|
Dumb newbie question: When I'm coming to a stop, I ease on to the front and rear brakes while simultaneously holding in the clutch and gradually downshifting to 1st. Should I be releasing and re-applying the clutch between each downshift or is my technique OK?
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 17:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 06:22 |
|
|
You get extra stopping power by using the engine braking, but it's not very important when you just brake normally. If anything, clutching out on each downshift is good as it helps you train good downshift / throttle blip technique.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 17:29
|
|
|
What Ola said. I personally slow down by downshifting, but I just hold the clutch in the whole time if I'm coming to a stop. I guess it depends on how fast I need to stop. Remember if you're just using engine braking, your brake lights don't shine. You will want to at least feather the brake lever if there's a car behind you so they don't drive up your rear end.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 18:43
|
|
|
Uthor posted:What Ola said. I personally slow down by downshifting, but I just hold the clutch in the whole time if I'm coming to a stop. I guess it depends on how fast I need to stop. My bike pops a bit on deceleration, kinda goes with a slip-on that's only a muffler in the loosest sense of the word, I can't shake the feeling that it's bad for the engine somehow, though I've been assured by multiple people that all 4-stroke engines pop on deceleration when barely muffled, even when they're in perfect tune. So after being re-taught about driving carbed vehicles (thanks BoJ!), I generally just hold the clutch in and use the brakes when slowing down for a stop, but if I need to change speed from say 110kph to 80kph, I'll just let it engine brake and enjoy the soundtrack  On an EFI bike I'd probably do what I do in my car, keep it in gear as long as possible, usually with a downshift or two, otherwise wait until the revs drop to near idle and pull the clutch to utilize the engine braking.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 21:12
|
|
|
Where can I find good online deals on tires? I'm sure this has come up several times in the thread, so I apologize for asking again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 21:43
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:So after being re-taught about driving carbed vehicles (thanks BoJ!) No problem mate! I'm picking up the V6 3.0 Peugeot I rabbled about next Friday.You'll be welcome for a testdrive  I have seriuos troubles selecting the right turbo for it, I might start a thread and hope Baby Hitler chimes in. I'm kind of scared. It's loving fast as is ....just not enough.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 21:58
|
|
|
"[panic posted:"] If you're coming to a stop, why are you adding the extra step of whipping in the clutch while you're braking (thus taking away your engine braking as well)? Just shut throttle, brake, and then clutch in and kick it down to first when you're about to stop. Blaster of Justice posted:
406 Coupe?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2010 09:39
|
|
|
Saga posted:406 Coupe? Wagon. Too many wheels for this forum though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2010 10:46
|
|
|
Uncle Ivan posted:Where can I find good online deals on tires? I'm sure this has come up several times in the thread, so I apologize for asking again. I've liked Dennis Kirk so far. I got my Spitfire's from him and they seem to be the cheapest, and don't charge and arm and a leg for shipping.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2010 14:54
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:My bike pops a bit on deceleration, kinda goes with a slip-on that's only a muffler in the loosest sense of the word, I can't shake the feeling that it's bad for the engine somehow, though I've been assured by multiple people that all 4-stroke engines pop on deceleration when barely muffled, even when they're in perfect tune. Yeah, they'll all do it unless there is a coast enrichener in the carb, which there rarely is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2010 22:13
|
|
|
Doing my first Chain install tonight, when I'm counting the links, does the master link get figured into the count? Like, say I need 114 links, I count out 113 and then the master for 114? e: fuckdammit i need an actual chain breaker and not the gimpy little harbor freight deal I got Phy fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Oct 6, 2010 |
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2010 00:03
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Yeah, they'll all do it unless there is a coast enrichener in the carb, which there rarely is. It's great because everyone stares, it's like they think it's going to blow up at any moment, but then I blast off at 12K rpm and all the kids point and gawk in awe and all the guys want to be me and all the ladies want to be with me and all is right with the world once again  In my mind.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2010 09:16
|
|
|
Supermotos are just like that with more wheelies. Phy, I think it's 114 links in the chain plus the master link. But I've actually never bothered to count it out myself. I use a dremel to grind the rivets on the side plates flush and seperate them with a screwdriver and a hammer (carefully, so I don't abuse the inside of the link that will be used).
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2010 18:07
|
|
|
Where's the biekwiki gone? I'm considering getting a motorcycle and wanted to read all the guides, but I'm getting 404'd.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 03:34
|
|
|
I've been looking for a Hayabusa shock to upgrade my SV, and motorcycleparts2u.com has them cheap. I haven't been able to find any indication that they're a scam via google. Has anyone ordered from them?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 04:07
|
|
|
So I was adjusting my carbs yesterday, trying to lean them out a bit as I seem to be getting bogged down when I'm cruising between 4.5 and 6k on the tach. I ran out of gas and switched over to my reserve. I noticed that although it was still present, the bogging became less severe when I switched to reserve. Does this mean I probably need to adjust my fuel mixture screws AND rebuild my petcock?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 19:31
|
|
|
You probably need to clean both the petcock and the carb, and I would bet you want to go richer to fix that bog, not leaner. Bikes rarely wind up running rich unless they've been improperly jetted somewhere along the line, but there are about a million things that will make them run lean.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 19:36
|
|
|
Thesoro posted:Where's the biekwiki gone? I'm considering getting a motorcycle and wanted to read all the guides, but I'm getting 404'd. Are you a new rider? If so, just browse your local Craigslist for something cheap in the style that you prefer, and post them up in the buying a bike thread. That's what I did anyway.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 19:46
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:You probably need to clean both the petcock and the carb, and I would bet you want to go richer to fix that bog, not leaner. Bikes rarely wind up running rich unless they've been improperly jetted somewhere along the line, but there are about a million things that will make them run lean. Well I did rejet it with a FactoryPro Stage 1 kit. Should I go back and do something with my fuel height / float level? Right now I have the fuel level at about 6mm below the demarcation line on the carb housing with the mixture screws set at 2.5 turns out. If you were to try to get rid of the bogging that I'm getting at acceleration and cruising without WOT, what would you do?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 19:47
|
|
|
ari.gato posted:So I was adjusting my carbs yesterday, trying to lean them out a bit as I seem to be getting bogged down when I'm cruising between 4.5 and 6k on the tach. I ran out of gas and switched over to my reserve. I noticed that although it was still present, the bogging became less severe when I switched to reserve. Does this mean I probably need to adjust my fuel mixture screws AND rebuild my petcock? According to Factory Pro, midrange power is affected most by needle clip position. Upper range power would be main jet (although the mains affect pretty much everything) and fuel mixture screws affect the idle and off-idle performance. So I'd start by adjusting your need clip.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 20:20
|
|
|
ari.gato posted:Well I did rejet it with a FactoryPro Stage 1 kit. Should I go back and do something with my fuel height / float level? Right now I have the fuel level at about 6mm below the demarcation line on the carb housing with the mixture screws set at 2.5 turns out. If you were to try to get rid of the bogging that I'm getting at acceleration and cruising without WOT, what would you do? If you put the choke on a bit, does it make the bogging better, or worse?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 21:08
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:According to Factory Pro, midrange power is affected most by needle clip position. Upper range power would be main jet (although the mains affect pretty much everything) and fuel mixture screws affect the idle and off-idle performance. So I'd start by adjusting your need clip. True, but that's only at WOT. When I have WOT, I don't really get bogging, just a quick blip when I pass 5.5k and then smooth again. I think my needle clips are in the same place. Phat_Albert posted:If you put the choke on a bit, does it make the bogging better, or worse? My bike (xj600) doesn't actually have a choke. It has a bar where you can open up the butterflies on the carbs to allow more air in. I haven't been able to test it at speed because you literally have to hold it open. There's another guy on a seca2 forums that has almost the identical engine setup as I do, and I've matched my bike to his settings. He's also roughly the same elevation above sea level that I am. This leads me to conclude that it is most likely my fuel mixture settings, my petcock, or my float levels. I adjusted the float levels and measured them while I had my bike up on the rear stand. Maybe that screwed up my measurements and where I think I'm 6mm below the line, I might be more so?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2010 21:44
|
|
|
So I recently bought an FZ6 and I gotta say wow, compared to the KLR I was riding before, this thing is crazy. When you pull the brakes, it actually stops! My question is, when turning at slow speeds, the handlebars turn themselves, and cant be turned back until you straighten up. Is this normal? It feels weird because I dont remember the KLR doing anything like this.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 04:26
|
|
|
So, I had my first experience with a dropped bike, except it was toppled by the wind instead of any other shenanigans. Sort of frustrating but eh, what can you do. It was heavier to pick up than I expected, but I got the job done It turns out that one of the weights on the end of the handlebars broke off, assembly 11 in this diagram http://www.bikebandit.com/1999-suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ex-handlebar/o/m6059sch242759 Half of screw 12 is still stuck inside the handlebars, while the other half is holding together the rest of the weight. Does anyone know if I can just walk into a Suzuki dealership and get a single screw? Also, what would be the best way to remove the screw from the handlebars, dremel a slot in it and use a screwdriver? I rode the bike home without noticing any quirks, but is there something I should check afterwards? Also, I need to get in on this Danish goon AI craziness, where do you guys go riding?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 05:17
|
|
|
Clank posted:So I recently bought an FZ6 and I gotta say wow, compared to the KLR I was riding before, this thing is crazy. When you pull the brakes, it actually stops! When you lean over far enough at a slow enough speed the bike will sort of fall into the turn, which is normal. You CAN pull the bars back straight, but......off the top of my head, I'm guessing that would lean you over further and probably put you onto the pavement. Either way, its normal, it may be more pronounced on the FZ6 because of the lower CG and smaller rake angle. Your KLR did it too, maybe just not as much.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 05:40
|
|
|
Icept posted:Does anyone know if I can just walk into a Suzuki dealership and get a single screw? Also, what would be the best way to remove the screw from the handlebars, dremel a slot in it and use a screwdriver? A: Probably not, unless your bike dealers are significantly better than mine. Here even the well-stocked places don't carry more than the stuff necessary to do basic maintenance, and everything bike-specific seems to need to be ordered in. Also you'd probably see a thousand-percent markup on it. If you've got a fastener supply shop near you, get the bolt from the other side of the bars and tell them you want its clone. B: If there's enough bolt material sticking out above the tapped hole, throw some pliers or vice grips on it and turn it out manually. If there isn't, drill a hole in the center of the bolt and try a bolt extractor on it. That may not work, and if it doesn't, you'll have to drill the bolt out. Corollary: bars are cheap - if you have to replace 'em it's not the end of the world.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 06:47
|
|
|
I bought a used Vulcan 500 off of Craigslist a week ago. Riding it has been awesome, but every so often when I come to a complete stop, the engine just starts revving and won't stop until I let go of the clutch to start moving again. It's feels like I'm idling with the choke on. It doesn't do this all the time. I would say it happens most often when I am riding in the city and have to go from 45 MPH (4th or 5th gear) down to 1st in a relatively short time frame to come to a stop at a stoplight. Is this indicative of any issues with the bike? Any ideas what could be causing this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 15:51
|
|
|
First thought: your throttle cable is binding on something. Maybe because you close the throttle quickly when coming to a stop quickly? Spray some lube down there. there's two cables that go under the tank and come out in between the carbs behind the engine. You need to take the box on the right handlebar apart to get to the ends of the cables and that's a bit of a bitch. Pay attention to how it goes together and be gentle. Don't force it when you put it back together.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 16:48
|
|
|
Clank posted:So I recently bought an FZ6 and I gotta say wow, compared to the KLR I was riding before, this thing is crazy. When you pull the brakes, it actually stops! I rode a cruiser that did this. It was an overtightened head bearing. The bars should not be hard to push whichever way you want regardless of what the bike is doing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 19:48
|
|
|
FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I rode a cruiser that did this. It was an overtightened head bearing. The bars should not be hard to push whichever way you want regardless of what the bike is doing. Is there anyway I can check?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2010 23:09
|
|
|
What are my options for a garage door opener remote for my scooter? I live at an apartment complex and they have given me a remote that sits in my car.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2010 17:46
|
|
|
Are you able to learn a new remote to the openner machine?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2010 18:02
|
|
|
TLG James posted:What are my options for a garage door opener remote for my scooter? I live at an apartment complex and they have given me a remote that sits in my car. I just keep the remote in my pocket and squeeze it when I get close. Is yours one of those proximity things? They also make remotes that hook into your wiring and when you flash your brights it sends the signal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2010 18:12
|
|
|
Clank posted:Is there anyway I can check? It's a tricky thing to get right. The bars and forks shouldn't have any significant resistance to turning if you use a very light touch of a finger on one of the grips to turn them (or the bearings are too tight), but they shouldn't just flop over to one side or the other on their own, either (or they're too loose).
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2010 22:04
|
|
|
I just keep it on my keychain, and take it off when it rains.Doctor Zero posted:They also make remotes that hook into your wiring and when you flash your brights it sends the signal. Got a link for these?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2010 00:20
|
|
|
TLG James posted:What are my options for a garage door opener remote for my scooter? I live at an apartment complex and they have given me a remote that sits in my car. You can also hook it up to your horn. Makes for a very tidy installation and quite reliable door opening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C-Bxifv2Pk
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2010 00:47
|
|
|
Clank posted:So I recently bought an FZ6 and I gotta say wow, compared to the KLR I was riding before, this thing is crazy. When you pull the brakes, it actually stops! That sounds odd and unlike either of the FZ6s I've ridden. Mine is super smooth and it feels like it "turns itself", but it doesn't. I'm kind of confused about what you mean by slow speed turning though, faster than parking lot? Parking lot speeds never really mean any lean for me so I was just assuming you meant like >10mph lean. Edit: Actually, thinking back I remember riding a Honda 999 when I was looking for a bike that acted like that. I just chalked it up to the kind of bike but maybe it was just messed up. Do you have to fight it thru turns? Your FZ6 shouldn't be like that at all, mine is the smoothest bike I've ridden as far as ease of ride goes (aside from some other 500-600 standards, XJ600, GS500 and the like). nsaP fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 10, 2010 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2010 19:24
|
|
|
.
FieryMatrix fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Oct 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2010 20:18
|
|
|
Jabs posted:Get the front of the bike off the ground an inch or so. Tried this, they turn fine. Neckbeard v. 2.0 posted:That sounds odd and unlike either of the FZ6s I've ridden. Mine is super smooth and it feels like it "turns itself", but it doesn't. I'm kind of confused about what you mean by slow speed turning though, faster than parking lot? Parking lot speeds never really mean any lean for me so I was just assuming you meant like >10mph lean. I guess Im just not used to it and never noticed it before on the KLR. I don't have to fight it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2010 20:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 06:22 |
|
|
What is your front tire pressure? Do you have a significantly worn or squared off front tire?
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2010 18:32
|
|
