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Saga posted:They're security bolts, not damaged bolts. They aren't designed to come out - you have to drill or otherwise break them. I found my key! Hahaha dear god this makes me so happy. It was in the fridge of all drat places. I'm getting a key cut ASAP!
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Sep 16, 2010 17:47
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You might want to check your jacket pocket for bottles of ketchup or cartons of milk.
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Sep 16, 2010 17:52
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So I'm having problems with my motorcycle. I have a GS Suzuki 2004 500cc. Sometimes when I brake, the engine cuts off. I've been riding it around the residential areas so far. I pull in the clutch, brake, and shift down to first gear and while I'm doing this, the engine suddenly cuts off. Also the oil light is on. I tried this once with 3rd gear-downshifting down to 1st and the same thing. The bike is not forgiving at all compared to the nighthawk at the MSF place. Thanks
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Sep 16, 2010 18:01
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Does the oil light come one when it stalls or is it on before it stalls? The former is completely normal, when the engine isn't spinning the oil pump isn't pumping. If it's the latter, BIG PROBLEMS. Stalling the engine by pulling the clutch in means it's idling weakly. It could simply not be warm enough to run without choke, it might be warmed up but you've left the choke on or there is some other problem in fuel/air delivery. Again, if the oil light is on while it's running, it stalls because the engine is making GBS threads itself.
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Sep 16, 2010 18:06
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dogpower posted:So I'm having problems with my motorcycle. Does it die while running normally? Does it have problems idling? Clutching in and shifting down to first can cause the bike to stall because it's air cooled, if it's cold enough out. Try downshifting and clutching out through each gear to keep the RPMs up rather than just pulling in the clutch and shifting into first.
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Sep 16, 2010 18:06
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Ola posted:Does the oil light come one when it stalls or is it on before it stalls? The former is completely normal, when the engine isn't spinning the oil pump isn't pumping. If it's the latter, BIG PROBLEMS. Only when the bike stalls does the oil light come on. Maybe the bike is simply not warmed up. At the moment I've only been riding 1st and 2nd gear for 30 minutes around the residential area. I didn't want to ride it too long in case I was damaging the bike somehow. I'm also having trouble starting the bike. I let the choke on but I don't pull it all the way because apparently that's bad. So I pull the choke and let the engine run idle for 2-3 minutes where the rpms are at 1500-2000. Then I stop the choke and the engine cuts off unless I give it some throttle. So maybe the engine is not warm enough? I really hope that's the case here. Does it damage the bike if I ride it with the choke on for a bit? Z3n - Nope it hasn't yet died on me while running normally as long as I don't down shift. Thanks for the quick replies.
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Sep 16, 2010 19:21
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dogpower posted:Does it damage the bike if I ride it with the choke on for a bit? No, not for a little while. It might soot up the plugs, ideally you should be able to ride without the choke quite soon after starting. If you need to stop while the engine is still cold, just keep it running by giving it some throttle. But after 30 minutes it should certainly be warm enough to idle on its own. I wouldn't worry about it though, once you get the MSF (and proper gear I hope) done you can take it for a proper spin and we'll see how it performs then. 
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Sep 16, 2010 19:27
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dogpower posted:Only when the bike stalls does the oil light come on. How high are you reving it when you ride it? If you're treating it like a car and really short shifting it, while moving at a reasonable speed, it's possible you could never really get it up to temp. You'll be fine riding the bike around in first and second gear in residential areas. Make sure the oil's at the appropriate levels and has been changed, and enjoy riding your bike around. It sounds like the pilot jets are minorly clogged though. Pick up some seafoam and run a dose of that through the gas tank, try and use the throttle as much as possible as you can safely to get gas flowing through the carbs. A bunch of good full throttle runs up a freeway onramp are perfect for this.
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Sep 16, 2010 19:38
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Ola posted:No, not for a little while. It might soot up the plugs, ideally you should be able to ride without the choke quite soon after starting. If you need to stop while the engine is still cold, just keep it running by giving it some throttle. But after 30 minutes it should certainly be warm enough to idle on its own. I wouldn't worry about it though, once you get the MSF (and proper gear I hope) done you can take it for a proper spin and we'll see how it performs then. Thanks. Yup I got the gear already. I'll try to be more patient. Cheers.
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Sep 16, 2010 19:41
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Z3n posted:How high are you reving it when you ride it? If you're treating it like a car and really short shifting it, while moving at a reasonable speed, it's possible you could never really get it up to temp. I haven't been watching how high I rev it. I guess the tachometer goes over 4000 rpm sometimes. I've only driven automatic in a car before. What's short shifting? The max I've gone so far on the bike is 35km. I got to group ride out into the city for my MSF course on the weekend, so it was a bit frustrating for me to have so much trouble around my block. Checking the oil is on my next to do list once I figure out how. I got the websites for that. I need to find a friend that rides a motorcycle. Will make my life easier. I'll look into the sea foam. Thanks. You guys are awesome with the quick replies.
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Sep 16, 2010 19:53
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Your engine doesn't really wake up until 7000 rpm and will happily spin up to 11000, so no worries there. Short shifting is basically shifting at low rpm.
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Sep 16, 2010 20:14
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So what does it mean if my engine stops even when I'm in first gear and idling? Because I decided to test that out on my bike without revving and the bike died on me each time. Should it be that much harder to ride a GS500 compared to a nighthawk? When I test rode it before I bought the bike, this didn't happen, though I couldn't go that fast because he had no insurance. Should I take it to the shop and see whats up with it?
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Sep 17, 2010 01:28
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How old is the gas in there? Try seafoam before you take it to a shop, although if you're inclined, you could easily learn to take off the tank and pull the carbs and clean them out yourself.
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Sep 17, 2010 01:35
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The gas is at least a week and a half old. I bought it from the guy and haven't changed the gas. Okay I'll try your suggestions before I take it to the shop. I was going to learn how to take care of my bike anyways. Was hoping to try testing it out in the city but I don't feel safe without knowing whats wrong  But I also don't want to take it to the shop because then my parents will think I'm an even bigger idiot for buying a dud. I do feel better that its not yet a total disaster. Thanks
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Sep 17, 2010 01:53
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dogpower posted:The gas is at least a week and a half old. I bought it from the guy and haven't changed the gas. Could be a combination of things, from old gas to clogged pilots, but chances are it's easily fixed. Get some fresh gas in there, add the appropriate amount of seafoam, and go get on the throttle as hard as you can for a bit. If it doesn't clean up, we can start going over how to pull the tank and clean the carbs out, it's not hard. Other basics to check are oil level (as you mentioned you're going to do) and chain slack. You should probably also lube the chain while you're at it. Did you get a rear stand with the bike or does it have a centerstand?
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Sep 17, 2010 01:55
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Z3n posted:Other basics to check are oil level (as you mentioned you're going to do) and chain slack. You should probably also lube the chain while you're at it. Did you get a rear stand with the bike or does it have a centerstand? A good solution for lubing the chain if you don't have either is to put the bike on neutral (turned off, of course, you don't want your fingers torn out by the chain) and then just pull the bike on the sidestand to lift just the back wheel and roll the wheel with the other hand. It's kinda complicated to explain in words but just try it, way easier than moving the bike around a lot.
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Sep 17, 2010 02:19
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I've been having the same problem for a few weeks now. I've run probably 2 tanks of seafoam gas through it and replaced the pilot, main, and slide with a DJ kit. It's still happening to me and honestly, I've gotten used to starting it back up with the clutch in 2nd. I've been told that my clutch might not be disengaging all the way but I haven't attempted to adjust it yet.
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Sep 17, 2010 02:33
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Primo Itch posted:A good solution for lubing the chain if you don't have either is to put the bike on neutral (turned off, of course, you don't want your fingers torn out by the chain) and then just pull the bike on the sidestand to lift just the back wheel and roll the wheel with the other hand. It's kinda complicated to explain in words but just try it, way easier than moving the bike around a lot.
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Sep 17, 2010 05:18
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Primo Itch posted:A good solution for lubing the chain if you don't have either is to put the bike on neutral (turned off, of course, you don't want your fingers torn out by the chain) and then just pull the bike on the sidestand to lift just the back wheel and roll the wheel with the other hand. It's kinda complicated to explain in words but just try it, way easier than moving the bike around a lot.
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Sep 17, 2010 05:20
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So I just had a look over my bike before possibly taking it for a spin to test a stereo mic I've fashioned out of a pair of headphones (more on that in the POV camera thread if it all works as planned), and I've noticed I have chain lube flicked all over the side of my rear wheel. I guess when the bike has been sitting, it has flowed down the sidewall and onto the shoulder of the tyre. I've rubbed it with a rag to remove as much of it as possible, but how fastidious do I have to be here? What's the best way to properly remove this poo poo from a tyre? It's that fairly thick sticky stuff. Only my chicken strips are really affected, but I'm becoming more confident and it feels like I'm leaning more so I don't want to risk sliding out because of this poo poo. The stuff is sprayed all over the chain guard, and has dribbled out near the shift lever as it has flown off the front sprocket and accumulated. Ugh.
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Sep 17, 2010 06:18
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I'd just rub off as much as possible and call it good. The gear oil I use throws off all over the rear wheel all the time and it's never been a problem.
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Sep 17, 2010 06:24
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dogpower posted:So what does it mean if my engine stops even when I'm in first gear and idling? Because I decided to test that out on my bike without revving and the bike died on me each time. wallofwords posted:I've been having the same problem for a few weeks now. I've run probably 2 tanks of seafoam gas through it and replaced the pilot, main, and slide with a DJ kit. It's still happening to me and honestly, I've gotten used to starting it back up with the clutch in 2nd. This also happens to me. I have adjusted the idle speed on the carbs a little and it doesn't do it so much now, but it idles a little high. I still have to keep an eye on it and give it some gas to prevent it from stalling at a light...will be tearing the carbs apart really soon anyway but it's neat to hear that what I thought might be the solution might not work anyway. I have a new clutch and throttle cable on the bike and the clutch is adjusted properly but this still happens.
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Sep 17, 2010 06:49
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I'm trying to think through why this is happening. Could the carb be partially clogged "upstream" from the pilot jet if the jet itself is perfectly clear? And could this be the cause of my/our problem?
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Sep 17, 2010 09:35
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I have a question about bikes lowered on "dogbones". I've been shopping for a new (to me) bike and see this mod listed often, usually lowering the bike by 1". What are the pros/cons of lowering a bike? I'm 6'1" so standover clearance isn't going to be an issue. Would I be better off returning the bike to stock height if the original parts are part of the sale?
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Sep 17, 2010 22:45
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Ground clearance and ease/speed of turn in
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Sep 17, 2010 23:29
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Ground clearance and ease/speed of turn in So lower = less ground clearance but more aggressive corner handling? Also, I'm not Z3n, so maybe more aggressive cornering characteristics are maybe not to my advantage as a less experienced rider?
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Sep 17, 2010 23:36
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I pulled the carb to put the 22.5 pilot back in the DRZ and decided to check the plug which I haven't done since I got it from the PO. I don't know if replacing it will fix my problem, but it can't hurt. Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Sep 18, 2010 00:14
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So I'm looking to buy a bike this winter, in the hopes that I'll get it cheaper. The question is, which bike? Little background; My father has been a Harley mechanic since the beginning of time, and has been riding them since he was 20. I grew up around Harley's and learned to ride on one. Unlike most HD riders though, my dad isn't a douche bag, and has no problems admitting that other motorcycle companies do put out bikes worth riding. All that said, I'm still an amateur rider. I own a 75 Honda CB200 that I drive all over town on a daily basis. It's a super fun bike, but I'd like to move up in the world. I'd like to stay under 4500 bucks for sure. I really really like the SV650, but my wife looks at the backseats of those bikes and cringes. This is a small factor obviously, because 95% of my riding time is going to be solo. That said, It's a factor none the less. Another contender is the Honda 599/919. I'd prefer the small 599 over the 919 because I don't really need 100 hp, but I'm also confident I could handle it safely if I did find a 919 for a reasonable price. What attracted me to the 919 was the more friendly looking rear-seat. Keeping my wife happy is an important part of getting the motorcycle I want.. The Kawasaki Z36n bikes are also pretty attractive, but they seem pretty hard to find. What I'm looking for a rider friendly naked sports bike that will be friendly to 2 riders if they want to take a 200+ mile trip. Does this motorcycle exist? For the money I want to spend am I demanding too much? I loved the long trips I took on the back of my dad's bikes when I was a kid, and I'd like to do that with my wife. Help me SA, you're my only hope. tl:dr - Suggestions for naked sport bikes. SV650, Honda 599/919, Kawasaki Z36n, What else is out there?
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Sep 18, 2010 00:19
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Well, the plug needed to be replaced but it didn't fix my problem. e: My clutch cable had a bunch of play so I tightened it up. It might help, we'll see. Empire Waffles fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 03:00
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himajinga posted:I have a question about bikes lowered on "dogbones". I've been shopping for a new (to me) bike and see this mod listed often, usually lowering the bike by 1". What are the pros/cons of lowering a bike? I'm 6'1" so standover clearance isn't going to be an issue. Would I be better off returning the bike to stock height if the original parts are part of the sale? Yes. You're 6'1", lowering a bike is the last thing you need to do. JohnnyDangerously posted:The Kawasaki Z36n bikes are also pretty attractive, but they seem pretty hard to find. Probably because they don't exist, your don't mean the ER-6n or Ninja 650R do you? But for $4500? Find a 600 with smashed plastics but good mechanicals, fit an aftermarket headlight and a triple-clamp and bar kit. Job done. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 03:13
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JohnnyDangerously posted:So I'm looking to buy a bike this winter, in the hopes that I'll get it cheaper. The question is, which bike? For naked stuff you also have the FZ6/FZ1 (soon to be FZ8 which looks really cool), the Street Triple/Street Triple R/Speed Triple, Ducati Monster, Z1000. The majority of naked bikes have similar ergos - sporty pegs with handlebars instead of clip-ons - so they'll be fairly comfortable. I don't think the SV650 looks that much more uncomfortable for a pillion than any of the other bikes mentioned - just because it's not a banana seat doesn't mean it'll suck. Also, that problem can be straightened out easily enough with a Corbin seat anyway.
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Sep 18, 2010 04:17
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Z3n posted:I'd just rub off as much as possible and call it good. The gear oil I use throws off all over the rear wheel all the time and it's never been a problem. Ta Z3n.
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Sep 18, 2010 04:36
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:For naked stuff you also have the FZ6/FZ1 (soon to be FZ8 which looks really cool), the Street Triple/Street Triple R/Speed Triple, Ducati Monster, Z1000. The majority of naked bikes have similar ergos - sporty pegs with handlebars instead of clip-ons - so they'll be fairly comfortable. I don't think the SV650 looks that much more uncomfortable for a pillion than any of the other bikes mentioned - just because it's not a banana seat doesn't mean it'll suck. Also, that problem can be straightened out easily enough with a Corbin seat anyway. There's also the bandit 600 which, even thought is more of a standard them a naked sport has a really nice powerband and is ridiculously confortable for a naked, especially for the passenger. The 599 SUCKS for passengers! FZ6 too.
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Sep 18, 2010 04:46
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I have knobbies on my bike right now, whats the best way to get a pair of slicks that I can interchange in 10-20 minutes? I haven't really pulled off the tires yet, I imagine its more difficult to change than a bicycle?
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Sep 18, 2010 05:23
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For which bike? for most dirt bikes converting to a supermoto shouldn't be that big of a headache since someone somewhere has done it before and listed everything you need for it. But the first time you swap it'll take an hour or so to do it all but once you get the hang of it it gets quicker. Just unbolt and slide out the front axle and take off the caliper then replace with the new caliper bracket and new wheel. Then the rear its jsut a matter of battling the chain (easy for dirt bikes with lots of play) and the rear caliper (not so fun)
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Sep 18, 2010 06:11
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Ugh, I sent my head and bore to some well-recommend shop in the bay area due to oil burning and told them to diagnose it. They not confirm whether I do or do not have valve guide or valve seal issues, and whether I do or do not have a glazed bore. They just threw at me a hone and a valve job due to "worn seats" and a seal replacement. Apparently he would cut a new seat even though I have PLENTY of adjustment left in the valve shims, and he wasn't even recommending I replace the valves. And he recommended a hone on a plated cylinder, I am now very confused about. In reality, you can't actually hone Nikasil since it is such a hard metal that it is diamond-etched from the factory. People either say it just deglazes it (which can be done chemically with mitric acid), or worse, dulls the cross-hatch diamond machined into the bore. They went on to tell me to break it in hard, because motorcycles come broken in from the factory, notwithstanding the fact that a rebuilt engine hasn't been run at all. These guys have 25 years of experience doing only head work with a huge focus on motorcycles, and lots of referrals on trusted forums. Am I being dumb or do they not know as much as people think they do? MotoMind fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 08:15
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Primo Itch posted:There's also the bandit 600 which, even thought is more of a standard them a naked sport has a really nice powerband and is ridiculously confortable for a naked, especially for the passenger. Why is the 599 and FZ6 so bad for passengers?
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Sep 18, 2010 12:43
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I need some inspiration here. The petcock on my Bandit 600 is missing the knob. The petcock itself works perfectly fine, so there's no need to purchase a complete replacement, but I would like to replace the knob. I have no idea how universal petcocks are, but the mounting rod is 8mm in diameter, with two sides cut flat to 6mm from side to side. It's about 15mm long and capped with a screw which I guess is used to hold the knob on. My current half-assed idea involves cutting up a cheap plastic tire iron, drilling a 6mm hole and widening it at both ends with a round file. I'd prefer a more professional look, obviously. I'll be stopping by an electronics store on monday to see if they have any cheap machined aluminum knobs. Any inspiration or creative ideas are appreciated
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Sep 18, 2010 18:17
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JohnnyDangerously posted:Why is the 599 and FZ6 so bad for passengers? The seat is small and rigid, but most of all the pegs are really high, so the passenger rolls with the legs crammed and the knees really bent, not unlike a passenger in a sport bike.
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Sep 18, 2010 22:56
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KozmoNaut posted:I need some inspiration here. The petcock on my Bandit 600 is missing the knob. The petcock itself works perfectly fine, so there's no need to purchase a complete replacement, but I would like to replace the knob. I think I have a plan. Did you get my mail?
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Sep 18, 2010 23:11
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