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Loucks posted:Should I be worried that my SV won't start unless I give it throttle as I hit the starter button? Choke is on. Every time of just when it's cold?
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Sep 1, 2010 15:59
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Phat_Albert posted:Really, I would accept no less than an ECU reflash or a new updated ECU on something as new as an 09. Thats just retarded ECU programming on their part, and telling you that you should plug it in every other day is even more dumb. Yeah, and to add insult to injury, the seat is a pain in the rear end to take on and off. I'll call the dealer and see if they can flash it, but I have a sinking suspicion they're going to charge me a stupid amount of money to do so.
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Sep 1, 2010 16:09
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SlightlyMadman posted:I'll call the dealer and see if they can flash it, but I have a sinking suspicion they're going to charge me a stupid amount of money to do so. I'm pretty sure they will fix it under the warranty. e: Checked up on this. the dealer won't charge for it. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Sep 1, 2010 18:06
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http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1930436543.html Found another fun-looking project bike, an '82 Yamaha Virago that needs work for $350. Check out that kick rear end digital dashboard! Do you guys think it's possible that a carb rework could make this bike run again, because I want to rock that LCD in public. I wonder what the DMV fees for that bad boy would be, considering it's apparently been unregistered for the better part of 20 years.
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Sep 1, 2010 18:39
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Radbot posted:http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1930436543.html In Texas, if a vehicle is not driven while registration is out then they don't charge you for the back time. I'm willing to bet most states have similar policy. ... makes you(makes me) wonder who would answer " Why yes, I have been driving on expired plates for 7 years."
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Sep 1, 2010 19:25
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Radbot posted:http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1930436543.html If it's been unregistered for that long, it's out of the system, so it should just be a normal registration fee. Expect some grief from teh DMV about it though, gonna be worthwhile to sign up for AAA to take care of it for you. And yes, CA charges YOU the back registration if the previous person hasn't registered it.
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Sep 1, 2010 19:31
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PadreScout posted:In Texas, if a vehicle is not driven while registration is out then they don't charge you for the back time. I'm willing to bet most states have similar policy. In CA, it doesn't matter if it was driven or not, as long as it hasn't been registered at all you get charged for the lapse. Unless it's registered non-op, but yeah.
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Sep 1, 2010 19:33
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Loucks posted:Should I be worried that my SV won't start unless I give it throttle as I hit the starter button? Choke is on. If it's working fine otherwise I would definitely not worry about it.
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Sep 1, 2010 19:51
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SaNChEzZ posted:In CA, it doesn't matter if it was driven or not, as long as it hasn't been registered at all you get charged for the lapse. Unless it's registered non-op, but yeah. That was my understanding. It kinda sucks as it essentially scraps a lot of usable older motorcycles in California. Is there any way around this (possibly registering in another state where you've established an LLC or some such fuckery)?
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Sep 1, 2010 20:29
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Radbot posted:That was my understanding. It kinda sucks as it essentially scraps a lot of usable older motorcycles in California. Is there any way around this (possibly registering in another state where you've established an LLC or some such fuckery)? I guess you could, but motorcycle out of state transfers are kind of a pain in the rear end due to emissions fuckery in CA. It's not that expensive, like $15 a year or something like that..
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Sep 1, 2010 21:00
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SaNChEzZ posted:I guess you could, but motorcycle out of state transfers are kind of a pain in the rear end due to emissions fuckery in CA. It's not that expensive, like $15 a year or something like that.. Oh it's quite that expensive. Full cost of registration plus an up to 200% penalty. gently caress CA's bullshit laws.
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Sep 1, 2010 21:49
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I liked the idea of registering it in another state. Maybe find a relative who lives somewhere else and could register it for you? Even just temporarily. Bonus if you can register it in AK: I live in Iowa currently, but I'm still an AK resident, so I register my bikes there...it would cost me about $200 to register a bike here for one year. It costs me $90 to register in AK for TWO years. 
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Sep 1, 2010 21:59
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Bad Munki posted:I liked the idea of registering it in another state. Maybe find a relative who lives somewhere else and could register it for you? Even just temporarily. My 79' CX was $37 for this year in CA.. Love how they go off the price on the pink slip  SV was $74
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Sep 1, 2010 22:34
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Doctor Zero posted:Every time of just when it's cold? Just when it's cold. It fires right up after I stall it trying to take off without giving the guy next to me the impression that I want to race. 
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Sep 2, 2010 00:18
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Bad Munki posted:I liked the idea of registering it in another state. Maybe find a relative who lives somewhere else and could register it for you? Even just temporarily.
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Sep 2, 2010 00:25
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So is Iowa just absolutely loving insane, then? Seriously, $200 for ONE YEAR. wtf? I mean, not that I care all that much, since I didn't register here because of it, but still. Weird.
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Sep 2, 2010 00:26
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Heh, fun fact about the battery tender hook-up I have in my bonne. If you try to use it as a shortcut to jump the battery, you end up blowing the 7.5v fuse on it. I was going crazy wondering why I couldn't jump the drat bike off a perfectly good battery, then finally gave up and took out the battery to take in and hook up, when I noticed the fuse was blown.
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Sep 2, 2010 00:46
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Loucks posted:Just when it's cold. It fires right up after I stall it trying to take off without giving the guy next to me the impression that I want to race. Sounds normal enough to not have to worry about. My bike will start with choke and without throttle, but is sure doesn't sound happy about it, so I usually give it a little blip.
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Sep 2, 2010 15:29
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Doctor Zero posted:Sounds normal enough to not have to worry about. My bike will start with choke and without throttle, but is sure doesn't sound happy about it, so I usually give it a little blip. My old Kawaksaki Police 1000 would start fine cold with just choke, but when it was warm it always needed a blip of throttle.
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Sep 2, 2010 17:20
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My GS always needs a blip of the throttle. Even if you just got off of it after a ride down the highway it won't start worth a poo poo unless you give it a blip while hitting the start button. After the blip/1 second of start button it settles into a totally happy idle. Weird. All bikes seem to have their own personality.
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Sep 3, 2010 01:53
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The manual for my VTR250 specifically states that for a warm start you use a little bit of throttle, so it sounds like it's more or less the norm for a carbed bike. I wonder if whatever fuel is in the carbs etc. evaporates quickly due to the heat of the engine and that's why you need to give it some throttle to start it when it's been ridden?
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Sep 3, 2010 02:55
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There is a hot-start lever on most kick-start dirt bikes, its a known thing with warm carbureted bikes.
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Sep 3, 2010 02:56
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Check Engine Light I turned my CBR1000RR 2008 on after work, a couple hours ago, and the check engine light comes on. I decide to drive the thing half a mile to a friends house, but at below 4k rpms. I let the bike sit for half an hour while we do some stuff, then I drive it with the check engine light on for 4.5 miles to a walgreens. When I come out of walgreens and turn it on, the check engine light doesn't come on. Drove it half a mile home and the check engine light still isn't on. I did change the oil last night, however there was no oil leakage at either of the three places I mentioned. While I typed this I decided to do a test. Whenever I turn on the kill switch without starting the bike, I hear a weird sound and the check engine light comes on. Once the bike is started it goes away. Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc24g7GX8Ig&hd=1 The check engine light goes out after the sound goes away. Thinking maybe it's a pump or something, cause it sounds like it's originating from under the tank. I held the camera at different angles so you could hear the strange sounds better. No motorcycle shops are open so I decided to ask SA on what you guys think may be wrong. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 03:51
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I can't see the video here at work, but most EFI bikes will prime the injection system by running the fuel pump for a few seconds when you flip the killswitch on, which you can usually hear as a high-pitched whine. Don't know why the CEL would come on though. Do you know how to get an error code to display on the dash?
2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 04:18
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Is it alright to patch a small tear in my gear with some sort of heavy duty material? I'm not sure what I'll use yet, but I feel like there has to be some way to salvage my pair of pants. A whole new pair because of one tiny hole? 
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Sep 3, 2010 04:26
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I can't see the video here at work, but most EFI bikes will prime the injection system by running the fuel pump for a few seconds when you flip the killswitch on, which you can usually hear as a high-pitched whine. Don't know why the CEL would come on though. Do you know how to get an error code to display on the dash? I do not know how to show the error codes, and googling how to hasn't showed me anything.
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Sep 3, 2010 04:31
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Stupid question but I'm stumped, and I want to ask before I go spend any money. Got a stock 2007 DRZ400-SM with a dead (Broken?) battery. I assume it is original battery as I got the bike with only 1100mi earlier this year. I had left the key on for too long and it was fairly weak. I drove to work and back the last couple days, about 4 mi. so its a short ride. It got weaker every day until yesterday when it didn't start with just E-start, was able to bump start. I have this. http://baccusglobal.com/2AmpBatteryCharger.html 2-Amp trickle charger. Battery is 12V 6.5Ah I plugged it in after work yesterday for night, this morning I went out to go to work and it did not seem any stronger at all, weaker maybe. Was unable to bump start it. I have it connected to the charger now and it is displaying a green light on the "Battery Charged" but is barely strong enough to turn over when in the bike. My questions are... Is this tender able to actually charge a battery overnight? It is the weakest one they make. Is my battery hosed? Is my charger hosed? What do I buy? New battery or new charger?  Edit: Is it because the charger is saying the battery is fully charged that it isn't charging it anymore? TheDon01 fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 05:02
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http://hondanighthawks.net/electrical_fault_finding.pdf
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Sep 3, 2010 08:49
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Jack the Smack posted:I do not know how to show the error codes, and googling how to hasn't showed me anything. All cars and my bike light the check engine light with the ignition on but the engine is not running. Think about it, the crank sensor detects 0 RPMs. That is a situation that requires attention  . YMMV but this should be normal behavior.The CEL you experienced while riding may have been an erroneous sensor reading that went away. It may come back or you may never see it again. As long as the engine is still running the same it's usually not a dangerous situation . I had a loose fan fuse pop my CEL last year, and even though I knew it was something minor I still cut my ride short.
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Sep 3, 2010 09:14
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To add to the old bike discussion here, in California you have to pay the back fees unless the bike has been unregistered for more than 7 years. After 7 years it drops off the registry and you can register it for just the normal fee. I'm all too familiar with this process as I helped my dad resurrect an 82 CB900c which was a huge mess and he's got another of the same model he's waiting for two more years for it to drop off the registry. If it's been off for more than 7 years you're golden, otherwise be prepared to have a wallet filled only with regret.
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Sep 3, 2010 09:33
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Jack the Smack posted:Thinking maybe it's a pump or something, cause it sounds like it's originating from under the tank. I held the camera at different angles so you could hear the strange sounds better. No motorcycle shops are open so I decided to ask SA on what you guys think may be wrong. Normal, don't worry about it unless the light comes on while you're riding. TheDon01 posted:Edit: Is it because the charger is saying the battery is fully charged that it isn't charging it anymore? Battery is toast.
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Sep 3, 2010 16:49
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I need to clean off some surface rust on a few of my chain links, and I might as well clean the whole thing before I re-lube it. I ordered a POR-15 starter kit to take care of a small gouge in my swingarm and it comes with the POR-15 Marine Wash. Would it be a Good Idea or Bad Idea to use this to clean my chain?
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Sep 4, 2010 00:51
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Okay, I'm getting a little frustrated with this issue. I have a 1981 Honda CM 400A I'm restoring and I just had to replace the master brake cylinder because the seal on the piston was cracked. I got it all assembled and went to bleed the brakes when I noticed the fluid wasn't coming out the other end. I flushed out the entire system before assembling it, I soaked the seal with fluid before putting it on between the spring and the piston. I've triple checked the service manual to see if I did something wrong (I haven't). I've narrowed it down to the fluid not getting past the plug/seal/whatever. It works when I take the seal out but I don't want to do that due to safety reasons.  This is the kit. The seal right below the spring in this picture towards the E clip is what is giving me issues. It's not letting brake fluid through. I've tried it with the reservoir sealed shut, I've tried it just pumping the brake without the reservoir sealed shut. I've made sure my hose doesn't have any obstructions. I've taken the entire cylinder out to make sure the hole from the reservoir wasn't blocked. I've tried it without that seal, and it worked fine. I put the seal back in, and the fluid gets backed up behind it. At this point I have no idea what I'm doing wrong or how to fix this. Do you guys have any ideas? I'm sure I'm doing something retarded. I've quadruple checked to make sure I bought the right kit. It matches up with the old one. Cat Pilot fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Sep 4, 2010 |
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Sep 4, 2010 23:04
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I have to put on a new chain next weekend and don't have a chain tool. Are those screw on master links any good, or should I just buy a chain tool save myself the worry. I've got a '99 ZRX 1100 and would prefer not to use a clip master.
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Sep 4, 2010 23:42
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Karjia posted:master cylinder issues The seal you mentioned...is it in backward?
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Sep 4, 2010 23:53
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No. It has a little nub on it that fits into a hole on the spring. I thought I had done that too (and put the spring in backwards) but I triple checked and I hadn't. My roommate thinks that the piston is too long or something (and a couple other really retarded ideas), but that doesn't make sense since the piston matches up with the old one. is it possible that I need to place the E ring further up? I tried but it popped out pretty easily so I don't think that's the case. I've basically hosed with this for 2 hours already, trying multiple things.
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Sep 5, 2010 00:02
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Schematic on BikeBandit shows: -spring (big end goes in first) -seal (fits over end of spring) -piston assembly -circlip -dust seal You could disassemble it (again ), reinstall just the spring and seal, then press down on the seal with a blunt object (unsharpened pencil, maybe?) and make sure it's not covering the fluid port.
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Sep 5, 2010 00:20
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It's been disassembled since I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. It worked fine when I did that, but only because I could make the spring go back further in the housing then what it would be able to do with the piston installed. You can see the piston from the hole between the reservoir and the cylinder housing. So the fluid is getting trapped between the two seals. If I just add a little more brake fluid then what's called for, can I leave off the seal over the end of the spring? I assume it's there for more pressure and double protection from leakage? I swear, there's an easy answer to all this that I'm somehow missing.
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Sep 5, 2010 01:09
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Karjia posted:If I just add a little more brake fluid then what's called for, can I leave off the seal over the end of the spring? That doesn't sound like a good idea.  Karjia posted:I swear, there's an easy answer to all this that I'm somehow missing. Me too. Let it go a couple days; someone out there knows what's going on.
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Sep 5, 2010 01:45
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Karjia posted:Okay, I'm getting a little frustrated with this issue. I'm not sure if it's the same anymore, but if you look into the reservoir are there two holes? My Honda had once big hole you can see through and one dent that didn't look like a hole at all. Well, there was a very small (like pilot jet sized) hole in there that was clogged giving me the exact same problems you are describing. Try poking a strand of wire in the second hole and see what happens. Mine was clogged pretty good so it took a bit of poking to get through. After that it was all easy going from there.
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Sep 5, 2010 03:57
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