasing any pressure built up in the line? Edit: Nevermind, figured it out. I wasn't depressing the clutch enough when pressurizing. IM DAY DAY IRL fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 31, 2010 00:39
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Question for Ninja 636 owners. I've been trying to remove the front sprocket (engine sprocket) on my Ninja and it is unbelievably tight. I've already broken a board I put across the rear wheel trying to break it loose, regular use of PB Blaster and am waiting on getting my Dad's torch to heat it up. I've read that the nut on there is NOT reverse thread, but really want to double check that that is the case. I'm fearing I'm going to break the whole shaft off of the engine at this point. 
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May 31, 2010 02:22
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Question regarding my first bike, a 1979 Kawasaki KZ400 that I just bought: The owner before the PO replaced the airbox with a pair of pods, as well as an aftermarket exhaust. However, he did not do anything to the carbs, therefore the bike is running very lean. I have no problem starting the bike if I follow the procedure of turning the fuel to prime, choke on, idle up. My question is, to solve the problem of running lean, should I buy a stock airbox and remove the pods, or rejet the carbs (It uses 2 x Keihin CV32)? I don't actually know how to rejet a carb to solve the specific problem of running lean, other than that I would need to go up a size or two in the main jet? This is my first bike, I know next to nothing  Thanks for any advice. Stoic Commie fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 31, 2010 |
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May 31, 2010 02:52
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Dad bought my little guy a honda trail 50 that has a rusted gas tank. This will be our second "brute" and the first one is fun as hell. My brother and I took the rusted one out for a ride and it ran pretty good and we were racing around like no other. We would like to fix the gas tank on it and I have looked at the POR and Kreme stuff but is there a DIY method I can do? I have read you can use a mixture of Petroleum jelly and water and then a POR-15 mix again.
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May 31, 2010 02:58
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stgdz posted:Dad bought my little guy a honda trail 50 that has a rusted gas tank. This will be our second "brute" and the first one is fun as hell. My brother and I took the rusted one out for a ride and it ran pretty good and we were racing around like no other. I just removed rust from my tank and used a product called Red Kote (locally available from auto parts stores). I recommend this, but do not recommend using anything like acid to eat the rust, it is a miserable pain. Instead, check the thread below. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3307016
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May 31, 2010 03:17
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Gnaghi posted:Question for Ninja 636 owners. Have you tried an impact wrench yet?
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May 31, 2010 04:38
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sectoidman posted:Have you tried an impact wrench yet? Don't have one...or the air compressor to go with it. A lot of people on Kawi forums say it "comes right off with one" too, but I really don't want to spend $300+ to get this one nut off. I'd just leave it on before that happens.
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May 31, 2010 04:43
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Gnaghi posted:Don't have one...or the air compressor to go with it. A lot of people on Kawi forums say it "comes right off with one" too, but I really don't want to spend $300+ to get this one nut off. I'd just leave it on before that happens. What about one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
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May 31, 2010 05:27
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A hand impact wrench might do it, might not. The real solution is an electric impact wrench, about 30-70$ depending on where you get it. I've got a Kawasaki one and it's the biggest lifesaver for stuck/high torque bolts. I use it all the time on swingarm/suspension/drivetrain bolts. Stoic, I'd just go back to the stock airbox.
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May 31, 2010 05:54
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Stoic Commie posted:My question is, to solve the problem of running lean, should I buy a stock airbox and remove the pods, or rejet the carbs (It uses 2 x Keihin CV32)? I don't actually know how to rejet a carb to solve the specific problem of running lean, other than that I would need to go up a size or two in the main jet? This is my first bike, I know next to nothing You'll need to go up a on the mains and pilot. Best bet since its your first bike is to find a stock airbox and go with that. Jetting is a pain in the rear end and if you don't know what you're doing you aren't going to get the results you want. There will be lots of things to fix on a 79' KZ once you start riding it, messing around with jetting will be the last thing you want to do.
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May 31, 2010 06:17
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Uthor posted:Hey, at least I know where the problem is. I was worried I wouldn't find anything, leaving me with a bike that doesn't run for reasons I can't figure out. So I've got the bike that ate the spark plug a few weeks ago. Next time I get the chance, I'm going to take the head off and see if there's any damage to the piston. Also, I'm going to take the carbs off to see if there's anything gunked up. So, my question, is what do I need to buy to rebuild a carb? It's a 2007 Vulcan 500 (Kawasaki 500 cc parallel twin engine with dual carbs). This is the only thing I've found, but it seems to be for one cylinder and I don't know if I need all the parts included: http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Kawasaki-EN500-EX500-ZX600-Ninja-Carb-Kit?sc=2&category=126
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May 31, 2010 07:18
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Gnaghi posted:Don't have one...or the air compressor to go with it. A lot of people on Kawi forums say it "comes right off with one" too, but I really don't want to spend $300+ to get this one nut off. I'd just leave it on before that happens. get this http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html usually you can find a 20% off coupon in their weekly flyer
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May 31, 2010 07:35
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sectoidman posted:What about one of these: Wow I never saw one of those before. I think, with a breaker bar and jack handle extension, I'm up in the 400ft-lbs range though. I'll try the torch and then go from there, maybe get an electric one.
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May 31, 2010 18:40
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Gnaghi posted:Wow I never saw one of those before. I think, with a breaker bar and jack handle extension, I'm up in the 400ft-lbs range though. I'll try the torch and then go from there, maybe get an electric one. It's not jsut about raw torque though...the hit of an impact driver is what's key. The electric impact driver is well worth it because a bike doesn't have many bolts it won't get off.
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May 31, 2010 19:39
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Holding the socket in place with one hand, and then wacking the ratchet handle with a ball peen has saved me from having to drag out the compressor and hose a few times when a bolt was stuck.
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Jun 1, 2010 03:07
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What is the opinion around here on throttle locks? I've been looking into getting one for my Phantom, as I'm planning on doing some road trips soon and I've figured out my carpal-tunnel addled wrist is not up to the task of more than 70 or 80 miles at a stretch and that won't work for what I have planned. I like the idea and function of the BrakeAway, but goddamn is it expensive. Does anyone make a similar unit that is actually reasonably priced? The Crampbuster doesn't seem like a very good idea for me, as I have large hands that pretty much engulf the grips as it is, and I don't think it'd be a great idea to try and use one in towns. The only other viable option I've come across is the Vista Universal cruise control, which seems like a fine solution, and comes well recommended. My only issues with it are that it seems kinda bulky compared to the BrakeAway and that it is quite cheap (I believe you largely get what you pay for). I just don't want to have to replace it every year or so, even if it is cheap. Thoughts?
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Jun 1, 2010 03:29
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Pvt. Public posted:What is the opinion around here on throttle locks? I've been looking into getting one for my Phantom, as I'm planning on doing some road trips soon and I've figured out my carpal-tunnel addled wrist is not up to the task of more than 70 or 80 miles at a stretch and that won't work for what I have planned. I bought a Throttlemeister awhile back and it's a well made piece of kit. It definitely makes longer rides less tiring because you can move your right hand a bit. Even on "full" lock you can twist the grip easily enough if you needed to close the throttle for some reason. I found myself just putting tension on it so it just took a little pressure off the throttle return spring. It'd close slowly like this but just that little bit of help makes a big difference. I ended up taking it off the bike because I've been doing a fair amount of trackdays though, and it (obviously) won't pass tech. I missed it on the nearly 800 mile ride I took sat/sun
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Jun 1, 2010 03:42
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needknees posted:I bought a Throttlemeister awhile back and it's a well made piece of kit. It definitely makes longer rides less tiring because you can move your right hand a bit. Even on "full" lock you can twist the grip easily enough if you needed to close the throttle for some reason. I found myself just putting tension on it so it just took a little pressure off the throttle return spring. It'd close slowly like this but just that little bit of help makes a big difference. Yeah, I too have had excellent experience with the thottlemeister. It has a bit that sticks out out past the grip(maybe an inch or two), so if you are some sort of narcissistic rear end in a top hat, you may not like it, but it's loving great kit and I highly recommend it.
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Jun 1, 2010 04:03
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Ok so right now if I take my hands off the bars at say, 40mph or below, the front end has headshake that increases in severity over the course of a second or two. It gets bad enough so that if I don't grab the bars I know the bike is going to go down. I'm also feeling instability in corners -- it's really messing with my ability to ride twisties. What should I try doing to fix this?
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Jun 2, 2010 05:51
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-Inu- posted:Ok so right now if I take my hands off the bars at say, 40mph or below, the front end has headshake that increases in severity over the course of a second or two. It gets bad enough so that if I don't grab the bars I know the bike is going to go down. I'm also feeling instability in corners -- it's really messing with my ability to ride twisties. What should I try doing to fix this? Worn or loose steering head bearings are the most likely culprit if the front end feels inconsistent and you're getting instability. Any clunks from the front end, e.g. braking reasonably hard up to a dead stop? Other potential causes - bent bike (presumably you'd have noticed the impact!), rear wheel way out of alignment (check the chain adjustment marks on the swingarm - if they're roughly in the same place on each side, it's not the cause), badly squared off tyre, most likely at the back. e: or you only have 15psi in the rear boot and haven't noticed... 
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Jun 2, 2010 11:42
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I bought a 1985 Honda CB450 a little over a month ago and it runs beautifully except for two small problems: 1. When it is idling (regardless of how long it has been running) it seems to idle somewhat low. It'll idle fine and then suddenly lose the RPMs for a second and cause the bike to quake, and then immediately return to idling at an appropriate RPM. It's never stalled and it doesn't seem to affect the bike in any other way, though. Is this something I should worry about? 2. The choke knob won't actually stay out when I pull it out. It seems to slowly slip back to the "closed" position with the vibrations of the bike idling. Basically this just means that I have to sit there like a goof for 1-2 minutes and hold the choke knob out until the bike is warm. Is there anything in particular that could cause this / any way to fix it? EDIT: This is my first bike, so I'm sorry if these are stupid questions.
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Jun 2, 2010 15:36
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Pvt. Public posted:What is the opinion around here on throttle locks? I've been looking into getting one for my Phantom, as I'm planning on doing some road trips soon and I've figured out my carpal-tunnel addled wrist is not up to the task of more than 70 or 80 miles at a stretch and that won't work for what I have planned. Someone put a Vista Cruise on my bike and I absolutely love the poo poo out of it. It's really convenient. Just flip the lever with my thumb, and viola! 
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Jun 2, 2010 15:52
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Agrias120 posted:I bought a 1985 Honda CB450 a little over a month ago and it runs beautifully except for two small problems: How much gas have you run through the tank? I'd give a bit of seafoam a shot, it can usually clear up intermittant idle issues like that. You can also turn up the idle a little bit and see if that fixes it. Besides that, has basic maintenance been done? Stuff like spark plugs? How's the battery? As the bike ages and the choke is used, sometimes they'll start to slip past their "groove" that they sit in when they're fully out...fixing it is going to depend on your bike, maybe nero or one of the other guys who uses older carbs will have an easy solution. I'm also tossing in my vote for the Vista Cruise...cheap and easy to install and use.
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Jun 2, 2010 16:30
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Z3n posted:How much gas have you run through the tank? I'd give a bit of seafoam a shot, it can usually clear up intermittant idle issues like that. You can also turn up the idle a little bit and see if that fixes it. Besides that, has basic maintenance been done? Stuff like spark plugs? How's the battery? Thanks for the quick response, Z3n. I've run about 3 tanks of gas through the bike since I bought it, and none of them have had seafoam in it. I've been meaning to pick some up, but I'll go do that this afternoon. Basic maintenance has been kept up on the bike and it has a brand new battery (I'm not sure about the plugs). I'll try the seafoam and see if that fixes it, and if not move from there.
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Jun 2, 2010 16:36
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