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Starter clutch or the starter motor is probably going then. Probably the starter clutch/sprag if the starter is working fine.
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Jul 27, 2010 00:07
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Trelane posted:The first one. The engine is not turning over when I hit the starter. Assuming when you first got the bike.... when you hit the started you heard the engine actually turn over and start.... so currently when you hit the starter button does it make just a high pitched spinning sound (meaning just the starter motor is spinning) If it's the former, could be something as simple as a sparkplug. If it's the latter, yeah like Z3N said, could be the starter clutch, the usual causes of its failure are the springs inside of it or the bolts that hold it to the back of the rotor could have sheared, causing it to freespin without turning the crank. I'm assuming the Shadow 750s have the same starting configuration as most other bikes. Only real way to know for sure is to open up the stator/rotor cover.
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Jul 27, 2010 02:13
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Ola posted:
There is a circlip on top of the fork seal. You need to remove that first. Then rage a bit and the seal and upper slider should come out with the damper rod.
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Jul 27, 2010 04:42
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Ola posted:Is it just a matter of applying rage and violence to pull the top out? Like the oil seal is the piece holding it back? Or am I smashing some of the remaining parts in the bottom against a lip at the top, ruining it in the process? You got everything that was inside out ? If so, yeah, it will take some rage and violence to pull the inner tube out...
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Jul 27, 2010 04:48
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Ola posted:I don't have a very good butt dyno, but more of a butt nervous passenger. "Oh god what was that sound? Is it the valves? The chain? Probably nothing...did the steering just go abit loose? Or perhaps tight? I wonder how my air pressures are doing. Oh god maybe something is leaki..WHAT was THAT" I do this so badly. I hate how the noise my chain makes changes when I'm riding through rain, and obsessively lube the chain after every time I ride in the rain. Shouldn't PJ1 Blue Label lube be sticking better than this?
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Jul 27, 2010 08:17
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Thanks Bugdrvr and Primo Itch, I got the circlip out using very cheap pliers that was only partly suited to the task. I just had to pinch it and pull in a random direction to hope the circlip would get stuck in a place where I could pry it further out. Every time it snapped back into place I got a splash of milky fork oil and rust in my face. So hardcore. Weinertron, rain just makes me pucker up all over. But the most hypochondriac moment I've had was in the Alps while having a quite serious oil leak. After a long climb in hot weather the oil temp rose quite high. Then as I was descending again, I could suddenly smell burnt oil. I just imagined the leak had let loose, all the oil had gushed out and what was left in the crankcase was just toasting into asphalt on the red hot bearings - it smelled like warm oil but also soot, something was definitely burning. I applied the never successful "look down on the engine while riding" method of diagnosis, but it was not successful. Then suddenly the source of the smell revealed itself. A vintage train was building up steam in the bottom of the valley.  My engine was fine of course. And the smoke smelled rather lovely after finding out where it came from.
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Jul 27, 2010 08:45
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Sorry if this is yet another super newbie question... On the side of one of the carbs is what appears to be discolorations from gas leaking out and evaporating. However I have never noticed any liquid/dampness there. Does this mean that when the PO got the carb rebuilt they botched something? How dire(or not dire) is this?
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Jul 27, 2010 16:35
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If it's on the side of the carbs, it probably came out of the overflow. If it's not leaking now, you're fine. Not dire.
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Jul 27, 2010 16:39
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is $160 for a 01 f4i battery a reasonable price? how is it my gs500 battery cost $65, is there a hundred bucks more acid in there or some poo poo jesus christ
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Jul 27, 2010 23:52
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I finally got my '93 DR650 home, and on the highway I noticed some very distinct performance.. issues. Anywhere from 1000-5000 RPM it runs like poo poo, but as soon as it hits 5000 RPM it takes off like a rocket. Taking off from a light is frusterating because if I try and rev it a bit, it might pop a wheelie when it hits that magical 5000 RPM, but then bogs down when it gets below. Then another issue is that when on the highway cruising at around 5k, it'll randomly die for a split second then pick up. If I try cruising at 4k, it'll surge and bog like crazy. Later on the power started to get so bad that even 5k it wouldn't pull. Then when I got home and stopped the idle was at 2000, when before it was 1500. I'm thinking the choke might have been stuck on? Or does it sound electrical? I pulled the air filter, took the snorkel out, took the carb out, and I'm going to clean and inspect everything thoroughly. But does this sound like anything specific? Fake edit: I noticed the main jet is a 137.5, and the manual shows stock is 142.5. Could that be making it run crazy lean?
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Jul 27, 2010 23:56
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Ammanas posted:is $160 for a 01 f4i battery a reasonable price? how is it my gs500 battery cost $65, is there a hundred bucks more acid in there or some poo poo That's some bullshit right there. Unless the battery has a lifetime warranty or some crazy thing like that.
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Jul 28, 2010 01:32
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So I've learned another lesson. Went on a nice ride today, knew I had an appt at 7.30, so I pulled into a retirement complex to check my cell. A hose is on the ground for no real reason. I think "that can't really make me slip." Promptly lowside (5 mph at most), fly forward, probably break wrist (we'll find out tomorrow; arm won't move much, but ER visit would be exhorbitant;I'll wait for a referral to get a cast). Subsequently typing slowly, one handed. When I picked the bike back up (adrenaline) it leaked oil on the ground. Probably normal. Small oil patch on ground now where parked...maybe residual, maybe not. Bike is a 1979 CB750. Fell on left side. Dripping is by the shifter. Is there a gasket from which oil could leak there? Probably overreacting; figured I'd ask. I'm not sure where else oil could come from. It's not gas.
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Jul 28, 2010 03:05
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You could've cracked an engine case cover, possibly the stator cover and oil is now leaking out of that 
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Jul 28, 2010 03:10
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Ammanas posted:is $160 for a 01 f4i battery a reasonable price? how is it my gs500 battery cost $65, is there a hundred bucks more acid in there or some poo poo I paid $85 for one from a local battery store.
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Jul 28, 2010 03:40
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Ammanas posted:is $160 for a 01 f4i battery a reasonable price? how is it my gs500 battery cost $65, is there a hundred bucks more acid in there or some poo poo Only if the battery acid was put there by soichiro honda himself.
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Jul 28, 2010 03:52
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Ammanas posted:is $160 for a 01 f4i battery a reasonable price? how is it my gs500 battery cost $65, is there a hundred bucks more acid in there or some poo poo $55 from batteriesplus http://www.batteriesplus.com/products/558-CC/4419-Motorcycle-Batteries/136312-Honda/CBR600F4i/600CC-2001-to-2010/1.aspx
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Jul 28, 2010 04:22
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niethan posted:What if you drill into it with a drill that's slightly smaller than the bolt?
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Jul 28, 2010 05:53
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MrZig posted:I finally got my '93 DR650 home, and on the highway I noticed some very distinct performance.. issues. First, check your manual or google for when the advance kicks in on the ignition. If it hits at 5000 rpm it could be that the non-advance setting is off by a mile, but the advance setting is ok. I had similar symptoms that turned out to be a missing airbox snorkel. Disturbances to the airflow can apparently manifest themselves in "bogs at low rpm, runs fine at high" scenarios. fake edit: actually no, you say the rpm of the bogging changed with heat. Principle says a lean engine should run better while hot but if you can get it cheap I would try a stock main jet first - check for air leaks and the ignition spec while you wait for its delivery.
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Jul 28, 2010 09:58
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A 93 DR will have a computerized advance. I'm guessing clogged pilot circuit? Runs like crap till it gets on the main, then takes off like it should.
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Jul 28, 2010 14:39
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Phat_Albert posted:A 93 DR will have a computerized advance. For someone with a carb as an avatar, you should know the jets depend on throttle position, not RPM. 
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Jul 28, 2010 14:48
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Most people are opening the throttle to get to that point, but yeah, if its exactly 5,000 rpm every time, then my backup guess is cam timing?
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Jul 28, 2010 14:58
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Turns out my jets are actually stock. The manual differed from what the part fische says. I'm going to check cam timing next.. Is that possible by just taking off the inspection covers when doing a valve adjustment? Is there any way to check ignition timing?
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Jul 28, 2010 18:14
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Cam timing will be possible to check with the valvecover off. Probably not with just an inspection cover off, although I'm not sure how big the inspection covers on the DR's are. Ignition timing is hard set from the factory. The only way to change it is to get an ignition advanced rotor (possible), an advanced computer (unlikely), or oval out the holes that hold the hall effect sensor on to manually move it (possible, but unlikely).
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Jul 28, 2010 19:54
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That sounds more like a fueling issue...the chances of the cams just randomly going out of timing is pretty low unless there are the sort of problems that would cause other issues almost immediately. I'd check the choke mechanism as you thought initially, and make sure you don't have some issue with your carb.
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Jul 28, 2010 20:11
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Z3n posted:That sounds more like a fueling issue...the chances of the cams just randomly going out of timing is pretty low unless there are the sort of problems that would cause other issues almost immediately. I'd check the choke mechanism as you thought initially, and make sure you don't have some issue with your carb. I wouldn't guess that they randomly went out of timing, if anything I would place it on an engine rebuild that someone hosed up. Carb is cleaned, choke cable is clean and moving good. Tomorrow I should find out if it made any difference at all. Also when tightening the black plastic nut for the choke I heard a snap and now it spins.. I'm just gonna leave it. gently caress me I hate plastic and I hate choke cables. Give me a goddamn plunger any day.
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Jul 28, 2010 20:30
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I mighta figured out my problem. Do ignition coils work well on 6v?  It's not charging, no wonder the battery is dead on it. Time to go through wires. This is my first bike with charging issues Edit: It's charging, just not.. well. At idle it shows 8-9VDC, and at 3000+ RPM it shows ~6VDC. What's that sound like? MrZig fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jul 29, 2010 |
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Jul 29, 2010 00:14
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Not sure if this is the right place, so feel free to direct me to the correct thread... I'm looking at a set of used flatslide mikunis on ebay that would be a great upgrade for the serow and god knows what more in the future, but the guy is not going to ship to brazil. Anyone could take it and send forward to me ? I'll pay for everything (paypal), just need someone to receive them at home and them send 'em in their journey to the underworld. I'm even willing to part with one of the carbs for free for the person that helps me with this, or maybe we can negociate some other compensation for all the trouble. Anyone? Thanks guys.
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Jul 29, 2010 06:49
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MrZig posted:I mighta figured out my problem. Do ignition coils work well on 6v? http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
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Jul 29, 2010 07:05
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niethan posted:http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf That guide is excellent, a definite keeper. But it turned out the problem was as easy as a stupidly dead battery. I put in a known good one and presto- 13-14 VDC charge.
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Jul 29, 2010 16:25
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Primo Itch posted:Not sure if this is the right place, so feel free to direct me to the correct thread... I'll help out. Send me an e-mail or PM through the site.
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Jul 29, 2010 16:51
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Z3n posted:I'll help out. Send me an e-mail or PM through the site. Wow, thanks Z3n. I don't have PMs, which email can i use to contact you ?
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Jul 29, 2010 17:00
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Primo Itch posted:Wow, thanks Z3n. I don't have PMs, which email can i use to contact you ? Hrm, looks like they changed things so you can't e-mail through the site. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 29, 2010 |
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Jul 29, 2010 17:13
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e-mail sent
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Jul 29, 2010 17:30
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I just got back from a ride (with my dad on the back  ) and I noticed two things on my front tire:There is a tiny cut in the sidewall, more of a nick really, it doesnt seem deep at all and also there is a bigass gouge (the size of a nickel) taken out of the tread. I have no idea wtf could have caused this (these tires have less than <1000mi on them and are less than a year old.) Now, the area that has suffered a tread trauma does not extend into the actual tire; that is, some of the top layer of tread was scraped off but it didn't reach down below the tread area so I think my tire is still structurally intact. My question is, do I need to worry about a change in handling due to this? I really dont want to replace the tire but I also don't want to deal with a blowout. thoughts? I will try to get a pic of the tire in question later but I'm at work right now.
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Jul 29, 2010 19:41
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Oil light question! I just changed the stator and the oil light came on when I started it up again. I guess the oil level was a little low so I filled it up a bit. That helped a bit but the oil light comes on a little now and again. It seems that when I reach high RPM it comes on and then goes out after about a minute on lower rpms. I'm guessing the oil level is still a little low, but could there be something else wrong that I'm not thinking of? To read the oil level the bike should be upright and not recently ridden, to allow all oil to gather in the sump?
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Jul 30, 2010 16:34
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Isn't the oil light tied to oil pressure, not necessarily oil level? You should ensure that you added the correct amount of oil by volume for starters.
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Jul 30, 2010 16:38
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makka-setan posted:To read the oil level the bike should be upright and not recently ridden, to allow all oil to gather in the sump? If your bike has one of those viewing windows (sounds like it does) then yeah, this is the proper way to read it. edit: This is the proper way to read oil with a dipstick too, I have no idea why I was thinking it was for window only. The oil light is an indicator for oil pressure, so it may still be low (or too high!). A wiring issue could also cause false negatives, make sure the contacts on the wire leading to the oil pressure unit are clean. PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jul 30, 2010 |
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Jul 30, 2010 16:41
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makka-setan posted:To read the oil level the bike should be upright and not recently ridden, to allow all oil to gather in the sump? Then he took it out and ran it for a while, came home, put the bike back up on the stand and shut it off - then took more pictures as the oil drained back into the case. TL;DR: Obsessive KLR owner figures out that 3 minutes is sufficient time for all 2.5 liters of oil to end up back in the crankcase.
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Jul 30, 2010 17:37
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The oil level looked quite low, but I only checked it a minute or so from riding. I'll take another look and fill it up if the light keeps coming on. It's due for an oil/filter change anyway, that would give me opportunity to make sure it gets the right amount of oil. Anyway, it's great to finally be riding again after waiting for a new stator/rectifier for three weeks.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:41
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Motorcycle 10w40 is different than car 10w40, right? Also...if the PO apparently filled the oil reserve upto...the top, is that bad? As in I had it on the center stand and opened it up to check the level and some still spilled out it was so full.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:44
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