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Crayvex posted:Well I'll be damned. Is that why speedo healers are so common? I know that changing sprockets is much more common than changing wheel diameters. Yeah. I fixed it with a speedohealer, but they aren't as great as everyone makes them out to be. Overpriced and still not plug-and-play, even with version 4.
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Jun 28, 2010 20:31
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Crayvex posted:Well I'll be damned. Is that why speedo healers are so common? I know that changing sprockets is much more common than changing wheel diameters. Thats precisely why they're so common.
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Jun 28, 2010 21:54
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Doctor Zero posted:What kind of bike? Hondas as pretty notorious for doing this at times. Not a Honda, K5 Gix 1000. Ola posted:My gearbox gets a bit rougher when I'm low on oil, might as well give it a check if you haven't already. I hadn't thought of that actually, I'll have to check it. Edit: Noticed this morning that when I was trying to roll back in gear with the clutch lever pulled in it was very hard, lot of resistance. That would indicate that the clutch cable isn't adjudted properly wouldn't it? 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 28, 2010 23:50
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats precisely why they're so common. Why do people change the sprockets so often on bikes? On CL about half the sportbikes have some type of changed gearing, usually shorter it seems. Do 600CC sport bikes not accelerate fast enough for normal people? Or is a 160ish top speed not enough either? I'd kind of understand if it were a track bike but for street use it seems silly.
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Jun 29, 2010 06:36
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infraboy posted:Why do people change the sprockets so often on bikes? On CL about half the sportbikes have some type of changed gearing, usually shorter it seems. Do 600CC sport bikes not accelerate fast enough for normal people? Or is a 160ish top speed not enough either? Shorter = more torque, lower top speed Taller = less torque, higher top speed The former is usually for people wanting to power wheelie and such, or for track riders that don't end up using the entire speed range on the track (faster acceleration). The latter is usually for people who want to lower the cruising RPM on the highway (comparable speeds from stock are achieved lower in the rev range). If you look at stunt bikes, you'll very often see a giant dinner plate sprocket on the rear. edit: In short, yes, shorter gearing on powerful street bikes is kind of a moot point unless yer pulin mad stuntz breh AncientTV fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 06:40
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So if i want to do long road tours on my KLR it would make sense to put a smaller rear sprocket up in there?
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Jun 29, 2010 06:55
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AncientTV posted:edit: In short, yes, shorter gearing on powerful street bikes is kind of a moot point unless yer pulin mad stuntz breh In short, yes, stock gearing on powerful street bikes is kind of a moot point unless yer pulin a buck-eighty down the hiway breh
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Jun 29, 2010 06:56
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infraboy posted:Why do people change the sprockets so often on bikes? On CL about half the sportbikes have some type of changed gearing, usually shorter it seems. Do 600CC sport bikes not accelerate fast enough for normal people? Or is a 160ish top speed not enough either? Down one up two on a stock 600 wakes the bike up a shitload. Also, complaining about mild gearing changes on a 600cc supersport saying it seems silly for the street is ridiculous, the bikes are already huge overkill in the first place. I don't need first to top out at 85mph, so I deal with shorter gearing and some touchiness for curing a lot of the down low lag that 600s seem to have with stock gearing. Dropping gearing also puts the bike in the power at fairly lower speeds, which is pretty nice on back roads where you don't want to be way up there in speed but want to have fun. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 07:32
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I'm down a tooth in the front on the SF and it's perfect. As stated, I don't need to go 170 on a daily basis. I'll take the grunt down low. Even down a tooth it still lugs along at barely 3k RPM in 6th gear at 70. Regearing makes a ton of sense when you have way to much top speed to use in the first place.
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Jun 29, 2010 07:35
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Zool posted:In short, yes, stock gearing on powerful street bikes is kind of a moot point unless yer pulin a buck-eighty down the hiway breh BlackMK4 posted:Down one up two on a stock 600 wakes the bike up a shitload. Also, complaining about mild gearing changes on a 600cc supersport saying it seems silly for the street is ridiculous, the bikes are already huge overkill in the first place. Fair enough  niethan posted:So if i want to do long road tours on my KLR it would make sense to put a smaller rear sprocket up in there? Yea, you'll lose a bit of acceleration, but it'll be less vibey, and your gas mileage will see a boost.
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Jun 29, 2010 07:38
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infraboy posted:Why do people change the sprockets so often on bikes? On CL about half the sportbikes have some type of changed gearing, usually shorter it seems. Do 600CC sport bikes not accelerate fast enough for normal people? Or is a 160ish top speed not enough either? People do it on sportbikes mostly because it gives them some extra thrust around town, and the 10 or 15 mph it shaves off the top end isn't noticeable pretty much ever. I went shorter on the Bandit (+3 in the rear) because its geared pretty tall from the factory, and going shorter puts it in a better part of the powerband on the highway. My top speed went from something like 145mph to 139 according to the gearing spreadsheet. So in real life, I'll never miss that speed because I don't track it (even if I did, I probably still wouldnt miss it), and it wont hit that speed at the drag strip anyway. I havent noticed any gas mileage changes one way or the other. Even more thrust than a 1200 Bandit normally provides in-town, and better highway drivability, for a loss of top-end speed I'll never really see is a no-brainer. On my RV90, I went taller (-4 in the rear) because its geared for off-road riding, and at most normal street speeds (35-45mph) its screaming like crazy, so gearing it taller makes it more livable at those speeds, with the added side benefit of better mpg. I lost some off-the-line speed, but I feel its a good trade off. So theres reasons for going both ways. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 15:48
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On the flipside, I reverted my CBR600F2 from +whatever in the rear to stock and I like it a lot better. Acceleration seems the same and it cruises a good 1,000 or so RPM less in 6th gear, which is loads better for comfort. However, my bike is from the '90s so it doesn't have the neutered midrange of modern 600s.
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Jun 29, 2010 16:16
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So every 500-600 miles or so my chain seems to stretch out real loose. This has happened twice so far and already happening again. I've been tightening my chain to the spec in my Clymers manual everytime I clean and lube my chain (every 400-500 miles). Am I doing something wrong? Also, if the chain stretches out too much, should I get a chain breaker and remove a link?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:14
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How old is the chain? If it's constantly stretching out, if might be time to replace it. If it's not that old, could be something is loose/worn with the slack adjuster or the wheel is misaligned maybe?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:28
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ari.gato posted:So every 500-600 miles or so my chain seems to stretch out real loose. This has happened twice so far and already happening again. I've been tightening my chain to the spec in my Clymers manual everytime I clean and lube my chain (every 400-500 miles). Am I doing something wrong? If it's stretching that much it's probably time to replace it. You do not want to find out what a chain does when it breaks when you're riding...
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Jun 29, 2010 19:29
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ari.gato posted:So every 500-600 miles or so my chain seems to stretch out real loose. This has happened twice so far and already happening again. I've been tightening my chain to the spec in my Clymers manual everytime I clean and lube my chain (every 400-500 miles). Am I doing something wrong? What sort of bike? Is it an O/X-ring chain, or a non-sealed chain? If you get to the end of your adjustment range on your swingarm, then you can pull a link out, but at that point its time to start looking at a new chain and sprockets.
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Jun 29, 2010 19:29
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It's a relatively new o-ring chain. has maybe 2k miles on it. What's the usual lifespan of a chain?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:39
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Like 10k miles at least
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Jun 29, 2010 19:43
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Maybe I was tightening the chain wrong. How much slack do you all leave in your chains when you adjust them?
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Jun 29, 2010 19:46
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ari.gato posted:Maybe I was tightening the chain wrong. How much slack do you all leave in your chains when you adjust them? I run about 1.5" or slightly more on a sportbike. Basically as much as I can without it smacking the poo poo out of the swingarm. If you have it too tight you're not letting the suspension work correctly and you're going to accelerate the wear your chain and sprockets.
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Jun 29, 2010 19:50
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Not a Honda, K5 Gix 1000. Yeah, you need to adjust the clutch cable. It's notchy going into neutral because you're never actually completely disengaging the transmission, and that's also why it's hard to push and it's not shifting well.
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Jun 29, 2010 20:37
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I can only intermittently get my C70 to start now. I got it to start after I took the carb off and leaned the pilot screw one full turn (it normally can only be turned 1/2 turn without taking it off...I may shave that limiter cap down), and it idled until the fuel ran out because I stupidly left the petcock in the off position. Since then, I've had it off a few times, tried a couple different pilot screw positions and messed with the idle screw, but I cannot get it to start. It comes closer to starting if I go on the throttle, but just sputters and stops, flooded, I think. Draining it changes nothing that kicking it once or twice doesn't change, though. Is there ANYTHING that could be the problem other than the carburetor? It DOES have spark, and the air filter isn't terribly dirty. Should I bother taking this to a shop, or just buy a new (supposed to be bolt-on-and-go) carb, given that there don't appear to be any rebuild kits for this carb (Keihin PB...the idle jet is not replaceable, for one thing). I'm almost certain that if it isn't just worn out to the extent that it will absolutely not stay in tune, the problem is with the float valve (but the float is at the proper level, so...) or the pilot jet. I can't see any way to check the pilot jet for certain, though.
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Jun 30, 2010 00:10
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I'm back. Summary: 1979 CB750, idles a bit odd, overheating and needs choke for longer than it should. Okay; checked spark plugs, they were fairly white and crusty. Lean condition! Let me run this by you guys: I bought this rack of carbs off an ebay seller two years ago. They were refurbished, have nickel plated allen bolts, the works. They came highly recommended in the CB750F forums. However: 1. I had to clean the accelerator pump with compressed air, as it was clogged. 2. One of the vacuum slides was incorrect. For lack of a better explanation, three were "flat" and one was "angled" on a side. Since I had the old carbs (which were mostly fine, and in retrospect would've probably worked if I spent more time cleaning/syncing them), I grabbed a matching "flat" slide and threw it in. Everything matching, I stuck the carbs in, sync'd them, and everything is as it is now. I've turned the pilot screws out a half turn and in my "sitting-in-the-parking-lot" test, it runs a lot less hot now and will do so without choke. But I'm now at something like 2 1/2 or 3 turns out on each of these, and that can't be right. So how likely does this sound: The aforementioned ebay seller rebuilt the carbs, but they're for a smaller bike (maybe a CB650 if it has the same rack spacing). He used smaller jets, and the bike runs leaner than it should as a result. I'm not sure this is a sound theory, given the bike gets to speed just fine. Just as likely of a 'the-seller-was-an-idiot' scenario is that he may have used kit jets, and maybe they were a bit too small. I dunno. But in any case, these carbs are clean as they should be, and I'm grasping for what else might make me lean short of an airleak, which I can't have (I know what an airleak is like; I chased one down for a while, and the bike isn't that erratic). I think I might just get colder plugs and call it a day.
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Jun 30, 2010 02:06
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So I'm getting a super moto soon and need to buy some real gear. On my sport bike I just wore regular boots, gauntlet gloves, a jacket, and helmet. I'm going to be doing mostly street ride but with the super moto insanity like riding up and around places I shouldn't I realize this is not enough and should invest in some new gear. Usually I'm partial to online but maybe they'll be some sales this weekend at the local shops and such. I'm due for pretty much all new gear as my jacket doesn't fit anymore and gloves are very worn. So I figure I need knee pads, new gauntlet style gloves, some real motorcycle boots, and a spine protector. My friend has some that almost look like a snow shoe and doesn't have any of that protective plastic all around it. But I don't assume they offer too much protection? Any particular brand or styles of the above to look for? I'll probably just end up getting it all at a store except for the jacket as I would feel bad trying on a bunch of poo poo and just taking off. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 03:53
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Christoff posted:So I figure I need knee pads, new gauntlet style gloves, some real motorcycle boots, and a spine protector. My friend has some that almost look like a snow shoe and doesn't have any of that protective plastic all around it. But I don't assume they offer too much protection? Seriously, buy some real protective pants. Knee pads + jeans are worthless. Also, don't be cheap, buy the best you can afford the first time or you'll end up spending more in the long run as you continuously buy more and more cause everything you got the first time was terrible. Ask me how I know this. And buy these boots cause they are awesome and make your legs feel invincible. http://www.motostrano.com/alsubote7sm.html Best moto related purchase I've made since my DRZ.
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Jun 30, 2010 04:35
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Absolutely get a set of huge supermoto boots. They rock. You absolutely do feel invincible with them, like you could kick down a tree.
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Jun 30, 2010 04:37
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Z3n posted:Yeah, you need to adjust the clutch cable. It's notchy going into neutral because you're never actually completely disengaging the transmission, and that's also why it's hard to push and it's not shifting well. Yeah, it was quite loose. Why? I had a look under the lever when I wound the adjuster back in, and went "eep." Starting to fray a bit. Looks like I'll be ringing around tomorrow.
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Jun 30, 2010 05:02
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So, I rode through hurricane rains today. Both the bike and me got incredibly soaked. Anyway, after going through a massive puddle that covered both me and my 2001 SV650 in a massive splash, it proceeded to refuse to idle until it stopped raining. Now it's back to idling fine, but I burned so much gas having to restart it, give it some throttle at stops, or just put on the choke to keep it going while it was soaked. Why would it not idle when soaked? I'm going to be checking electricals first, looking for possible exposed wires causing some sort of misfire. I have no idea how it could go from not idling at all to idling great just by drying out.
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Jun 30, 2010 05:31
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Weinertron posted:So, I rode through hurricane rains today. Both the bike and me got incredibly soaked. Anyway, after going through a massive puddle that covered both me and my 2001 SV650 in a massive splash, it proceeded to refuse to idle until it stopped raining. Now it's back to idling fine, but I burned so much gas having to restart it, give it some throttle at stops, or just put on the choke to keep it going while it was soaked. I doubt it can breathe well with water in the air filter
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Jun 30, 2010 06:21
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^^^drat you and your two and a half minute headstart!^^^^Weinertron posted:So, I rode through hurricane rains today. Both the bike and me got incredibly soaked. Anyway, after going through a massive puddle that covered both me and my 2001 SV650 in a massive splash, it proceeded to refuse to idle until it stopped raining. Now it's back to idling fine, but I burned so much gas having to restart it, give it some throttle at stops, or just put on the choke to keep it going while it was soaked.
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Jun 30, 2010 06:24
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Is there anything that could cause my bike which has air and spark to not start that does lie within the carburetor? I THINK I've narrowed it down to the float valve (which looks like it is PROBABLY okay, but the symptom...flooding when it does run, running too rich to start when it doesn't run...seems consistent with it) or the pilot jet. If it's the latter, I probably can't fix it. Should I bother taking it to a mechanic (there is one literally 300 feet from here, I can push the thing there), or just go buy a new carb? Alternately, is there some magic trick to tuning a Keihin PB that I just don't know?
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Jun 30, 2010 07:39
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Weinertron posted:So, I rode through hurricane rains today. Both the bike and me got incredibly soaked. Anyway, after going through a massive puddle that covered both me and my 2001 SV650 in a massive splash, it proceeded to refuse to idle until it stopped raining. Now it's back to idling fine, but I burned so much gas having to restart it, give it some throttle at stops, or just put on the choke to keep it going while it was soaked. SV's drop the front cylinder a lot in heavy rain, making the bike a 322.5cc single. Check that your front spark plug drain hole is clear and give the wiring a spray with a water dispersant/coat of silicone. a fenda extenda or a diy spray shield just under the radiator will help
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Jun 30, 2010 12:04
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pr0zac posted:Seriously, buy some real protective pants. Knee pads + jeans are worthless. Also, don't be cheap, buy the best you can afford the first time or you'll end up spending more in the long run as you continuously buy more and more cause everything you got the first time was terrible. Ask me how I know this. Thanks for the advice. I do have a riding suit and I'm going to he honest and say pants or a suit Is just not somethng I'm going to wear 100% of the time depending on where I'm going etc. I figured knee pads would suffice as get up and go etc.
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Jun 30, 2010 17:28
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VideoTapir posted:Is there anything that could cause my bike which has air and spark to not start that does lie within the carburetor? Have you already torn it down? Replacing the pilot jet is very easy if you've already gotten the carb torn down, just remove the old one with a screwdriver and install the new one. On the stalling SV front, water got in the front cylinder, there's basically no way to get water into the air filter, it'd have to follow basically an impossible route to get into the top of the airbox, unless you submerged the bike up to the tank.
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Jun 30, 2010 18:50
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Z3n posted:Have you already torn it down? Replacing the pilot jet is very easy if you've already gotten the carb torn down, just remove the old one with a screwdriver and install the new one. Not on that carb. It's pressed-in. I'm mainly wondering if I'm missing any possibilities.
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Jun 30, 2010 19:01
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VideoTapir posted:Not on that carb. It's pressed-in. Oh. My bad.  Have you tried running a wire through it to clear it out?
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Jun 30, 2010 19:04
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No....didn't think of that. I tried blowing through it, dripping alcohol down it, and blowing alcohol down it. Guess I've got to find a wire thin enough.
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Jun 30, 2010 19:40
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VideoTapir posted:No....didn't think of that. I tried blowing through it, dripping alcohol down it, and blowing alcohol down it. Guess I've got to find a wire thin enough. Small guitar strings work a treat, and I've used bristles from wirebrushes to good success before. If things are clogged badly enough, it's the only thing that'll clear them out.
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Jun 30, 2010 19:47
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I just tried jamming a twist tie wire down it and it went down about 3mm then it was like hitting a wall. It's supposed to be a straight shot, right? Edit: Pounding a sewing needle in with a hammer is going nowhere, too. VideoTapir fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 20:01
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VideoTapir posted:Edit: Pounding a sewing needle in with a hammer is going nowhere, too. Holy poo poo. Don't do that!
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Jun 30, 2010 20:25
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