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Agrias120 posted:Thanks for the quick response, Z3n. I've run about 3 tanks of gas through the bike since I bought it, and none of them have had seafoam in it. I've been meaning to pick some up, but I'll go do that this afternoon. Basic maintenance has been kept up on the bike and it has a brand new battery (I'm not sure about the plugs). I'll try the seafoam and see if that fixes it, and if not move from there. Cool, keep us posted on it.
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Jun 2, 2010 17:08
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Okay, finally figured my CBR F2 out. I was having problems of it being very hard to start and seemingly starving for fuel when I finally got it started. Well, it wasn't the carbs, and it wasn't electrical. It was my valves. Seven of my eight intake valves were so tight as to be immeasurable. I had a shop adjust them, and because they were ALL out of spec, it cost me a bit of money, but now the bike runs perfectly and starts easily when cold. I should have known it was a compression problem because it was only turning over at full throttle, which coincidentally is where compression is the highest.
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Jun 2, 2010 22:39
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Saga posted:Worn or loose steering head bearings are the most likely culprit if the front end feels inconsistent and you're getting instability. Any clunks from the front end, e.g. braking reasonably hard up to a dead stop?
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Jun 3, 2010 02:01
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-Inu- posted:I'll have to check the steering head bearings, thanks. Tire's aligned (thank you $7 motionpro tool!) at 28/32 and not old enough to be squared off sooo! Seems like the most likely thing. They're easy enough to adjust with a punch (careful now!) or the approved tool - see Haynes/Clymer manual for details.
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Jun 3, 2010 08:48
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Saga posted:Seems like the most likely thing. They're easy enough to adjust with a punch (careful now!) or the approved tool - see Haynes/Clymer manual for details. Speaking of approved tools for head bearings...has anyone ever seen an adjustable preload spanner? My suspension guy has one and holy gently caress do I covet it, but I can't seem to find one to buy 
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Jun 3, 2010 16:40
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Z3n posted:Speaking of approved tools for head bearings...has anyone ever seen an adjustable preload spanner? My suspension guy has one and holy gently caress do I covet it, but I can't seem to find one to buy Like this one?
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Jun 3, 2010 16:55
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frozenphil posted:Like this one? That'd probably work, but the one he had had a thumb adjuster that extended the back side of the wrench, like on an adjustable crescent wrench, so you could get the spanner to exactly the size you needed and there was no chance of it slipping off. It was chewed up and old as hell, he's probably had it for decades.
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Jun 3, 2010 17:03
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PGR-5010-103/?rtype=10 How about that, 2 sides are better than one! Edit: Kinda cool actually... might pick one up for the coilovers on the car because the ones they came with are god awful..
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Jun 3, 2010 17:27
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How do these rivets look? I cranked down pretty hard on the breaker/riveter I bought but it doesn't seem like it did much. Click here for the full 1033x896 image.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:21
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Looks pretty good to me, nicely flared out around the edges, which is all you need.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:23
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Z3n posted:Looks pretty good to me, nicely flared out around the edges, which is all you need. Awesome. I cranked the thing down as I hard as I could and then later read that you're not supposed to do that, you can overflare/crack the rivet. Glad I didn't.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:26
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Well, I'm back! I haven't had a chance to pick up any seafoam yet, but I did run into an interesting problem on my commute last night. I was on the tail end of about an hour-long commute (90% of which was spent in stop and go traffic on varying graded hills) when suddenly the clutch stopped engaging. If I pulled the lever in all the way, the foot pedal would slightly depress but not actually move into a new gear. When I relaxed my grip slightly on the lever, I could hear the "chunk" sound as the bike moved into the new gear I had tried to put it into earlier. After about 3 minutes of freaking out while this was going on, I pulled off and turned off the bike. I played with the clutch lever and foot pedal for a bit, and turned the bike back on. It was still stuck in 2nd gear, and I rocked it back and forth a little bit and after trying to shift down into first it finally worked. I ran through all of the gears 3-4 times and it worked flawlessly, just like normal. I finished up my commute to the office, let the bike sit for a few hours, and then drove about an hour home in no traffic (but shifting as much as possible to see if the problem came back). The problem never surfaced again. Any ideas? Freak accident? I've never done ANY mechanical work before, so if there is anything I should check out you might have to dumb it down for me, but I'm ordering a shop manual for my bike (1985 CB450, from the last page) next week.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:37
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Gnaghi posted:Awesome. I cranked the thing down as I hard as I could and then later read that you're not supposed to do that, you can overflare/crack the rivet. Glad I didn't. Yeah, you're not supposed to beat the poo poo out of it or anything. I'd keep an eye on it.
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Jun 3, 2010 18:37
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Z3n posted:Yeah, you're not supposed to beat the poo poo out of it or anything. I'd keep an eye on it. I'm banned from ever touching a breaker bar, or putting the last few nuts back on at the end of a job. I have a habit of going a bit too far. But it wasn't me that broke the chain riveter, that was my friend.
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Jun 3, 2010 19:16
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Thanks for the responses on the cruise control. I think I'll be going with the Vista as the Throttlemeister is just big enough that the bars for my bike might not fit through the door to my hallway where I store my bike. And I have another question. I'm looking at luggage (saddlebags and sissy bar bag both), and have pretty much settled on something from Tour Master. They have the Cruiser II line in synthetic leather and the Cruiser III line in 840 and 1000 denier nylon. I know a lot of sport bike luggage comes in nylon; what is the durability like? NewEnough says the synthetic leather of the Cruiser II is just about the best on the market. But I like that you can carry the nylon sissy bar bag like a backpack or with a shoulder strap, which you can't on the leather. They both have rain covers, but the nylon's is integrated into the bag so it won't get lost or forgotten. But, with the leather set you can separate the barrelbag from the main bag, which you can't on the nylon. As for the saddlebags, the leather don't appear to have heat shields. But, the leather yoke (the middle bit that holds the bags together) seems thinner than the nylon, which makes me think they'll be easier to mount under the seat. The nylon are cheaper, but I think the leather will look better on the bike, as much as I hate to admit that it sways my opinion. So I guess my questions in that wall of text are thus: 1) Is the nylon less durable than the synthetic leather? 2) Are heat shields important if I go with the leather saddlebags? 3) Does anyone have experience with either line of luggage?
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Jun 3, 2010 19:25
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Pvt. Public posted:2) Are heat shields important if I go with the leather saddlebags? Not sure about your other questions, but speaking as someone who burned a hole through a pair of leather gloves accidentally leaving them on a hot exhaust, I'd say yeah you care about heat shields with leather.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:32
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That's what I figured, but why wouldn't they include them if they're so important? Strange.
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Jun 3, 2010 20:52
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Z3n posted:Speaking of approved tools for head bearings...has anyone ever seen an adjustable preload spanner? My suspension guy has one and holy gently caress do I covet it, but I can't seem to find one to buy There's a preload adjuster spanner in the stock SV650 toolkit. No clue if it would work on anything except the stock shock, or if there's some sort of standard for that sort of thing....
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Jun 4, 2010 00:27
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Pvt. Public posted:
I had the synthetic... soft-ish.... weird stuff Kawasaki bags on my KLR. They worked alright, they smooshed easily but it never seemed to hurt anything. As far as heat- it never seemed to be a problem.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:35
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Pvt. Public posted:That's what I figured, but why wouldn't they include them if they're so important? Strange. Because nylon MELTS at a lower temperature than leather will BURN. The bags aren't supposed to be in CONTACT with your exhaust, like the anecdotal evidence of the leather glove.
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Jun 4, 2010 00:58
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I'm poking at why my throttle isn't returning properly, and after taking the throttle cables off and taking the grip off, I noticed the bar was scratched a fair bit and the inside of the throttle grip...thingy is pretty dirty. I figure this is not helping my throttle return smoothly (or at all...). The innermost part had what looked like a layer of caked dirt and lithium grease. The question: After I get all the dirt out, should I lube the tube with more lithium grease or just put it back on clean?
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Jun 4, 2010 01:40
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Clean. I've never lubed a throttle tube, and I really dont imagine it would be that great of an idea, what with the inevitable possibility of your grips slipping, or the switch housing moving. If it still doesnt return when you put the throttle tube on dry, its getting hung up in the switch housing somewhere, or the throttle cables. It could be hanging on the carb end, but thats sort of a rarity.
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Jun 4, 2010 02:40
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sklnd posted:I'm poking at why my throttle isn't returning properly, and after taking the throttle cables off and taking the grip off, I noticed the bar was scratched a fair bit and the inside of the throttle grip...thingy is pretty dirty. I figure this is not helping my throttle return smoothly (or at all...). The innermost part had what looked like a layer of caked dirt and lithium grease. I'd clean the bar, and make sure there are no imperfections (sand them down if there are, but it's a rarity). The throttle housing is usually held on by a pin that fits into the bar, but not all bikes are like that. If I've got a pinned throttle housing, I'll lube the bar a touch, if I've got the kind that relies on friction, I won't. `Nemesis posted:There's a preload adjuster spanner in the stock SV650 toolkit. No clue if it would work on anything except the stock shock, or if there's some sort of standard for that sort of thing.... The reason I'm looking for a fully adjustable one is I'd like to be able to buy one tool that I can use on both the smaller head bearing fittings and the larger preload ones. Doesn't look like that's an option though
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Jun 4, 2010 03:46
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The KLR housing relies on friction, with two butter-soft brass machine screws that Kawasaki loves so much holding the two pieces together. The paint on the bar has been scratched down to bare metal in places. I guess I'll sand it down.
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Jun 4, 2010 04:18
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sklnd posted:The KLR housing relies on friction, with two butter-soft brass machine screws that Kawasaki loves so much holding the two pieces together. Hello KLR buddy. Do you know what size bolts hold the stock luggage rack to the bike? My bolts popped out on both sides, no clue what to replace them with.
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Jun 4, 2010 19:29
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Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment?
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Jun 4, 2010 23:28
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Gnaghi posted:Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment? I use a bit of string tied to some axle stands. Axle stand in front of the bike, one just behind, make sure the string is only just touching the wheel. Then you'll be able to tune up the alignment. If you have 4 axle stands, it's easiest to do it with two bits of string, but you can do it with 1. Just have both stands in front of the bike, take the string from one stand, down past the bike, around the back wheel and back to the 2nd stand. Once you've done it, you ought not to need to do it again for a while, just make sure you adjust each nut the same amount at the same time (I was taught 1/4 turn each time). The garage uses a long bit of metal, and I guess you could use a laser pointer somehow, but the string is simple, and easy to use, and it stays there when you let go.
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Jun 5, 2010 00:32
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Oh ok. Didn't quite understand but I found pics of the string setup, thanks. http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/index.html
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Jun 5, 2010 01:02
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Hughmoris posted:Hello KLR buddy. Do you know what size bolts hold the stock luggage rack to the bike? My bolts popped out on both sides, no clue what to replace them with. If you're talking about the ones on the side, they're M8x??. My pannier rack goes through those holes and is held on by M8x80 bolts, so I'd imagine something a lot shorter would be appropriate. If you're talking about the two on top, I have no idea.
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Jun 5, 2010 01:10
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Gnaghi posted:Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment? I've heard good things about the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. I haven't picked one up myself yet, but all of the reviews I've read say that it is easy to use and accurate when checked against the string method. Seems like it would be a lot less hassle too.
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Jun 5, 2010 05:03
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Gnaghi posted:Are the wheel alignment markings on the rear axle a good guide to use, or is there a more precise method for alignment? I've taken to measuring the distance from the center of the axle bolt to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides and making sure the two numbers match. Seems to work pretty well.
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Jun 5, 2010 07:29
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Gnaghi posted:Oh ok. Didn't quite understand but I found pics of the string setup, thanks. Oh cool, that looks clever. I have no idea why I didn't think of taping the string down, I use duck tape on almost every other job. In fact, my underseat toolkit is duck tape and an adjustable spanner. I did think of the measuring the axle way, but logic told me that the error was too large to make a meaningful measurement. It'd be easier to see at the front with the long lever arm.
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Jun 5, 2010 10:03
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sectoidman posted:I've taken to measuring the distance from the center of the axle bolt to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides and making sure the two numbers match. Seems to work pretty well. Yeah that's what I did, but it runs over rearsets and pushes out the tape so it doesn't seem like it'd be accurate. frozenphil posted:I've heard good things about the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. I haven't picked one up myself yet, but all of the reviews I've read say that it is easy to use and accurate when checked against the string method. Seems like it would be a lot less hassle too. Huh, go figure...I bought one of these awhile back and just remembered that I had it in the basement!
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Jun 5, 2010 18:17
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Hughmoris posted:Hello KLR buddy. Do you know what size bolts hold the stock luggage rack to the bike? My bolts popped out on both sides, no clue what to replace them with. I could be wrong, but I just replaced these on a 2009. I think they are 6mm 1.0, not sure on length, probably in the range of 25-35. The rack is probably different on an older KLR, but they are likely the same. . . RE: I am talking about the ones that go through the top, fyi. On the 09 there are 6, 2 longer and 4 shorter ones.
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Jun 5, 2010 20:35
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My friend just lowsided on his Ninja 250 while turning into his townhouse complex's rear parking lot. Being the usual idiot he is, he was trying out his new Scorpion jacket while wearing just shorts and sandals. Along with suffering a laceration on his left foot, the front wheel of the 250 is a bit hosed up. When I jump on it and align the handlebars straight, the forks look straight, but the wheel is turned to the right a bit. What does this signify?
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Jun 6, 2010 00:43
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the walkin dude posted:My friend just lowsided on his Ninja 250 while turning into his townhouse complex's rear parking lot. Being the usual idiot he is, he was trying out his new Scorpion jacket while wearing just shorts and sandals. Along with suffering a laceration on his left foot, the front wheel of the 250 is a bit hosed up. When I jump on it and align the handlebars straight, the forks look straight, but the wheel is turned to the right a bit. What does this signify? I think the fork tubes are probably just twisted a bit in the triple tree. Loosen up the bolts in the triple tree and get the wheel pointed strait while the bars are straight. You probably need to suspend the front end of the bike first so that when you loosen the bolts the tubes don't slide up the triple tree.
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Jun 6, 2010 03:16
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Depending on your bike you may need to loosen the front axle bolt as well. The best method is to loosen all clamps on the forks along with the axle bolt and then align it from there by holding the front wheel between your legs and jerking the grips. Be sure to suspend the front of the bike or the second you loosen the clamps on the forks the front of the bike will dive down the forks. If you're short on time or out in the middle of nowhere, holding the front tire against a solid object and whacking it repeatedly until it moves back into position is a good temporary fix.
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Jun 6, 2010 03:33
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once you get it pretty close, sit on the bike and grab the front brake and pump up and down with the bottom pinch bolts and the axle still loose, it should pretty much get it back to normal.
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Jun 6, 2010 04:58
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My friend rode his Fz6 for about 8000 miles with handlebars pulled to the right while the wheel is straight, I rode it once, hit him, then fixed it for him. I had to ride the ktm home one day with that problem (after i crashed going off jumps at the skatepark), drove my crazy and fixed it really fast and easy. NO FAIRINGS <3 SUMO
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Jun 6, 2010 06:18
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so i want to do a trip around southeast asia, anyone got links to some trip reports of people trekking across asia?
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Jun 7, 2010 00:42
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