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Bugdrvr posted:I'm not sure if it's the same anymore, but if you look into the reservoir are there two holes? My Honda had once big hole you can see through and one dent that didn't look like a hole at all. Well, there was a very small (like pilot jet sized) hole in there that was clogged giving me the exact same problems you are describing. Try poking a strand of wire in the second hole and see what happens. Mine was clogged pretty good so it took a bit of poking to get through. After that it was all easy going from there. YES!! Exactly like that. I will go and try that out! oh god I hope it works  edit: no good. There's indentations that look like it could possibly be a second hole, but it doesn't go all the way through. The inside is smooth and I took a pick to it just to confirm and nada. drat, I was hoping that would have been the case. Cat Pilot fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 04:01
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Nate Falls posted:Alright, need help diagnosing electric crap. Alright, still trying to figure this one out, have gathered a few more clues. The battery is straight up dead, won't hold any charge from my trickle charger. Managed to get the bike bump-started and get a voltmeter across the battery, and I'm getting something like 5v all the way from idle to revved up (no tach, so I can't be specific). Does that sound like the R/R is toast? Follow-up: Has anyone installed a universal aftermarket rectifier/regulator? Trailtech has one for $35, and boy, that sounds nice compared to $140 or whatever for a OEM one.
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Sep 5, 2010 04:47
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Nate Falls posted:Alright, still trying to figure this one out, have gathered a few more clues. The battery is straight up dead, won't hold any charge from my trickle charger. Managed to get the bike bump-started and get a voltmeter across the battery, and I'm getting something like 5v all the way from idle to revved up (no tach, so I can't be specific). Does that sound like the R/R is toast? Did you replace your collapsed battery? If you didn't, don't worry about your voltage regulator just yet.
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Sep 5, 2010 06:10
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Karjia posted:YES!! Exactly like that. I will go and try that out! oh god I hope it works You need to try with a stiff piece of wire. I did exactly the same thing as you trying to poke at it with a pick. The tip of the pick is way too big to fit in there. I ended up using a high e off my guitar to poke through but you could probably get away with a stiff strand of wire.
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Sep 5, 2010 06:18
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Jack the Smack posted:Check Engine Light Disconnect your battery positive(+)-wire. Ground it (the wire, NOT the battery (+)-socket) to a really good zero like anything in direct metallic contact with your spark plugs. You'll have to use a bit of wire to attach to your (+)-wire to perform this. After the above steps, turn the key to "ON", and let it sit there for at least a minute. More won't hurt. Congrats, if you successfully performed the above steps you've melted the brain of your ECU. (Not really, you've just made it imbecile). It's now in learning mode with all codes cleared. Ride at least 10 miles steady and 10 miles mixed and let it sit. Take a ride again and report back. Edit: The above "drain-the-capacitors-of-the-ECU"-trick is valid for all automotives equipped with an ECU. Cars as well as MCs. gently caress all you've learned about blinking 3 times, turning the headlight high 2 times and poo poo to reset your ECU. The above works. If your ECU has a learning mode, it'll drop to that, if not it'll at least clear any faults stored. Jack the Smack posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc24g7GX8Ig&hd=1 Your Weirdio is marked "private", and I'm apparently not private enough to watch it. Does it contain tits? 
Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 06:42
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Blaster of Justice posted:Did you replace your collapsed battery? If you didn't, don't worry about your voltage regulator just yet. Well, I know I'm going to have to replace the battery. Question is, is the r/r also screwed, and will the screwed r/r damage the new battery if I don't replace it at the same time? 'Cause I can just pick up the battery at Wal-Mart, but if the R/R is shitted up, I have to order it, and that'll take a few days, and I hate having to ride my damned scooter everywhere. VVVVV Was the condescending tone really necessary? Really, dude? Chopsy fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 07:10
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Nate Falls posted:Well, I know I'm going to have to replace the battery. Question is, is the r/r also screwed, and will the screwed r/r damage the new battery if I don't replace it at the same time? It's just your battery. Replace it. We can have a nice conversation afterwards, if you're prepared to listen.
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Sep 5, 2010 07:20
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The only way I think might work to check it is if you can get it started without the battery in the circuit at all. A steady 5V won't hurt a new battery, but it's likely there's a small short in your old battery that is draining the juice faster than the R/R can supply it. That's why it won't go above 5V. The big concern with a new battery getting fried would be if the voltage was jumping around a lot above 14V.
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Sep 5, 2010 15:33
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Bugdrvr posted:You need to try with a stiff piece of wire. I did exactly the same thing as you trying to poke at it with a pick. The tip of the pick is way too big to fit in there. I ended up using a high e off my guitar to poke through but you could probably get away with a stiff strand of wire. I used a dentist pick to search for it (super thin) and a needle. Neither went through  edit: I took a hole punch and hammer to it and got some of the crud pushed down to reveal there is a hole but it's so compressed in there I'm going to have to drill it out. What the christ. Cat Pilot fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 16:17
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Nate Falls posted:VVVVV Was the condescending tone really necessary? Really, dude? Sorry I hurt your feelings. Poor bike too. There's NO significant issue pointing towards a broken voltage regulator. Just replace the battery. Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Sep 5, 2010 |
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Sep 5, 2010 16:37
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Nate Falls posted:VVVVV Was the condescending tone really necessary? Really, dude? Thats kind of BoJ in a nutshell, but he's right, replace your battery first, bikes do all sorts of weird stuff when the battery isnt up to snuff. You'll get low voltage across the terminals when the bike is running if the battery is internally shorted, which is very possible if its completely flat.
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Sep 5, 2010 16:41
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats kind of BoJ in a nutshell, but he's right, Why this condescending tone? Can we still be secret lovers? My first moped was a Kreidler some 30 years ago. Does that count, sweetie?
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Sep 5, 2010 17:26
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Blaster of Justice posted:Disconnect your battery positive(+)-wire. Ground it (the wire, NOT the battery (+)-socket) to a really good zero like anything in direct metallic contact with your spark plugs. You'll have to use a bit of wire to attach to your (+)-wire to perform this. Well poo poo now the problem is gone. Thanks though. Will this affect my bike with a bazazz power commander?
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Sep 5, 2010 20:12
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats kind of BoJ in a nutshell, but he's right, replace your battery first, bikes do all sorts of weird stuff when the battery isnt up to snuff. You'll get low voltage across the terminals when the bike is running if the battery is internally shorted, which is very possible if its completely flat. Ah, an actual answer with an explanation and stuff. Sounds good, cheers man.
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Sep 5, 2010 20:20
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Blaster of Justice posted:Why this condescending tone? Can we still be secret lovers? My first moped was a Kreidler some 30 years ago. Does that count, sweetie? You're just trying too hard to be that guy. Dont make it so obvious. Sweetie.
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Sep 5, 2010 21:03
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I've had some battery fuckery aswell today. Bike really struggled to crank over this morning, and wouldn't catch. (And I was late for class.) I stuck it on the charger for literally less than 5 minutes, and tried it again. Not only did it turn over, it was strong as hell and caught on the first crank, and I repeated that 4 times before I left. 3hrs later after school it was still strong and kicked first crank. WORK OR DON'T YOU PIECE OF poo poo, DON'T PLAY WITH MY HEART. (i'll prob replace it if does it again)
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Sep 6, 2010 05:19
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The Bonneville battery doesn't seem to be quite as bad as rumored. I had a massive deadline that meant I spent Friday-Monday holed up in front of a computer without leaving the house, then hopped on my bike this morning. Since the battery was freshly charged last week, it was able to make it through 4 days sitting and still start up just fine. I don't think I should ever be letting the bike sit that long unless I'm out of town or something, so it's not really a big deal to take the battery inside with me and hook it up to the tender in that case.
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Sep 7, 2010 16:55
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It's still annoying though. My bike can sit for months, all it needs is a minute of prime to fill the float bowls.
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Sep 7, 2010 17:32
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SlightlyMadman posted:so it's not really a big deal to take the battery inside with me and hook it up to the tender in that case. It's not really a big deal to ask your dealer to fix an obvious ECU programming fault either. To each his own I guess. Happy never ending recharging.
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Sep 7, 2010 18:01
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Yeah, I should be able to get the urban tune when I have the chance to head out to the dealer (although they still haven't gotten back to me about whether it's covered by the warranty), but I thought it was worth mentioning that it doesn't die after just a day or two of sitting, or anything like that.
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Sep 7, 2010 18:31
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Nate Falls posted:
Current t-shooting status aside, if you eventually replace the R/R, my generic Happy Sun Moon Star Bubble Joy Fine Fine aftermarket R/R has gone two seasons with no issues. Then again, I don't have a lot of alternatives, as I think the OE is discontinued or ridiculously cost prohibitive. I WISH I paid only $35. Monitor the forums associated with your particular bike, and there will typically be a consensus on which charging system component suppliers are best. Don't be surprised if it happens to be someone who remans the things in his garage. Oh, and tell my mom I said Hi...
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Sep 7, 2010 18:34
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SlightlyMadman posted:The Bonneville battery doesn't seem to be quite as bad as rumored. I had a massive deadline that meant I spent Friday-Monday holed up in front of a computer without leaving the house, then hopped on my bike this morning. Since the battery was freshly charged last week, it was able to make it through 4 days sitting and still start up just fine. I don't think I should ever be letting the bike sit that long unless I'm out of town or something, so it's not really a big deal to take the battery inside with me and hook it up to the tender in that case. Yeah, except the thing should be able to sit for months and still start. It shouldnt really be a big deal for Triumph to fix this and make it right.
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Sep 7, 2010 19:51
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Phat_Albert posted:Yeah, except the thing should be able to sit for months and still start. It shouldnt really be a big deal for Triumph to fix this and make it right. The urban tune is supposed to alleviate it, although I'm not sure if it will give you months or anything like that. Apparently another problem is that the battery won't charge unless the bike is running at >1100 rpm, so on a short ride in stop-and-go traffic, you might not end up ever replenishing the charge you used to start the thing. Hopefully I can swing by the dealer and get it configured this weekend (assuming they get back to me about the warranty), and not have to worry about it ever again.
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Sep 7, 2010 20:19
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Friend just bought her first bike, a 96 virago 250. It's in good shape, and I did al the maintenance it needed for her. (chain, oil, brake fluid, lube points, etc.) There are 2 minor problems that I'd like to get worked out. 1. The throttle response is really laggy. The idle seems good and it starts easy, but when you crack the throttle, it sits there with no change for like 2 seconds, and then revs. It's definitely worse when the bike is cold. When you let it go, the revs come down a lot slower than I expect is normal. I'm guessing the jets are probably dirty? 2. The clutch slips right until the end of the lever play. The cable is adjusted right, but it takes barely any pull on the lever before the clutch lets go. I'm guessing this is just general clutch wear, and she'll need new springs and plates?
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Sep 12, 2010 23:06
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chryst posted:Friend just bought her first bike, a 96 virago 250. It's in good shape, and I did al the maintenance it needed for her. (chain, oil, brake fluid, lube points, etc.) 1) Float valves. 2) Yes.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:18
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After a week of sitting idle due to near-constant rain my 2009 Ninja 500 won't start. When attempting to start I can hear the engine trying to turn over, followed by loud repeated clicking. I suspect an electrical issue. Getting 11.8 volts at the battery, which I believe is a 12v. Used a screwdriver to make contact across the posts at the solenoid, same noise is heard. Haven't removed the battery to check the water levels as I lack a big enough screwdriver to not strip out the screws, but I'm out of ideas.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:39
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Battery needs to be charged to start. 11.8 is too low to start the bike. Get the battery charged and try again.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:42
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If you wanna go for a long rear end ride find a hill and push start it. Drop the clutch in second and hold the ignition switch down and give it full throttle. Then ride around for an hour or so and hope you don't stall the bike.
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Sep 12, 2010 23:54
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Blaster of Justice posted:1) Float valves. Float valves, check. Will inspect/clean/replace tomorrow. Thanks. 
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Sep 13, 2010 00:45
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Z3n posted:Battery needs to be charged to start. 11.8 is too low to start the bike. Get the battery charged and try again. It is charging now. So the voltage marked on the battery is an indicator of the requirement to start the vehicle it is installed in?
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Sep 13, 2010 01:51
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It depends on the bike; it seems like it's a trend in newer bikes to prevent starting for no particularly good reason if the voltage is a little low. Just be glad you don't ride an EFI Triumph.
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Sep 13, 2010 05:09
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chryst posted:Float valves, check. Will inspect/clean/replace tomorrow. Thanks. If it's not the float valves it's worth checking the petcock (I love that word). SlightlyMadman posted:Just be glad you don't ride an EFI Triumph. That only counts if you also refuse to take advise and get the ECU reprogrammed for free.
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Sep 13, 2010 16:16
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I was checking out a Suzuki TU250 the other day and I really like the bike. However, I haven't been able to find any good reviews of it's performance other than "yes it will go 80". I'm wondering if anyone here has had a chance to get out and play with one of these yet?
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Sep 13, 2010 17:18
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So I've been going through that electrical fault finding flow chart thing + the maintenance manual of my bike (CB550SC) and I can't seem to find anything wrong...except for the fact that the voltage across the battery is almost exactly 1V lower than it should be. Off, idle, revved, off the bike...whatever. Its always 12-13 instead of 13-14 like I hear it should be. Since I no longer am panicked about my bike not charging the battery (it does seem to hold steady at this lower voltage) is this something I should worry about? Does it just sound like a battery problem? Or is this a complete non-issue?
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Sep 13, 2010 17:27
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How old is the battery? It's definitely something you should worry about, because it means there's either a problem with your charging system or with your battery.
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Sep 13, 2010 17:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I was checking out a Suzuki TU250 the other day and I really like the bike. However, I haven't been able to find any good reviews of it's performance other than "yes it will go 80". I'm wondering if anyone here has had a chance to get out and play with one of these yet? Its an aircooled 250 single. Its performance will get you to 80, as people say. Other than that, there probably isnt much to say. Expect it to be maybe a high 15 second or mid 16 second bike? If you want that kind of performance info.
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Sep 13, 2010 17:58
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Phat_Albert posted:Its an aircooled 250 single. Its performance will get you to 80, as people say. Other than that, there probably isnt much to say. More like long term reliability info from someone who is willing to take it on the highway.
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Sep 13, 2010 18:26
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Mr. Wiggles posted:More like long term reliability info from someone who is willing to take it on the highway. Oh, well I havent heard of anyone here who owns one, but, speaking in generalities, its a Suzuki, so it will basically be completely bombproof and take anything you throw at it and come back for more.
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Sep 13, 2010 19:17
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Okay thanks!
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Sep 13, 2010 21:51
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Does exhaust pipes get clogged up like a chimney? I have a suspicion that mine are, possibly differently between them as well. Going to pick them apart for rust fixing and painting this winter, very curious about how they look inside.
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Sep 13, 2010 23:05
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