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PokeJoe posted:So I need to rivet in a new master link to a cam chain but I don't have a tool to do it. Where could I get one of these elusive things? I'd just buy a clip type masterlink. I've been using them for years now without any issues, and they're much easier to swap and install. chryst posted:My gladius came with a wildly inconsistent chain from the factory. Getting any one place right will send the other side either too loose or too tight. I err on the looser side. Sounds like you just got unlucky with your chain. I'd replace it when you get the chance, but if it's not requiring an adjustment, it shouldn't be the end of the world. It will chew up your sprockets faster though, so I'd consider budgeting for both when you replace the chain. Ghost of Razgriz posted:Measuring in more spots than I'd like to admit indicates it's in spec, 35 to 40mm. It really does need to be cleaned and lubed, though. I kind of forgot to do that after a long trip a couple weeks ago. Are you sure it's not an issue with the fueling being slightly off at that RPM? If the chain and sprockets are in good spec, then a consistent problem at a certain RPM points at a fueling issue.
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Jul 2, 2010 18:40
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Z3n posted:I'd just buy a clip type masterlink. I've been using them for years now without any issues, and they're much easier to swap and install. I wouldn't think a clip would like the high rpm of a cam chain too much. (Plus I can't find any for sale).
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Jul 2, 2010 20:23
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PokeJoe posted:I wouldn't think a clip would like the high rpm of a cam chain too much. (Plus I can't find any for sale). Whoops, glossed over the cam part, haha. What bike is this on? All of the camchains I've seen are pre-rivetted. If you can install it like that I'd just take the chain to a shop and have them rivet it for you.
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Jul 2, 2010 20:46
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1971 Honda CL450. You have to have the chain lined up before you rivet it too, there's no way to move it once it's on.
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Jul 2, 2010 20:49
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Sorry for the age old question but for insurance should I go back with geico? They were cheapest on my last bike. I have access to USAA which is through progressive but I heard progressive is only really good if you're over 25.
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Jul 3, 2010 00:36
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Christoff posted:Sorry for the age old question but for insurance should I go back with geico? They were cheapest on my last bike. I have access to USAA which is through progressive but I heard progressive is only really good if you're over 25. Basically there's no way getting around calling loving any and every insurance company you can find. The rates vary WILDLY between all of them; rider to rider, location to location, bike to bike. There's loving no rhyme or reason behind it.
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Jul 3, 2010 00:42
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needknees posted:Basically there's no way getting around calling loving any and every insurance company you can find. The rates vary WILDLY between all of them; rider to rider, location to location, bike to bike. There's loving no rhyme or reason behind it. And to add to this, call the actual agents in your area. Your local agents can beat the online quote you get from their company nearly 100% of the time. My State Farm agent beat the State Farm online quote by nearly 75%.
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Jul 3, 2010 00:59
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24 years old and a 07 KTM 690. No history $508 annually with $250 deductible, collision, and theft through geico. Doesn't seem too bad.
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Jul 3, 2010 01:55
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Christoff posted:24 years old and a 07 KTM 690. No history I'm $386/year on a 08 CBR1000 through State Farm with 250/500k limits un/under/liability, 100 deductible on comp/theft and 250 on collision, but I'm past the magic cheap insurance age of 25 by one year  Keep calling around. Honestly call every insurance agent you can find.
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Jul 3, 2010 02:09
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Christoff posted:24 years old and a 07 KTM 690. No history Not bad, but I'd still check progressive. You can get an online quote pretty quick and it might be half that. I double checked mine and it's even lower than I thought. I'm guessing mine is poo poo and I should raise the limits, but isn't that what I have health insurance for?  Also, what tire pressure should I run in Distanzas on a Husky 450 with a 200lb rider? I've been in the 20-24 range, equal psi for both front and rear and, while I like powersliding though low speed turns followed by wheelies, I want a good grip psi. I don't care about wear, as I don't really like these tires and can't wait to put something more grippy for pavement on when they're done (even though I'm broke).
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Jul 3, 2010 02:15
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Z3n posted:Are you sure it's not an issue with the fueling being slightly off at that RPM? If the chain and sprockets are in good spec, then a consistent problem at a certain RPM points at a fueling issue. You know, I used to think my knowing a thing or two about cars would be beneficial for bike ownership. This is just not the case beyond "put gas in."
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Jul 3, 2010 02:57
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Alright so I plugged in a new Rick's regulator/rectifier into the F2, and tested the charging system, it's reading about 13.7 volts or so with revs, is that good enough? Or should it really be over 14 volts while revved? What should the voltage be coming out of the 3 yellow wires?
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Jul 3, 2010 18:42
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2010 03:48
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infraboy posted:Alright so I plugged in a new Rick's regulator/rectifier into the F2, and tested the charging system, it's reading about 13.7 volts or so with revs, is that good enough? Or should it really be over 14 volts while revved? High 13's is fine. I think that's about what I get with my F2. Not sure what the stator should be supplying but if the bike is getting increased voltage on revs it seems to be working properly. Good luck with the new R/R. I ended up getting an 8-wire one that CBR Forum recommended and while it was a total bitch to get wired in, it seems to be pretty diesel.
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Jul 4, 2010 03:56
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And my own question... I want to streetfighter my F2. I just want a bucket headlight to replace the front fairing. Like this: http://www.xpostreetfighter.com/detail.aspx?ID=67 However, I have a hard time believing that it's really worth $300 for just a bucket headlight and some turn signals. My forks are 41mm. Is this an okay deal or can I do better somehow else? I don't want to fabricate anything so it has to be pretty plug and play. Secondly, I'll be needing to replace my gauges. I want at the very least, tach, speedo, and trip odometer, but some other stuff like temp gauge would be nice as well. Analog tach if possible. Any ideas? Again, as plug and play as possible.
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Jul 4, 2010 04:30
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:High 13's is fine. I think that's about what I get with my F2. Not sure what the stator should be supplying but if the bike is getting increased voltage on revs it seems to be working properly. Good luck with the new R/R. I ended up getting an 8-wire one that CBR Forum recommended and while it was a total bitch to get wired in, it seems to be pretty diesel. Yeah I commuted to work today on it (54 miles round trip) didn't have any issues, when I got home and retested the battery it was at about 12.7 volts and was getting up to about 13.95 volts when revved to about 4-5k. I think the problem is solved for now, I ended up grabbing a Rick's R/R for a replacement, still waiting on getting my electrosport one back under warranty, I might test that one out as well to see if I get different readings and the variation is just the R/Rs themselves. Also don't Street fighter your F2 
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Jul 4, 2010 07:21
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I'm Australian and taking a trip to California for work in October - I'll have a few days off when I'm in SF and thinking about hiring a bike and riding out to Yosemite to see the sights. I'm a little nervous about riding on the 'wrong' side of the road, though - I've only got about 4 years of riding experience. Has anyone had experience doing this? Is this dumb? Unfamiliar roads, unfamiliar bike, wrong side of the road... any pointers if you have?
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Jul 4, 2010 11:56
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Only 4 years? I don't think it'll be much more than taking it around the block 2-3 times before you get familiar with it. It's not like a car where the seating and shifting is different as well. Traffic in San Fransisco might take some getting used to. But remember, you'r in California. LANE SPLITTTING!
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Jul 4, 2010 18:57
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So I'm getting bad, bad oscillation from my handlebars with the bike in gear. It doesn't happen with the bike in neutral though -- If I pop it down there I can cruise all day without my hands on the bars. With the bike in gear though the bars are constantly moving, so much that if I grip the bars as loosely as I should that I can feel them trying to turn into a tank slapper. I've checked tire pressure, chain alignment, and all that basic jazz. What the gently caress could be wrong?
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Jul 5, 2010 14:17
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:And my own question...
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Jul 5, 2010 14:26
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Bigass rain yesterday, this morning bike tries to start a couple times till the battery is dead. Load up the battery while im at work, now it starts like new. Battery problem or rain problem?-Inu- posted:So I'm getting bad, bad oscillation from my handlebars with the bike in gear. It doesn't happen with the bike in neutral though -- If I pop it down there I can cruise all day without my hands on the bars. With the bike in gear though the bars are constantly moving, so much that if I grip the bars as loosely as I should that I can feel them trying to turn into a tank slapper. I've checked tire pressure, chain alignment, and all that basic jazz. What the gently caress could be wrong? Is it dependent on the RPMs?
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Jul 5, 2010 17:20
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niethan posted:
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Jul 5, 2010 19:47
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Depends on RPM or speed? Could be head bearings need to be tightened up, could be odd wear on the tires...
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Jul 5, 2010 20:45
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Just to be sure, the big black nob on the left side of the bike beneath the float bowl of the outmost carb, is my idle adjuster. Right? Both Clymer and Haynes thinks my bike will explode if I don't leave the adjusting to someone with an exhaust gas analyzer, and accordingly they won't say a word about how you do it, which way to turn it or what the correct rpm is. Dicks.
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Jul 5, 2010 22:21
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Christoff posted:Only 4 years? Well, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't still learning in some way shape or form even after 4 years and 3 bikes. It just seemed like a lot of variables all at once - basically I just want the internet to tell me it's OK. Lane splitting is technically illegal where I live, but everyone does it all the time. How wide are your roads there, though? I'll be on an R1200GS by the looks of it.
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Jul 6, 2010 00:36
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Z3n posted:Depends on RPM or speed? Could be head bearings need to be tightened up, could be odd wear on the tires...
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Jul 6, 2010 01:17
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the letter b posted:Well, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't still learning in some way shape or form even after 4 years and 3 bikes. It just seemed like a lot of variables all at once - basically I just want the internet to tell me it's OK. It'll go from real tight to wide. I'm going to guess it being super tight in San Fransisco. But any highway will be fine. Go ahead and take highway 1 (PCH - PAcific Coast Highway) until you don't feel like it anymore. It goes from San Diego all the way to San Fransisco along our coast. Real scenic and nice ride.
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Jul 6, 2010 06:04
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Thanks. Yeah at first I was going to just ride up from LA to SF to actually get to the office, so I could see that glorious coast I keep reading about and yearning for.. but my trip's been turned upside down recently so I'll be starting on the East coast and flying out of SF so I may not even get down to LA - that's why I was thinking I might stick around the SF end and head east to the mountains for a few days. I will certainly still make an effort to get down the coast if I can swing a few more days off. I'm more excited about the few days of riding than the entire trip to be honest!
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Jul 6, 2010 09:33
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-Inu- posted:RPM's seem to be moot, but it does do it less above 60mph or so. It still happens, but it's not as bad as at low speeds. I just don't get why it doesn't happen with the bike in neutral. By "in neutral" do you mean when you're coasting with the clutch in or do you have to actually shift into neutral? When you get on the gas you're unweighting the front enough (either by compressing the back shock or because you've lost damping the front) which is interacting with the geometry of the bike causing it to weave. check your front fork seals, rear shock and headstock bearings. also you might have a badly worn front tyre, it may not be seem too worn down but uneven wear like cupping can cause funny handling issues.
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Jul 6, 2010 13:49
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Should I be worried about replacing my chain and sprockets yet? I've been riding the F2 for about 2500 miles or so, i've adjusted the chain maybe twice, kept it pretty well lubed, hasn't given me and problems and isn't making any weird noises, doesn't have an particularly tight spots in it either. I bought a sprocket/chain replacement set already, just wondering if I should change it relatively soon? 
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Jul 7, 2010 02:07
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Based on the couple teeth I can see, it looks like new sprockets would not be a bad idea.
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Jul 7, 2010 03:10
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infraboy posted:Should I be worried about replacing my chain and sprockets yet? I've been riding the F2 for about 2500 miles or so, i've adjusted the chain maybe twice, kept it pretty well lubed, hasn't given me and problems and isn't making any weird noises, doesn't have an particularly tight spots in it either. try pulling a link from the very back of the sprocket. If you can pull it off and be able to see at least half a tooth, change your chain
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Jul 7, 2010 04:14
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the letter b posted:Thanks. At the risk of being somewhat doom and gloom, have you considered what happens if you come off? I run medical evacuations for a living and am based in Australia. Given that a trip to the ER in the US if you come off the bike will set you back bare minimum US$5000 (based on running a lot of cases in the US - feel free to correct me US goons), you need some sort of insurance. Your standard health insurance in Australia will not cover you for medical expenses incurred outside Australia, you will need some travel insurance. Most insurance policies DO NOT COVER MOTORCYCLING unless you specifically buy out the exclusion. I heartily loving implore you to do this. Two nights ago I had to tell a 22 year old Australian in the US his insurance company had declined coverage for US$120,000 of medical expenses because he injured himself on a bike, which wasn't covered by his policy... I don't want to have to do this to you. Even if the people who sell you the policy tell you it coveres motorcycling - read the loving clauses. I really cannot stress this enough. Most policies will have a general exclusion against biking unless you are licenced (which you are) AND the bike engine is under 200cc displacement. The same applies to most of the "complimentary" insurance given by credit card companies. Yeah - the odds are you will be fine, but if the unexpected happens, you seriously do not want to be stuck with that bill. Sorry to be the fly in your ointment mate, but it's something you really become aware of doing what I do.
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Jul 7, 2010 13:46
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Just to be sure, the big black nob on the left side of the bike beneath the float bowl of the outmost carb, is my idle adjuster. Right? Both Clymer and Haynes thinks my bike will explode if I don't leave the adjusting to someone with an exhaust gas analyzer, and accordingly they won't say a word about how you do it, which way to turn it or what the correct rpm is. Dicks. Yes it is. Get the engine warmed up and set it to ~1250rpm.
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Jul 7, 2010 14:28
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the letter b posted:I'm Australian and taking a trip to California for work in October - I'll have a few days off when I'm in SF and thinking about hiring a bike and riding out to Yosemite Aside from double or triple checking your insurance as above, go for it. You pretty much just follow the other traffic, or if there's no-one around, look for arrows or think about it (on the right!). I may be too casual about it as I'm used to riding/driving on either side these days so I automatically switch over whenever I'm in the US without any trouble, but it really isn't too tough. Remember however that Americans don't understand the concept of lane discipline, so you have to watch out for people traveling in random lanes and changing lane in all directions, usually with no signal or mirror check. SF is not a small town, so that's pretty stressful to ride in (rent a satnav!), but once you're out of SF all is well. You can filter in California, so no problems there. There are a lot of truly awesome roads if you have the time to do a big road trip. Yosemite is OK if you DON'T go on a holiday weekend, or any weekend for that matter. The ride there, if you go the direct route, is pretty boring - up to Sacremento is a long flat ride on the interstate. You should definitely do the Pacific Coast Highway down from Half Moon Bay at least to Santa Cruz, if not down the central coast (time allowing) to Big Sur and the bottom of Monterey county (and on to SLO if you want). Pretty amazing scenery. If you avoid the PCH and the Yosemite Valley, which are relatively heavily trafficked (and policed - US police are basically as ball-breaking as the Aussie cops), there are some amazing biking roads in the hills/mountains. Driving back from Bishop once, somewhere at the edge of the White Mountains, I found about 30 miles of perfect second gear corners going up, down and along a hillside. Dubbleju m/c are (or used to be) good to rent from. I had a GS from them and they were as advertised. Biker-owned, like it says on the website, unlike a lot of Harley rental places (including the Harley dealerships I reckon). http://www.dubbelju.com/ Please don't get a Harley! 
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Jul 7, 2010 16:52
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Yes it is. Get the engine warmed up and set it to ~1250rpm. Thanks!
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Jul 7, 2010 22:08
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So, I'm working on rebuilding an old bike of my dad's. ('62-'69 Honda CA110 is what my research tells me). I have never worked on a motorcycle before, and I have never done interior work on an engine before. Based on stories that I've been told (my dad passed away in '09 - I found this bike last month while cleaning out an old barn, everyone else thought he'd sold it), Dad was given this bike in '75 by his grandfather, and promptly began riding it anywhere and everywhere he possibly could at the age of 12. The odometer reads just under 10k miles, and I'm inclined to believe that. However, I *think* (based on what I've heard) that, before I found it, the bike had been parked in said barn for 25 years, maybe even 30. Following the instructions in the manual I found on Amazon (yes, Amazon), I've managed to get the cylinder head off without anything exploding. It looks to me like it's in decent condition and will be fine with some cleaning, but I want to get some other opinions (click the image for a bigger version):  I haven't gotten the piston out, but I think it may need replaced, also: 
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Jul 7, 2010 22:17
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Haikeeba! posted:At the risk of being somewhat doom and gloom, <excellent advice> Great advice, thank you! I had planned on being quite specific with my insurance needs, but I'll be doubly-so after reading this before I consider it a sure thing. Edit: seriously thanks for bringing this to the top of my list again.. it had worked it's way down over the last few weeks. Very much appreciated. Saga posted:A bunch more great advice Thanks - especially for the link. I have absolutely 0 intentions of renting a harley because to be quite frank they bore the poo poo out of me. Appreciate the insight folks. the letter b fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jul 7, 2010 |
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Jul 7, 2010 23:20
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Its hard to tell if the cylinder is reflecting crap from the piston, or if its actually tore up. I'm guessing the former. I'd stick a new piston, rings and wristpin in there as a matter of principle. Also, learn to love http://www.dratv.com He has most of the stuff you'll need for that bike. Enjoy the rebuild though, the Honda horizontal singles are amazingly well-engineered, and can take just about anything you throw at them. EDIT: Hmm, it appears he doesnt have much CA110 stuff, eBay it is then.
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Jul 7, 2010 23:23
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Anything to know for storing a bike outside? It won't see extreme cold below 40 or so but It'll see extreme heat and condensation at night. Looking to invest in a good bike cover.
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Jul 9, 2010 04:33
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