|
Blaster of Justice posted:I think I have a plan. Did you get my mail? I did. I'll have to get back to you, but saturday sounds good.
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2010 23:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 23:35 |
|
|
Does anyone have any recommendations on a ramp to get my bike into a truck? I'm looking for something that I can actually walk up with the bike. Cyclegear has trackside folding ramps on sale for $70 right now and I was thinking about buying two of those so I can walk up one and push the bike on the other, but it would probably be easier with just one wide ramp.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 09:30
|
|
|
I can't make any progress with my 1977 KZ1000. It's been hard starting forever, but the carbs are clean and jets seem correct for the current setup, with pods and a pipe. I can't go back to stock because I never had the stock parts. I replaced the battery, as the old one wouldn't charge. After sitting for a few weeks, I put a trickle charge on overnight. Bike won't crank at all. Lights are bright, and when I press the starter, I get one solid click, and the lights go dim. They stay dim for several minutes, but eventually seems to come back. I recently put in new plugs, but the ones I wanted weren't in stock. They sold me the same plug with a resistor (NGK BR7ES instead of B7ES). Would this have anything to do with it? I can't even continue fine-tuning the hard starting from before, which I blame on the carbs, some oil in the cylinders and the old plugs. I need to know my electrics are working 100% first. What do I start with? Also, would love to work with a friendly knowledgeable CA goon in the Central-SW Ontario area (Kitchener-Waterloo-Cambridge) if anyone has a use for free beer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 14:10
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:1977 KZ1000. Voltage regulator and ignition coils.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 14:25
|
|
|
Diag steps for those?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 14:50
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Diag steps for those? Sorry, I'm kind of tired. I can't remember inner and outer wiring resistance for ignition coils on random bikes on top of my head. Your voltage regulator is definitely hosed though. Just replace it and go from there. Haynes and Clymer manuals are available for your bike. I'm pretty sure prober steps for measuring ignition coils are described.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 15:24
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:I need some inspiration here. The petcock on my Bandit 600 is missing the knob. The petcock itself works perfectly fine, so there's no need to purchase a complete replacement, but I would like to replace the knob. BikeBandit doesnt sell the knob?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 17:37
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:BikeBandit doesnt sell the knob? Had a quick look, couldn't find any. Besides, I'm not too keen on paying US-to-Europe shipping on something that small 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 20:05
|
|
|
Blaster of Justice posted:Sorry, I'm kind of tired. I can't remember inner and outer wiring resistance for ignition coils on random bikes on top of my head. Your voltage regulator is definitely hosed though. Just replace it and go from there. Thanks, but what leads you to this conclusion? I only ask because I'm not learning much about fixing my bike if I just replace the parts I'm pointed to, and it magically works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2010 22:18
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:I can't make any progress with my 1977 KZ1000. It's been hard starting forever, but the carbs are clean and jets seem correct for the current setup, with pods and a pipe. I can't go back to stock because I never had the stock parts. Battery/charging system check: You should be getting 12 volts off the battery terminals when the bike is off if the battery is good. While running, you should get a similar amount with the bike at idle and up to 14 volts when the bike is revved up a bit. Significantly higher or lower and your charging system needs work. If it's significantly higher when revved, your R/R is bad but your stator is fine - if it's lower, your stator might be gone and it won't be possible to know if the R/R is doing its job. Cranking issue: If you get a click, that's one of two things. First is that the battery is too weak to cycle the starter motor, although this has to be EXTREMELY dead because even a nearly-dead battery should still very slowly crank the starter. Second option is, your starter solenoid is bad and is failing to crank the starter motor. You can test this by taking your solenoid and routing battery power directly to its terminals to see if it "clicks" and the switch activates. Hard starting: Carbs are almost always the culprit for this, especially if you have pod filters and stuff. However, if you've poked around the carbs, there's a couple other causes. One could be your coils, although if the bike runs at all this is going to be less likely. Another option is low compression due to tight valves. It's an easily-eliminated option if you have a compression gauge handy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 04:07
|
|
|
dogpower posted:So what does it mean if my engine stops even when I'm in first gear and idling? Because I decided to test that out on my bike without revving and the bike died on me each time. Try turning up the idle speed adjuster (should be a cable-mounted wheel on the average street bike, but may be a screw on your carbs - check manual). It may just not be set correctly. Don't force it to idle at 4,000 rpm though(!).
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 06:42
|
|
|
Just changed the oil on the Warrior this weekend. Whoever did it last cranked the oil tank drain bolt, and it's partly stripped. I didn't get any threads coming out with the bolt, but it's doing the thing where it won't tighten. It seems to be good enough to not leak, so I should be able to let it alone till the next change, I think. At that point do you guys prefer helicoils, or re-tapping?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 15:35
|
|
|
chryst posted:At that point do you guys prefer helicoils, or re-tapping? Helicoils. Definitely! Oversize plugs are available for your bike, but I'd go for a Helicoil replacement and never have to bother about it again. Also re-tapping isn't quite simple for a conical bolt/plug.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 16:24
|
|
|
Blaster of Justice posted:Helicoils. Definitely! I used a Helicoil on my GSXR when I pulled the oil plug and found the threads on the bolt. Ended up pulling the exhaust and dropped the oil pan off, and tapping it out and then using an insert from a spark plug repair kit. Luckily my oil bolt and a spark plug are same size so the process was pretty well documented.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 16:29
|
|
|
NeuralSpark posted:I used a Helicoil on my GSXR when I pulled the oil plug and found the threads on the bolt. Ended up pulling the exhaust and dropped the oil pan off, and tapping it out and then using an insert from a spark plug repair kit. Luckily my oil bolt and a spark plug are same size so the process was pretty well documented. Do you have pictures of this? Ripping the threads off a Helicoil takes some serious effort. Also who has an extra spark plug repair kit readily available? Does things like this happen often for you? I think you need to take a break from the power-lifting 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 17:02
|
|
|
Blaster of Justice posted:Do you have pictures of this? Ripping the threads off a Helicoil takes some serious effort. Also who has an extra spark plug repair kit readily available? Does things like this happen often for you? I think you need to take a break from the power-lifting Sorry, that wasn't clear. I used a Helicoil AFTER I found the threads on the bolt from the previous owner. The local Advance had a kit for like 9 bux.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 17:16
|
|
|
wallofwords posted:Well, the plug needed to be replaced but it didn't fix my problem. Just to update and maybe help others. I replaced the air filter with the "No-Toil" from NAPA and my problem has been fixed. The bike now properly idles after coming off the throttle. It turns out that when you replace the gas, electrical and air delivery, your running problems are solved. Magic!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2010 20:23
|
|
|
Double post
Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2010 20:03
|
|
|
I cannot find a USB power socket that will work on a motorcycle other than this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230499040243#ht_500wt_1182 Does anyone know if this is the only available one? $30 is kinda steep, and I don't need it to be weather proof. Edit: Nevermind. That charger isn't fully powered and wont charge iphones. I'm just getting a hardwired Car Charging socket from a friend then I'll plug whatever adapters into it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2010 20:42
|
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:I cannot find a USB power socket that will work on a motorcycle other than this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230499040243#ht_500wt_1182 There's dedicated iPhone chargers out there (think Powerlet are the company who make them). Just add them to the battery terminals and route the cable wherever you need it to be to plug into your iPhone. Tidier than drilling holes into your fairing for a car charger socket.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2010 20:50
|
|
|
Just get a normal iPhone car charger and hack the stupid dildo connector off the end and hardwire it up. Edit: This is a bad idea. See below. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Sep 23, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 01:04
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure the dildo part has a resistor in it to bring the voltage down to 5 from 12 or whatever it would be at the battery. I hardwired a socket which hangs out under my seat. When I need to plug in my phone I pop the seat off and route the charger up into my tank bag.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 05:44
|
|
|
MotoMind posted:Just get a normal iPhone car charger and hack the stupid dildo connector off the end and hardwire it up. Thanks, I did something similar. Soldered a ground to the outside of a car charger and the positive end to the nipple and wrapped it in electric tape which turned it into a USB to hardwire. Also added a switch and I just have it directly connected to the battery terminals.  Now I need to figure out how to rainproof it (although it's under the windshield)
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 19:01
|
|
|
Did you add a fuse?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 19:17
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Did you add a fuse? Yep.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 19:33
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:I'm pretty sure the dildo part has a resistor in it to bring the voltage down to 5 from 12 or whatever it would be at the battery. You are probably right. I was basing my suggestion on what I did for a device that is set up internally for 12VDC. Clearly it would not turn out well for a device that wants 5V, sorry. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:29
|
|
|
'Sup crazy Cycle goons. I've already asked about this in "Tell me what bike to buy!" but I'm going to look at one of the bikes tonight and I'll take whatever input I can get before then. Bike pick #1: http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/mcy/1967015027.html (good condition, hardcases and windjammer/fairing. Is the price too high?) http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bnc/mcy/1968425500.html (Cheaper and not as pretty, no hardcases/windjammer.) Background: Learned as teen on a '81 Maxim 1100, and I'm a big boy (230 lbs, 6' even). $2000 is the top of my budget(still have to pay for riding gear), and I don't have a car. So: this bike will be going around town and on road trips. Also: Shout out to any Vancouver bike goons. Wurd. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:36
|
|
|
That first one is definitely priced too high, the second one could be a great deal if everything is in good shape and you could probably bargain him down a bit more. The fact that the second one has 15000 miles less is somewhat appealing, but at that age, it's more about how the bike was maintained than actual mileage.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:42
|
|
|
Z3n posted:That first one is definitely priced too high, the second one could be a great deal if everything is in good shape and you could probably bargain him down a bit more. Awesome. Thanks Z3n! I'm sure I'll post back in a few with an update and more questions. I'm a pretty handy guy with electronic gear and furniture, now I have to become handy at bike repair and maintenance... 
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:59
|
|
|
Good Ship Theseus posted:'Sup crazy Cycle goons. I've already asked about this in "Tell me what bike to buy!" but I'm going to look at one of the bikes tonight and I'll take whatever input I can get before then. I think I can explain what's going on with the side cover on the Custom in link 2. I know it looks like the work of Red Green, but the covers for some C and SC models fetch $300 a pair in OK condition. For those so inclined, it wouldn't be hard to finance the purchase of one of these by selling off the rare parts. Assuming $US/CDN parity, the '79 is overpriced a bunch, but if you're dead set on it and don't need the bags and whatnot, one way to get the price down is to see if he'll part with the bike alone. There's some sentimental value baked into that number, and maybe it's intentionally high--sometimes these are token ads designed to appease a SO. Speaking of, tis the season for garage cleanout, so you have the upper hand. Use it, or hang in there for a more desperate seller.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 22:27
|
|
|
Saga posted:Try turning up the idle speed adjuster (should be a cable-mounted wheel on the average street bike, but may be a screw on your carbs - check manual). It may just not be set correctly. Don't force it to idle at 4,000 rpm though(!). Is it that much of a problem if the bike stalls while idling in first? My new bike has done it ever since I bought it, so I've just adapted to keeping the clutch at least partially in (came from a CT-110 which has an automatic centrifugal clutch instead) or shifting it into neutral.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 09:38
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:Is it that much of a problem if the bike stalls while idling in first? My new bike has done it ever since I bought it, so I've just adapted to keeping the clutch at least partially in (came from a CT-110 which has an automatic centrifugal clutch instead) or shifting it into neutral.  read through that sentence again, keep in mind that normal motorbike clutches are not centrifugal edit: do you mean while moving really slowly, its normal to slip the clutch a bit at walking speeds but if you're stopped the clutch has to be in or the bike has to be in neutral? echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 25, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 13:04
|
|
|
Jack the Smack posted:
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 19:06
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:Is it that much of a problem if the bike stalls while idling in first? My new bike has done it ever since I bought it, so I've just adapted to keeping the clutch at least partially in (came from a CT-110 which has an automatic centrifugal clutch instead) or shifting it into neutral. Idle is just for when you're stopped, it's not meant to take you places...unless you're on my bike which idles at 15 mph in first.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 19:18
|
|
|
Cross-posted to the sv650 thread, but if I pull my spark plugs and they're pretty much blackened from halfway up the threading all the way down to the gap, should I be fiddling with my carbs, too?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 22:10
|
|
|
echomadman posted:
The latter. If I'm stopped in first and let the clutch out completely the bike stalls unless I'm revving.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 17:05
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:The latter. If I'm stopped in first and let the clutch out completely the bike stalls unless I'm revving. Wait, you're sitting still and you're able to completely release the clutch if you rev it a bit? Your clutch is slipping BIG TIME, either your clutch cable is way too tight or you need a new clutch or you've got some fancy car engine oil with additives that don't agree with your clutch. Possibly all three from you're describing. EDIT: Durr, "car engine oil", not "car engine"  vvv Those repairs that you didn't do are holding up just fine
KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Sep 25, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 19:37
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:The latter. If I'm stopped in first and let the clutch out completely the bike stalls unless I'm revving. That's pretty much normal clutch operation, you know? A bike is not an US autotrain V8 car. If you really meant that your clutch can't hold your bike still at a stop, then yes, you'll need to adjust and possibly service it. Regarding the above post - DISCLAIMER! I did NOT help make an intermittent petcock lever repair, some silly choke lever and spark plug cap fix for this guy today. It didn't happen. I've never seen this guy Whoever it was it weren't me Your clutch aren't slipping, from what I read, you just need to learn how to operate a bike, Sir.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 20:11
|
|
|
Looking to get a 2008 Duke 690. Need to secure myself a 6k loan. I have pretty good credit. Can anyone recommend someone? I'm down to do it online, but if only you only know local places, anywhere in the Los Angeles area would be awesome. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 22:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 23:35 |
|
|
ari.gato posted:Looking to get a 2008 Duke 690. Need to secure myself a 6k loan. I have pretty good credit. Can anyone recommend someone? I'm down to do it online, but if only you only know local places, anywhere in the Los Angeles area would be awesome. Try credit unions, they're usually the best.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 23:18
|
|