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`Nemesis posted:I think the fork tubes are probably just twisted a bit in the triple tree. Loosen up the bolts in the triple tree and get the wheel pointed strait while the bars are straight. You probably need to suspend the front end of the bike first so that when you loosen the bolts the tubes don't slide up the triple tree. What I've done is pretty much this. Loosen the upper and lower triple tree mounts. Then stand in front of the bike with the front wheel between my knees, with the bike on the center stand and bend it back and forth till I got it straight. Good as new.
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Jun 7, 2010 01:52
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nskowyra posted:so i want to do a trip around southeast asia, anyone got links to some trip reports of people trekking across asia? Top Gear had an episode where Jeremy, James and Richard rode through Vietnam on scooters and a small Minsk. It's probably not hugely educational but pretty hilarious.
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Jun 7, 2010 01:54
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nskowyra posted:so i want to do a trip around southeast asia, anyone got links to some trip reports of people trekking across asia? http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=460631 He does Sydney to London on a 110 cc honda wearing a 3/4 helmet and chuck taylors which is pretty atypical for adventure rider trip reports, I liked it.
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Jun 7, 2010 02:44
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nskowyra posted:so i want to do a trip around southeast asia, anyone got links to some trip reports of people trekking across asia? I remember seeing some stuff here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3260679
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Jun 7, 2010 15:35
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awesome, awesome, thanks guys. ill post a map of where I am thinking of going in a few hours.
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Jun 7, 2010 16:29
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Has there been a thread discussing the economics of calling your bike totaled VS repairing it? Long story, a bolt on the camshaft cap of my GS500 has been sheered (worst location and hardest metal on the bike), repairs might be around $6-700. The bike is worth $1300 resale. If I don't repair it, I'm only out $200 for labor, but I will be bikeless. If I do repair it, I might be able to sell it for around $500 more than the repair costs, leaving me more money to get a new bike. It's not in perfect cosmetic condition so selling might be a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 7, 2010 16:39
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Moved from the SV650 Won't Start thread...Z3n posted:What's wrong with the bars as they are? Jabs posted:I *am* wondering when I'll get the feeling back in my hands, though. I've got a very faint sense of numbness and a slight tingly/asleep sensation along my pinky and the pad of my palm running along that side of my hand for about 36-48 hours after riding the KLR. The knuckles of my pinkies hurt a little afterward, too.
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Jun 7, 2010 17:34
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Jabs posted:I've got a very faint sense of numbness and a slight tingly/asleep sensation along my pinky and the pad of my palm running along that side of my hand for about 36-48 hours after riding the KLR. The knuckles of my pinkies hurt a little afterward, too. I've had some numbness in my right thumb after riding for hours on the interstate but it goes away after a few minutes at a rest stop. If it lasted 36-48 hours I would be worried.
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Jun 7, 2010 18:05
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RichBomb posted:Has there been a thread discussing the economics of calling your bike totaled VS repairing it? That sucks. I'd buy a replacement head, slap it on, and call it good. I'd bet you could sell the bike non-running for 600-1000$ (depending on condition), and use that money to put towards a new bike. Jabs, why not trying to fill the bars with sand first?
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Jun 7, 2010 18:28
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Z3n posted:Jabs, why not trying to fill the bars with sand first? I'll try that.
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Jun 7, 2010 20:00
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The PO of my bike musta torqued the hell outta the screws on the master cylinder. I went to change the brake fluid today and discovered that I couldn't loosen one of the screws. In fact, I stripped the drat thing trying. Any tips for loosening a stripped screw?
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Jun 7, 2010 20:13
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benwards posted:The PO of my bike musta torqued the hell outta the screws on the master cylinder. I went to change the brake fluid today and discovered that I couldn't loosen one of the screws. Impact driver. If that doesn't work, you can dremel in a slot and try again. If that doesn't work, you can drill it out.
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Jun 7, 2010 20:22
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Jabs posted:Because, despite my prolific posting, and the fact that I soak up the information here like a new Bed Bath and Beyond sponge (and manage spit it back out at "sage advice" on occasion), and the fact that this is now, technically, my 4th bike, I'm still a noob, and I hadn't read that suggestion before. =) Did I already ask if your gloves have padded palms? I got a pair that does and my finger tingling went away. This post is just one word away from sounding dirty. 
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Jun 7, 2010 20:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Did I already ask if your gloves have padded palms? I got a pair that does and my finger tingling went away. After the first 700 miles, those went straight to the top of the List Of Stuff To Get, but they're not in the budget yet.
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Jun 7, 2010 20:35
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benwards posted:The PO of my bike musta torqued the hell outta the screws on the master cylinder. I went to change the brake fluid today and discovered that I couldn't loosen one of the screws. I've sort of been following your progress, but don't know how long the bike has been dormant. You may pop the top and find the fluid is now a curious mix of brown sugar and honey. It may be what's fusing the screws in place, though you'd probably have seen this effect in the downstream hardware. If the reservoir is crazed and faded, this may not be apparent from the outside. If you do have this crud, a thorough cleaning is in order, as well as some compressed air through the lines to be on the safe side.
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Jun 7, 2010 20:52
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Marv Hushman posted:I've sort of been following your progress, but don't know how long the bike has been dormant. You may pop the top and find the fluid is now a curious mix of brown sugar and honey. It may be what's fusing the screws in place, though you'd probably have seen this effect in the downstream hardware. If the reservoir is crazed and faded, this may not be apparent from the outside. If you do have this crud, a thorough cleaning is in order, as well as some compressed air through the lines to be on the safe side. I can see the fluid through the reservoir, and it looks all right, but the brakes are pretty soft, so I was figuring on bleeding it and checking for air bubbles. When I did the clutch fluid I found that the screws were similarly over-tightened, though not to the extent of stripping one in trying to remove it. I have neither an impact driver nor a dremel, so I guess I'll be drilling it out and hunting down a replacement. Yeehaw. Edit: The bike is an '84 CB700SC, and as near as I can tell it's not really gone any length of time in pure dormancy. It's got 40k miles on it, a leaking crankcase, weak front suspension, and what appears to be a seriously glazed left rotor. I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do about crankcase, suspension, and rotor, but immediate plans are to get it up to snuff for a leisurely trip from the Bay Area to Portland at the end of June. I may get the rotor resurfaced before then if changing the fluid/degreasing the rotor and pads doesn't strengthen the front brakes to my satisfaction. benwards fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 21:55
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here is my tentative route. I have none of the roads planned out yet, so if you know anyone who has done a trip similar. I am very flexible in the planning... I pretty much just want to start planning out something that starts in Malaysia 
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Jun 7, 2010 22:18
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That's a very realistic route in my opinion. In that it ends with a North Korean border violation and then nothing more.
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Jun 7, 2010 22:35
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nskowyra posted:here is my tentative route. I have none of the roads planned out yet, so if you know anyone who has done a trip similar. I am very flexible in the planning... I pretty much just want to start planning out something that starts in Malaysia Well you're going to have loads of trouble getting through Myanmar as they've had their boarders closed for quite a while. Some people get in with invitations from high ranking delegates others travel by bus on an authorized tour group but very very few foreigners get to bring their own vehicle in. Then it looks like you just want to ride across the Karakoram desert which mainly has roads running E-W rather than N-S, in the Tibetan areas of China most foreigners are required to travel with a guide which are rather expensive on a daily basis. You're also supposed to file a full trip itinerary with the guide and you're not allowed to deviate much from that, granted some people get around that by wandering around without a guide or finding a cooperative company who will file the paperwork and show up at the border to see you across then let you off the leash but you'd be fully on your own, don't expect to find English speakers and you'll be breaking the law so any interaction with the authorities could end up with you being detained. Good luck getting into North Korea, they're not too accommodating from what I hear. Your plans are highly ambitious, but you might want to send a PM to Beemer Boy on ADVrider he's traveled extensively in the region and been in China multiple times by motorbike. He could give you more detailed information. EDIT: I'd suggest you fly to India and travel up through Nepal, if you're serious about trying to get into China that would likely be the easiest entry point, or you could go through Kazakhstan and follow the south eastern roads in Russia to get back to the Sea of Japan/Pacific. Either way you should expect very rough roads and a complete lack of English speakers. PlasticSun fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jun 7, 2010 |
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Jun 7, 2010 23:08
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Hey guys. 10W40 is on sale here and I'm going to pick some up for the WR. Any opinions. My options are AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and some super cheap conventional. The synthetics would be better but I'm not so sure.
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Jun 8, 2010 01:29
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I had no idea about Myanmar, and I have no intentions on getting into Korea, I know some people in Vladivostok and could hitch a ride back to the states on a boat if I made it there.
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Jun 8, 2010 14:08
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King no one posted:Hey guys. 10W40 is on sale here and I'm going to pick some up for the WR. Any opinions. My options are AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and some super cheap conventional. The synthetics would be better but I'm not so sure. Synthetics last longer, that's about it. Don't use car oil. Make sure it's for motorcycles. Otherwise, anything's fine (okay, maybe not vegetable oil).
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Jun 8, 2010 15:04
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Make sure it doesn't say energy conserving in the API donut in the back...it plays hell with wet clutches.
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Jun 8, 2010 15:08
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Benwards: I have neither an impact driver nor a dremel, so I guess I'll be drilling it out and hunting down a replacement. Yeehaw. Best of luck with the prep...I have an '83 750SC and always wanted to try the "S." About the same bike minus 100 lbs of chrome. Don't sweat the oil leak until it ruins your best boots. Also, look into Harbor Freight as a lo-buck alternative for single/infrequent-use tools. Where else on the planet can you get a set of Helping Hands for $2.99?
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Jun 8, 2010 16:36
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so I have take off the side cover and water pump to change some leaking seals on my KLR (coolant coming out of weep hole), and the place I ordered the seals and gaskets from forgot to include the clutch cover gasket. Is it okay to reuse the gasket, or should I wait? I'm leaving on a 2000 mile trip in a week, so this basically happened at the worst possible time, especially with the forgetting to include the gasket... Options: -Try to reuse the gasket -Dont pull everything until I get back but top off the coolant as needed Armacham fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 01:30
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I'd just ride it as-is, and keep an eye on coolant level. You can reuse it if you dont tear it, but if you tear it no riding for you until you get a new gasket.
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Jun 10, 2010 02:08
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When I bought my '89 GSXR750, the brakes were really squishy. I bled air out of both calipers, unbolted the lines so the resoivar was straight up and down, and pumped the lever a bunch. This worked great and the feel was greatly stiffened up. Problem is it only lasted for a week of riding before getting squishy again. I re-bled it the same way and again, it got stiff for another week, now it's squishy again. What gives? It has the original rubber lines, but it seems like it's sucking air in somewhere. I would think that if it sucked air in, it'd leak fluid out, but there aren't any leaks. Time for stainless braided lines?
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Jun 10, 2010 02:37
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The trip to Nashville started today. We got a late start and only put in 380 miles before daylight gave out. I overpacked but the luggage is working great. To whomever told me to take Alleve. Thank you!!!!
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Jun 10, 2010 04:38
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MrZig posted:When I bought my '89 GSXR750, the brakes were really squishy. I bled air out of both calipers, unbolted the lines so the resoivar was straight up and down, and pumped the lever a bunch. This worked great and the feel was greatly stiffened up. It could be leaking around the reservoir lid. Spray some soapy water on and pump the brake. But steel braided lines, why not? I can recommend the Goodridge DIY ones.
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Jun 10, 2010 05:59
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So I've been riding scooters for a while, and my V-Strom for about four months now. Everything's going great, I love the bike, and I'm getting more confident by the day, having put about 2000 miles on it so far. However, the paranoia/ultra-defensive driving that I learned from driving buses in college has carried over to my riding. I'm pretty conservative. My biggest issue is, of course, turns. How do you know how fast your bike can go into a turn? Ever since I heard of my friend lowsiding after hitting some sand in a turn, I always slow down way too slowly. Any exercises anyone can recommend or tips to keep in mind?
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Jun 10, 2010 15:50
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You work up to it slowly, basically. It's not just about how fast your bike can do, but also how fast your brain can take in the info. Also, cracking on the throttle will help settle the bike and keep cornering clearance up, as well as helping you avoid lowsides should you hit gravel. Keith Code did some testing in one of his columns for motorcyclist a few months back, and he discovered that you could hit a patch of gravel at 45 degrees of lean and not lowside as long as you were on the throttle. If you shut off the throttle, you'd wash the front at around 20 degrees of lean. Trackdays are useful for this, as is playing in a clean parking lot with good asphalt. Just work up to it slowly. Also of help: Pick up Nick Ienatsch's Sport Riding Techniques...it's more street oriented than books like twist of the wrist 2. Available for 20$ or so on amazon, and worth 5 times that.
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Jun 10, 2010 16:46
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I'm looking for a couple things to add to my F2 to make it a better candidate for track riding. First up is a rear shock. Mine is a '94 with the reservoir but I want a Fox Racing shock or equivalent. Whatever will bolt on and give a considerable improvement. My local shop, which has a racing F2, uses a Fox shock and said that getting an F3/F4 shock would not give a noticeable improvement. Secondly, I'm looking for a steering dampener. Where are some good places to find both of these items besides the obvious like eBay and Craigslist? Which shocks and dampeners would fit on my bike with minimal modification? How hard is it to install an aftermarket rear shock anyways?
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Jun 10, 2010 20:26
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I'm looking for a couple things to add to my F2 to make it a better candidate for track riding. First up is a rear shock. Mine is a '94 with the reservoir but I want a Fox Racing shock or equivalent. Whatever will bolt on and give a considerable improvement. My local shop, which has a racing F2, uses a Fox shock and said that getting an F3/F4 shock would not give a noticeable improvement. Secondly, I'm looking for a steering dampener. Check if there's any F2 forums out there. Also, WERA racing might have someone racing vintage with one kicking around. You can make just about any shock work, it's just a matter of finding the right length, travel, and getting the mounting clevis modified as needed. But usually that's more work than it's worth. You could also see if the stock unit could be rebuilt with proper valving. You shouldn't need a steering damper on an older F2, if your setup is good you shouldn't be getting any headshake.
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Jun 10, 2010 20:54
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I'm not getting any headshake on normal public roads but I have no idea what will happen when I'm pushing it on a track. I'll leave the steering damper for a later date if at all.
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Jun 10, 2010 21:20
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I'm not getting any headshake on normal public roads but I have no idea what will happen when I'm pushing it on a track. I'll leave the steering damper for a later date if at all. Shouldn't be a concern at all. Not enough HP to get it headshaking due to wheelies, stable chassis. I'd be very surprised if you have headshake issues. If you do, it points more at a setup problem than anything else.
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Jun 10, 2010 21:27
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Alright, I picked up a '75 Honda CB500T that had spent the past 12 years sitting in a barn. When I bought it, it didn't spark, the electrical systems were shot, and the carbs were completely gunked up. I've cleaned the carbs, messed with the electrical system enough that I can get a spark, and got it running. I've now just got one issue: after the engine starts getting hot, it will start to rev up to about 6kRPM when it's idling. I've also noticed that the right muffler is backfiring, and leaking what appears to be a little bit of oil where it meets the exhaust pipe. Does this sound like an issue that I'm going to have to take it into a mechanic for? Right now the fuel mix is probably a little less than 1/4 seafoam, and I'm wondering if that might also be causing the trouble.
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Jun 11, 2010 00:45
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Well, good gas is the first step, but it sounds like either a stuck throttle or the choke isn't going all the way off...if the choke is left halfway on it'll cause the bike to rev high. Could also be the cables binding up and causing the throttle to stick open. Could also be the idle got turned up way high if someone was using the idle adjustment to compensate for clogged jets.
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Jun 11, 2010 01:03
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So, I ordered a cam-chain tensioner rebuild kit for my ninja 250, and it came with everything except a new tensioner body and mounting screws. I have been attempting, unsuccessfully, to remove the tensioner collar from the tensioner body. Is this even possible? I've tried dousing it in liquid wrench, freezing it, heating it to 200 degrees with a heat gun, combinations of freezing and heating, and am now considering boiling it for an extended period. Edit: never mind, the fucker finally came out after the judicious application of a blowtorch sectoidman fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Jun 11, 2010 |
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Jun 11, 2010 02:12
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Z3n posted:Well, good gas is the first step, but it sounds like either a stuck throttle or the choke isn't going all the way off...if the choke is left halfway on it'll cause the bike to rev high. Could also be the cables binding up and causing the throttle to stick open. Could also be the idle got turned up way high if someone was using the idle adjustment to compensate for clogged jets. I'm sure it's not the cables binding, it revs even while the throttle screws are making contact with whatever part it is that prevents the engine from stalling completely. 500T's have one choke control for both carbs, and the single piece of aluminum that controls them is pretty bent, so I'll take a look at it and see if it's causing one choke to remain open more than the other. I had that problem earlier, but I thought it was fixed. I'm not sure that it's the idle, because it doesn't happen instantly, only after the engine heats up.
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Jun 11, 2010 05:20
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How far through it's travel is the idle adjustment screw? But it seems far more likely that the choke is getting slightly stuck on then.
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Jun 11, 2010 05:29
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