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What's the best approach to changing the oxygen sensors on a 1999? I tried removing the front one with no success with an offset O2 sensor socket and after soaking it in PB Blaster. I couldn't get enough room from the engine bay. The left wheel well had space enough for a breaker bar, but that was also unsuccessful. Is there a special trick or strange angle that I'm missing? I haven't even attempted the rear one yet, it looks impossible without sawing a hole in the center console.
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Aug 27, 2010 01:37
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Phone posted:Ok, mnet is useless. Here's the sound that my car is making: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10471269/Memo.m4a . My phone was placed above the heat shield because it doesn't sound like it's coming from the intake. I have a couple of pain in the rear end bolts that refuse to budge on the heat shield, so I can't check at the moment whether or not it's the header's heat shield. Apparently it's the exhaust cam hitting the poo poo out of some empty lifters!! Oh boy! I'm changing my oil and hoping that the lifter(s) in question fix themselves, if not, I get to pull my timing, pull the cam, and replace some lifters. Are you as excited about this as I am!?!?!?!?
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Aug 27, 2010 02:37
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I'm pretty excited. Is anyone doing any STR-class autocrossing? I've been reading about it, sounds like a pretty cool class.
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Aug 27, 2010 03:52
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Phone posted:Apparently it's the exhaust cam hitting the poo poo out of some empty lifters!! Oh boy! I'm changing my oil and hoping that the lifter(s) in question fix themselves, if not, I get to pull my timing, pull the cam, and replace some lifters. Yeah, that's not normal. Some lifter tick when it's hot or slightly low on oil can be normal - mine gets it bad - but yours is like nothing I've ever heard.
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Aug 27, 2010 04:28
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I may be able to get a good deal on 90s miata with a hard top already installed. For track car purposes, is there anything wrong with the hard tops that clamp on? (I'm not sure if there are other kinds of hard tops)
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Aug 27, 2010 05:08
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RapeWhistle posted:I may be able to get a good deal on 90s miata with a hard top already installed. For track car purposes, is there anything wrong with the hard tops that clamp on? All the hardtops are pretty much the same, yeah. Just slight variations and some have defrosters. They are good to have and I believe are still required for spec miata racing series. Hardtops don't offer great rollover protection compared to a roll bar, but they will stiffen up the car a little and, as far as I know, make it a bit more aerodynamic. It's not even that much heavier than a soft top, 15lbs difference or something(?).
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Aug 27, 2010 05:23
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What kind of oil filters do you guys usually go for when you do your oil changes? OEM or something else?
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Aug 27, 2010 05:25
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Russian Bear posted:What kind of oil filters do you guys usually go for when you do your oil changes? OEM or something else? I've got a Puralator gold on mine right now, but I got it cause it was on sale at the time I needed a change. I've always heard pretty much anything but Fram, and you're alright.
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Aug 27, 2010 05:43
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So i'm in the process of tryin to remove a pesky pre-cat on 99 Miata, i've bought a used pre-cat off a guy to replace it with since mine went bad along after the infamous coil failure. How the hell do you remove the 3 downpipe bolts? i've lifted the car on the drivers side and removed the wheel, but theres pretty much no room for any socket or impact gun with any combination of extentions/joints, even if/when I do, theres no way to get any leverage on those drat things. Wish I had a lift.
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Aug 27, 2010 08:31
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GoblinBomb posted:I'm pretty excited. I will probably end up entering that class with my new 95 m-edition. Asking for a beat down, but that's ok -- I suck anyways.
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Aug 27, 2010 11:54
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Yeah, I'm going street touring, but I'm lucky that I don't have to drive against the Z3s, Z4s, 350zs, and S2000s in STR. No, my 93 with a viscous diff leaves me in STS, driving against the CRX. Unfortunately, even a butt dyno can tell you that my car's down on power. And the clutch is starting to slip at launch. It'll last me until next summer, at which point, I hope I can get a big law summer job and make a ton of money to drop into the engine bay.
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Aug 27, 2010 14:11
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Moruitelda posted:Yeah, I'm going street touring, but I'm lucky that I don't have to drive against the Z3s, Z4s, 350zs, and S2000s in STR. No, my 93 with a viscous diff leaves me in STS, driving against the CRX. Modern Z's actually show-up to AutoX? I've only ever seen one. In fact, I love making fun of them for that reason. It seems to attract more 'posers' who are interested in making their cars LOOK fast, but never actually finding out. Maybe it's just this region. In fact, I've seen more Hyundais at events than Nissan Zs. That said, I'd still love to have one... especially the 370.
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Aug 27, 2010 15:12
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I just looked up some recent results and all the STR cars here seem to be S2000s and Miatas of every generation. Also, GRM's article about their STR MX-5 says that they were expecting to be competitive against the top MR2s and S2000s. From all this I'm assuming that either no one enters the Z-cars/BMWs in STR, or they aren't competitive due to weight.
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Aug 27, 2010 16:40
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I found a Team Miata Hood Lift Kit in my car stuff, haven't the faintest clue how I got it. I think its used, but not sure. They're $45+shipping now, so like $30 shipped? I'll have to come up with a way to keep it compressed, its a good 22" long extended (I know you're salivating now, Mr. Mrs. Miata!)
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Aug 29, 2010 00:16
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Is it worth upgrading suspension bits if the car won't see autocross or should I stay stock when I go to replace them? I'm just starting to get interested in modifying things, what's the first few things that people start with(easiest to do)?
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Aug 30, 2010 06:08
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Russian Bear posted:Is it worth upgrading suspension bits if the car won't see autocross or should I stay stock when I go to replace them? I'm just starting to get interested in modifying things, what's the first few things that people start with(easiest to do)? Adjustable shocks (or Bilsteins?) with the stock springs.
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Aug 30, 2010 06:27
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Russian Bear posted:Is it worth upgrading suspension bits if the car won't see autocross or should I stay stock when I go to replace them? I'm just starting to get interested in modifying things, what's the first few things that people start with(easiest to do)? Suspension setups vary a lot and it depends on what you prefer, really. Softer suspension obviously is more comfortable to daily drive, likewise autocross preferred setups will be pretty stiff. If we're talking strictly coilovers, I don't think many people at all get stock replacements besides whatever was on the R package. I don't know if anyone even sells them(?). As far as I know, the aftermarket stuff is vastly better. Even the lower cost stuff- raceland, vmaxx, etc, is reported to be at least marginally better than stock. If you happen to have a 96 or 97, I'd get some adjustable-s. I'm no HELLAFLUSH guy but the stock wheel gap on the 96/97 is downright silly. Intake/Exhaust stuff is another popular thing people seem to change first. Not too difficult.
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Aug 30, 2010 06:33
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If I were looking for a decent kick in the butt-dyno for my 95M but didn't want to go the turbo route, what would be a good place to start for a few hundred bucks?
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Aug 30, 2010 16:22
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from what I've seen, not much...intakes/exhausts for the miata don't seem to do much, and the general consensus is that the only reason to do them is for aesthetic/sound reasons. best thing to throw a few hundred at would be some nice grippy tires. if you up the budget a bit, you could squeeze in a nicish set of springs/shocks or coilovers.
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Aug 30, 2010 16:49
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Ve a nice set of falkien ziex on it. I don't auto-x it so I'm not worried about the squishy sidewalls.
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Aug 30, 2010 19:15
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I'd get rid of the intake snorkle and airbox (check my previous posts in this thread), and buy a cheap ebay exhaust and call it a day. Some magazine noted that the greddy TI-C added ~7whp onto a 1.6, so I'd imagine you'd find at least that much on your 95. There's a cheap TI-C knockoff on ebay for $250 shipped which I've been thinking of jumping on. It might be a bit loud, but thats nothing another resonator can't fix.
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Aug 30, 2010 19:48
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Put the top down today going 60mph. Undid left latch, undid right latch and was going to try to lower it down slowly, but nope, the second I unlatched it, it went FWOOSH and went down in a split second. Put on my best  face as I passed by the people who saw it. Totally meant to do that.
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Aug 30, 2010 23:30
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Piano posted:Put the top down today going 60mph. Undid left latch, undid right latch and was going to try to lower it down slowly, but nope, the second I unlatched it, it went FWOOSH and went down in a split second. That sounds like a quick way to dislocate your shoulder. 
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Aug 31, 2010 00:00
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Previa_fun posted:That sounds like a quick way to dislocate your shoulder. It gives an excuse for the limp wrists at least. v  v
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Aug 31, 2010 00:36
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Sounds like a good way to lose a soft top to me. The real question is why the top was up in the first place. 
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Aug 31, 2010 02:52
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So, this weekend I done blew up my clutch at VIR. Had problems shifting 4->3 for T1 then couldn't get it back into 4th at all at the bridge straight. Eventually forced it into 3rd in the esses then packed it up for the day. This was early in the session so I don't think there was a chance to overheat anything. Right now everyone's thinking it's your slave cylinder and stop trying to showing off to the internet about doing a track day. Here are the symptoms. Clutch grabs about an inch off the floor, holds fine. Makes an awful grinding sound while the clutch is slipping and makes a sound that I thought was fluid hitting the bell housing but I haven't lost any so I'm not sure what it is. It's a bit of a "woosh" sound when the car accelerates the first time after shifting. No noise while clutch is fully down. Clutch seems to fully engage though and it will stay engaged for at least a minute which makes me doubt slave cylinder lack of noise while disengaged makes me doubt pilot bearing. Any ideas? I'm going to replace the slave for the poo poo of it then see how things look. Hopefully I don't have to break the engine and trans apart.
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Aug 31, 2010 03:15
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Frank Dillinger posted:
What's advantage of springs/shocks vs coilovers?
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Aug 31, 2010 04:19
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Russian Bear posted:What's advantage of springs/shocks vs coilovers? "Coilovers", in the aftermarket suspension lingo, refer to fully adjustable suspension parts that incorporate the shock/strut and spring assembly onto a single unit. The unit also incorporates an adjustable spring perch for changing ride height. This functionality is the main reason for getting coilover suspension, other than the fact that coilovers are usually higher quality than OEM. Coilover suspension is any suspension that has the strut/shock centered within the spring on a single unit (such as a MacPherson Strut)
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Aug 31, 2010 04:51
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The ones with adjustable perches let you corner balance the car. This is meaningless for you. A set of sway bars would likely be your best bang for the buck.
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Aug 31, 2010 22:40
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Tactical Bonnet posted:If I were looking for a decent kick in the butt-dyno for my 95M but didn't want to go the turbo route, what would be a good place to start for a few hundred bucks? I've heard the Randall cowl intake is good for a few horsies. I wouldn't bother on these cars though unless you go forced induction, but that's just my opinion. The suspension stuff is way more noticeable when swapped out.
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Aug 31, 2010 22:51
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How to make power on a Miata: go supercharger (turbocharger is a type of supercharger). To make any sort of power NA, you're looking at long-tube headers, a drastically different intake, a 2001 motor with VVT, a new set of camzzz, and a full exhaust job. It costs $$$, is fairly reliable, and will cost you a limb or two and you'll be making a little bit north of 150whp. There are cheap and expensive FI routes to go that offer more power with less parts, but with any turbo system, you get out what you pay in.
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Aug 31, 2010 22:58
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Phone posted:How to make power on a Miata: go supercharger (turbocharger is a type of supercharger). this. Miatas don't respond well to NA mods, the only way to make them really go is boost or a bigger engine. you can get a BEGI turbo setup with a chinese turbo for 1500ish, or a supercharger setup with an mp62 for 2500 or so. an equal NA setup would cost a good 1500 just for the VVT motor, which would leave you with 140hp. edit: also keep in mind that a turbo system offers far more potential for upgrades in the future, while making a naturally aspirated miata go past 160hp or so is drat expensive. Frank Dillinger fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 09:07
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My brother and I seem to have come across a VG30de engine and tranny from an 85 300zx... We want to do a swap into a nice shell, and a Miata became an obvious choice. Besides that we are considering a few other small lightweight cars, including but not limited to the Celica, 240sx, Datsun 510, and 2g RX-7... Are there any resources or extremely important info we must have to go ahead on this project? This will likely be a project for next summer, but we have ample funding when the time comes. I hope this isn't a Nissan question, I ask here because a Miata is probably the first choice.
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Sep 1, 2010 13:15
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TheFrailNinja posted:My brother and I seem to have come across a VG30de engine and tranny from an 85 300zx... We want to do a swap into a nice shell, and a Miata became an obvious choice. Besides that we are considering a few other small lightweight cars, including but not limited to the Celica, 240sx, Datsun 510, and 2g RX-7... Are there any resources or extremely important info we must have to go ahead on this project? This will likely be a project for next summer, but we have ample funding when the time comes. I hope this isn't a Nissan question, I ask here because a Miata is probably the first choice.
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Sep 1, 2010 15:33
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Frank Dillinger posted:this. Miatas don't respond well to NA mods, the only way to make them really go is boost or a bigger engine. you can get a BEGI turbo setup with a chinese turbo for 1500ish, or a supercharger setup with an mp62 for 2500 or so. an equal NA setup would cost a good 1500 just for the VVT motor, which would leave you with 140hp. The 2001 VVT motor you can find for sub-1000 all day long. There's a local guy selling one with sub-60k for $750ish. It's not that expensive in the grand scheme of things because it's a lot more reliable, but it's not that much power.
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Sep 1, 2010 15:50
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Phone posted:The 2001 VVT motor you can find for sub-1000 all day long. There's a local guy selling one with sub-60k for $750ish. It's not that expensive in the grand scheme of things because it's a lot more reliable, but it's not that much power. Lets say 170-ish hp N/A, versus 250hp for the same cost. Miles more torque and engine durability with the turbo, as doubling the air inside only really increases the peak cylinder pressures by about 40%. Turbo engines are easier to make mild, using stock cams with no issues. The Miata engine can never really rev since its a bit undersquare, limiting the ultimate piston speeds. Does the VVT make that big of a difference? The VVT on the Miata is a strong term for a single changeover intake, its no more complicated than the earliest of Honda systems 23-odd years ago. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 16:07
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How do you figure the engine is more durable with a turbo? I'm not being argumentative, just curious. I would figure that making 250whp, you start to blow up cylinder walls, transmissions, and diffs.
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Sep 1, 2010 16:48
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Phone posted:How do you figure the engine is more durable with a turbo? I'm not being argumentative, just curious. I would guess that a lower compression turbo set would be more reliable than an "extreme" NA buildup on a miata. I have absolutely nothing to back me up but it just seems that a built NA setup would be a lot more high strung than a pretty mild turbo buildup and far less overall performance to boot.
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Sep 1, 2010 17:01
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I'm not sure what full-on race cams do to engines, but I would think that a semi-hot one that retains street driveability wouldn't be devastating to the engine. I do know that the Miata has an awesomely nasty harmonic around 7500rpm.
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Sep 1, 2010 17:11
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Baby Hitler posted:Does the VVT make that big of a difference? The VVT on the Miata is a strong term for a single changeover intake, its no more complicated than the earliest of Honda systems 23-odd years ago. It's not single changeover, it's infinitely adjustable. The stock ECU doesn't really do much with it. I'm bit crunched for time at work now but look up CSP Miatas. They spend a lot of time dicking around with VVT to get up to 160-180WHP with stock internals other than a 1mm overbore/stock compression pistons. Too lazy to rehost but here is full advance vs full retard. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=276072 On a turbo motor but you get the same effect n/a. [edit] This one is basicaly tuned VVT vs no VVT same motor, different ECU. http://www.flyinmiata.com/uploaded/images/hydra%20vs%20tec%20vvt%20off.jpg FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 18:27
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