|
Depending upon the carbs you'll either have an air bleed or a fuel screw. Usually you won't have both. The rule of thumb is if it's before the carb it's an air screw and if it's after it's a fuel screw. I don't think there would be anything under the caps though I could be wrong. I'm looking at my set right now and they may be different than yours. I have air screws pointing about 45 degrees upward from the inlets. No screws at all near the bowls though there are holes in them so maybe a different model has those types. If it's smoking during idle I would definitely go down at least one pilot jet size. Probably two unless your fuel screws are way out. Even one jet size to large shouldn't have it smoking.
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 06:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 02:51 |
|
|
Are there any mildly entertaining routes between Connecticut and Florida? I'm planning on taking a trip down there in a month and want to avoid 100% highway if I can. I'm going to Cocoa Beach if it helps.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 15:34
|
|
|
The Blue Ridge Parkway is a little out of your way, but well worth the side trip.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 16:12
|
|
|
TheUltimateCool posted:Bought the lady a 1982 CX500 today - absolutely pristine exterior, one year old tires, fresh brake pads, pretty much everything you could ask for. The owners took great care of it, and it shows: the bike runs buttery smooth and she couldn't be happier with it. Depending on the fall, the cylinder heads probably won't hit pavement. The handlebars should keep the upper part of the bike off pavement. Of course, it depends on how the bike falls. I would recommend against fabricating your own as they'll probably just crumple at best, and at worst they'll break and jam into her legs or something. If you really want to protect the bike, it's best to just bite the bullet and do it right. Of course, you could look at the cost of new heads vs. the cost of engine guards and see which is more economical. One great thing about that engine design, though, is that in cold weather she can just reach down and put her hands on the heads to warm up her hands (wearing gloves, or course).
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 16:33
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:I've kind of put this issue off, because I've taken off the flywheel cover far too many times, but it needs addressing. About 20% of start-ups, if the bike hasnt been started within the last 4-5 hours or so, as soon as I press the starter there is a really loud bang. I can't give many more details than that it sounds like its coming from the flywheel, and that I assume its a timing issue. Could be the starter hitting a bad spot, could be something else...you have had so many goddamn problems with that flywheel.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 17:38
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Could be the starter hitting a bad spot, could be something else...you have had so many goddamn problems with that flywheel. Tell me about it, this is even the new 2nd gen one  I'll see if I can record it one day; I'm scared my crankcase is going to explode or something.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 19:22
|
|
|
I've been out having a good time on the GS500, and while it's great most of the time, I do have one small issue with it. When I've just started it up, it seems like the actual response to the amount of throttle I give it is delayed. Like, I'll give it 1/4 and it will putter around like I'm giving it 1/8, then suddenly kick it up the remaining part. When I've ridden it for a while it seems to go away and the response becomes instantaneous or at the very least much better. If this is just the symptoms of a cold or aging bike, it's no problem to live with, just wondering if it's something fixable / worrying.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 21:19
|
|
|
Sounds like just a symptom of the bike being cold. A little choke (maybe 10%, once it hits the point in it's travel where it's working) can help that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 21:21
|
|
|
Reading my post again makes it sound more severe than it really is, but I think you're right, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2010 22:53
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:Depending upon the carbs you'll either have an air bleed or a fuel screw. Usually you won't have both. The rule of thumb is if it's before the carb it's an air screw and if it's after it's a fuel screw. This is getting very confusing. My pilots are 17.5, which almost all the folks over at kzrider.com are using for similar setups. Any goons near Kitchener-Waterloo, Ontario that would help a guy tune for beer?
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2010 00:22
|
|
|
Sorry I couldn't be more help. I've just been throwing out advice that I would use for tuning regular carbs. It may not be the best for the VMs. I've heard that these types of carbs can be a bitch to get set up just right so hopefully you can get straightened out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2010 01:29
|
|
|
Just an update on a question that I asked earlier about sealing gas tanks. I used the red kote stuff on the brute last night(honda mini trail), I checked it out this morning and it looks really good. Sealed up a some small pin holes and even some slightly larger ones. The inside of the tank has a nice red coating that looks really good.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2010 17:51
|
|
|
Help goons! I took my F2 for a nice little ride on my day off, then when I was in the middle of no where, the bike started acting funny, like it was out of gas.... but there were at least 3 gallons in there... so as I came upon a stop sign, the bike suddenly died. OH FUUUUUU... So I was basicly stranded out in the middle of no where, no cell phone reception, luckily there was a decent amount of traffic, so about 1/2 an hour later some guy stopped by, he had some tools and jumper cables. Managed to take off the seat and get to the battery, hooked up the jump cables, and it started up just fine! But died shortly after, Well it seemed to run ok if the revs were kept around 5000-6000rpm or so, So I managed to get it back into town, with cell phone reception. The bike died again of course, across from a local highschool. I called for a ride and now i'm home and the bike is parked about 3 miles away. I just got back from checking it out, I brought my tools, and multimeter. I jumped it again, battery was going around 11.X volts with the bike running, and about 10.x volts with ignition on and bike off. I know it's supposed to be at 12.x volts with the bike on and jump up to 13-14.x volts with the bike revved up a bit, but it was only showing about 11.X with revs. I'm thinking this time it's the actual battery, I mean I just replaced the regulator/rectifier with a bigger after market one, and I also did a Diode test on it and it checked out ok. I pulled the battery and brought it home and have it hooked up to a charger now. I bought a new battery before but ended up not installing it because the problem was the R/R before, and now I can't find my new battery. I'm really hoping it's not the stator 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 02:52
|
|
|
Welcome to my world F2 buddy. Well, my world a couple months ago. It does indeed sound like a bad R/R combined with a dead battery, and your revving has the stator keeping it alive. If you still have a stock R/R, replace that poo poo with one with cooling fins.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 03:01
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Welcome to my world F2 buddy. Well, my world a couple months ago. It does indeed sound like a bad R/R combined with a dead battery, and your revving has the stator keeping it alive. If you still have a stock R/R, replace that poo poo with one with cooling fins. no I DID replace the R/R with an aftermarket one with cooling fins, worked perfectly for the last 2000 miles or so since i've ridden it, I did an actual diode test on it on the bike about an hour ago when I pulled the battery, it checked out ok. I suspect it is the battery this time unable to hold a charge, it's only at about 11.6 volts right now after being on a charger for about 30 minutes. I have a new battery somewhere, I just cannot find it
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 03:19
|
|
|
Yeah sounds like the battery's toast. Obviously check it once you get the new battery in there though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 05:47
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Yeah sounds like the battery's toast. Obviously check it once you get the new battery in there though. I redid the Diode test, it actually looks like I have another dead R/R This one was actually an aftermarket one with large cooling fins.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 07:05
|
|
|
I wouldn't put too much faith in the tests. I've seen good R/Rs fail the diode tests and bad ones pass it...the real test is what comes out at the battery. I take it the stator is running at spec? I think I have a spare R/R for a ZX6R floating around but I'd imagine the 2 weeks until I get back is a bit too long to wait
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 07:11
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I wouldn't put too much faith in the tests. I've seen good R/Rs fail the diode tests and bad ones pass it...the real test is what comes out at the battery. Well the diode test seemed to confirm that my old R/R was a failure. I did it on the newer after market one just now and it also failed on one of the connections. I did manage to restart the bike, plugging in the multi meter into the battery only with the bike running only produced about 11.x volts even when I revved it. I thought it might be the battery just not hold enough charge. But looks like the new er R/R is a possibly failure again. I'll probably replace it and get a new battery in ther as well. Luckily I managed to get it home by riding it, somehow keeping it at a constant 6k rpm seemed to keep it going. I made it to the driveway and the bike gave out Theres a 1 year warranty on the Regulator/Rectifier from electrosport, apparently they're under new ownership. I'll have to give them a call.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 07:47
|
|
|
If the battery is screwed (and it definitely is), then it's impossible to get a good reading on the voltage. I'd start with a new battery and go from there. If your bike is constantly eating R/Rs, then it sounds like there might be a problem with the stator, but if you haven't replaced the battery that's definitely where you should start. You can run it if you keep it over 6k because at that RPM the charging system would output enough power to keep running the coils. Which is why I think it's not a bad charging system, just a shorted battery that's eating up all the juice. But as always, this is just a guess on things. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jun 26, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 15:18
|
|
|
Well managed to charge the battery to 12.x volts so maybe it's ok, I started it back up today and remeasured the voltage on the battery with the bike running, still under 12 volts. Redid diode test on the R/R with it removed from the bike, looks like one of the connections is bad, one of the readings for the bottom diode is reading under .400. The voltage from the alternator wires seemed to be reading ok. I'll see what I can do about getting a new R/R under warranty, guess i'll need to order another battery too just in case edit: I hate electrical problems.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 19:02
|
|
|
infraboy posted:Well managed to charge the battery to 12.x volts so maybe it's ok, I started it back up today and remeasured the voltage on the battery with the bike running, still under 12 volts. Redid diode test on the R/R with it removed from the bike, looks like one of the connections is bad, one of the readings for the bottom diode is reading under .400. The voltage from the alternator wires seemed to be reading ok. You can sometimes still charge a bad battery up to full, it just won't hold a charge. I'd take it into a car place (or batteries plus) and have them check it out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2010 19:41
|
|
|
Interestingly, I revved it up a bit while running, the voltage from the battery managed to jump up to just over 12 volts, but no more than that. I wonder if it is just the battery unable to hold enough charge (it seems a bit wet with acid) or my R/R. is almost completely fried to but not quite |:^|. Argh it's annoying because I can't really do anything until next week.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2010 06:11
|
|
|
I couldn't get my Honda C70 past 40 mph, it's supposed to top out a bit faster. So I tightened the throttle cable, which was a little loose. I was able to get it up to 47 like that. But during the test ride, it started sputtering and losing power periodically, and stalling every time I came to a stop, particularly if I put it in neutral. It wouldn't immediately start again, but after a minute or two of trying, it would. When this started happening I started messing with the idle screw and the pilot screw (which could only go half a turn, since it has a limiter cap). Now I can't get the thing to idle at all, and it will only start with great difficulty at like 2/3 throttle. I took the carb apart again, cleaned it more thoroughly, and put it back together to what I believe to be spec (I'm not entirely sure what "lightly seated" means in the manual re: the pilot screw), but nothing has changed. I tried putting the throttle cable back to the loose only-goes-40mph state it was in before, too, and it didn't make a difference. Any ideas as to what went wrong? I didn't change anything that wasn't changed back at some point with no improvement. Where else should I be looking but the carb?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 00:41
|
|
|
Gearbox question. This morning when I got to work I tried to put the bike in neutral whilst stopped and it reeeeeeeeeally didn't want to do it, and continued this behaviour this arvo on way home, basically could only get it whilst moving. It was also thunking a bit more than usual on downshifts. This is unusual as I can usually get it at a stop really easily. Does this indicate anything bad? Only thing I've done to it lately was half-arsed a shift that caused a bit of grinding after getting a false neutral.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 10:43
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:Gearbox question. This morning when I got to work I tried to put the bike in neutral whilst stopped and it reeeeeeeeeally didn't want to do it, and continued this behaviour this arvo on way home, basically could only get it whilst moving. It was also thunking a bit more than usual on downshifts. This is unusual as I can usually get it at a stop really easily. Does this indicate anything bad? Only thing I've done to it lately was half-arsed a shift that caused a bit of grinding after getting a false neutral. What kind of bike? Hondas as pretty notorious for doing this at times.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 15:16
|
|
|
My gearbox gets a bit rougher when I'm low on oil, might as well give it a check if you haven't already.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 16:01
|
|
|
Also, check the clutch lever free play. My transmission has been getting clunky lately and I just realized it was because my cable had stretched a bit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 16:11
|
|
|
Okay: 1979 CB750K (DOHC). The carbs are remanufactured, but I still had to clean the accelerator pump due to it not working. Valve clearance is good (everything's .005" or above at this point), carbs sync'd. 20k estimated (the cluster was replaced last year with 19k on it, and I've gone maybe 1000 miles since but probably much less). The bike runs perfectly well most of the time, but requires the most infinitismal amount of choke unless it's been running for more than 20 minutes. I mean, you leave the choke like 2% pulled. If it goes in before that point, you risk stalling at stoplights. Now, the problem I had last year was that the bike would not idle below an indicated 1000-1100 RPM. This was resolved by unscrewing the pilots another turn (they're now roughly 2.5 turns out, maybe closer to 3), which allowed me to drop the idle speed a bit more. The tach is wonderfully useless, so it's an indicated 900 or so RPM, but if I drop it more, I can *hear* the internals struggling, so I just leave it where it is. Now, despite all this, if I sit in traffic on a day when it's over 70 degrees, the bike overheats. Not immediately, but after a good five minutes or so (say, waiting in traffic for a tollbooth). I assume some of this is just air-cooled quirkiness, but I'm not sure if the aforementioned problems are just being band-aided by my adjustments. I have an oil cooler I've been too lazy to install which might help a bit, but again: am I bandaiding this? I've read a bit on how ethanol increases temperatures, so maybe that's partially to blame, and I should be running a little rich at this point, so I don't think I'm getting a lean heatup going on. So the symptoms indicate issues with overheating...and not warming up enough not to need a bit of choke. I'm afraid my idle circuit might be clogged (as this seems the most likely scenario), but these carbs were spotless. What do you guys think?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:14
|
|
|
What do the spark plugs look like?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:38
|
|
|
I've been thinking of selling my 05 Ninja 636 a lot lately to buy a DRZ or maybe KLR to convert. The thing is that bike has 25k on the clock and rashy fairings, but a rebuilt trans and aftermarket warranty, as well as all the go fast/look good bits. About how much would high miles drop the value? There is really no shortage of similar sportbikes on CL, all having around 2k miles and selling for 5-6k. If I can't hope for 5k or more, I'd probably just keep the bike, as it's a solid commuter and comfortable for me.  Click here for the full 1200x900 image.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:46
|
|
|
I'd say the mileage, rebuilt trans and rashyness are whats going to hurt you the most. I'd ballpark it more in the 3-4K range.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:48
|
|
|
Why does your front fairing look like the stitching on a baseball?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:56
|
|
|
The NonBornKing posted:What do the spark plugs look like? Good question. I'll check to see if they indicate a lean condition; I hesitate to unscrew the pilots too much, but in the worst case scenario, I just clean the carbs again. I did it so often in the last few years I can get the stupid things off the bike in like 15 minutes like a robot.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 17:59
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:I'd say the mileage, rebuilt trans and rashyness are whats going to hurt you the most. drat, that's even lower than I figured. Option B is to bring it inside for the winter, overhaul it, and see how many miles I can pile on. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Why does your front fairing look like the stitching on a baseball? Original owner crashed and half repaired it (those are zip ties). Same dumbass who changed the gearing and didn't fix the speedo, so the mileage is artificially high.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 18:15
|
|
|
Afternoon, Honda DOHC fans. My formerly pristine tank now suffers from Monty Clift/Harvey Dent Syndrome thanks to fuel weeping out of the cap. I think in one case I was guilty of overfilling, but I now know: a) these don't have HD's nifty little oversqueeze chamber, so back off a bit. b) use the center stand whenever possible. Still, it seems to have a problem and I don't want to invest in new paint until it's solved. This is possibly a function of the bike getting more use in the past two weeks than the past decade. Cursory reading thus far points to possible blocked/kinked overflow or breather tubes, and the cap seal. Anything else to look for based on your experiences?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 19:19
|
|
|
Gnaghi posted:Original owner crashed and half repaired it (those are zip ties). Same dumbass who changed the gearing and didn't fix the speedo, so the mileage is artificially high. Huh? What does gearing/engine speed have to do with the speedo? Did the PO change the tires size or something?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 19:21
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:Huh? What does gearing/engine speed have to do with the speedo? Did the PO change the tires size or something? Newer bikes measure speed off the countershaft sprocket (or rather the countershaft itself), so when you gear it shorter, the bike thinks its going faster than it is, despite the actual wheel speed not changing for a given mph.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 19:36
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:Huh? What does gearing/engine speed have to do with the speedo? Did the PO change the tires size or something? He changed the engine sprocket to a smaller one without recalibrating the speedometer, which means it was always reading faster then the bike was actually going, thus counting on more miles. Edit: Argh, beaten with a better response.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 19:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 02:51 |
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Newer bikes measure speed off the countershaft sprocket (or rather the countershaft itself), so when you gear it shorter, the bike thinks its going faster than it is, despite the actual wheel speed not changing for a given mph. Well I'll be damned. Is that why speedo healers are so common? I know that changing sprockets is much more common than changing wheel diameters.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2010 19:44
|
|