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Intentional Double Post - because this is an actual question... The speedometer on the KLR is shot - it quit working 100 miles outside Amarillo. Part 41078 (The casing at the wheel, including worm and toothed gear): $70.76 Part 54001 (Speedometer Cable): $17.02 Part 25005a (Speedometer, MPH): $198.49 So, I'd be looking at around $90 to replace parts for the stock speedo - presuming that the damage isn't where the cable attaches to the back of the speedometer itself. Hayden did text me that it had to be attached "just so...not too tight, and not too loose" to the back of the speedometer for it to work when he read that it quit. In that case, I'm out $290, and have to (for sure) tick the 'not actual mileage' box on the odometer. Option #1: Trailtech Vapor. $129 Option #2: Trailtech Vector. Lacks Tach, includes option for a remote for laptimes/enduro/rally/etc. $99.95 + $19.95 for the remote. Which would y'all consider?
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Jul 30, 2010 19:49
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Z3n posted:Does it say energy conserving in the API bubble? The only concern is with energy conserving oils and wet clutches, besides that for topping off, oil is oil. ChiTownEddie, see the above quote for oil is oil advice. Having too much oil is bad, because the motion of the engine parts will cause froth in the oil pan. Then the bubbly oil gets sucked into the oil pump and fouls up the works because there's not enough fluid to maintain pressure. Too much oil is a bad thing. Also, the method for checking your oil level is: 1. Run the bike till it's warmed up. This ensures that everything has expanded to the normal operational size. 2. Let the bike rest (turn it off) for 3-5 minutes. This ensures that most of the oil has run down into the pan and is resting there. 3. Make the bike level. That is, the seat and handlebars should be parallel to the ground. 4. Check dipstick/fill window to see if the level is within the proper range. Don't be an idiot like me and try to check the oil with the bike running. A wonderfully fine mist of combustion products and vaporized oil will shoot out of the filler cap into your face.
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Jul 30, 2010 19:59
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Ah okay, thanks alot  Noted...don't open oil cap when on... haha.
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Jul 30, 2010 20:07
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An alternate, more habitual method:The NonBornKing posted:1. Go Riding.
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Jul 30, 2010 20:38
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Anyone know anything about ignition barrels? Having some troubles with the Gixxer's one. It's gotten very stiff all of a sudden. It takes a lot of effort to get the key to turn right (i.e, on), but not to turn it left. Is there something I can do to loosen it up, some sort of grease or lubrication for it?
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Jul 31, 2010 00:54
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Jabs posted:Intentional Double Post - because this is an actual question... You could also look into the Acewells.. might be a bit pricey, but it does everything in one.
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Jul 31, 2010 01:24
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Having used a trailtech vapor, I'd just replace it with stock parts. The speedo on the vapor works okay, but the tach (at least on my ninja) sucked rear end to the point where I didn't pay attention to it. It might work a little better on the KLR since they have a KLR kit. At least you wont be hacking it into your wiring harness like I had to do on the ninja.
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Jul 31, 2010 02:10
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i think the KLR vapor plugs into alot of the stock harness so it should be relatively plug and play. On becky's DRZ 400E, we had to wrap a wire around the spark plug cable but that wasn't invasive or anything obviously
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Jul 31, 2010 04:23
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ChiTownEddie posted:Motorcycle 10w40 is different than car 10w40, right? Sort of, you can use car oil just make sure you don't get oil that has friction reducers in it. Most car oil does and it will say energy conserving on it but you can find it with out. Best bet is to get Rotella T full synthetic. Turns out this diesel truck oil is one of the best bike oils as well. We have a whole thread on it somewhere.
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Jul 31, 2010 05:27
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ChiTownEddie posted:Motorcycle 10w40 is different than car 10w40, right? No.
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Jul 31, 2010 15:41
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Anyone know anything about ignition barrels? Not sure if this is helpful or not, but if your bike has the steering lock combined with the ignition barrel then you might try moving the front wheel around and seeing if that affects anything. If that doesn't work I would try a shot of WD40 in there.
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Jul 31, 2010 16:27
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Anyone know anything about ignition barrels? Having some troubles with the Gixxer's one. It's gotten very stiff all of a sudden. It takes a lot of effort to get the key to turn right (i.e, on), but not to turn it left. Is there something I can do to loosen it up, some sort of grease or lubrication for it? You can use Molykote as a chain lube, too. It carries the molybdenum disulfide into the inside of the chain, then the liquid part dries, leaving only the lubricant.
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Jul 31, 2010 20:09
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sklnd posted:Having used a trailtech vapor, I'd just replace it with stock parts. The speedo on the vapor works okay, but the tach (at least on my ninja) sucked rear end to the point where I didn't pay attention to it. If the acewells are "pricey" compared to the TrailTechs, I might as well keep with the stock parts. I'm only considering the TT because it's 20 or 30 bucks more than the stock stuff, and it has a fair bit of cool factor.
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Jul 31, 2010 20:19
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Acewell has a cheaper line now that's comparable to the tt stuff...check it out.
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Jul 31, 2010 21:30
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Hmmm! Acewell gauges are pretty nice. I'm a sucker for the the swank MotoGadget ones, but the Acewell can do fuel level as well, in addition to not making my wallet indicator show E.
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Jul 31, 2010 22:04
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For all intents and purposes, this is my bike. (This is an 82 and mine's an 80, close enough.) 1980 Honda CB750F  Click here for the full 800x600 image. I've been riding since March, have proper riding gear all except pants, just bought a luggage rack on ebay, and am interested in taking a few trips around 600~miles round trip come end of august or beginning of september. Notice the nice upright riding position this bike has? It sure is hell on the freeway. I'm 5'10" and about 160lbs and I feel as though riding into a headwind at 65mph on the freeway is going to blow me off the back of the bike, or at least force me to recline over the tail, unless I keep a hard grip and literally hold my torso upright using the handlebars. Am I doing something wrong, wrong technique, help? It's seriously unpleasant except for when the air is pretty still.
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Aug 1, 2010 11:04
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Rontalvos, if you loosen the bolts on the handlebar you can tilt it towards you. You can also replace the handlebar with a flatter one. You can also mount a windscreen, they come in all shapes and sizes from a zillion vendors. This should get you started: http://www.bikehps.com/mra/ http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-fairings-windscreens/
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Aug 1, 2010 11:42
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Rontalvos posted:I'm 5'10" and about 160lbs and I feel as though riding into a headwind at 65mph on the freeway is going to blow me off the back of the bike, or at least force me to recline over the tail, unless I keep a hard grip and literally hold my torso upright using the handlebars. Like Ola said lower bars and a screen will help, but you should be holding yourself on the bike with your knees, back and ab muscles, sounds like you're death gripping the bars which makes a bike feel terribly unstable. Your hand grip on the bars should be as light as holding a pack of crisps without crushing them. i've ridden naked bikes up to around 130mph, above 70 you can just lean forward and the wind blast holds your weight
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Aug 1, 2010 13:10
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Once you get into a long touring day, you'll start noticing the wind blast less as the day goes on. You get really used to it really fast.
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Aug 1, 2010 19:02
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Fork update: Got the left one all sorted, bolt drilled out, all the bits successfully separated, new seal almost in (need to get some pipe tomorrow for proper smashing effect), attacked right leg feeling all cocky. That's when the complacency monster comes to bite you, always. Was drilling happily away at the hopelessly rounded bolt, listening to the radio and enjoying myself. Suddenly I thought...hmmm, shouldn't I be through soon? Turned out I had drilled at an angle for a while and made a hole off angle from the bolt. I can see (I think) where the hole wall is and it's not that much that needs cutting away to get it loose but it will be an absolute bitch to get it right and I am a massive massive cockhead.
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Aug 2, 2010 19:47
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Anyone ever do any motorbiking in Turkey? I will be in the southern town of Bodrum for a few days and am thinking of renting something to scoot around the countryside. Unfortunately, there seems to be a generic response from everyone on the internet that motorbiking in any other country other than the US and Western Europe will result in your immediate death by wild and crazy foreign drivers out to kill you.
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Aug 2, 2010 20:37
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As long as you make an effort of understanding the traffic pattern and its flows, you don't drink and you stay on the small roads you should be just fine. Renting should be very cheap, at least in the 50cc to 125cc range. Don't know how it is with something bigger, but I would make sure to gear up properly for a big bike down there and the rental store might not provide more than smelly helmets. And mind the sun! Easy to forget when the skin is cooled by the wind.
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Aug 2, 2010 20:43
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Ola posted:As long as you make an effort of understanding the traffic pattern and its flows, you don't drink and you stay on the small roads you should be just fine. Renting should be very cheap, at least in the 50cc to 125cc range. Don't know how it is with something bigger, but I would make sure to gear up properly for a big bike down there and the rental store might not provide more than smelly helmets. And mind the sun! Easy to forget when the skin is cooled by the wind. That's what I did when I biked around in Vietnam, however there it was just a lot of other motorbikes I had to deal with. Just want to make sure that Turkey is not some big no no in regards to renting and riding.
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Aug 3, 2010 00:55
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I was riding my 96 KLR 250 tonight and it started cutting out like it was running out of gas. So I limp to a station only to discover the tank is near full. It seems to want to cut out at around 5k rpm and doesn't really respond to the throttle. It also won't drive over 35mph. Also when I was revving it it sounded like it was trying to backfire. Any ideas? I'm no good at diagnosing problems and this is a new to me bike. Here's a video of it happening: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQa1JU0nYdw HEP ME HEP ME!
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Aug 3, 2010 03:28
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Rontalvos posted:For all intents and purposes, this is my bike. (This is an 82 and mine's an 80, close enough.) Congrats and welcome to DOHC Four country. We're separated by a bit of bodywork and a few years, but yours gets you legit entree into the vintage bike thread, whereas I'm still using a fake ID. Sensory deprivation, flailing around in crosswinds, struggling to keep your lane, and feeling like the whole works could fly apart at any second--that's called motorcycling. A lot of people can run the hell out of a bike designed for 100+, but it takes a special insanity to go WOT with a machine conceived during the Carter Administration. Enjoy, and learn from the folks at the F-model forum. Additionally, the DOHC Custom forum is an excellent resource. Again, same motor, slightly different feature sets. I think there might have been an optional OE bikini fairing, and no doubt there are aftermarket ones. I don't know that that resolves much of what you're perceiving as a problem. Make it safe, tune it to the best of your ability, and you'll have a blast.
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Aug 3, 2010 06:22
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TylerC 2.0 posted:I was riding my 96 KLR 250 tonight and it started cutting out like it was running out of gas. So I limp to a station only to discover the tank is near full. It seems to want to cut out at around 5k rpm and doesn't really respond to the throttle. It also won't drive over 35mph. Also when I was revving it it sounded like it was trying to backfire. What's the battery voltage like? Both with the engine off and at 4000-ish rpm.
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Aug 3, 2010 06:39
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I stumped the band with this one. I have the following arrangement for a speedo gear and retainer. It's a common arrangement, having been included on, oh, a bajillion bikes. Gear on left sits in a speedo drive, which mates with the retainer at right, which sits stationary behind a seal and in front of a bearing, with its little raised tangs jutting outward. My question is simply: how does this dagnabbit thing go together? To me, it makes infinitely more sense if the mating surface of the gear was exactly the opposite of what it is--large tabs with small recesses. Is the idea to drop it in anywhere and have the retainer tangs push the gear around? 
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Aug 3, 2010 06:48
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TylerC 2.0 posted:I was riding my 96 KLR 250 tonight and it started cutting out like it was running out of gas. So I limp to a station only to discover the tank is near full. It seems to want to cut out at around 5k rpm and doesn't really respond to the throttle. It also won't drive over 35mph. Also when I was revving it it sounded like it was trying to backfire. You've got a fuel feed problem. What to suspect: 1) Blocked air vent in your tank cap. 2) Punctured diagram in your fuel petcock. 3) Sticky needle valve/float valve in your carburetor. What to do: 1) Closely inspect and clean fuel cap. 2) Test your petcock by disengaging both the vacuum line (thin) and the fuel line (thick). Place the petcock in the "On"-position. Suck the thin line and observe fuel running from the thick line. If not check the thin line for cracks (vacuum leaks) - if no cracks are found, replace the diagram in the petcock. 3) If the above proves unsuccessful, remove your carburetor. Open the float bowl. Inspect the mechanism that makes the floaters close the fuel stream. Check adjustment (closing hight). Check floater for leaks. 4) Replace the failing part. It's marked as 16030 in the picture below. The above 3 steps were only meant to build up the right atmosphere for a carburetor thread. 
Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 08:53
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Blaster of Justice posted:You've got a fuel feed problem. What to suspect: Thanks for the awesome advice, I'm thinking it's carb related, I'll post the results when I get them/
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Aug 3, 2010 15:59
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Marv Hushman posted:I stumped the band with this one. I have the following arrangement for a speedo gear and retainer. It's a common arrangement, having been included on, oh, a bajillion bikes. Gear on left sits in a speedo drive, which mates with the retainer at right, which sits stationary behind a seal and in front of a bearing, with its little raised tangs jutting outward. What are you confused about? The end of the gear on the left sitting on the ground drives a worm gear that drives the speedo cable. The mental and plastic parts doesn't mesh together exactly to make it easier to install, and the part that is installed on the wheel uses those small lifted metal tangs to connect with the teeth on the white gear. (I think this is one of those things where I can't visualize it any other way because I've taken one of those apart and put it back together so many times, don't mean to come off like a smug jerk)
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Aug 3, 2010 16:33
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Z3n posted:What are you confused about? The end of the gear on the left sitting on the ground drives a worm gear that drives the speedo cable. The mental and plastic parts doesn't mesh together exactly to make it easier to install, and the part that is installed on the wheel uses those small lifted metal tangs to connect with the teeth on the white gear. Thanks, and you're right--there is no other way. I was just looking for verification from someone who'd done it. I snapped my drive after a recent reassembly and want to rule out culprits for when I replace everything. Having looked at other assemblies of the era, there are some designed to mesh more closely as I've described. The situation doesn't exactly demand close tolerances, but I couldn't fathom why they cut it that small. I suppose it sped up the manufacturing process by 12 seconds.
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Aug 3, 2010 17:49
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ChiTownEddie posted:Motorcycle 10w40 is different than car 10w40, right? Just get Bike oil. To me it's worth the extra couple bucks to be sure. e: Oh hey, new page. 
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Aug 3, 2010 18:01
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Marv Hushman posted:Thanks, and you're right--there is no other way. I was just looking for verification from someone who'd done it. I snapped my drive after a recent reassembly and want to rule out culprits for when I replace everything. Having looked at other assemblies of the era, there are some designed to mesh more closely as I've described. The situation doesn't exactly demand close tolerances, but I couldn't fathom why they cut it that small. I suppose it sped up the manufacturing process by 12 seconds. Probably got tired of people bitching about breaking them on assembly. It's a pretty common thing on the ZX6E to get people not meshing them properly and cracking the housing. 
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Aug 3, 2010 19:22
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Can anyone recommend a pair of headphones that block noise similar to earplugs but also have halfway decent sound quality?
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Aug 4, 2010 14:43
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bladesamurai posted:Can anyone recommend a pair of headphones that block noise similar to earplugs but also have halfway decent sound quality? Etymotic ER-6i. Got them last fall and freakin love em, and use them constantly.
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Aug 4, 2010 15:19
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bladesamurai posted:Can anyone recommend a pair of headphones that block noise similar to earplugs but also have halfway decent sound quality?
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Aug 4, 2010 16:30
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I had those Sony's and they where total poo poo at blocking noise, also uncomfortable as gently caress. If I could do it again, I would go all out straight up.
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Aug 4, 2010 16:40
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needknees posted:Etymotic ER-6i. Got them last fall and freakin love em, and use them constantly. This. Prefer the ER-6is even over my custom ones. Wasted a bunch of money on the customs. 
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Aug 4, 2010 16:44
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Jabs posted:I use these Sony's for 1/5th the price of the ER-6i's. I'll check out the ER-6i's if i can. I've had a couple pairs of ex71's and while they block out enough noise for day to day use it's not enough for highway riding. Thanks for the recommendations
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Aug 4, 2010 18:08
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bladesamurai posted:I'll check out the ER-6i's if i can. I've had a couple pairs of ex71's and while they block out enough noise for day to day use it's not enough for highway riding. Thanks for the recommendations If you do end up with the er6i's try out the different buds it comes with. I found the big foamie ones to provide the best noise reduction but they're a bit bulky to fit under a helmet. The gray triple flange plugs have almost as good of noise reduction (for my ear shape, I guess) as the foamies but drat near completely stick in your ear so they're great for wearing in a helmet. I've got an multi input amp coming from Electric Avenues I'm going to run my ipod and v1 into, the boost in sound quality (and actually being able to hear my radar detector... ) will be nice.
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Aug 4, 2010 18:28
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