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The only problem is if I just skip a few gears my rear engine mount will make the entire car rattle your teeth out. Anything under 2k rpm under acceleration and deceleration will cause it to vibrate a lot.
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Oct 12, 2010 03:35
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Your synchros will hate you for that, so don't make a long term habit out of it.
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Oct 12, 2010 03:37
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CharlesM posted:Anybody ever get a P0455 code (large EVAP leak)? I'll take it into the dealer, as I still have a warranty and all, but I'm just curious. There is an updated fuel cap that seals tighter, no biggy.
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Oct 12, 2010 06:07
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That's cool, I've also read about the purge solenoid getting stuck or something. However, I pulled the codes again tonight and there is also P0171 bank 1 too lean.
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Oct 12, 2010 09:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:Your synchros will hate you for that, so don't make a long term habit out of it. My synchros? I'm not forcing it into gear. I lack the strength in my left arm reaaching across my body to really exert any force. Do they suffer from a bit of lugging or something?
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Oct 12, 2010 13:16
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Kynetx posted:My synchros? I'm not forcing it into gear. I lack the strength in my left arm reaaching across my body to really exert any force. Do they suffer from a bit of lugging or something? They have to make up a greater difference in input shaft speed when you skip.
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Oct 12, 2010 13:29
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SynMoo posted:They have to make up a greater difference in input shaft speed when you skip. This. I used to romp on it in first and second in my Miata and then go straight to fifth since I'd already be at a cruise speed; after a couple of years the fifth gear synchro stopped letting me do this, so I can only get into fifth if I go through third or fourth beforehand, or if I wait a long time for the input shaft to slow down.
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Oct 12, 2010 17:42
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I understand you're injured, and I definitely understand the appeal in skipping gears during every day driving with such a close ratio box, but do yourself a favor and wait for the revs to drop a good bit when you're skipping. You want to rev match as much as possible when skipping to minimize wear. It's pretty easy to do with the A/C on. The revs fall so fast, it's difficult to drive naturally and smoothly without skipping a gear.
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Oct 12, 2010 17:53
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So the release date for that Magnaflow intake for the Gen2's got pushed back if anyone else was interested in that.CharlesM posted:The oil filter wrench is not a Mazda special tool FYI, you can get one at Pep Boys, you just have to look up the size and spline count online. Ah well. Either way buying a pack of filters is still a decent deal. Soon as I get this exchange sorted out I'll have the spin-on conversion kit up for sale. Excited that I've found a few good deals so... might be pulling out my MS CAI and replacing it with a Cobb SRI, and getting an AP too!  probably gotta get tires next though; have had my Hankook Ventus V12's for 14 months or so now.
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Oct 12, 2010 22:47
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Well yeah... getting something for free is nice. 
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Oct 12, 2010 22:49
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Is the Cobb unit considerably better than the MS CAI?
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Oct 12, 2010 22:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is the Cobb unit considerably better than the MS CAI? No difference in performance in my opinion. To me, Intakes and exhausts boil down to personal preference. Obviously it would really matter if you live in an area where you could hydrolock your car. The Cobb one is around $50-75 cheaper (depending on the deal) and I'm trying to raise some extra cash to help offset the cost of replacing a lost iPod. Bonus that I get to have something different too. e: charlesm, has that purge solenoid valve been replaced under TSB? I'd take the car to the dealer ASAP if you're under warranty. I actually threw more CEL's for several weeks after that, and even ended up having to replace my high pressure fuel pump (also because of a TSB). air- fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 23:00
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No it hasn't. I have the TSB printed out. The dealer hasn't called me back yet. Fortunately I don't have a high-pressure pump on mine, I have the regular model.
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Oct 12, 2010 23:34
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I threw that CEL code for my purge valve. Also whatever registers the gas gauge died too and they had to replace that. Went over a bump one day and the gas gauge just started dropping like a stone. Thought I had gouged the fuel tank so I pulled over as fast as I could.
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Oct 13, 2010 01:28
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Bovine Delight posted:I threw that CEL code for my purge valve. Also whatever registers the gas gauge died too and they had to replace that. My instinct in that situation would be to drive as far as I could to a safe area/shop and save myself the tow if possible.
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Oct 13, 2010 01:30
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SynMoo posted:My instinct in that situation would be to drive as far as I could to a safe area/shop and save myself the tow if possible. Eh, I'm a claims adjuster, I'll just get one of the local guys to tow it for free if I ever need to. You should see the ridiculous rates I get at body shop. 
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Oct 13, 2010 01:34
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SynMoo posted:They have to make up a greater difference in input shaft speed when you skip. Ah... very good point. I'll just make a habit of letting the revs drop to near-idle before I shift. Thanks for pointing that out. I was just blinded by THA TORKS.
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Oct 13, 2010 03:39
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Bovine Delight posted:You should see the ridiculous rates I get at body shop. Man that's awesome. My bumpers could use repainting 
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Oct 13, 2010 03:42
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 My MS3's horn is going through puberty or something, I swear it went up by like half an octave.
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Oct 13, 2010 04:27
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CharlesM posted:That's cool, I've also read about the purge solenoid getting stuck or something. However, I pulled the codes again tonight and there is also P0171 bank 1 too lean. The regular 3's are notorious for purge valves too, especially with B1S1 lean. Either way, no worries.
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Oct 13, 2010 04:53
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OK, cool. I also discovered it's very hard to start after filling up! On the topic of synchro wear when skipping gears, what happens with GM cars with skip-shift?
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Oct 13, 2010 04:55
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CharlesM posted:OK, cool. I also discovered it's very hard to start after filling up! I'm suddenly curious about this too. Do they still have that "feature"?
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Oct 13, 2010 17:17
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They still do, but I think the rev range it works in is such that you're still not going to see a huge difference in RPMs between first and fourth. It's been a long time since I looked at it closely but I think it shuts off somewhere around 3000-3500 RPM. Either that or they consider synchros cheaper than a gas guzzler tax. Besides, I'd wager that half of the skip-shift cars out there (maybe more) have it disabled.
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Oct 13, 2010 17:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I've really wanted to swap to a real horn. The stock horn sounds so wimpy. Maybe next time I go in for some maintenance I'll see if they can quote me to swap it out.
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Oct 14, 2010 01:48
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I'm thinking about picking up a used MS3 as my "practical" daily driver...anything I should be looking out for?
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Oct 14, 2010 02:05
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Bovine Delight posted:I've really wanted to swap to a real horn. The stock horn sounds so wimpy. Maybe next time I go in for some maintenance I'll see if they can quote me to swap it out. One of the first things I did was replace that embarrassing POS with something a bit ballsier. A lot of people like the Supertones, but after comparing them I went with the dual trumpet model. I find the Supertones to be a bit nasal and well.... loving European. The dual trumpets are beefier sounding in my opinion. They're plenty loud. When I'm feeling like a dick I'll wait to arm my factory alarm until someone is walking by and see if they flinch. Yeah, awesome horns. The swap is a bitch since you really need to pull the driver's side wheel and peel off the shield but worth it in the end.
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Oct 14, 2010 03:18
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Wolo Bad Boy on my MS3. Got some basic hardware from Home Depot and put it on the stock mount. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFIN0m0t7YI ChiliMac posted:I'm thinking about picking up a used MS3 as my "practical" daily driver...anything I should be looking out for? Modifications. For the most part they're pretty solid, but try to avoid one that's been beat on. Don't get me wrong, they've all probably been driven hard, that's what they're made for, but there's a difference between that and beating on it.
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Oct 14, 2010 13:54
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Yeah, just look at the details and let them tell the story. One of the first MS3s I looked at had three different types of tires on it in two sizes, and even at night I could see that it was just covered in door dings. On top of it he wanted as much money as most of the GT trim cars on the market, for this banged up sport. (Coherent? Goddamn Swype  )
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Oct 14, 2010 |
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Oct 14, 2010 15:12
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Also, ask them straight up questions. Has it ever been modified? Why are you selling it? I know it's meant to be driven, but did you drive it hard a lot? Did you let it idle a bit after driving it hard? You can expect dishonest answers, but just seeing someone's reaction to the questions can give you the real answer.
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Oct 14, 2010 15:25
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Most of the sellers are dealers which obviously won't know those answers but for the few that are the original owners is it really worse if they "drove it hard" vs the random granny that bought it and never changed the oil? Re: modifications... I haven't done all the research just yet but are there any non-obvious tuner mods that I might find? (i.e. is there any way for me to maybe suss out if it had been driven hard before with evidence of common mods). P.S. I'm picking this car so I can work on my miata.
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Oct 15, 2010 03:24
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Obvious items: worn bolt heads under the hood, missing side moldings, debadged, tint. Also it will be very obvious if the exhaust has been removed (it's a pain in the rear end). The condition of the motor mounts could also give you an indication of how rough the car's been driven. Try and get maintenance records and if possible, definitely see if you can get documentation on what TSB's have been completed on the car, if any. All in all though, try and go for an 08.5 or an 09 if you can. And if you need to find TSB's, check this: http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/mazda3.html The most common ones I've heard of are: http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/01-022-08.html (probably the most common one right here) http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/Owner%20Letter%20R4607F_FINAL.pdf http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/01-043-07.html air- fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Oct 15, 2010 |
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Oct 15, 2010 16:58
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I wouldn't say a motor mount being replaced is a sign of it being driven hard, the stock rear mount is completely poo poo and warrants replacement if you want to stop missing 1st to 2nd under any sort of acceleration. Now if they tell you they replaced it because they broke the stock mount, that is another story... Anyways, I went to Mister Car Wash today and they had some mini-detail special for 30 bucks. I figured what the hell and sprung for it - car looks awesome. They've managed to collect almost all of the dog hair in hatch, shampooed and cleaned the entire interior, washed the car and did their version of waxing (which is dumping a poo poo load of wax on the car as it goes through the wash). Obligatory shot below.
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Oct 15, 2010 18:23
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If I've got a CAI and a RMM, whats the next investment? I'm thinking a turbo timer for here in Texas would be the best bet. Any suggestions?
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Oct 15, 2010 18:29
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The turbo is watercooled, you don't need a timer for it. Just idle for a little bit before you shut it down.
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Oct 15, 2010 19:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:The turbo is watercooled, you don't need a timer for it. Just idle for a little bit before you shut it down. Well poo poo. Maybe it's time for a Dashhawk.
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Oct 15, 2010 21:46
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Bovine Delight posted:Pretty charp, mang.
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Oct 16, 2010 02:20
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What is producing the horrible whining noise at very low speeds with the wheel locked right or left? Power steering pump? I curbed my MS3 a few months ago and it will never, ever be the same Replaced some of the suspension bits and a wheel but I know in my heart the car is irrevocably hosed, the tires will never wear evenly, etc. Good thing its a lease!
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Oct 16, 2010 18:58
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Either the power steering pump or your limited slip. Some noise from either at full lock is normal, AFAIK.
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Oct 16, 2010 19:04
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Probably the LSD, I'd almost guarantee it. If it really bugs you, you can change out the fluid and/or add some friction modifier. If it's a lease I'd say to hell with it.
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Oct 16, 2010 19:15
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Bovine Delight posted:If I've got a CAI and a RMM, whats the next investment? I'm thinking a turbo timer for here in Texas would be the best bet. Any suggestions? Short shifter, bushings, or a shifter weight. Could do turbo inlet pipe too. And DH isn't necessary to have for those mods (not that there's anything wrong about getting one). All the deals I'd previously mentioned are gone, so I might just keep putting money aside for the next set of tires. Think I've got til November or early December.
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Oct 17, 2010 08:25
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