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Does anyone want a Boss Frog test pipe for a 1.8l? It's in fine shape, but the seller said it was for a 1.6 so now I don't have anything there but air. $45 shipping anywhere in the states. It's in fine shape, just a little rusty at the ends but it'd work great.
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Oct 18, 2010 00:25
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Do you know if this will work with the Jackson Racing long tube headers? I think the cat in the car is stock. It looks like an OEM piece. No reason for me to keep the cat on the car since I'm so far from emissions legal now anyway.
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Oct 18, 2010 00:37
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If you can confirm it's the stock cat I don't see why not.
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Oct 18, 2010 00:43
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You're not going to see any power gain unless your cat is really clogged.
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Oct 18, 2010 00:46
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Cats are heavy, also one less thing to break.
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Oct 18, 2010 00:51
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Well whatever if someone wants it they can PM me.
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Oct 18, 2010 02:38
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FatCow posted:Do you know if this will work with the Jackson Racing long tube headers? I think the cat in the car is stock. It looks like an OEM piece. No reason for me to keep the cat on the car since I'm so far from emissions legal now anyway. You have the Racing Beat 4-2-1 header, brah.
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Oct 18, 2010 03:12
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destructo posted:You're not going to see any power gain unless your cat is really clogged. I notice a few horsepower gain when going with an open cat. But they're not that heavy 
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Oct 18, 2010 05:57
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Phone posted:You have the Racing Beat 4-2-1 header, brah. Stop telling me what I have on my car, because you're always wrong. It's a 4-1 to begin with.
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Oct 18, 2010 15:44
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aventari posted:I notice a few horsepower gain when going with an open cat. But they're not that heavy Butt dyno? Real dyno? Awesome you can find a few hundred watts out from somewhere around 115,000W. There's little evidence of cats actually costing power in terms of ultimate gasflow or backpressure at lower power levels on cars with decent exhaust designs (Miatas stock exhaust is quite good other than the manifold). The post-turbo velocity on a miata is quite high with a decent downpipe(NA with header is similar)and due to its logitudinal design tends to sail through low-restriction stuff like cats.
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Oct 18, 2010 17:31
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I resolved the issue by taking my car down without any exhaust and having the local sketchy muffler pipe weld in a tube for $30. At any rate my Greddy turbo kit seems to be done.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. That's not worth clicking on because it's a terrible picture. Install was pretty easy overall, had a few snags but that's to be expected. I'm happy with the power it's making, it's just enough to give the car some passing power. That's really all I wanted.
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Oct 19, 2010 01:20
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Possible issue: Lately when I've started driving the car I notice a weird noise something like a squeeking/squaking like a chicken getting strangled. I seem to notice it when the clutch is disengaged, though I guess that could just be because if it's not, I'm moving. There doesn't seem to be any issues driving-wise, it's just a weird noise (at least for now). Throwout bearing?
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Oct 20, 2010 14:48
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dreesemonkey posted:Possible issue: Lately when I've started driving the car I notice a weird noise something like a squeeking/squaking like a chicken getting strangled. I seem to notice it when the clutch is disengaged, though I guess that could just be because if it's not, I'm moving. There doesn't seem to be any issues driving-wise, it's just a weird noise (at least for now). Not a belt? My guess is the pilot bearing. Mine went around 80k or so and made a huge loving racket.
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Oct 20, 2010 23:16
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DreamOn13 posted:Not a belt? My guess is the pilot bearing. Mine went around 80k or so and made a huge loving racket.
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Oct 20, 2010 23:18
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Edit: sounds like throwout to me as well. Could be pilot though, you have to go in and change all the bearings anyway. PROTIP Make sure you don't rest your foot on the clutch once it's out and your driving along. Even light pressure will push the clutch arm and engage the bearing Baby Hitler posted:Butt dyno? Real dyno? Awesome you can find a few hundred watts out from somewhere around 115,000W. There's little evidence of cats actually costing power in terms of ultimate gasflow or backpressure at lower power levels on cars with decent exhaust designs (Miatas stock exhaust is quite good other than the manifold). The post-turbo velocity on a miata is quite high with a decent downpipe(NA with header is similar)and due to its logitudinal design tends to sail through low-restriction stuff like cats. On my 8v VW, I could easily tell I gained top-end power with a hollow cat. Considering I have to install and remove the cat every two years to smog it, after doing that 6 or 7 times I can say without a doubt it's not a placebo effect. aventari fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Oct 21, 2010 00:34
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Today I heard a squeak, constant and 'in rhythm' to the tire rotation, I think, and only above like 35 mph. It's coming from the left front wheel area. I'm 99% sure it's not the tire rubbing. Braking/clutching/turning do not affect it. Didn't get a chance to shut off the engine and see if it's there just coasting. Can only be heard with the top/windows up and radio off. It's not really too loud at all. It was also raining. Might just be the rain. Any ideas? I was under the impression that wheel bearing failure would sound different when turning.
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Oct 21, 2010 04:29
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Piano posted:I was under the impression that wheel bearing failure would sound different when turning. A worn bearing generally makes more noise when its on the opposite side of the turn as the car's weight shifts. The last time I had to do one on my Focus I caught it early and when I turned left the noise would disappear completely. Of course this doesn't apply if its already totally hosed and well beyond the "just starting to go" stage...but you can usually hear those over everything else.
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Oct 21, 2010 04:34
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Installed my new Hella E-codes yesterday with the "standard" 60/55W bulbs. Pro-tier as heck. The lighting pattern is a world of improvement; such better horizontal light distribution, and a nice sharp low-beam vertical cutoff. Now I need to go find some unlit backroads to light up at night with the high beams.
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Oct 21, 2010 17:46
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^ Feel free to put 100W bulbs on the stock harness. Does anybody sell a GOOD replacement seat for the NA/NB that: A)Looks stockish B)Increases lateral support C)Can be used with a proper harness as well as the stock belt D)Has a headrest high enough to keep your head from hitting your roll bar E)Costs reasonable? I know I'm asking the world here... but I want to retain stock functionality, increase safety, yet not look like I'm in a racecar in case I get pulled over.
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Oct 21, 2010 22:14
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destructo posted:That would be the throwout bearing, also known as a thrust bearing. No, I'm talking about the pilot bearing. Sits in the center of the flywheel, not the TOB that rides on the clutch fork. Mine was seized. Also I've never heard it called a thrust bearing when talking about car engines. http://www.miata.net/solo/99miatathrustbearingfailure.html ^that's what I think of. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Oct 21, 2010 22:18
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That's what I think of too. In fact 10 years or so ago I wiped out my crank thrust bearing on my VW by misadjusting my manual clutch cable. I adjusted it too tight and the constant pressure on the clutch and consequently, the side of the crank, destroyed the thrust bearing and the crank machined into the block the pressure plate moved so far it starting hitting the back of the block making horrible sounds. I was able to just replace the thrust bearing with a new 'saddle type' one despite the block machining.
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Oct 22, 2010 00:19
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I want to adjust my NC clutch to raise the disengagement point a little; how far can I go without damaging the bearings?
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Oct 22, 2010 02:59
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As long as there's play in the clutch fork and it's not constantly pushing. I'd probably set it where I wanted it and then get under and make sure the clutch fork was still a bit loose I want an LSD and this came up on craigslist http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/2010038348.html quote:Mazda Miata Torsen Differential (LSD) - $500 (Poway, CA) is this a good diff for my 99? Is that the going rate?
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Oct 22, 2010 03:38
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Since you have a 1.8L car, you should already have all of the bits outside of the pumpkin.
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Oct 22, 2010 03:47
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There's gonna be a miata in a top gear special for the upcoming season. Spoilering this for the spergy Jeremy drives an NB around Israel
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Oct 22, 2010 04:07
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What do you all do to prevent rust? I had one slightly rusty 91 that I drove for one winter and it became a very rusty 91. I've now switched to a completely rust free 91 and I'd like to keep it that way, while still being able to enjoy my snow tires. I'm in Indiana so "avoid salt" isn't an option.
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Oct 25, 2010 03:17
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I don't really deal with salt, but I thought that the general consensus is to just wash that poo poo off religiously and vigorously. If you keep on top of keeping salt off your car, it shouldn't be that much of an issue.
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Oct 25, 2010 03:26
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aventari posted:I want an LSD and this came up on craigslist
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Oct 25, 2010 04:52
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Vitamin J posted:The '99 has a 4.30:1 rear end while the '95 is a 4.10:1. Not sure what you need to make the speedo work but the '95 diff is noticeably longer. The 4.10 is better for cars with lots of power but if you're staying stock you might be happier with a 4.30. Can the R&P be swapped between the two?
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Oct 25, 2010 07:07
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I actually really don't like how high it revs on the freeway in 5th gear. It's like 4000 rpm at 75 and that's too high for me. If I could drop the rpm in 5th gear about 500 rpm I'd be happy and save 3 or 4 mpg. So what I really want is a tall 5th (like I wish the 6 speed was) but I don't really drive it enough to bother messing with gearing and ratios.
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Oct 26, 2010 02:19
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aventari posted:So what I really want is a tall 5th (like I wish the 6 speed was) but I don't really drive it enough to bother messing with gearing and ratios. No poo poo. I just kind of naturally assumed that's what how the 6-speed in some of the newer NBs would be geared. Then I drove one and was like "this is retarded". Its final drive is nearly identical to the five speed, so it still turns around 4000 RPM cruising on the freeway. Good job, Mazda. I don't need even more short gears spaced even closer than the 5-speed, I need a taller top gear for cruising!
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Oct 26, 2010 03:18
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A taller top gear isn't going to save you much, if any gas mileage. To keep the car moving at X miles per hour overcoming friction/wind resistance takes the same amount of energy regardless of what your gearing is.
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Oct 26, 2010 04:21
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4k is right where it goes into open loop, though, which is a relatively significant drop in mileage.
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Oct 26, 2010 04:37
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IIRC the FD in the 5 speed is .81 and in the 6 speed it's .79. The 4.1 rear end might make a little bit of difference. Though, when I get my Miata sorted I'm aiming for the 6-speed with the 4.3 rear-end.
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Oct 26, 2010 04:42
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destructo posted:A taller top gear isn't going to save you much, if any gas mileage. To keep the car moving at X miles per hour overcoming friction/wind resistance takes the same amount of energy regardless of what your gearing is. I would disagree based on my experience. I have an 87 16v Scirocco and it comes with close ratio box with a short 5th gear. When the clutch blew I swapped in a trans from my old GTI that I had put a tall 5th gear in. It went from (@75 mph): 3.67 r&p .91 5th = 3712 rpm to 3.89 r&p .75 5th = 3243 rpm (may have been a .71 fifth for 3070 rpm, but p. sure it was .75, it was a long time ago) drop of 469 rpm I track every tank of gas I get in a spreadsheet: before the trans 4683.7 miles 183.874 gallons of 91 for 25.47mpg after 3175 miles 103.128 gallons of 91 for 30.79 mpg seriously, no other changes when I did the transmission swap. Now I think I went on more road trips in the second group, so there's more highway miles, so that probably skews it, but quite a few of those road trips are towing motorcycles. The car is very similar to a Miata too. Around 2200lbs curb weight 1.8 16v with 123 hp, similar rpms on the highway. aventari fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Oct 26, 2010 |
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Oct 26, 2010 05:16
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99 Miata on the other hand 4825.2 miles 187.812 gallons 91 25.69 mpg  edit: removed track days
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Oct 26, 2010 05:23
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destructo posted:A taller top gear isn't going to save you much, if any gas mileage. To keep the car moving at X miles per hour overcoming friction/wind resistance takes the same amount of energy regardless of what your gearing is. You also have pumping loss and internal friction. High RPM isn't great for gas mileage.
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Oct 26, 2010 05:25
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destructo posted:A taller top gear isn't going to save you much, if any gas mileage. To keep the car moving at X miles per hour overcoming friction/wind resistance takes the same amount of energy regardless of what your gearing is. Sure, if you account solely for friction and wind resistance, but those are not the only factors. Internal combustion engines vary their thermal efficiency dynamically across their RPM range, and every engine has a "most efficient" RPM that is generally a lot lower than 4000 RPM. The fuel efficiency difference between buzzing along (at the same speed) at 2500 RPM vs 3800 RPM vs 6200 RPM is going to be drastically different. And as was already mentioned, the BP lump in Miatas goes into open loop right around 4k RPM which makes it run pretty drat rich and significantly lowers the fuel efficiency (but also generates a lot more power). Guinness fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Oct 26, 2010 |
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Oct 26, 2010 05:38
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Muffinpox posted:You also have pumping loss and internal friction. High RPM isn't great for gas mileage.  .
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Oct 26, 2010 11:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:Can the R&P be swapped between the two? Phone posted:Though, when I get my Miata sorted I'm aiming for the 6-speed with the 4.3 rear-end. What you want is the 6-speed with a custom 3.6 rear-end and a turbo.
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Oct 26, 2010 15:39
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