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ari.gato posted:Maybe I was tightening the chain wrong. How much slack do you all leave in your chains when you adjust them? 3/4" on an O-ring chain. About a little less than 2cm. if you're metric.
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Jun 30, 2010 20:40
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Hot Buttered posted:Holy poo poo. Don't do that! So it ISN'T a straight shot then? I mean is the hole through the pilot jet supposed to be straight? There are no bends or curves? If that's the reason that the wire and the needle weren't going in any further, then maybe the pilot jet is fine. If it IS straight, then the jet is clogged and not getting unclogged. I wouldn't worry too much...you cant pound very hard on a needle that thin. More "tapping." edit: going in through the other end it stops at about the same distance. VideoTapir fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 20:47
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Blaster of Justice posted:3/4" on an O-ring chain. About a little less than 2cm. if you're metric. godDAMN that's pretty tight. I would definitely run more slack than this...
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Jun 30, 2010 21:42
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VideoTapir posted:I just tried jamming a twist tie wire down it and it went down about 3mm then it was like hitting a wall. It's supposed to be a straight shot, right? Holy poo poo! There is some possibilty you didn't ruin it. This is a tiny hole at the end of a brass needle, the sewing needle and twist tie wire are probably too big. Get something narrower than the hole, and try not to ream it out to a larger diameter.
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Jun 30, 2010 21:43
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Eh? This is the pilot jet. There is no needle for it, the pilot jet screw runs horizontally, and is not in a direct line between the two most obvious holes for the pilot jet. There is a hole in the carburetor body next to the hole for the main jet, and there is a hole in the pressed in brass jet itself. The wire and the sewing needle are both significantly smaller than the holes at either end of the jet. There is another hole in the carburetor body that comes from a channel that appears to run to the pilot jet, I think that is where the pilot screw comes into play, so I don't think that is what is obstructing my wire. If there's some curve in the middle, or it narrows in the middle, I could see them being too big. Otherwise, that isn't it. edit: Would this be a tiny hole within a larger hole? If so, why would I not be able to get the wire farther in one end than the other? Edit: I just tried inserting a hair, and it goes in just as far. Same with a paintbrush. The problem isn't that the channel is too small for the wire or the needle. I'm thinking this is blocked by something that ain't coming unblocked easily. Edit3: No, nevermind, I can get a hair through there, and the channel DOES narrow. REALLY narrow. VideoTapir fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jun 30, 2010 |
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Jun 30, 2010 22:12
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Alright, I just had my carbs cleaned at the service shop thinking my problem would go away but alas it has not. At speed if I pull the clutch in, the rpms will drop all the way below idle, and this will stall the bike. I'm trying to figure out what could be wrong, so that I can a) fix it myself if it's simple b) actually get it fixed without getting charged an extra 100$ for estimates and diagnosis. The bike in question is a 2005 ninja 250
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Jun 30, 2010 22:45
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needknees posted:godDAMN that's pretty tight. I would definitely run more slack than this... Well I just ordered a new X-ring chain. I was giving it about 10cm of slack at the tightest point on the chain when I'd spin the back wheel, but my chain stretched the gently caress out in 2k miles anyways. Gonna throw the new one on and give it a bit more wiggle room. Also checked the alignment of the rear wheel and it's all lined up just perfectly on the adjustment grooves on the swingarm, and the front sprocket is seated correctly. I'm pretty sure I just made the chain too tight when I adjusted it.
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Jun 30, 2010 22:48
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Blaster of Justice posted:3/4" on an O-ring chain. About a little less than 2cm. if you're metric. My SV650 wants 2cm minimum, recommends 2-3cm.
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Jun 30, 2010 22:50
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ari.gato posted:Well I just ordered a new X-ring chain. I was giving it about 10cm of slack at the tightest point on the chain when I'd spin the back wheel, but my chain stretched the gently caress out in 2k miles anyways. Gonna throw the new one on and give it a bit more wiggle room. 10cm is about 4inches. Way too much unless you're riding a bike with a HUGE amount of suspension travel.
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Jun 30, 2010 22:53
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I did babby's first stoppies today on my CBR in a parking lot. My problem is that the rear slams back down because at the slow speeds I'm doing them, I'm basically at a stop when the rear comes up. Is there a smooth way to let it down or the only solution being that I have to get going faster so that I still have speed to scrub off after the rear is in the air?
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Jul 1, 2010 01:57
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VideoTapir posted:Eh? This is the pilot jet. There is no needle for it, the pilot jet screw runs horizontally, and is not in a direct line between the two most obvious holes for the pilot jet. There is a hole in the carburetor body next to the hole for the main jet, and there is a hole in the pressed in brass jet itself. The wire and the sewing needle are both significantly smaller than the holes at either end of the jet. The pilot jet does have a straight hole but it's a metered orifice. It needs to stay whatever size it is or you're going to have even more problems when you are done. As Z3N was saying, the high E on a guitar works really well as a poker because it's super thin and is strong enough to go through without bending. You've really got to be careful to only clean the crud out and not scrape up the jet itself. Even with a guitar string you are poking stainless steel through brass. Too vigorous a pokin' and you WILL damage the jet. Then you have clean carbs but your #25.5 pilot is now a 32ish and your bike is fouling plugs no matter what you do with the screws. EDIT: I doubt you damaged anything by poking at it with the needle as I don't think it would make it anywhere near through the jet. Also, if you don't have any guitar strings laying around I've had good luck with pulling a strand of wire out of heavier gauge automotive wiring. Seems to be of a good thickness and somewhat stiff so you can use it to clean. When cleaning, obviously make sure it will go through but even then you want to spray some cleaner in there and then run the poker through a few times to make sure there is nothing stuck to the sides of the jet. I've gone through carbs too quick a few times and still ended up with partially clogged pilots because I didn't clean them thoroughly enough. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jul 1, 2010 |
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Jul 1, 2010 05:11
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I was changing my fork oil, and noticed that when I lift up and drop the damping rods on both legs one slowly sinks down, and the other stays still. Both forks are drained and have compression damping backed all the way off. The oil level on the fork that sticks was low. What's the deal? Will replacing the seals fix it? Oh god is bent!?
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Jul 1, 2010 06:06
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That might be something you need to pull the fork apart for to diagnose. Could be a poo poo top bushing, a bent tube, or just some crap in there that's gumming stuff up. I don't think an oil seal would affect that since the oil seal is on the outside of the fork tube.
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Jul 1, 2010 14:07
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:That might be something you need to pull the fork apart for to diagnose. Could be a poo poo top bushing, a bent tube, or just some crap in there that's gumming stuff up. I don't think an oil seal would affect that since the oil seal is on the outside of the fork tube. I pulled the tubes apart this morning, the bushings look good. I realized that the seals and bushings can't have anything to do with it, since they act on the tubes, not the damping rods. The fork oil was pretty dirty, I'm guessing the valving is clogged up. I'll pull em apart tonight and have a look, it would be a lot easier with Marzocchi tool R5081AA though.
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Jul 1, 2010 14:51
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Speaking of guitar strings, you can get as much as you'd like for FREE if you go to a music store and ask for their broken ones. They'll look at you like you're nuts, but in my experience, I always end up with a bag full.
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Jul 1, 2010 16:20
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Blaster of Justice posted:3/4" on an O-ring chain. About a little less than 2cm. if you're metric. This is WAY too tight. You need at least 1.5 inches of slack on the chain on any modern streetbike. .75 inches on 95% of bikes will cause the rear suspension to lock up as the rear suspension pivots and tightens the chain. That is the reason that you want to have slack in your chain, because the pivot point of the rear suspension and the location of the front sprocket are not the same, causing things to tighten up dramatically as the suspension compresses. Check your manual, but almost all streetbikes recommend 1.5 inches, and the dirtbikes I've ridden recommend 2.5-3 inches.
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Jul 1, 2010 18:14
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laymil posted:10cm is about 4inches. Way too much unless you're riding a bike with a HUGE amount of suspension travel. Z3n posted:Check your manual, but almost all streetbikes recommend 1.5 inches, and the dirtbikes I've ridden recommend 2.5-3 inches.
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Jul 1, 2010 19:07
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ari.gato posted:Sorry, I meant 10mm. Oh god 10mm is beyond way too tight. From the top of the chain at rest, to the top of the chain when you lift it, it should be ~1.5 inches. I err slightly on the side of loose, as too loose will cause driveline slack but too tight can cause damage to the engine when the force that should be put through the suspension instead binds up on the front sprocket. You do want to adjust to the tightest point and there shouldn't be significant variation as you rotate the chain.
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Jul 1, 2010 19:26
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Z3n posted:Oh god 10mm is beyond way too tight. From the top of the chain at rest, to the top of the chain when you lift it, it should be ~1.5 inches. I err slightly on the side of loose, as too loose will cause driveline slack but too tight can cause damage to the engine when the force that should be put through the suspension instead binds up on the front sprocket. You do want to adjust to the tightest point and there shouldn't be significant variation as you rotate the chain. What would it mean if there was significant variation in slack as I rotated the chain?
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Jul 1, 2010 19:54
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Thanks to your chain tension discussion, I think I figured out why the crank bearings on my bicycle got destroyed.
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Jul 1, 2010 20:03
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ari.gato posted:What would it mean if there was significant variation in slack as I rotated the chain? That the links in the chain have stretched unevenly, indicating bad wear patterns or failed orings letting the internal grease out of the links. Both are bad and require a new chain. It can also create a surging effect when you are on the throttle.
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Jul 1, 2010 20:25
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Also, if the chain is really dirty it may appear to have uneven slack. Before you decide to replace it, clean it and check it again to see if it still has uneven slack.
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Jul 1, 2010 21:23
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New chain and sprocket already on the way. Tightened it up this morning and the adjusters bottomed out and it's still a bit loose. Gonna do a full cleaning/tune this weekend to get all teh little kinks ironed out. Additional questions tho. What's the best way to clean out a fuel pump and petcock?
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Jul 1, 2010 21:33
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ari.gato posted:Additional questions tho. What's the best way to clean out a fuel pump and petcock? Fuel pump? What bike do you ride? I'm pretty sure you don't have a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 21:41
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Blaster of Justice posted:Fuel pump? What bike do you ride? I'm pretty sure you don't have a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 21:48
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Jabs posted:Plenty of Fuel Injected bikes will have a fuel pump. my carbed sv has a fuel pump
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Jul 1, 2010 21:56
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Jabs posted:Plenty of Fuel Injected bikes will have a fuel pump. I thought all fuel injected bikes had a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:25
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Blaster of Justice posted:Fuel pump? What bike do you ride? I'm pretty sure you don't have a fuel pump. 1996 Yamaha XJ600 Seca II. Has a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:32
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Ola posted:I thought all fuel injected bikes had a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:47
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My carbed Honda V-Twin cruiser also has a fuel pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:49
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I suppose some plunger type injectors would work without a pump, but then the plunger is a sort of a pump.
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Jul 1, 2010 22:58
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Any carbed bike will require a fuel pump if the level of the fuel in the tank can drop below the carbs, making gravity feed impossible.  My 93 ZX6E had a fuel pump. Ari, why do you think it needs to be cleaned? Usually they're pretty self sufficient, they either work or they don't.
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Jul 1, 2010 23:38
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Z3n posted:Any carbed bike will require a fuel pump if the level of the fuel in the tank can drop below the carbs, making gravity feed impossible. Just been noticing things with my bike recently. It splutters around 4-6k rpm in 2nd gear. In 4th gear there is hesitation. Seems to top out at around 90mph when it's really supposed to pull up to 117. Overall any of those probs are usually carb/fuel problems so I just want to do a complete fix and just get it done. Def need to clean the carbs, change the fuel filter (ordered), adjust the valves, replace the fuel lines, etc. I figured cleaning out the petcock and the fuel pump would be good preventative maintenance as well...although I'm not sure how to go about cleaning the petcock OR the fuel pump. I have been reading that the fuel pump isn't really that hard of a clean and just requires a little carb cleaner sprayed through it to clean out whatever (if any) gunk is built up. All in all I just want my bike to run well. It runs okay now, but there are def times when I'll roll on the throttle and it will sputter.
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Jul 2, 2010 00:04
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That sounds more like jetting than a fuel pump. Or air filter.
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Jul 2, 2010 00:36
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Z3n posted:It can also create a surging effect when you are on the throttle. Hold the phone, I have this. Ninja 500, right around 6.5k to 7ishk rpm. Just shy of 8k miles on it. Shudders a bit, and if things are just right I can prolong the effect at speed. What do I need to check on the chain to verify this is the cause?
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Jul 2, 2010 00:44
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^^^ Check that the chain slack is consistent across the entire chain. It's probably new chain time  Yeah if it was a carb issue it should occur in all gears, not just one...carb problems are usually consistent through gears, but dependent on RPM.
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Jul 2, 2010 00:44
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Z3n posted:^^^ Check that the chain slack is consistent across the entire chain. It's probably new chain time
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Jul 2, 2010 01:14
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How exactly would one go about identifying a set of carbs? I am finally attempting to rebuild these things and need to order a kit. Problem is, the bike I purchased is sort of a strange conglomeration of parts from all over, and the carbs don't quite match what's in the clymer I have(neither does the instrument cluster, gas tank, handlebar based controls, or wheels). I took one apart, to try and find some identifying marks but had no luck. The title I have says the bike is an 82 GS450, but the only thing I am sure about is that is stamped on the engine.
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Jul 2, 2010 02:59
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So I need to rivet in a new master link to a cam chain but I don't have a tool to do it. Where could I get one of these elusive things?
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Jul 2, 2010 04:10
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Z3n posted:^^^ Check that the chain slack is consistent across the entire chain. It's probably new chain time The sprockets don't look worn, I haven't seen any of that red dust looking stuff that means the O-rings are failing, and it doesn't pull off the teeth like a stretched chain would. It's been fine for 8k miles and not got any worse, so hopefully it'll last a couple thousand miles more. Edit: I actually suspect a slightly out-of-round or mounted off-center sprocket, though visual inspection doesn't look like it's wobbling.
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Jul 2, 2010 14:46
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