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FatCow posted:
I am just going to use a larger strap wrench and a friend.
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Sep 16, 2010 08:00
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Thanks for the advise but when it came time to take the crank bolt off the tools I immediately had next to me was a 21mm 1/2" socket, a 24" breaker bar and a rubber mallet. I combined them and the nut came off. The breaker bar also came off and went flying across the garage. Unfortunately the fuel rail I got seems to be from a 2001+ not a 1999-2000 so the FPR interferes with the block. I'm trying to hunt out a 1999-2000 one but they aren't as common as the NA and 2001+ NB ones. I'll post some pictures of my disaster when I get home.
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Sep 17, 2010 22:03
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1991 NA; I recently started experiencing some serious stall out on startup and some heavy hesitation below 3k rpm. Usually after a few minutes it goes away. I am guessing an O2 sensor. Any other things I should check?
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Sep 18, 2010 06:51
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Hot or cold restart? O2 doesn't quite fit, because closed loop doesn't take effect until operating temperature - and if it was trimmed high, it would run crappy when warm. I'm thinking idle air temperature ... thingy. It's a valve that closes as it warms up, allowing extra air and higher idle while the coolant is cold. The easiest thing to do, is probably just reset your idle - which I'm not 100% sure if its different on the 91... http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html looks similar. Theres also a secondary valve on the throttle body on the 1.6's that keeps the throttle plate from snapping shut quickly, might wanna check that. edit: also, as always, spark plugs and wires. iscariot fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Sep 18, 2010 |
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Sep 18, 2010 07:11
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I'm about to throw my car into the center of the sun.
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Sep 19, 2010 00:34
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Don't do that, It'd be a waste of a good sun.
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Sep 19, 2010 04:08
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Phone is banned from exposing his timing belt in my garage. Actually figured out what I need to get done on this car before it's drivable again. 1. Block off both ends of EGR (Yeah I know there is no power here but I'm not buying the parts I need to make it work) 2. Find a 99-00 fuel rail or hack up the 2001+ one to work with the NA FPR 3. Mount the coilpacks somewhere 4. Finish modifying plug wires to fit in the VVT valve cover 5. Find the intake cam angle sensor? or make a blockoff plate until I actually use the VVT 6. Remove the aircon from the body 7. Install clutch and mate trans to engine 8. Install GM IAT into my intake 9. Install engine/reassemble car 10. Adjust master cylinder and clutch pedal for the new clutch 11. Curse a lot 12. Wad it up at CMP Does anyone know the name for the sensor that goes on the top of the valve cover over the rear of the intake cam? There are two protrusions on the cam that make me think a hall sensor goes there but Mazda doesn't show that part on their diagrams.
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Sep 19, 2010 05:29
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$450 white hardtop in florida. I'm too far away but would rather see a goon snatch this. It's buy it now so someone grab it.
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Sep 20, 2010 07:22
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My MX5 has been reversed into, no note left, massive crack going down the middle of the front bumper. It's a mk2 1.8. Whilst I'm going to be replacing it, is it worth going after market or upgrading the whole hog to a mk2.5 front end with the headlights as well? These are some of my favourite mx5's appearance wise.    
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Sep 21, 2010 00:21
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Sep 21, 2010 00:34
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The Third Man posted:Are they too much  ?Cars black, standard apart from white 15" Volk TE37's and a twin exit exhaust at the back.
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Sep 21, 2010 01:11
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/\/\/\ That sounds nice, you should just stick with that The Third Man posted:
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Sep 21, 2010 04:37
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destructo posted:/\/\/\ But I'm replacing the front bumper anyway, so a mk2.5 bumper and headlight conversion could be worth doing, or even going after market and getting something a bit more aggressive looking that allows cold air to get to an intercooler in case I ever go the Turbo route.
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Sep 21, 2010 04:45
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It's time for a new suspension for my car. It's a '94 with 143,000 miles on it. What are the cool (fast) dudes buying nowadays? I care way more about handling than anything else. I already have the FM sway bars, so I'm talking mostly about the shocks/springs, etc.
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Sep 21, 2010 19:29
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Fatcat Motorsport coilovers.
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Sep 21, 2010 19:30
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mobn posted:It's time for a new suspension for my car. It's a '94 with 143,000 miles on it. What are the cool (fast) dudes buying nowadays? I care way more about handling than anything else. I already have the FM sway bars, so I'm talking mostly about the shocks/springs, etc. I'm awfully happy with my FM Stage 2.5 setup.
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Sep 21, 2010 20:01
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mobn posted:It's time for a new suspension for my car. It's a '94 with 143,000 miles on it. What are the cool (fast) dudes buying nowadays? I care way more about handling than anything else. I already have the FM sway bars, so I'm talking mostly about the shocks/springs, etc. Blaise posted:I'm awfully happy with my FM Stage 2.5 setup. edit: 
destructo fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Sep 22, 2010 |
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Sep 22, 2010 01:20
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Updates.FatCow posted:1. Block off both ends of EGR Done Camera battery is dead, I'll get some pics up eventually. Also, get the FCM shocks. I have them on my track car, even with 600# front springs I could see daily driving the car with them on being possible since the valving is that good. Call up FCM, tell them what you want to do with the car and Shaikh (Shake) will tell you what you actually want. FatCow fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Sep 23, 2010 |
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Sep 22, 2010 03:02
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What's a good exhaust that's not too terribly expensive(like under 250), but a little deeper and throatier sounding than stock? (Non autocross car)
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Sep 24, 2010 09:10
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FatCow posted:Updates. It's basically a daily driver that I like to flog on the backroads when I have free time. I want better handling, and a suspension that's not literally dead from age. It has to be able to deal with really lovely roads without breaking, because Waukesha has it's road repair on the bicentennial plan. ed: http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm so this is what I'm looking at? That's actually cheaper than I expected. I figured I'd be looking at 2k at least, so if I can get a full set of those with springs for 1500, that's pretty much perfect. mobn fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 24, 2010 |
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Sep 24, 2010 20:07
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Russian Bear posted:What's a good exhaust that's not too terribly expensive(like under 250), but a little deeper and throatier sounding than stock? (Non autocross car) Try offering $225 or so, they should take it.
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Sep 24, 2010 22:52
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mobn posted:It's basically a daily driver that I like to flog on the backroads when I have free time. I want better handling, and a suspension that's not literally dead from age. It has to be able to deal with really lovely roads without breaking, because Waukesha has it's road repair on the bicentennial plan. I would definitely recommend getting a set of Bilsteins or Koni Sports and a set of H&R race springs or similar high quality springs. You will spend HALF of that FCM coilover package ($700-800 at shox.com) and it will still handle incredibly. I have the H&R race springs, Bilstein sports and Racing Beat sways and I love them. Handles very nicely on the race track and is good for daily driving as well. When I'm beating Ford GT40s and Lambo LP640's around the track with basically a stock motor, it can't be that bad. A setup like the FCM is complete overkill for a daily driver and weekend back road duty. It's more for someone who knows exactly what spring rates they want and is corner weighting the car.
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Sep 24, 2010 23:56
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mobn posted:Waukesha has it's road repair on the bicentennial plan. The few roads that I had to drive on seemed fine a couple of weeks back! (Drove up there to buy my 2.5RS.)
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Sep 24, 2010 23:59
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Moruitelda posted:The few roads that I had to drive on seemed fine a couple of weeks back! (Drove up there to buy my 2.5RS.) I'm not joking when I say that there's literally 37 potholes between my apartment and school 10 minutes away. That's not even getting into areas where two sections of road are different heights and you just sort of crash into the raised lip of the higher bit of road as you go over it, or spots where railroad tracks are integrated into the road badly and are an inch above the concrete. It's crap. aventari: where would you recommend to go to get the best price on those? This car, old as it is, will almost certainly never be tracked, so as long as it corners fairly flat and handles appreciably better than stock I'll be happy.
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Sep 25, 2010 01:39
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I like shox.com but that's because they're in San Diego and I can go pick it up and avoid shipping. I think their prices are p. good regardless though.
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Sep 25, 2010 01:44
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I think the 2011 Mazda2 understeers a lot less than the NC2 MX5. I just test drove both back-to-back, and it was a good time (tm). The Mazda2 is super engaging, the 5-speed is nice, short and just like the NA/NB box. The important controls are in the right spot, brakes grab well, the steering is spot on, and the engine just moves you. It seems like a perfectly reasonable car to buy for commuting if you want something that is fun and engaging. It has no trouble getting up to speed and maintaining speed, but if you floor it in 3rd and expect to have something happen, you'll be sorely disappointed. The NC2 MX5 drives just like the NA except when you mash on the throttle, you receive horsepowers and torques in return. The steering is better than the Mazda2, but just wiggling it on the road a bit, it seemed like the Mazda2 wasn't as floaty. There was a right hand 90 degree corner that the Mazda2 took at a pretty decent clip with only a smudge of understeer, but the MX5 was like LOLOLOLOL when I turned it in. I took it around the cloverleaf interchange a couple of times and I had to trail brake like mad in order to keep it planted. It was a sport model (or whatever else the base one is) with the 5 speed without the Torsen in the rear and no Bilstein shocks*, but either the shocks are poorly valved or the stock alignment is more than atrocious. It's still a fun car, though. My theory is that the Mazda2 didn't understeer as much as the MX5 just because the power wasn't there, but it really blew me away with how much fun it was to just take out. *NC Bilstein shocks: Apparently the factory Bilsteins are loving horrid and you get better results slapping some off-the-shelf Koni yellows.
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Sep 25, 2010 20:29
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Got the car fired up today and it idles well. Trying to figure out the last details so I can drive it again. Crossposting this from miata.net in case any one here has any better ideas.quote:I have a 2001 motor in a 1997 shell. I have everything connected except for the NBB coilpacks. I currently have the 1997 coilpacks plugged into the harness so I could get the motor fired up and make sure it worked well but that isn't a decent long term solution. I have a set of 2001 coilpacks for the motor but no good way to splice them into the 1997 harness.
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Sep 26, 2010 03:42
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If you're decent with soldering you could always just get quick release connectors for both ends and just cut/solder the plugs on. Question: Does the front subframe brace bolt onto nuts that are soldered to the frame? I have a brace and two bolts, just curious if I need anything else at this point.
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Sep 28, 2010 02:40
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I got a Tsudo N1 exhaust off a Miata that was in a gangbang (front and rear smashed) and although it held up somewhat, I'll have to reweld the muffler seams and replace in inlet elbow. The build quality looks alright. There's also the header still on the car, anyone in the Bay Area want it? Its at the San leandro Pick N Pull in about the 5th Row of the Import section.
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Sep 28, 2010 03:02
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Phone posted:I think the 2011 Mazda2 understeers a lot less than the NC2 MX5. I just test drove both back-to-back, and it was a good time (tm). I feel about the same about the Mazda2, I really like it and my girlfriend likes it and I think she's gonna get a manual one for me to teach her on in February or so! edit: I drove a Fiesta (auto and manual) the same day and it was slightly more comfortable, but felt a lot slower despite extra power and was really disconnected. The Fiesta mantran was pretty unpleasant compared to the 2. The NC1 Bilsteins are awful, but I think the NC2's are better. The base shocks are bad too. I have the Bilsteins and I still haven't upgraded because of cares, but close to the end of this year I will fix all that. M.net says the NC gets pretty awesome with good shocks, so I'm excited. GoblinBomb fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 06:12
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Lookin' for a diagnosis. 1999 NB, 65k or so. Within the past few days, whenever I'm going <10 mph or so, if I put the clutch in, I hear a high-pitched grinding noise. If I put it in gear and let the clutch out slowly, I hear a lower pitched grinding noise. The former is more like belt-squeaking than anything else, but it's not belts. The latter sounds like if you go touch-and-go on a wire-wheel, if that makes sense. Both noises are intermittent, but fairly frequent. They occur mostly when the car is cold, but the latter noise occurs pretty much all the time. I'm thinking thrust bearing from cursory looks around google. Anyone want to back that up? ...and in that case, anybody in southern MA who wants to help a fellow do a clutch pretty soon? 
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Sep 28, 2010 15:09
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Can someone with a 2001+ Miata do me a huge favor and take a picture of the plugs that go into the coil packs showing the colors of the wires? I want to make sure I make my adapter correctly so I don't melt a coil.
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Sep 28, 2010 16:22
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Phone posted:I think the 2011 Mazda2 understeers a lot less than the NC2 MX5. I just test drove both back-to-back, and it was a good time (tm). I haven't driven an NC (as much as I love my NB, I won't be buying another Miata; cramming myself under a ragtop makes no sense for my 25-mile commute on a ruler-straight freeway) but I did drive a Mazda2 and came away truly impressed by its driving dynamics. I was sorely disappointed when I stood on the gas in third (first and second are fine) - I knew I would be, and it's not like it's scary slow, but you can definitely feel the ~40hp it's down on the NB. Remarkably similar curb weights between the two, especially given how much more room there is in the 2. If they ever release some form of a hotted up version - be it a turbo on a 1.5 or 1.6, or even shoving a 2.0/2.3/2.5 in there, I'd probably trade the NB in on it tomorrow. Shlomo: It's not more like a rattling? I've never heard a grinding sound out of my NB but ever since I bought it, it's been rattly as hell with the clutch out in neutral. That was 60k miles ago with no change in noise or behavior since.
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Sep 28, 2010 18:13
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No, it's most definitely more than rattling. It's like when you put a sander to wood, that sort of thing. No discernable loss of power, but the noise is disconcerting (and distracting). I just want to be sure I'm not like, driving someday only to have some part of the clutch just fall and get wedged someplace.
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Sep 28, 2010 18:23
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Savington posted:If you're building a 1.8 without a VVT head at this point, you're a fool. When did you get that title?
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Sep 28, 2010 18:36
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Lookin' for a diagnosis. If you mean 'throwout bearing' and not thrust bearing I'd say yeah. Try this: put the car in neutral with it running. Push the clutch in and out. If the noise happens when the clutch is in and goes away with it out, then it's the throwout bearing.
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Sep 28, 2010 20:04
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aventari posted:If you mean 'throwout bearing' and not thrust bearing I'd say yeah. Throwout is what I meant. Sorry bout that. And the noise occurs as you say; I don't even have to test it. Crap. I reiterate: Who wants to help do a clutch in MA? I can drive to see you! 
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Sep 28, 2010 20:18
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Doing a clutch is easy-peasy. Buy the matched set from autozone and yank the tranny out, machine the flywheel, replace clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Insert transmission. drive.
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Sep 28, 2010 20:56
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Doing a clutch is easy-peasy. Buy the matched set from autozone and yank the tranny out, machine the flywheel, replace clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Insert transmission. drive. Oh, I'm sure I can do it, but it always helps to have people 'round who've done it before. I can rebuild my brakes in two hours now, but it took two days the first time I did it, if you get my drift. Also, I can buy beer or what-have-you. party ova here
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Sep 28, 2010 21:10
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Oh, I'm sure I can do it, but it always helps to have people 'round who've done it before. I can rebuild my brakes in two hours now, but it took two days the first time I did it, if you get my drift. +1. I'm sure I could do my clutch with help, but I'm not sure I could even get it out without damaging something. I've done a pad/rotor job once and I could have done it alone, but it seemed mighty daunting to attempt without help.
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Sep 28, 2010 21:17
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