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Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски
So after 2 years of living in Chicago, I have quickly become very jealous of everyone i see with a kick rear end moped.
I really really want one and have saved up a little for one. A quick craigslist search yeilded this.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/mcy/1795600579.html
I have no idea if this is a good buy or not and what i should look out for. I might go check this thing out today and talk him down 50 bucks.


Impulse buy like a motherfucker.

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ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Preoptopus posted:

So after 2 years of living in Chicago, I have quickly become very jealous of everyone i see with a kick rear end moped.
I really really want one and have saved up a little for one. A quick craigslist search yeilded this.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/mcy/1795600579.html
I have no idea if this is a good buy or not and what i should look out for. I might go check this thing out today and talk him down 50 bucks.


Impulse buy like a motherfucker.

http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/2/343853/343853/

This is a better bike for the price, IMO. Puchs are incredibly easy to work on and have tons of aftermarket and replacement parts. That one is in good shape, too. It's too much for a stock newport, but it's also Chicago...

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски
Guy replied with

'I would say that it's not in every day working order. It starts fine,
but then it takes about 10 minutes of putting around, applying full
throttle, to warm up and then it takes off. It has a tendency to die
when idling, so my diagnosis is that it has some sort of intake issue.
I called one scooter dealer who quoted $60 an hour for work, and my
guess it that it would only take someone who knew what they were doing
an hour to tune it up. "


Thinking walk, emailed ShaneB's suggestion... Thanks!

Gay Nudist Dad
Dec 12, 2006

asshole on a scooter
So a German fellow on ADV Rider posted these pics, with this comment:

quote:

I suppose these are considered scooters. I was riding the Grossglocknerstrasse in the Austrian Alps the other day when these bad boys showed up! They don't require plates but they had Czech Republic stickers. They're much faster than they look! No Air Filters and a nice big tank, I want one!

Apparently they were passing automobiles as well.


Click here for the full 800x531 image.


Click here for the full 800x531 image.


Click here for the full 800x531 image.


Anyone know what they are? I've never lusted after a 'ped like I'm lusting after those. They're awesome looking.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




The engine design screams Sachs to me, but I couldnt tell you what the bike is. Doesnt really look like anything that came to the states.

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




Going off the label on the gas tank, it's a Stadion:

http://www.jawamoped.com/html/stadion_info.html

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Sold all my poo poo besides a few bearings and gaskets last night. New tuned green maxi going to get picked up this weekend, the anticipation is unbearable.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Ugh, not one but TWO clean looking Hobbits in Cleveland, where I'm going to be getting my Maxi.... I really can't come home with two bikes, but I really want a Hobbit project.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


My new puch owns. E50, K-Star kit, 14 bing, tecno circuit, tuned clutch, yadda yadda. Tons of power throughout the powerband, and ultra smooth. I was cruising at 40-42 at about 1/2-2/3 throttle, and 35mph at like 1/4-1/3 throttle, just testing out the ride and seeing how everything was. It was actually hard to just go 30-35mph because the bike just wants to go. It tops out at about 48mph.

Found Your Answer
Jul 9, 2004

That's like killing a unicorn!

ShaneB posted:

My new puch owns. E50, K-Star kit, 14 bing, tecno circuit, tuned clutch, yadda yadda. Tons of power throughout the powerband, and ultra smooth. I was cruising at 40-42 at about 1/2-2/3 throttle, and 35mph at like 1/4-1/3 throttle, just testing out the ride and seeing how everything was. It was actually hard to just go 30-35mph because the bike just wants to go. It tops out at about 48mph.

Damnnnn that's awesome. I have a similar set up (E50, 70cc treats "k-star", 15mm bing, proma gp) but I'm maxing at like 39mph right now... likely because of the metal mesh air-filter. I'm running a bit rich with an 86 jet even when I lean with the needle in the carb... I was thinking about getting smaller jets but I think I'm going to build a foam-filter out of those foam from my workplace and see if it's still running rich when I let it breathe a bit more.

Not totally sure what a tuned clutch is, but you should post pics of your new sweet bike!

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


windwaker posted:

Damnnnn that's awesome. I have a similar set up (E50, 70cc treats "k-star", 15mm bing, proma gp) but I'm maxing at like 39mph right now... likely because of the metal mesh air-filter. I'm running a bit rich with an 86 jet even when I lean with the needle in the carb... I was thinking about getting smaller jets but I think I'm going to build a foam-filter out of those foam from my workplace and see if it's still running rich when I let it breathe a bit more.

Not totally sure what a tuned clutch is, but you should post pics of your new sweet bike!

I have a metal mesh air filter. The guy who I got my bike from uses them on all his bing-powered Puchs, he says they are the best. I'm starting to think those 15 bings come with the wrong atomizer parts, because I couldn't get over 43 with a 15 bing on my old Puch, which had a ZA50 with a TCCD kit. Even with 18x36 gearing (stock was 18x40) I had fairly modest top speed and pretty bad low end.

Even things like your wheel bearings can pretty significantly impact your speed.

A tuned clutch means the clutch engages when the engine is reaching some actual power production. This is done by messing with or swapping the springs in your clutch, or getting a clutch that engages later already. If it engages too early and grabs when the engine isn't generating enough power, your low end will be trash. A tuned clutch means you can gear way down (up? I forget) to reach potentially higher speeds without sacrificing your low end. You can also control your top-speed RPMs by your gearing - you don't want to take a stock Puch crank much beyond 10k RPM, as an example.

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jun 28, 2010

OlDirtyBehrmann
Jun 19, 2002

Just A Little Bit Closer...

windwaker posted:

Damnnnn that's awesome. I have a similar set up (E50, 70cc treats "k-star", 15mm bing, proma gp) but I'm maxing at like 39mph right now... likely because of the metal mesh air-filter. I'm running a bit rich with an 86 jet even when I lean with the needle in the carb... I was thinking about getting smaller jets but I think I'm going to build a foam-filter out of those foam from my workplace and see if it's still running rich when I let it breathe a bit more.

Not totally sure what a tuned clutch is, but you should post pics of your new sweet bike!

You should be closer to an 80 or 82 jet. 86 is rich as gently caress and you probably have an airleak if you aren't 4-stroking like mad. I run an 80 in my magnum with a 70 kstar, 15 bing, boss pipe and 17x45 gearing and hit 45-46 on level ground, over 50 downhill. Tuning the clutch means that you adjust the clutch spring tension so that it fully engages just as your pipe is hitting the powerband. It will improve low end because it allows the clutch to slip more when the engine isn't making much torque. All you have to do it turn the adjustment screws in on the clutch after you pull it out(you need a clutch puller). Also, the proma gp sucks for high end(and is kind of a poo poo pipe in general, all the cheap ones are), so you will want to gear up by buying and installing a larger front sprocket or smaller rear sprocket if you want to go faster.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


OlDirtyBehrmann posted:

Also, the proma gp sucks for high end(and is kind of a poo poo pipe in general, all the cheap ones are),

Between the Proma GP and the Tecno Circuit, the Proma is a laugh (I've had them both). The Tecno is great, especially for the cost. If you don't mind the build quality.

OlDirtyBehrmann
Jun 19, 2002

Just A Little Bit Closer...
Except that you can get an estoril or proma circuit for a few dollars more and have a vastly superior pipe.

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

ShaneB posted:

I have a metal mesh air filter. The guy who I got my bike from uses them on all his bing-powered Puchs, he says they are the best.

The guy you bought your moped from is insane.

Besides from that, get a 19mm. D'elorto or Mikuni.

Bing carburetors are jokes. Bad jokes. I could probably make a more useful carburetor of an empty Budwiser can and a straw.

Also, if you insist on pod filters (they kind of make reason on a Puch Maxi, though), try to search http://www.apexi-usa.com/categories/?id=3082 Apexi for something that "kind of fits". You won't regret it.

Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Jun 29, 2010

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Nothing could have prevented it except her paying attention. I had time to grab the brakes, but they didn't slow me down at all by the time I hit her truck. There was no time to react. She admitted to the cops that she was on her cell phone, so it was a clear case of serious lack of attention.
Hahaha and she still has a license?

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

evil_bunnY posted:

Hahaha and she still has a license?

Easy now. Posting this from my HTC. There's absolutely nothing wrong wit..................aaaaaaaargh.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


OlDirtyBehrmann posted:

Except that you can get an estoril or proma circuit for a few dollars more and have a vastly superior pipe.

The Proma circuit is $35 more (not a big deal in the long run, no), but the Tecno can frequently top out a few mph more, depending on the setup. Estoril is a solid pipe, yep. They frequently require re-welding, it seems, though. My buddy has one that has been re-welded 3 times now. I mean the baffle falls off the Tecno circuit frequently, too, so it's not like any of these cheaper pipes are made all that well.

Blaster of Justice posted:

The guy you bought your moped from is insane.

Besides from that, get a 19mm. D'elorto or Mikuni.

Bing carburetors are jokes. Bad jokes. I could probably make a more useful carburetor of an empty Budwiser can and a straw.

Also, if you insist on pod filters (they kind of make reason on a Puch Maxi, though), try to search http://www.apexi-usa.com/categories/?id=3082 Apexi for something that "kind of fits". You won't regret it.

I won't deny that, he's in his late 40's and has been tuning 2-stroke bikes for some 30 years, and is a weird guy. However, he knows how to tune a bike. For a cheap fast bike, a 14mm bing and a metal mesh filter goes quite quickly. Additionally, people can go 50+ on a Polini with a cheap 15mm bing... it's not like they are truly trash.

I'd eventually like to move to a PHBG, yeah, but for now the bike is tuned well, starts with a quarterkick, idles well, and rips to high 40s on a cheap K-star kit.

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Jun 29, 2010

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Preoptopus posted:

Guy replied with

'I would say that it's not in every day working order. It starts fine,
but then it takes about 10 minutes of putting around, applying full
throttle, to warm up and then it takes off. It has a tendency to die
when idling, so my diagnosis is that it has some sort of intake issue.
I called one scooter dealer who quoted $60 an hour for work, and my
guess it that it would only take someone who knew what they were doing
an hour to tune it up. "


Thinking walk, emailed ShaneB's suggestion... Thanks!

This is probably a really easy fix that you would have to learn how to do in the long run anyway... Get him to lower his price, it's not selling on Moped Army and he keeps bumping the thread, and added some more photos.

OlDirtyBehrmann
Jun 19, 2002

Just A Little Bit Closer...

ShaneB posted:

The Proma circuit is $35 more (not a big deal in the long run, no), but the Tecno can frequently top out a few mph more, depending on the setup. Estoril is a solid pipe, yep. They frequently require re-welding, it seems, though. My buddy has one that has been re-welded 3 times now. I mean the baffle falls off the Tecno circuit frequently, too, so it's not like any of these cheaper pipes are made all that well.


Dude, you had to buy someone elses bike because you couldn't tune your own. You should really stop trying to give advice.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


OlDirtyBehrmann posted:

Dude, you had to buy someone elses bike because you couldn't tune your own. You should really stop trying to give advice.

I'm just repeating what I know to be the case. I'll stop trying to help and let you handle things here, then.

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

ShaneB posted:

I'm just repeating what I know to be the case. I'll stop trying to help and let you handle things here, then.

You're alright. You don't give really catastrophically bad advise, and your learning process is kind of entertaining. OlDirtyBehrmann should shut the gently caress up or contribute something of value.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



evil_bunnY posted:

Hahaha and she still has a license?

Still legal to drive on your cell in Pennsylvania, unfortunately.

OlDirtyBehrmann
Jun 19, 2002

Just A Little Bit Closer...

Blaster of Justice posted:

You're alright. You don't give really catastrophically bad advise, and your learning process is kind of entertaining. OlDirtyBehrmann should shut the gently caress up or contribute something of value.

Maybe you should read my previous posts where I contribute valid topical information and then consider providing some of your own if you have anything to say other than that you can make a better carb than a bing with a beer can. I'm more than happy to contribute to this discussion, but it is somewhat tiresome to see constant misinformation, deliberate or otherwise, being thrown about when a little good advice and a lot of studying up on the various resources available to the moped community would move things along tremendously without having page after page of "What end does the gas go in?" and "What does lean mean?".

Found Your Answer
Jul 9, 2004

That's like killing a unicorn!

OlDirtyBehrmann posted:

You should be closer to an 80 or 82 jet. 86 is rich as gently caress and you probably have an airleak if you aren't 4-stroking like mad. I run an 80 in my magnum with a 70 kstar, 15 bing, boss pipe and 17x45 gearing and hit 45-46 on level ground, over 50 downhill. Tuning the clutch means that you adjust the clutch spring tension so that it fully engages just as your pipe is hitting the powerband. It will improve low end because it allows the clutch to slip more when the engine isn't making much torque. All you have to do it turn the adjustment screws in on the clutch after you pull it out(you need a clutch puller). Also, the proma gp sucks for high end(and is kind of a poo poo pipe in general, all the cheap ones are), so you will want to gear up by buying and installing a larger front sprocket or smaller rear sprocket if you want to go faster.

Nahh, 86 is rich but it definitely isn't 4-stroke level, especially after reading a bunch of MA posts of people running that jet on the same setups to break in their kits (which is kind of dumb for a k-star anyway?). It does 4-stroke when I go WOT with the needle on the richest setting though.

Thanks, I'm going to check out a different pipe and tuning the clutch (I'm surprised, I read moped army all the time and people rarely recommend any clutch adjustments).

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




Finished up my K-star install tonight, but had one boo-boo: I used a larger torque wrench initially to torque the head-bolts, and gave a ballpark guess as to 12 lbs/inch. I bought a new torque wrench from Harbor Freight with smaller increments, but it apparently doesn't work. Guess how I know?

So now one nut is tight, but in that way that you can still tighten it a bit and it feels like I stripped a thread. I didn't mess with it to see if it gets worse, but I left the rest of the bolts alone after that one.

Bike started up like a charm, ran ok for a bit, ran around the apartment, shut it off.

Should I be good for break in at this point? I assume, given all the steps, if something's hosed up, it'll show up then. I figure if that stud/nut are an issue, I'll just lock-tite the stud into the block and use a new nut.

But on the plus side, after every other thing I did revealed a new problem, this really did turn out to be a case of slapping a kit on and it working. I'm certainly on a rich jet (88 for a 15mm bing/boss pipe), but I figure I'll get it broken in and do my jetting from there.

cinder
Aug 25, 2000
Finally got my avanti mont (vertical garelli) together with the mec eur 75cc kit, 21mm d-slide and simonini exhaust! Some clearance issues require me to bump start it, but it hits the band very smoothly and I have been hooning it up around my apartment complex.

One issue that I am having is a flat spot in the low end. It will foul plugs and seem like it's running rich from 0-1/2 throttle. At WOT it runs great, hits the pipe but seems to run out of fuel on the top end. I have about 15 different main jets to try out, so I think I can squeeze out a little more on the top end, but I'd really like to sort out the issues off the line.

So far, I'm thinking change the needle position, but I'm not confident that will smooth everything out. I am running a 25:1 premix (brand new kit) with motul 2t and 87 oct at the moment, so this may be contributing to the problem.

Specs are:

stock CDI ignition
NGK B7HS
Mec Eur 75cc jug and piston
OKO 21mm carb
Simonini Exhaust
Polini 20mm intake pipe
CR80 throttle tube

I should also note that I had to add some tubing to the intake after the carb because it's a spigot style carb, so the distance from the carb to the intake port is a bit longer than it would normally be. Also, this is the 2-speed running 30wt non-detergent.

Loving it, though! Would appreciate some tuning advice =)

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I picked up a rigid Maxi for a steal that needed controls/cables/wiring, and got an entire new 2hp top end, controls, cables, headlight, 14mm bing/intake, etc for a great price on MA buy/sell. Should be running by the end of this week. I am really really wanting to get the frame powdercoated, but I'll make it run first, then strip it down and coat it.

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

For all you Los Angeles moped goons:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/mcy/1839168422.html

Found Your Answer
Jul 9, 2004

That's like killing a unicorn!

Shlomo Palestein posted:

Finished up my K-star install tonight, but had one boo-boo: I used a larger torque wrench initially to torque the head-bolts, and gave a ballpark guess as to 12 lbs/inch. I bought a new torque wrench from Harbor Freight with smaller increments, but it apparently doesn't work. Guess how I know?

So now one nut is tight, but in that way that you can still tighten it a bit and it feels like I stripped a thread. I didn't mess with it to see if it gets worse, but I left the rest of the bolts alone after that one.

Bike started up like a charm, ran ok for a bit, ran around the apartment, shut it off.

Should I be good for break in at this point? I assume, given all the steps, if something's hosed up, it'll show up then. I figure if that stud/nut are an issue, I'll just lock-tite the stud into the block and use a new nut.

But on the plus side, after every other thing I did revealed a new problem, this really did turn out to be a case of slapping a kit on and it working. I'm certainly on a rich jet (88 for a 15mm bing/boss pipe), but I figure I'll get it broken in and do my jetting from there.

I just did this install pretty much, and while I did heat-cycle a few times, most people on Moped Army will tell you that you do not need to break in a K-Star.

George RR Fartin
Apr 16, 2003




Ok, so I definitely have an air leak (head to cylinder), and I think it's because the head nut won't tighten further. For reference (S = sparkplug, x = nut):

x ----- x <--It's this nut

----S----

x ----- x

...now, knowing this is just a nut on a threaded rod, what could have stripped to cause this? I'm gonna disassemble it soon, but I just want to know what to prepare for.

Also, 88 is way too rich; the plug is straight black. From idling. For five minutes.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Shlomo Palestein posted:

Ok, so I definitely have an air leak (head to cylinder), and I think it's because the head nut won't tighten further. For reference (S = sparkplug, x = nut):

x ----- x <--It's this nut

----S----

x ----- x

...now, knowing this is just a nut on a threaded rod, what could have stripped to cause this? I'm gonna disassemble it soon, but I just want to know what to prepare for.

Also, 88 is way too rich; the plug is straight black. From idling. For five minutes.

I've stripped bolts for no good reason before. Replace the threaded rod and you should be good to go.

Also idling is a great way to foul a plug, that's really not a good way to get a plug read for your jetting at all! If you have a leak you can't check your jetting reliably at all, anyway.

I spent the evening draining fluids, replacing tranny fluid, and fixing up the wiring on the rigid. Someone did some weird hack job on the wiring and I just stripped it down to the basics. Right now I have a spark and the headlight is wired to run. Unfortunately I can't test start it for lack of a drive chain... :(

I got my five stars today from the dude in the Netherlands, and took them straight to the powdercoater. They are getting sandblasted and a mid-gloss black is going on, maybe as soon as tomorrow. A new set of IRC NR53's are going to go on ASAP and will replace my lovely out of true spokes on my maxi.
edit: drat this avatar. i gotta drop $5 on a new one...

ShaneB fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jul 13, 2010

OlDirtyBehrmann
Jun 19, 2002

Just A Little Bit Closer...
gently caress! Back wheel went all sloppy while I was trying out my new gazelles. When I pulled it back off the wheel was all cracked to poo poo. At least it didn't completely fail while I was taking a hard corner or something.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

cinder
Aug 25, 2000

Shlomo Palestein posted:

Ok, so I definitely have an air leak (head to cylinder), and I think it's because the head nut won't tighten further. For reference (S = sparkplug, x = nut):

x ----- x <--It's this nut

----S----

x ----- x

...now, knowing this is just a nut on a threaded rod, what could have stripped to cause this? I'm gonna disassemble it soon, but I just want to know what to prepare for.

Also, 88 is way too rich; the plug is straight black. From idling. For five minutes.

I've had this happen before when assembling dirt bike motors - For me, the cause was the threaded stud had come loose and was just spinning with the nut attached to it. I torqued the stud down and was able to tighten the nut to spec afterwards.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


These new five stars were way more work than they are worth... I think.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

Shlomo Palestein posted:

...now, knowing this is just a nut on a threaded rod, what could have stripped to cause this? I'm gonna disassemble it soon, but I just want to know what to prepare for.

Prepare for a helicoil in the block.

GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl

Blaster of Justice posted:

Prepare for a helicoil in the block.
Or a set of bolt extractors

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Every time I turn a non-runner into a runner I realize why I love this hobby. The feeling of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I got my rigid Maxi running tonight after sourcing a bunch of used/replacement parts via MA buy/sell. Turned a rolling frame with a bottom end into a 30mph stock bike. Hardwiring was way easier than I expected, to be honest. Once I get the kill switch installed and maybe clean up the wiring a little this thing is good to go.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002






Ugly, but works.

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GOLDMAN SACHS PARTY
Sep 2, 2004

by Fistgrrl
if the bike was in bad condition when you got it, make sure you check that the second exhaust gasket is intact (the one between the header and rest of the pipe)

any problems with that gasket will cause it to run super lean. ask me how i know.

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