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grnberet2b posted:How hard is it to get a new ignition switch for a mid to late '60s bike? While cleaning out an old shed, I've come across a bike that my dad owned, and am considering fixing it up and using it for my daily 3 mile commute instead of my Jeep Wrangler. I understand that this wont be a small undertaking, but I've long since wanted to do a big project, and I think this might work for it. I'd rig up just a temporary toggle switch for now until you get the rest of roadworthy.
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Jun 14, 2010 01:14
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Fantastipotamus posted:Here's mine, it was a 2006, had it for two years or so and put about 5k miles on it. 4k kms a year? Ride more.
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Jun 14, 2010 02:52
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grnberet2b posted:How hard is it to get a new ignition switch for a mid to late '60s bike? While cleaning out an old shed, I've come across a bike that my dad owned, and am considering fixing it up and using it for my daily 3 mile commute instead of my Jeep Wrangler. I understand that this wont be a small undertaking, but I've long since wanted to do a big project, and I think this might work for it. I'd rig up a switch like was mentioned, but if it is a Honda scooter or bike you should have no problem finding just about anything for it on ebay.
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Jun 14, 2010 03:11
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Poop, the carb cleaning guide dopped to archives, anyone have a good cleaning guide for the Mikuni 38? I've cleaned my BS32SS before, but I wouldn't mind having a guide for the 38. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3017242 Edit: nm, figured out what I needed to know. Stupid press in main jets and fragile 4mm o-rings... UserNotFound fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Jun 14, 2010 |
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Jun 14, 2010 03:17
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UserNotFound posted:Poop, the carb cleaning guide dopped to archives... It's on Page 2.
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Jun 14, 2010 16:43
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UserNotFound posted:I'd rig up just a temporary toggle switch for now until you get the rest of roadworthy. Duh... That would actually make sense...
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Jun 14, 2010 16:47
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Jabs posted:It did no such thing. CTRL+F failed me Google site: failed me I fail.
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Jun 14, 2010 19:30
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How hard is it to change out the rear shock in an F2? I'm assuming I need to suspend the subframe somehow. I know that if I just use my rear stand, the bike will collapse when the shock is removed. I don't know if I have rafters - any alternate methods?
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Jun 14, 2010 21:01
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:How hard is it to change out the rear shock in an F2? I'm assuming I need to suspend the subframe somehow. I know that if I just use my rear stand, the bike will collapse when the shock is removed. I don't know if I have rafters - any alternate methods? Skyhook it with a ladder, pieces of wood under the header/block (make sure your header is in decent shape), lift it from the pegs with jacks (if they're the non-folding type), jack under the rear of the frame.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:12
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Does carb cleaner eat o-rings? If so I'mma have to order a new pilot screw o-ring.
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Jun 14, 2010 21:48
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2ndclasscitizen posted:4k kms a year? Ride more. edit: oh yeah, I also have two motorcycles, so I ride more, I just try to split my riding time between my road bike, and my KLR. The mileage stated was for my Buell only. Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 14, 2010 |
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Jun 14, 2010 22:39
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Phy posted:Does carb cleaner eat o-rings? If so I'mma have to order a new pilot screw o-ring. Generally, yes.
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Jun 14, 2010 22:45
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Alright. I can't find my drain bolt. I looked in the manual, and there is a picture, but it is so zoomed in that I can't get context. The following are pictures of the bottom of my bike:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. .jpg) Click here for the full 800x600 image. It is not any of the following bolts:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Would someone kindly highlight the proper bolt please?
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Jun 15, 2010 00:34
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The oil drain bolt is generally on the lowest side of the case when the bike is on it's side stand. I'm pretty sure it's on the other side of the bike from the perspective of those pictures. My only other guess would be the bolt that is directly below the filter. The one just above the exhaust.
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Jun 15, 2010 00:48
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It almost has to be on the other side of the bike.
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Jun 15, 2010 00:51
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2010 00:54
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Well, after listening to your collective wisdom I took the effort to look on the other god drat side of the bike, and found what I can only assume is the drain plug. Unfortunately, it is exceptionally tight. I would not consider myself herculean, but I am certain capable, and I was totally unable to move it whatsoever. The bike still needs to be inspected, so I'll just bring the oil and filter I bought and ask them to perform the change for me.
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Jun 15, 2010 01:21
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Well, after listening to your collective wisdom I took the effort to look on the other god drat side of the bike, and found what I can only assume is the drain plug. Unfortunately, it is exceptionally tight. I would not consider myself herculean, but I am certain capable, and I was totally unable to move it whatsoever. The bike still needs to be inspected, so I'll just bring the oil and filter I bought and ask them to perform the change for me. Don't feel bad, almost everyone other than yourself and other goons will put the oil drain plug back in using an impact gun instead of gingerly torquing it like they're supposed to.
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Jun 15, 2010 17:15
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So I'm about to rebuild 3x Mikuni BS34(I think that's correct) carbs that terribly need it, in my first attempt to get a non-running bike running. I'm about to order carb re-build kits, and I've found two vendors that have them, and I wanted to ask which one should I get, or is there a better place to order rebuild kits from? http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Yamaha-X...&category=74220 https://www.partsnmore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK&Store_Code=1&Action=ADPR&Product_Code=48-1407&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1 Or is there a better place to get the parts I need to rebuild these? I'll have to order a battery and a valve cover gasket as well before I go and try to start the bike. Also, the carbs I'm cleaning are ridiculously dirty and full of crap. I'm wondering if just letting them (minus the rubber part) soak overnight in some mineral spirits or acetone is okay, or once again is there something better I can soak them in to get all the crap out of them?
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Jun 15, 2010 17:27
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I cannot figure my bike out. I had it out for a nice ride Sunday night, then Monday morning it wouldn't start. Cranks over and over, and won't catch. I got it to start on my first try, the idle fluctuated a lot, then it died and wouldn't start again. Tonight, it cranked over and over and finally caught, ran fast for a while with choke, then started to even out, then died. I can't get it to start again, with any degree of choke or throttle. Carbs are perfectly clean, I just got my fuel mix more or less established. Nothing changed since Sunday when it ran perfectly and felt great on the road at all speeds. No sputtering or stalling when slowing or with throttle. It's a 1977 KZ1000, Mikuni 33 smoothbores, pods and pipe. I've had no end of trouble tuning it, but it seemed fine just two days ago, and now it's done. Where do I go from here?
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Jun 16, 2010 02:49
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I'd pull your plugs and have a look at them. If they are all fouled out it won't start. I really don't know why it would have run perfectly and then not at all now. Maybe it's running rich and the accumulated soot is keeping it from starting now? I've got a set of VM33 smoothies I've been wanting to stick on something old and large (they're spaced for a Kaw or Suzuki). Hopefully I won't have a horrible time of it. I've heard when they are dialed in they'll make a bike fly.
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Jun 16, 2010 04:23
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My friend just bought an 85 Honda Shadow. He's got it idling and starting fine after buying a new battery and I don't think he's done anything else. The problem is the bike starts stalling above 3k rpms. I'm guessing either carbs or jets are clogged. Is this an accurate assumption I'm not much mechanically inclined and he knows about cars not bikes.
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Jun 16, 2010 14:22
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Either carbs or some ignition problem. I'd tear down the carbs, clean everything out (make sure you run some wire through the jets) and see where things go from there.
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Jun 16, 2010 15:30
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Could it be not getting enough air?
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Jun 18, 2010 06:52
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I decided I should lube my clutch cable this weekend (1988 Suzuki Katana 600F) and encountered a problem. I went to remove the clutch cable from the lever normally found above the gearbox and instead found this : Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. The bit highlighted in red is the clutch cable as it disappears. I've loosened what I thought was the lock washer (bottom of the red box) but it didn't actually accomplish anything. I should note the chain also disappears under the black cover with the holes in it. Anyone have a clue whats going on here?
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Jun 19, 2010 00:37
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The lever is inside there. It turns a cam dealy with little ball bearing that push on a rod that actuates your clutch. You can take that cover off if you need to get into there.
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Jun 19, 2010 01:41
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Bugdrvr posted:The lever is inside there. It turns a cam dealy with little ball bearing that push on a rod that actuates your clutch. You can take that cover off if you need to get into there. I was afraid of that, I tried to get the cover off and it's on there very tight and I seem to lack the proper tool to torque it enough  .
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Jun 19, 2010 01:43
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That lock nut you loosened is so that you can lock in adjustments you make by threading in or loosing that exposed threaded bit.
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Jun 19, 2010 07:37
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Bugdrvr posted:I'd pull your plugs and have a look at them. If they are all fouled out it won't start. I really don't know why it would have run perfectly and then not at all now. Maybe it's running rich and the accumulated soot is keeping it from starting now? I checked my plugs last night, and they are black. A little sooty, and a little oily. I'm thinking new valve guide seals, dial back the fuel a touch more, and hotter plugs should help. Is this the right way to go? My air mixture screws are capped. Is it better to drill them out and increase the airflow, or is dialing back fuel the better way to go? How do you even begin to figure out the best mixture?
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Jun 19, 2010 17:40
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Test drove a Honda VF750S today, I believe it was called V45 Sabre in the States. 1983 year, it looked good, started fine and idled great. When I took off though, it felt weird right from the start. The bike felt like it wanted to fall into the corners at low speed left-handers, and when I went through a very mild, downward right hand turn with some uneven asphalt at maybe 35 mph, I got crazy headshake out of nowhere. Never having experienced headshake before, I pulled in the clutch and coasted to a stop before I decided to turn around and go back to the waiting seller. He lives just a hundred meters from me, and I've seen him use the bike to go to work once a week or so, making me believe him when he says he has never had any problems with shaking, since if my bike shook like that I wouldn't want ride it anywhere. Can the fact that I'm maybe 60 lb lighter than him do something to make the bike more prone to headshake? Any chance of a connection between the headshake and that feeling that the bike wanted to fall to the left? He renovated the front calipers some time ago, if he removed the front wheel while doing that, could he have put it back wrong somehow?
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Jun 19, 2010 20:16
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Z3n posted:Either carbs or some ignition problem. I'd tear down the carbs, clean everything out (make sure you run some wire through the jets) and see where things go from there. We're going to clean the carbs and jets and go from there. niethan posted:Could it be not getting enough air? How would we check this?
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Jun 20, 2010 05:45
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Clogged air filters can result in a rich condition. Pull the filter and make sure it's clear and doesn't smell like fuel. I had an air cleaner full of gas on my KZ1000P after my crash. I had a couple of cylinders that were carbon fouling plugs until I replaced the air filter.
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Jun 20, 2010 15:04
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Bought the lady a 1982 CX500 today - absolutely pristine exterior, one year old tires, fresh brake pads, pretty much everything you could ask for. The owners took great care of it, and it shows: the bike runs buttery smooth and she couldn't be happier with it. I'm a little bit concerned about those big old cylinders sticking out on the sides, though. I know case-savers are available if I search ebay (crash bars, whatever you want to call them) but I was wondering if anyone has any ideas about fabricating up a solution. I'd rather not replace a cylinder head if she falls over.
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Jun 20, 2010 21:16
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KidDynamite posted:How would we check this? I thought of the missing air, because a friend of mine was running his bike without saddle to test something and he was sitting on the air inlet, so the bike ran ok at low RPMs but drowned at higher ones.
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Jun 20, 2010 21:24
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What kind of bar is this? In the "post your bike" thread, some said it was a drag bar. I looked up drag bars online and they looked different. Also, see the thing on the throttle? The PO of this bike had it on there already, it's for highway cruising. What is it called?
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Jun 21, 2010 01:08
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Hard to tell from that photo, but it does look like a drag bar. Generally, they only have bends along one axis. Those looks almost exactly like these (in black, of course): http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/68/15396/ITEM/Bikemaster-Drag-Bar-Handlebar.aspx If you're happy with them, leave them alone, but you may find different styles more comfortable. I know BIkemaster Superbike bars are pretty popular among SV riders. The thing on the throttle looks like a Throttle Boss.
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Jun 21, 2010 01:22
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mr.belowaverage posted:I checked my plugs last night, and they are black. A little sooty, and a little oily. I'm thinking new valve guide seals, dial back the fuel a touch more, and hotter plugs should help. Is this the right way to go? It's weird that your mixture screws are capped on VMs. On my set drat near everything is adjustable/tweakable/fuckwithable. I'm honestly not too versed in setting up racing carbs but oily/sooty sounds like possible valve stem seals along with too rich a mixture. I personally would get it so you can mess with the bypass screws and see where they are set. Maybe start doing plug chops and see where you are running rich. If it's at WOT go down a jet or two. Mid range go down a clip on the needle and at idle turn down the screws. The seals I'd probably leave be for now. If they were leaking really badly you would be crop dusting as you are riding down the road. Once you get it set properly slightly leaking stem seals shouldn't really hurt anything as the plugs should get hot enough to cook off any oil. As far as messing with heat ranges, that is also out of my knowledge. I usually try to run with as many bits set by the factory at once while I set up whatever aftermarket part. Too many variables any other way.
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Jun 21, 2010 01:53
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I'm pretty sure it's rich at idle, because I get a fair amount of smoke and popping while I warm it up. I have fuel mix screws on the bottoms next to the bowls, and just the idle adjustment screw at the middle of the rack. Since there's nothing else adjustable, I'm fairly certain one of the little capped passages hold the air mixture screw. Is there a way to confirm, and figure out which one before I put the drill to it?
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Jun 21, 2010 03:47
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I've kind of put this issue off, because I've taken off the flywheel cover far too many times, but it needs addressing. About 20% of start-ups, if the bike hasnt been started within the last 4-5 hours or so, as soon as I press the starter there is a really loud bang. I can't give many more details than that it sounds like its coming from the flywheel, and that I assume its a timing issue. After the bang it'll start up just fine, and it doesn't happen all that often. It's not a gas-igniting type bang, more of a mechanical noise.
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Jun 21, 2010 03:58
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Test drove a Honda VF750S with squared off tires and likely bad steering head bearings Well, that's what it sounds like to me, anyways.
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Jun 21, 2010 06:54
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