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2ndclasscitizen posted:I just keep it on my keychain, and take it off when it rains. This is the one I've seen. Not sure if there are better or cheaper ones. http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/product/102102/Flash2Pass-System-for-Motorcycle.html
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Oct 11, 2010 19:36
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Doctor Zero posted:This is the one I've seen. Not sure if there are better or cheaper ones. You can buy this, then take it apart and wire it up to your F2P button. Just open your current one, count the prongs on the DIP switch and buy a similar mini one. Mine is 10 DIP for example.
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Oct 11, 2010 21:24
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So I ruined my nice long weekend by over-torquing the head cover bolt, as seen here: so obviously I need to order a replacement. Is extracting the remaining thread part from the head something that could be done with a bog-standard bolt removal kit, or should I take it to a shop? Obviously I'd rather do it myself, both for the cost savings and the hands-on learning, but if it's going to be too gnarly to do at home, I'll take it in.
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Oct 11, 2010 22:07
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Chris Knight posted:So I ruined my nice long weekend by over-torquing the head cover bolt, as seen here: I've had really lovely experiences removing broken screws. It's a skill worth having, but you'll want to kill yourself the first few times you do it. Also, buy good tools, i've had screw removal kits breaking inside the screw i was trying to remove and THAT was a poo poo-fest i can't even start explaining...
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Oct 12, 2010 00:03
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Clank posted:I guess Im just not used to it and never noticed it before on the KLR. I don't have to fight it. What you're feeling is quite normal. The KLR has off-road fork/triple geometry, with wider bars giving much more leverage. I notice the same feeling every time I go from my KTM to any kind of road-oriented frame. It passes.
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Oct 12, 2010 00:37
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I have a `85 Suzuki GS550ES, and I'm looking for a less restrictive Exhaust system then the one I have on it right one(it says pro sport on it, and thats about all I i know other than it is a single pipe exhaust for a 4 cyl motor) and I want to stick with the single pipe look instead of the factory duals. Anyone have any suggestions on where I can look? Edit: I should elaborate on why I want a less restrictive exhaust. This bike has some mods done too it, it has K&N cone style intakes, dynajet stage 3 kits in the Carbs and polish job(exhaust manifold maybe? i'm kind of new to bikes and i'm not sure) and all of this was done by previous owners. Whats happening is that around 6K rpms (or lower if i'm going up a hill) it feels like the carbs are sticking, it will back fire a few times and then power through it. But every now and then I will lose all power, first time this happened I was on the highway going about 60 in 6th and I was going to pass someone and I gave it some more throttle and the bike didn't go any faster and even started slowing, so I downshifted and suddenly I had absolutely no power and my engine quit. I did what my friend I bought the bike from reccomended and turned the petcok to prime for a 10 seconds or so, turn it back and restart the bike. It got me home after that. Now what he said is happening is that the exhaust is building up so much back pressure that its shooting the exhaust back through the engine and tries using one of the carberautors as an exhaust which kills the bike. Flikken fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 01:39
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I have an issue with my xv750: I went to change the oil, and after draining the old stuff I attempted to get the filter cover off... and I not only stripped the bolt, but the wrench as well! (these are allen bolts). How the hell do I get that bolt out? I went ahead and filled it up with fresh oil for the time being but I really need to replace that filter! When I bought it, the PO mentioned that he had it in the shop and "they did an oil change but didn't replace the filter." MYSTERY SOLVED! (this bike also came from the PO with a stripped master cylinder screw and a stripped clutch adjust - what's up with this malleable 80s metal?) wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 01:45
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cloudstrife2993 posted:I have an issue with my xv750:
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Oct 12, 2010 01:57
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Flikken posted:I have a `85 Suzuki GS550ES, and I'm looking for a less restrictive Exhaust system then the one I have on it right one(it says pro sport on it, and thats about all I i know other than it is a single pipe exhaust for a 4 cyl motor) and I want to stick with the single pipe look instead of the factory duals. Anyone have any suggestions on where I can look? Why do you want a less restrictive exhaust? What other parts of the engine are you planning on upgraded to take advantage of that less restrictive exhaust? Or do you just want it loud? Because a sawzall does wonders for de-restricting exhausts.
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Oct 12, 2010 01:58
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echomadman posted:try hammering in a torx head bit thats slightly larger than the rounded out holes and then use an impact driver on that, i've had good luck with that in the past, you really need a good impact driver for working on old bikes This is a good idea, thanks. Looks like a trip to harbor freight is in my near future!
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Oct 12, 2010 02:02
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Z3n posted:Why do you want a less restrictive exhaust? What other parts of the engine are you planning on upgraded to take advantage of that less restrictive exhaust? Or do you just want it loud? Because a sawzall does wonders for de-restricting exhausts. I edited my post with an explanation.
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Oct 12, 2010 02:03
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How are 05 V-Strom 650's as far as high mileage reliability? My uncle told me he would sell me his for $3000, but it has 50,000 KM on it, or about 30,000 miles. I'm contemplating selling my GSXR and DR650 for the wee-strom next spring.. I'd have over a grand left over, too.
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Oct 12, 2010 03:37
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Flikken posted:Edit: I should elaborate on why I want a less restrictive exhaust. This bike has some mods done too it, it has K&N cone style intakes, dynajet stage 3 kits in the Carbs and polish job(exhaust manifold maybe? i'm kind of new to bikes and i'm not sure) and all of this was done by previous owners. Whats happening is that around 6K rpms (or lower if i'm going up a hill) it feels like the carbs are sticking, it will back fire a few times and then power through it. But every now and then I will lose all power, first time this happened I was on the highway going about 60 in 6th and I was going to pass someone and I gave it some more throttle and the bike didn't go any faster and even started slowing, so I downshifted and suddenly I had absolutely no power and my engine quit. I did what my friend I bought the bike from reccomended and turned the petcok to prime for a 10 seconds or so, turn it back and restart the bike. It got me home after that. Now what he said is happening is that the exhaust is building up so much back pressure that its shooting the exhaust back through the engine and tries using one of the carberautors as an exhaust which kills the bike. The solution to this is to toss that thing on a dyno and get it tuned properly. I don't think those bikes respond well to removing the airbox, and the exhaust you've got on there is probably about as non-restrictive as it gets already unless it's got a quiet core in it. Try running the bike on prime all the time and see if that fixes the issue. You could have a failed vacuum petcock. And your friend's supposition doesn't even make sense. It's not the exhaust that's your problem, it's your fueling. Fix the fueling and your issues will go away. I have a feeling that to get the bike to run right you're going to need to put the airbox back on, IIRC, those airboxes are essential to have actual midranging. Paging Nero on this one though. MrZig posted:How are 05 V-Strom 650's as far as high mileage reliability? My uncle told me he would sell me his for $3000, but it has 50,000 KM on it, or about 30,000 miles. It's a milder SV650 engine (I think they use milder cams but I'm not sure), dead loving reliable. It'll go forever as long as it's been properly maintained.
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Oct 12, 2010 04:17
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Z3n posted:The solution to this is to toss that thing on a dyno and get it tuned properly. I don't think those bikes respond well to removing the airbox, and the exhaust you've got on there is probably about as non-restrictive as it gets already unless it's got a quiet core in it. The one time I put the bike on prime, I left it on for about a minute and then it started leaking gas right out of the bike(not sure where the leak was coming from, it was dark and I was on the side of a interstate) and at least 2 baffles have been removed from this exhaust(this is what my buddy tells me) I guess its a bad sign when I trust strangers advice on an internet forum over a buddy of over 15 years, but your diagnosis makes more sense to me.
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Oct 12, 2010 05:00
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Your carbs need to be rebuilt. They're flowing gas because the float valves can't hold. You'll need to replace the float valves at least and perhaps the seats as well, depending on how bad they are. Unfortunately when you get an engine that's been that heavily modified, you end up having to deal with some issues if the PO didn't know what they were doing and that is very often the case. 
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Oct 12, 2010 05:09
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Z3n posted:Your carbs need to be rebuilt. They're flowing gas because the float valves can't hold. You'll need to replace the float valves at least and perhaps the seats as well, depending on how bad they are. Unfortunately when you get an engine that's been that heavily modified, you end up having to deal with some issues if the PO didn't know what they were doing and that is very often the case. ...and then get the fuelling properly set up on a dyno! 
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Oct 12, 2010 10:09
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Flikken posted:I have a `85 Suzuki GS550ES, and I'm looking for a less restrictive Exhaust system then the one I have on it right one(it says pro sport on it, and thats about all I i know other than it is a single pipe exhaust for a 4 cyl motor) and I want to stick with the single pipe look instead of the factory duals. Anyone have any suggestions on where I can look? This has to be said again. Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. At all. Lets cover what we know. First, your petcock is failing. Buy a new one. They're $50. Second, the float valves in your carb are shot. Buy new ones, needles and seats. That'll be $20. The filters available for your bike were not cones, but were long oval tubes. If they are actually K&N, clean them, and lightly oil them. You'll notice your bike doesn't have four separate carbs, but instead has two two barrel carbs. Are you SURE the bike has the K&N parts installed? If it does, you'll find brass press in restrictors in the air jet holes on the front of the carb, you'll find plastic weights on top of the diaphragms, and you'll find adjustable needles in the carb. I kinda doubt you have that kit installed. You do not want a less restrictive exhaust. Unless you don't like torque... Before we go to far into this. YOu need to actually find out what's been done, and then set things right. If you're chasing settings, well you'll be at it until the cows come home. First things first, clean the air filters. Check to see what jets are in the carbs. Check to see what needles are in the carbs. And get a picture of the exhaust so we can confirm it's heritage. "Stock" with just slightly larger mains, a 1983 GS550ES will do 122mph. What more are you looking for? :-) If your'e new to motorcycles, you want a bike with a smooth torque curve, not a "fast feeling" one.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:00
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Nerobro posted:This has to be said again. Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. At all.  ). I am not out for a superfast bike or anything but I want to leave the upgrades it already has on it in place and make it run right. I really like this bike it is fun as hell to ride, looks and sounds good and is quick enough for my tastes.I have ~1500 miles of riding time in so I know I am still a novice and I am not out to do anything stupid E: I will take and post pics when I get home from work today. Flikken fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 16:28
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Nerobro posted:The filters available for your bike were not cones, but were long oval tubes. If they are actually K&N, clean them, and lightly oil them. I think what convinced to avoid pods was the inherent lack of physical support for the back of the carbs. A rack of four or even two is some pretty substantial weight to be flopping around and held on by a few clamps. Some people make provisions for this, but most don't. Not hard to imagine it creating all sorts of downstream problems.
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Oct 12, 2010 19:25
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The clutch on my 93 DR650 is worn out. On a 300 KM trip this weekend, it started slipping bad when going WOT on the highway. It made passing.. Interesting. (scary) I'm going to replace the plates, fibers and springs next year, since the riding season is almost done, but I've got a question.. When I pull my clutch lever in while idling, I can hear a horrible rattling noise coming from my clutch cover that I never heard before. It's almost like a baby Ducati, but only when the clutch lever is pulled. Could be a bad bearing? Is this normal for a worn clutch?
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Oct 12, 2010 20:14
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When you pull the clutch, check the clutch basket for axial play. Edit: but some rattle with the clutch in is normal, you're hearing the clutch plates and springs rattle. Z3n fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 20:36
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Primo Itch posted:I've had really lovely experiences removing broken screws. It's a skill worth having, but you'll want to kill yourself the first few times you do it. Also, buy good tools, i've had screw removal kits breaking inside the screw i was trying to remove and THAT was a poo poo-fest i can't even start explaining...
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Oct 12, 2010 23:57
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I'm starting the process of restoring an '81 KZ440 that came into my possession. It's been badly stored, and about half the parts I'm going to have to completely replace. My question is about engine restoration; I can handle most everything else myself, but an engine (beyond carbs) is a little out of my league. I plan on calling around to some (SoCal) bike mechanics to see what it would take to just pay someone to restore the engine. Does anybody have any experience with this that could offer some insight?
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Oct 13, 2010 04:12
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The first question I have is, do you know it needs to be restored, or are you guessing? Or do you mean cosmetically restored? Unless that engine sat outside with no sparkplugs for the last 20 years, it'll probably run.
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Oct 13, 2010 15:28
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Marv Hushman posted:I think what convinced to avoid pods was the inherent lack of physical support for the back of the carbs. A rack of four or even two is some pretty substantial weight to be flopping around and held on by a few clamps. Some people make provisions for this, but most don't. Not hard to imagine it creating all sorts of downstream problems. The boots on the 83-86 GS550 are exceptionally stiff. generally speaking, you're right. Skreemer's bike was setup exactly like this guy describes his bike, and skreemers bike ran really well.
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Oct 13, 2010 16:10
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It's symptomatic for a lot of old UJMs. Someone in the late 90s struggled with poorly maintained carbs and thought "let's give this old girl a tune up and see what she can do  " Said tuneup consists of replacing airbox with pods and swapping the (probably rusty) OEM exhaust for some cheap aftermarket trombone "to mak'er breathe better ".In the end the carbs are just as poorly maintained, only now the rest of the aspiration system is out of whack as well. Throw tarp over, forget, sell on craigslist 10 years later.
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Oct 13, 2010 16:18
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FieryMatrix fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 13, 2010 18:37
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FieryMatrix posted:Bump for any help. Whoops, meant to reply to that, must have gotten lost in the shuffle. Do you hvae any pictures of what happened with the mirror mount? You could just need a replacement mount, could need a new fairing stay. The 07 has loads of parts on ebay though, so that should be pretty cheap. Where is the brake line leaking from? Again, pictures would help here. The bolts might have been too loose, they may have gotten bent/tweaked in the accident, or the line could have gotten trashed if it caught up on something.
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Oct 13, 2010 18:41
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Phat_Albert posted:The first question I have is, do you know it needs to be restored, or are you guessing? Or do you mean cosmetically restored? Mechanical restoration, not cosmetic (surface corrosion builds character.) I'm currently guessing as to its working state, as the previous owner had stored it outside with no protection for a good long time (seat foam has hardened, tires are cracked and flat, bird's nest between tailpipe and frame, etc.) The spark plugs are in place, but my big  is that the engine will still be seized.My plan is to put some oil in it, grab a new battery and see if it will even move. Getting fuel to it will be a little tricky, as the tank is being scrubbed clean of the sludge and rust and the petcock flat out needs replacing. I've heard of jury-rigging a temporary fueltank when testing engines, so I may try that with a little more checking. While bike repairs aren't anything new to me, the engine has me feeling a little overwhelmed as I don't have any experience there besides changing sparkplugs, oil, and rebuilding a carburetor (and the carb was under the eye of somebody who knew what they were doing.)
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Oct 13, 2010 20:34
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First thing, and safest thing, to try is take the timing cover off (should be on the right hand side) and try spinning the engine carefully by hand.
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Oct 13, 2010 20:54
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Hopefully someone can respond to this before the posting is removed, but my brother just purchased this little guy: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/2001874343.html (for $200, not $550) and I was wondering what you guys could tell me about typical engine problems these type of bikes experience? The seller has never had the bike running and all I know is that it is a dual overhead cam with two CV carbs. Any tips are appreciated as I think this will become my first bike . edit: It is a 1976 Yamaha XS500C in case the posting is gone when you try take a look. Jack Black fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 22:51
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I've determined I need to lower the fuel level on my carbs and rebuild the petcock. The petcock I'm okay with, but I have a question regarding the fuel level. SO, my carbs are current set to 6mm below the fuel level line on my carbs. I need to have less fuel in the float bowls. Do I change the level from 6mm below the fuel level line to 5mm below, or 7mm below if I wanted to have less fuel in the bowls? Thanks.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:48
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FieryMatrix fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2010 01:25
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Ola posted:First thing, and safest thing, to try is take the timing cover off (should be on the right hand side) and try spinning the engine carefully by hand. I'll give this a try this weekend and see how it pans out. After doing some reading I've seen that some penetrating oil shot through the spark plug holes can help if it's only mildly stuck, as well as a long lever. Any advice on things I should be wary of when testing this?
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Oct 14, 2010 03:40
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FieryMatrix posted:Where the mirror mount sheared off fairing stay: Replace the fairing stay, they're too cheap on ebay to bother with welding up. The brakes, well, it looks like your brake line got snagged on something, and it bent the banjo bolts. To start with, I'd unscrew the front line at top and bottom and see if there's any visible damage to the caliper or the master cylinder, and if the banjo bolts bent or if it pulled some threads out of the caliper/MC. From there we can determine the best course of action. The line is definitely toast, it's just a matter of if it got the caliper and the MC on it's way out.
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Oct 14, 2010 04:34
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Tadhg posted:I'll give this a try this weekend and see how it pans out. After doing some reading I've seen that some penetrating oil shot through the spark plug holes can help if it's only mildly stuck, as well as a long lever. pour some diesel into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and let it sit for a day then try to turn over the engine with a ratchet and socket like ola suggested or a quick tap of the starter button (leave the plugs out)
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Oct 14, 2010 20:24
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FieryMatrix fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2010 02:33
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I'd use the bar one over the clicker type for the higher torque stuff. For lower torque stuff, I'd drop 50-100$ on a decent proto one on ebay, or check in the tool thread in AI to see if there's been any discussion about cheap torque wrenches. I'd also compare any wrenches I had at home to the ones I had at work. Torque a bolt to somewhere in the midrange and see how early or late your new one clicks at. As you probably know, you want to work in the middle range of the torque wrench, where it's most accurate. So those are basically both good for the same range...20-80 foot pounds. You should see if you can find one that's 5-25 or so for the other stuff.
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Oct 15, 2010 02:40
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So my brother just bought a used bike from a dealership. He hasn't gotten it yet, but he wants to look over the manual. Problem is, he doesn't have it. I don't know if downloading service manuals would be considered  , but is there a collection online if that's not the case? He's picking up a Suzuki 2006 GSXR 750.
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Oct 15, 2010 03:06
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First thing I googled: http://bikerpunks.com/mediaviewer/2107/200607-suzuki-gsx-r-750-service-manual.html Consider grabbing a Haynes manual too, they're pretty good for 30ish dollars. http://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Manual-Suzuki-GSXR-2006-2009/dp/B003CDFGKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1287111389&sr=8-1
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Oct 15, 2010 03:57
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