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Phone posted:I HAVE A LOT OF WORK TO DO Got a pair of lovely Sony speakers from a forum for $20 shipped. Opened up the door panels to realize that the stock speakers are actually made out of cardboard  . Ended up doing a nice job with soldering quick connects onto the speakers instead of cutting the factory wiring. Seems like almost any speaker will require cutting up the stock covers which is rather annoying, so leaving them bare for the moment. Being able to leave the "bass" control anywhere besides all the way down to avoid farting out is quite nice.
destructo fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 19, 2010 |
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Aug 19, 2010 01:48
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Be thankful that you don't have headrest speakers. I wasn't sure to be disgusted or in awe when I pulled mine.
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Aug 19, 2010 01:55
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Phone posted:Be thankful that you don't have headrest speakers. I wasn't sure to be disgusted or in awe when I pulled mine.
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Aug 19, 2010 01:56
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Whenever people would talk about not using the stereo and just listening to the exhaust, I used to always go "hah that's pretty stupid" but I catch myself being content just driving along with the stereo off all the time.
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Aug 19, 2010 03:37
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I know it sounds silly, but replacing the stock wiring with 14gauge helped considerably. I still want to find out how to hook up the bodysonic seat thumpers to an aftermarket stereo...
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Aug 19, 2010 05:30
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Phone posted:Be thankful that you don't have headrest speakers. I wasn't sure to be disgusted or in awe when I pulled mine. What did you replace them with? Mine faded to be completely off because the material around the speaker itself is all gone. Don't know how it doesn't just fall out...
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Aug 19, 2010 15:55
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http://cgi.ebay.com/BLAUPUNKT-PCx352-3-1-2-2-WAY-CAR-SPEAKERS-NEW-3-5-/360291054501?pt=Car_Speakers
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Aug 19, 2010 21:07
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I just got a free Miata (okay it was $2.75). Its Krakkles' rusty beater 91. It leaks coolant from the front end badly, and timing belt age is unknown, so whats the word on a kit like this? I have experience with shortnose crank cars (I own a 323 GTX which is also shortnose) and can deal with them properly. Any other snags I should be aware about? Any shortcuts?
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Aug 19, 2010 23:00
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I used one of those $70~ timing belt/wp kits, and its held up so far.
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Aug 19, 2010 23:00
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It's a shitload less than what I ended up spending total by buying the parts piecemeal on my '99 and they're probably of equivalent quality.
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Aug 19, 2010 23:06
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Baby Hitler, I don't know but I'll know after this weekend. All of the parts seem to be legit so why the gently caress not. Mazda wants an arm and a leg for OEM timing stuff.
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Aug 20, 2010 04:45
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Baby Hitler posted:I just got a free Miata (okay it was $2.75). Its Krakkles' rusty beater 91. It leaks coolant from the front end badly, and timing belt age is unknown, so whats the word on a kit like this? Great price... I just had my timing belt done yesterday with a local mechanic... total cost for all the parts was $379... included: timing belt, idler and tensioner pullies, crank and cam seals, water pump, accessory belts, coolant for radiator flush, and the valve cover gasket. Full retail for me!
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Aug 20, 2010 13:18
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Anyone have opinions on the ebay steering wheel hub adapters that are like 13 dollars? I got a nice Nardi wheel from a friend and would like to use it. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ebaymotors/ws/eB...id=270511916641
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Aug 20, 2010 13:26
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Baby Hitler posted:I just got a free Miata (okay it was $2.75). Its Krakkles' rusty beater 91. It leaks coolant from the front end badly, and timing belt age is unknown, so whats the word on a kit like this? Rosenthal's kit is $189 and includes accessory belts, seals and the valve cover gasket. $70 is a total steal. Non-interference, so if it breaks, no harm done. I did mine a month ago and it's a totally easy job compared to other belts I've done recently. Count the belt teeth between the cam timing marks when you do it and use that during reassembly....it's hard to get the cams to stay put. Triple check everything. Check the ignition timing after you're done (mine had drifted a degree or so with the belt slack) and use it as an opportunity to set it to 14 degrees BTDC if it isn't already. Do the CAS oil seal while things are apart. At least have a replacement crank key and definitely get a new bolt and torque it more than the factory spec (something like 100 ft-lb seems to be the consensus on m.net these days).
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Aug 20, 2010 18:36
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ppdd posted:Rosenthal's kit is $189 and includes accessory belts, seals and the valve cover gasket. $70 is a total steal. Non-interference, so if it breaks, no harm done. 19 teeth between the cams, I believe.
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Aug 21, 2010 07:54
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Exhaust question for you guys: I picked up a 2.25" catback about a month ago for my 1.6. I had a set of riceland headers laying around so I wanted to finish the system off with a high flow cat. I ordered one from M-tuned (same guys that do the coolant reroute kit) in 2.25". I had assumed that the outlet would be in 2.25" and the inlet flange would be stock sized (2"), as they claim that the cat is completely compatible with the OEM headers. The cat they sent had identical 2.25" flanges on each side. Ignoring the fact that the bolt tabs weren't cut to the proper size (it took 5 angry emails to get them to fess up that their flange supplier changed the design without their knowledge), they still claim that the piece should mate up to the stock header. I know the 1.6 cats had separate gaskets for front and rear, the front being a sort of shallow cone shape, but I'm still having a hard time believing the 1/4 inch difference in ID isn't going to leak. Is this legitimate or are they in some way correct?
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Aug 23, 2010 01:41
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Stock '08 NC here, and I need your sagely advice. I've wanted to install the RoadsterSport headers/midpipe/muffler set (+a CAI) ever since I heard it, but I'm worried about how it'll affect the car. I'm a yokel with a very basic understanding of ECUs and A/F ratios and all that fancy stuff, and progress to educate myself has been slow (because I'm a yokel). Would my ECU be able to adjust itself and run the engine optimally, or am I going to have issues with it being confused and running too lean or too rich? What else could go wrong? What I'm considering is the least restrictive exhaust system available (besides straight pipes).
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Aug 24, 2010 03:11
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You won't have any problems with the ECU except maybe the O2 sensor but the with the Roadstersport set you have bungs everywhere to fake a factory cat setup. Are you looking at getting the Roadstersport Q with the quiet (ugly) tips?
GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Aug 24, 2010 |
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Aug 24, 2010 03:25
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ECUs don't really adjust. They can vary fuel trims small amounts, but WOT fuel is WOT fuelling. I doubt the stock ECU will compensate, as it wasn't designed to. It will fuel versus the air it sees versus what the desginers put in as VE against MAF voltage (directly proportional to airflow), but once (if) it increases past the MAF's voltage limit, it won't see any air above that. Not to worry, you probably aren't increasing the power output enough to matter to VE, and hence AFR.
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Aug 24, 2010 03:29
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I'll be going with the single. Gram strategy! Baby Hitler, I don't understand what you mean by "put in as VE against MAF voltage" (acronym search for VE didn't help - as I said, I'm a yokel). What I'd really like to know is, by completely replacing the exhaust system and adding a cold air intake yet without touching the ECU, is my car's reliability affected in any way? Will everything be as reliable as it would if I had left it completely stock, or will I need to adjust the ECU for the changes I've made? (with something like this)
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Aug 24, 2010 04:40
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poo poo's gonna be loud.
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Aug 24, 2010 06:54
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VE is volumetric efficiency. Check out volumetric efficiency 101. VE and airflow are directly related. When you're setting up the map on the ECU, you define a table that illustrates what air/fuel ratio to target for the given amount of airflow. MAF in this case refers to the mass-airflow sensor; it emits a voltage depending on how much air it senses going past the sensor, which is used to compute the current VE, which is used to look up into the table to figure out how much fuel to throw in to try and get the best air/fuel ratio. You probably don't have to worry about adjusting the tune for your exhaust and intake. You could always tune it to try and get the most out of your modifications but I don't believe it will impact reliability. The only thing I'd be worried about with a cold air intake is (I assume - I haven't seen this particular CAI) the increased potential for hydrolocking after deleting the stock 'snorkel' off the intake plumbing. Baby Hitler's point is that the computer is only designed to see "so much" air; if you increase the flow much past the maximums that are programmed into the tune (and/or the voltage range of the MAF sensor), it just won't do anything with that extra air so you won't see a gain. In this case, I think what you are supposed to do is replace/augment your MAF sensor with a "wideband sensor" and then reprogram your entire tune to take advantage of the additional air you now have available. However, you probably don't need to do that if all you're doing is uncorking an intake. edit: Something else about volumetric efficiency. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Aug 24, 2010 |
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Aug 24, 2010 18:39
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Thank you for the advice guys, I'm not completely clueless now. I love how the advice on this forum doesn't suck. That Epi Inc. page is awesome.
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Aug 25, 2010 00:12
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 sorry if repost.
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Aug 25, 2010 08:53
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Piano posted:
hahaha either that was one hell of a conversion, or somebody is in for a surprise
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Aug 25, 2010 11:46
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Piano posted:
That looks like it's going to end really well. I don't think they're gonna get a measurement other than "0 torque."
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Aug 25, 2010 15:59
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I am confused. Why are there no beer cans scattered around in this picture. Wait I figured it out, miata = cosmos and wine spritzers. Confusion is solved.
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Aug 25, 2010 16:11
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Lyesh posted:I don't think they're gonna get a measurement other than "0 torque." Welp, that's an import for yah.
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Aug 25, 2010 16:15
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Someone is selling a rather beat up NC on CR for 8500 with 45k miles. Somewhat tempting. Also I just sold my stock radio, replacing it with this and a blanking plate.
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Aug 25, 2010 20:14
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Club what?
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Aug 25, 2010 20:33
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Phone posted:Club what?
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Aug 25, 2010 20:43
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Roadstar!!
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Aug 25, 2010 21:54
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destructo posted:Also I just sold my stock radio, replacing it with this and a blanking plate. How does that work? I see it takes USB but don't you need something else to plug into that to actually play music? Forgive me, I am dumb when it comes to car audio. Or any audio for that matter.
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Aug 25, 2010 22:25
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 Painted the headlight chrome rings black today. I like how they came out.
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Aug 26, 2010 00:14
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DreamOn13 posted:How does that work? I see it takes USB but don't you need something else to plug into that to actually play music? Forgive me, I am dumb when it comes to car audio. Or any audio for that matter. It's intended for ipods or any mp3 player, or a phone too. The usb port is just for charging, I think it can't read data, correct me if I'm wrong, and you just take a RCA (red and white plugs) to 1/8th (headphone type connector) and plug in your ipod. gently caress, I might get one too. I knew they were available but didn't know they had usb charging and didn't cost anything at all.
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Aug 26, 2010 03:26
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Piano posted:It's intended for ipods or any mp3 player, or a phone too. The usb port is just for charging, I think it can't read data, correct me if I'm wrong, and you just take a RCA (red and white plugs) to 1/8th (headphone type connector) and plug in your ipod.
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Aug 26, 2010 17:14
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crutt posted:Painted the headlight chrome rings black today. I like how they came out. Hey you live in DFW!
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Aug 26, 2010 17:21
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I don't really think you'll be too much more lean, MAF setups ususally can understand the tiny bit better airflow. If it was a MAP setup, I'd have more cause for concern. Miatas are a badly programmed beast for fuel maps, going open loop above 4000, super rich at WOT, all sorts of funny things going on. There's probably plenty of fuel lying around in the tables it can still address or at least extra overages in those same values against stock VE.
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Aug 26, 2010 17:22
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standardtoaster posted:Hey you live in DFW! get out of here stalker!
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Aug 26, 2010 17:26
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Ok, mnet is useless. Here's the sound that my car is making: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10471269/Memo.m4a . My phone was placed above the heat shield because it doesn't sound like it's coming from the intake. I have a couple of pain in the rear end bolts that refuse to budge on the heat shield, so I can't check at the moment whether or not it's the header's heat shield. I know that some people have complained about heat shields down the exhaust making some noise, but this sounds like it's coming straight from the engine bay.
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Aug 26, 2010 17:43
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